(DK) AIM-9´s Vertical 128 site octagon coli style.
- Thread starter Airnut
- Start date
D
DHF
Hey Bro....Don`t think I`ve not been payin attention to the thread , but my proxy server and overall paranoia prevents me from clickin on an outside video sourced from a weed site.....anyways....
Glad shit`s goin well for yas and keep up the good work....pics above look killer.....must`ve missed em......
Peace....DHF....
....
Glad shit`s goin well for yas and keep up the good work....pics above look killer.....must`ve missed em......
Peace....DHF....
....
. I'm sure there's a lot of folks that like the video though 
Hey mister D..
My EC ran at max 1.38 above 0.55 PHadjustet tapwater. I run GHE soft with only bioroots for cuts.
Clawing i think is most likely due to heat, i got a newly (but smaller) exfan and it aint doin its job good enough. Bottom plants have no claws at all but the higher i get inside the octagon the more clawings they get...
One question though mister D...
lockout burns - can you please explain? - i really like if you can, i run this strain for 3+ years now, i might going blind as it is almost like usual to me now...
My EC ran at max 1.38 above 0.55 PHadjustet tapwater. I run GHE soft with only bioroots for cuts.
Clawing i think is most likely due to heat, i got a newly (but smaller) exfan and it aint doin its job good enough. Bottom plants have no claws at all but the higher i get inside the octagon the more clawings they get...
One question though mister D...
lockout burns - can you please explain? - i really like if you can, i run this strain for 3+ years now, i might going blind as it is almost like usual to me now...
Lockout shows up as deficiencies in your plants due to too much of one element present causing uptake issues with one or more other elements. Your EC is slightly low for RDWC, but I don't think that's your issue. What exactly were you feeding these plants throughout their lives? At what PH? Seems something is off with either your ratios, or ph stability.
I have a auto PH system, DIY. Using house of garden PH bloom.
I have run this strain trough 3+ years at varoius EC, using 3 parts ive tried varied within those alone.
On this particular strain i get these dots, then spots, then the whole leaf is yellowing up with a britle surface and is dropped at some point.
I started out using hard water nutes, my PH dropped like crazy and we talk about a completly fresh water could drop as much as down to PH 4.5 within 24 hours of the new water, with the change to softwater nutes i found the only difference was about 6% more calcium in the bottle, but upon change of that bottle my PH is now more steady through the grow and the spots only first showes up around week 3-4, as before they come already at week 2-3. both in flower.
Ive run many other strains, and many of them did not show this malnutrition signs.
C99 oldsmokers cut, Critical kush 2 phenos, black domina, skunk 1, northern lights and some more.. Big difference but only on the pretty big yielder black domina, i did se some spots here and there oon the leafs.
I belive its a sort of calcium def.. dispite 6% more from the soft nutes.... Just got my hands on a bottle of mono calcium as my tapwater got plenty of magnesium.
I think its my tapwater making these issues.
Ive tried higher dose, lower dose as in less is more and ive found the 1.4 EC is what these ladies like the most, if i ad more N as found in either mikro og grow they get even more dark, and can run on plain water for 3 weeks without lossing the green color, so there are still dialage to figure a good watermix of nutes for keep them healthy to nug up..
Ive tried pure RO water from rosetup, tried rainwater, tried mixing them..
As for now i am trying to add more calcium, just a single % to se if that do some, then next round i one more % and at some point i must write something else in my logs, by then i can see the effect of the mononute and if that helps at all.
But i still like to hear anybodys opinion on what it might be...
Here some pics...
New clones getting ready for a life without the dome.. 5 died this roun...
The roots.
I have run this strain trough 3+ years at varoius EC, using 3 parts ive tried varied within those alone.
On this particular strain i get these dots, then spots, then the whole leaf is yellowing up with a britle surface and is dropped at some point.
I started out using hard water nutes, my PH dropped like crazy and we talk about a completly fresh water could drop as much as down to PH 4.5 within 24 hours of the new water, with the change to softwater nutes i found the only difference was about 6% more calcium in the bottle, but upon change of that bottle my PH is now more steady through the grow and the spots only first showes up around week 3-4, as before they come already at week 2-3. both in flower.
Ive run many other strains, and many of them did not show this malnutrition signs.
C99 oldsmokers cut, Critical kush 2 phenos, black domina, skunk 1, northern lights and some more.. Big difference but only on the pretty big yielder black domina, i did se some spots here and there oon the leafs.
I belive its a sort of calcium def.. dispite 6% more from the soft nutes.... Just got my hands on a bottle of mono calcium as my tapwater got plenty of magnesium.
I think its my tapwater making these issues.
Ive tried higher dose, lower dose as in less is more and ive found the 1.4 EC is what these ladies like the most, if i ad more N as found in either mikro og grow they get even more dark, and can run on plain water for 3 weeks without lossing the green color, so there are still dialage to figure a good watermix of nutes for keep them healthy to nug up..
Ive tried pure RO water from rosetup, tried rainwater, tried mixing them..
As for now i am trying to add more calcium, just a single % to se if that do some, then next round i one more % and at some point i must write something else in my logs, by then i can see the effect of the mononute and if that helps at all.
But i still like to hear anybodys opinion on what it might be...
Here some pics...
New clones getting ready for a life without the dome.. 5 died this roun...
The roots.
Hard to say for certain, but from what I can see it looks like you have signs of cal (rust colored spots), mag (yellowing between veins), and possibly potassium def (browning leaves). I'll ask again, what are you feeding these plants? I'm talking specific brand, bottle/s used (grow micro bloom, part A and/or B, etc), and the amounts of each given throughout the plants lives. Also do you know how much "alot" of mag in your tap water is? Do you double check your ph, or just assume the doser is working properly? I need some more specifics to nail this down.
Also what does your "flush" consist of? It's working clearly, but I'm curious what you're doing.
Also what does your "flush" consist of? It's working clearly, but I'm curious what you're doing.
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theres a misconception amongst some growers that if any part of a cannabisplant is shaded it will not perform optimal
also, removing leaf is generally a bad idea.
i will get into both subjects indicidually
first = shade
seas of green have buds growing below the ideal light zone.
and shaded leaf has a function
based upon what leaf is shaded the plant can decide to make unshaded shoots grow relatively faster
the plant however needs its leaf.
if a plant with all its leaf intact as 100% coverage for its space, be aware it uses constant reparranging of leaf to make the most of what ot can get.
removing a leaf makes the whole equasion of what leaf attributes what proportion of energy unfit, and the plant needs to recuperate and recalculate.
wich brings me to the second issue : removing leaf
in the first weeks of flower it can be efficient to remove fan leaf that covers a young shoot trying to reach for a lightsource.
this young shoot itself could have grown into a full cola if unshaded.
this is why sometimes removing leaf is beneficial.
removing leaf works generally best indoors, and in a relatively overcrowded growroom.
this growroom, in this thread isnt overcrowded.
yield could be double if you let the plants shade each other slightly.
be aware that hps light penetrates 40cm deep into crowded canope.
so slightly overlapping plants, in such a set up will definitely bring unforseen surprises , with big beautiful buds growing in places you'd never imagine
just veg a little longer, and experiment with allowing more leaf on the plants.
Older leaf is more efficient in catching light, so removing a big beautiful fan leaf in order for young leaf to mature quicker is inefficient, unless the area is overcrowded, wich again ; yours isnt
i am not trying to sound like knowitall, the above is as constructive and positiveas it gets
also, removing leaf is generally a bad idea.
i will get into both subjects indicidually
first = shade
seas of green have buds growing below the ideal light zone.
and shaded leaf has a function
based upon what leaf is shaded the plant can decide to make unshaded shoots grow relatively faster
the plant however needs its leaf.
if a plant with all its leaf intact as 100% coverage for its space, be aware it uses constant reparranging of leaf to make the most of what ot can get.
removing a leaf makes the whole equasion of what leaf attributes what proportion of energy unfit, and the plant needs to recuperate and recalculate.
wich brings me to the second issue : removing leaf
in the first weeks of flower it can be efficient to remove fan leaf that covers a young shoot trying to reach for a lightsource.
this young shoot itself could have grown into a full cola if unshaded.
this is why sometimes removing leaf is beneficial.
removing leaf works generally best indoors, and in a relatively overcrowded growroom.
this growroom, in this thread isnt overcrowded.
yield could be double if you let the plants shade each other slightly.
be aware that hps light penetrates 40cm deep into crowded canope.
so slightly overlapping plants, in such a set up will definitely bring unforseen surprises , with big beautiful buds growing in places you'd never imagine
just veg a little longer, and experiment with allowing more leaf on the plants.
Older leaf is more efficient in catching light, so removing a big beautiful fan leaf in order for young leaf to mature quicker is inefficient, unless the area is overcrowded, wich again ; yours isnt
i am not trying to sound like knowitall, the above is as constructive and positiveas it gets
by the way : old discolored leaf contains nutrients untill it drops off the plant.
unless your ventilation is comprimsed ; allow them on
pruing is so strain dependent, including removing leaf , but generally , unless you're talking lollypopping , removing much foliage affects yield negatively.
unless your ventilation is comprimsed ; allow them on
pruing is so strain dependent, including removing leaf , but generally , unless you're talking lollypopping , removing much foliage affects yield negatively.
Dude you really need to do some homework, most of what you just said is incorrect.
No offense meant here. You're on mostly the right track, but you have a lot to learn before you start giving advice
No offense meant here. You're on mostly the right track, but you have a lot to learn before you start giving advice
D
DHF
Well manic....For you to come here and say you`re no know-it-all and your criticism is as constructive as you know how to be , I`ve gotta step up and say that everything you`ve posted in this thread is as backwards and speculative as I`ve ever seen a post , and flatly I`ve gotta call bullshit pretty much on EVERYTHING I`ve read from you.....but.....
No offense intended , it`s just that this site is filled with misinformation , and you`re contributing nicely to add to it....First off , the reason I quoted this post from back in DEC , is cuz I missed it , or .....
I would have gladly stepped in to correct you about any "dark period" producing "shitloads of resin" since the function of the plant as a defense mechanism is to pump resin during lights on ONLY and why ?.....
Resin is produced to create a protective covering over the calyxes and adjoining foliage to protect the seeds to insure proliferation of the species in the wild since the dawn of time , and the ONLY thing happening during "lights off" is flowering and swellage....now...moving forward....
All your talk about leaving leaves or taking leaves DURING stretch/first few weeks of flower will do NOTHING but stunt and shock the plants , since I witnessed it first hand up close and personal some yrs back when I got talked into stripping leaves @ day 21 and again @ day 45 by another so-called grow guru.....then....
There`s this "not being a know-it-all" telling airnut to pack his room tighter with more plants and not worry about lower one`s growing up into upper one`s since they`re so close to the light source no "shading" will occur , and gotta call yas out on that as well; cuz it`s complete and utter horsefuck.....and lastly , although I could go on.....
Airnut`s a very knowledgeable and experienced grower with MANY runs under his belt with this setup and others , and we appreciate what time he has to come back and update his growlog here even though he`s not around much , so.......
Please refrain from tryin ta shove BULLSHIT down someone`s throat that most likely has been growin dope longer than you`ve been around , or your posts wouldn`t reflect so adversely on your actual knowledge and experience from what I`ve noticed in the few posts you`ve made.....again.....
No offense , but please do more homework before coming to probably the most knowledgeable and experienced sub-forum that I know of online....period......now....
Airnut.....as Mr D said above.....All X-factors "usually" fall back into the "tapwater" category since there`s no wayta know what minerals and such other shit`s in the makeup , but from what I saw in the last pics ......
Plant senescence with all the "fall colors" comin out in leftover fans durin late flower seems like you`re doin a WHOLE lot right , and with just some finicky strain tweaking and dialing needed to make said strain/hybrid be all she can be.....anyways.....
Keep up the killer work and......
Peace...DHF.....
......such heavy undertone, man
sometimes a sea of green is jampacked below canopylevel.
and buds grow there too
resin production has a logical explaination , but resin does pack on when ther light stays off , maye because plants arent in stasis when lights are off..
english is not my first language , i find it hard to describe processes in english
it could be that I would have made more sense in my native language
I find it tempting to return your tone of voice DHF, but I'm really not here for bad vibes and all.
all im trying to say is that his grow seems inefficient, and allowing plants to be a tad bit bigger wouldnt affect yield in a negative way
and i so wish you all a positive day, including you DHF
sometimes a sea of green is jampacked below canopylevel.
and buds grow there too
resin production has a logical explaination , but resin does pack on when ther light stays off , maye because plants arent in stasis when lights are off..
english is not my first language , i find it hard to describe processes in english
it could be that I would have made more sense in my native language
I find it tempting to return your tone of voice DHF, but I'm really not here for bad vibes and all.
all im trying to say is that his grow seems inefficient, and allowing plants to be a tad bit bigger wouldnt affect yield in a negative way
and i so wish you all a positive day, including you DHF
D
DHF
Meant no bad vibes Bro , but everything you`ve posted has not a word of proven technique or foundation for it to stand on.....
My tone may appear gruff , and once again I apologize for sounding so , and I do understand about the difference in language versus the written word , so please take my apology as sincere......
Earlier in the thread if you`d read it from the beginning , increasing plant numbers for increased yield has already been discussed , and Airnut made clear his situation and reasons therein , so....
My response to you was based on your evidently not reading said earlier posts , but what you have posted is purely conjecture and opinion rather than solid time tested technique and practical application therein....
Again...no offense intended , but I have a hard time reading "mis-information" on any and all forums without stepping in and trying to correct them since I`ve been around as long as I have , and....
Having witnessed first hand "most" mistakes and learning what not to do over the yrs , makes me appear to seem "bossy and a know-it-all" , but I assure you I`m only trying to help folks NOT make the COSTLY mistakes I made over the yrs since our lil hobby is indeed an expensive one....and lastly.....
Please try to be certain beyond a shadow of a doubt about advice given on weedsites , cuz many many MANY new folks that NEVER post read things and take them to heart as factual....
Peace...DHF....
Waow... hmmm
In short.. i dont hope anybody mind i do it my way? I take what i can use, and what i can see benfits me and my grow, and just skip the rest?
Regard the spot issue, i got a plan for it, if it dont work ill ask for help, trust me, this site is proberbly the only site i havent asked for asweres into the spotissue and the very reason imho can actully be found in my thread now.. lol... But hey... Sorry to act rude but I kind of dont want opinions on the fertz/dot/spots issues that might can cause me to deviate from my plan trying to fix the very same, Ive had the strain for 3+ years on the same nutes, there is one single reason i only startet this thread at the point in time i did. By then i feelt preety certain the grows wouldnt look like complete shaite...
But it is a calcium issue, i know it, im gonna try the next round and gently add som monocalcium into the mix, it should be visable in the plant is looking healthy a bit longer before any issues sets in.... or thats what i hope for atm..
Here som pics, i know thats what people are here for among other things...
Dried.. them 47 dicks i chopped went into 5,7 gram in average setting a total of 271,9 grams.
-IF... the setup was filled it would have given 734 dry grams in total..
The PH and EC scheme..
My auto PH bottle went dry 2 times, Ive found a bigger bottle for the job..
The drop in the EC is a experiment, a plainwater run for one day and 3 days of getting nutes changed from veg to flower. The plants seemed to like it more than just a rapid day to day change that mostly chock the leafs inot clawing big time, didnt happen this run..
-
And the new batch, 69 survivers this time. I need 2 more cloners and double my mom setup, give or take. Better to have too many than this constant lack of clones..
Its +5 plants from being 50% filled..
In short.. i dont hope anybody mind i do it my way? I take what i can use, and what i can see benfits me and my grow, and just skip the rest?
Regard the spot issue, i got a plan for it, if it dont work ill ask for help, trust me, this site is proberbly the only site i havent asked for asweres into the spotissue and the very reason imho can actully be found in my thread now.. lol... But hey... Sorry to act rude but I kind of dont want opinions on the fertz/dot/spots issues that might can cause me to deviate from my plan trying to fix the very same, Ive had the strain for 3+ years on the same nutes, there is one single reason i only startet this thread at the point in time i did. By then i feelt preety certain the grows wouldnt look like complete shaite...
But it is a calcium issue, i know it, im gonna try the next round and gently add som monocalcium into the mix, it should be visable in the plant is looking healthy a bit longer before any issues sets in.... or thats what i hope for atm..
Here som pics, i know thats what people are here for among other things...
Dried.. them 47 dicks i chopped went into 5,7 gram in average setting a total of 271,9 grams.
-IF... the setup was filled it would have given 734 dry grams in total..
The PH and EC scheme..
My auto PH bottle went dry 2 times, Ive found a bigger bottle for the job..
The drop in the EC is a experiment, a plainwater run for one day and 3 days of getting nutes changed from veg to flower. The plants seemed to like it more than just a rapid day to day change that mostly chock the leafs inot clawing big time, didnt happen this run..
-
And the new batch, 69 survivers this time. I need 2 more cloners and double my mom setup, give or take. Better to have too many than this constant lack of clones..
Its +5 plants from being 50% filled..
Thanks for looking by zamzia
less plants ++veg = i cant harvest 6 time pr year - it raises the energybill for running vegmode - it produces a lot of leafs n´ not buds - plants gets a bit to high blocking light for the row above - a lot of sideway branching given less space for more cuts - dont allow me to learnhow to run the plants fertzwise once the setup is 100% filled with cuts from the start - uses more costly nutes..... and i can go on into the very small details and etc on why also.
Hope you get the picture.
My goal is to make flowers direct from on cuts and fill the room with as many cuts as possible, i made the setup for the strain, when they all sits on the distance i used 3 different grows to figure out would be, i ended up 60cm flat from center of bulb to the base at the stems. Minus the bulb the distance is down to 57cm and when the plants grow 7-10 cm towards it they are down at around 45ish cm from the bulb, at this distance i found not only did i become able to fit 128 plants around 1 bulb, but also only using 1 small waterpump to feed them all and still be able to nug out minimum 5 dry gram pr plant, just by placing a rootet cuts under the flowerlight - you do the math on why i dont veg but battles on to get enough cuts to fill the damn monster ive build.
And... Thanks for looking by.
hey airnut,very nice looking system, why dont you veg them a little longer so they are filling out the space provided, less plants ++ veg=no prob
greez mo
less plants ++veg = i cant harvest 6 time pr year - it raises the energybill for running vegmode - it produces a lot of leafs n´ not buds - plants gets a bit to high blocking light for the row above - a lot of sideway branching given less space for more cuts - dont allow me to learnhow to run the plants fertzwise once the setup is 100% filled with cuts from the start - uses more costly nutes..... and i can go on into the very small details and etc on why also.
Hope you get the picture.
My goal is to make flowers direct from on cuts and fill the room with as many cuts as possible, i made the setup for the strain, when they all sits on the distance i used 3 different grows to figure out would be, i ended up 60cm flat from center of bulb to the base at the stems. Minus the bulb the distance is down to 57cm and when the plants grow 7-10 cm towards it they are down at around 45ish cm from the bulb, at this distance i found not only did i become able to fit 128 plants around 1 bulb, but also only using 1 small waterpump to feed them all and still be able to nug out minimum 5 dry gram pr plant, just by placing a rootet cuts under the flowerlight - you do the math on why i dont veg but battles on to get enough cuts to fill the damn monster ive build.
And... Thanks for looking by.
