Designing vert for the first time

[touchofgrey]

I have the CAP unit but never used it so I took it out and set it up in the smoking room with a 6" hurricane fan and a carbon filter to play around. You're right, there is a switch to have an min idle mode. Seems like it works OK. The fan doesn't hum on reduced speeds but when sitting on a table that resonates the sound a bit it sorta sounds like the power is pulsed to reduce the speed.

5K is going to be a challenge to cool for sure. I'll be watching to see what you come up with for fans.

But in any case I hear you about being lazy, I just want to have the setup run like a machine on autopilot. That's one reason I love Blumats and coco in Airpots. Which reminds me I recall you saying 1 regular carrot in a 5 gal was recommended at Sustainable Village. Seems pushing it to me. I've never run bigger than 3 gallon and I know 1 will cover that fine but I recall the Blumat site saying that was about the max. With just 4 pots I'd just double up to be sure.

And a happy new year to you too!

 

[otis33]

I can't stress enough that the elevated res being fed by the bulk res is THE BEST way to set up you blumats. when you have fluctuations in water level you have fluctuations in down pressure which causes fluctuations in the sensors which causes run aways and dry outs. with the pump constantly feeding the upper res to the exact same level at all times, the sensors perform consistently. the circulation waterfall action also keeps nutes in solution and oxygen levels higher. mr ds flexzilla house idea is awesome because you can use the ts and other connections that come with the blumats. I ended up using Kent's 3/32 ts and 1/2 black poly tube from the hydro store which allowed me to also use 1/2" bulkhead from the hydro store to connect the pump to the upper res and drain the upper res back to the lower. in any case, you will find the hose included in the is a pain in the ass to work with and its best to just get rid of it. if you need help setting up you blumat res I'm always lurking even though I don't post much. I want to see you kill it with an x pattern blumat grow, so get to work and good luck !

 

[Mister_D]

Alright MrD, I am sold. 2 x Maxis is what I'm going to rock. Thanks for talking me out of the single. I sure as hell don't want the ladies lopsided, uneven watered, tipping over or any of that other bullshit that comes from not adequately providing the medium w/ enough drench. The added insurance is quality advice and I hope anyone reading this, thinking of doing a similar setup will heed said advice as to not skimp on design in order to save a few dollars. I'm confident my girls will thank me for not skimping out on them too XD

They will indeed thank you

Now, this is a section of the blumat design that is still under construction. Another method I'm thinking about is actually just going w/ the same 27 gal res (maybe a little smaller) elevated but equipped w/ one of those submersible wave pumps. The benefits, IMO, would be easier maintenance. I might have a little backwork, but I think taking a res out of the equation saves the headache of the DIY w/ all the extra hoses (probably the biggest issue that is still racking my brain) and multi tank/drain connectors.

Going to break up your writing so it makes more sense. Keep the two res design. You'll want the elevated res to stay full 24/7. Yes some people get away with allowing it to flucuate, but believe me blumats are much more reliable with constant down pressure.

If what I've read so far holds true, that wave pump will provide enough circulation to keep the juice well mixed but I'm not sure if I'll lose the added benefits you get from waterfalling (topoff drain back into main res). But the thing I like the most is that I feel I will be able to get every last drop of juice where the double res combo will at some point have juice that I will have to manually drain out as I've had many a sub pump that just could not get that last inch from the bottom. I hate wasting juice, lol.

You'll get plenty of air from the actual dripping action, but you'll still want a pump of sorts to keep your nutes mixed. Can't see any reason you'd be wasting juice using two res's?

I was also going to pick up the pressure reducer if going this route because I definitely hear ya on keeping the pressure to the sensors consistent. Also thinking about going w/ the flexzilla hose for easier routing but as I've mentioned, I still can't get my 1/2s from my 1/4s. Throw in those 3/32 Ts and I just can't keep up anymore. I want to get the regular kit, but I see way too many stories where people feel they need to upgrade to a bigger hose, like one I suggested, because of clogs and air bubbles. So, while I still hold KISS in high regards, I think optimal here is the ticket. I don't want to have all that extra hosing, only to find out down the road that I should have just gotten bigger hoses.

You don't need the pressure reducer unless you are tapping directly into your houses water lines. Constant pressure to the blumats comes from a constant "head" level in the elevated res. Definitely recommend using flexzilla or similar hose instead of the blumat manifold line (just more flexible and easier to route). 1/2" is fine for your application (can use regular 1/2" bulkhead fittings etc to make connections to your res). I'd also recommend ordering 3/32" straight barbs (1 for each blumat) instead of the 3/32" tees. If a tee clogs, two plants are without water. With the barbs it's just one plant down.

I guess I'm going w/ the hog fence. Find some that are about 6 foot in height, bend them around the ladies and be done w/ it.

Thanks again for all the top shelf advice MrD,

Happy to help .

 

[DHF]

Got many Growbro`s at private places that`ve been killin it with maxi`s and big plants for a while in segregated and monocropped flip rooms with 4 plant 5 light setups .....

The #1 Cardinal rule with coco is keepin the medium "moist" , and I see no reason why 1 maxi with the extension cone can`t do that in a 5 gal container if yas go to each location daily or live onsite....but....

I totally understand Dbro`s input for 2 in each container if 1 or the other clog for insurance purposes , but Dripclean @ 1 ml per gal prevents it from ever happenin , and however many cones it takes ta dial for perfect "constant" moistness in each container is less things ta worry about when building a loopfield manifold for 4 big plants and 5000 watts....that said.....

Plant saucers under each container to monitor how well the cones are dialed and "keepin" said medium moist are of EXTREME importance , so don`t skimp on the basics , and also ......

The flexzilla hose works well , and that`s why Dbro`s hollerin bout double maxi`s cuz once big bitches start drinkin and swellin in a dialed setup , juice useage doubles if not more so.....bottom line.....

Bulk rez on the floor with a smaller pump and proper "head pressure" that`ll push juice 24/7 up to the elevated rez with an overflow hole at flood level that maintains a "waterfall" effect back down to bulk rez where shit stays stirred up and circulating FTW....now....

For added insurance , on the far side of the loopfield manifold , put a "bleeder" valve to let juice flow once everything`s online and flowin to get rid of ALL air bubbles , and always there to check and re-check with big containers and plants....

My old head Hippies on the left coast I`ve converted over the yrs fucked with me HARD bout blumats , but now most of em stay on mini-vacations once their shit got dialed and on auto-pilot......I`m just sayin.....

This is for all the young at heart that want fully dialed and automated feed setups where all yas gotta do is plant em and pull em.......

PSYCH......Runs under yer belt helps , and I got good enoughta visit once a week without fuckups after many yrs , but rest assured...

Fail ta plan , and bet on planning to fail....Automated feed and dialed equipment useage and environment mean EVERYTHING for consistent returns , but ....

I`ve NEVER met a stoner that made it croppin...no offense...Lazy don`t play into our lil hobby guys....sure...you`ll get lucky , but fuckups are around every corner if yas ain`t payin attention , and most of all knowin whatchas`re lookin for to MAKE sure shit`s dialed and hoonin means everything..... trust me....

I know guys that their whole commercial setup is dialed with Juice and PH dosers plus all the computerized monitoring with 1000`s of plants , and they pull 2 lbs per horizontal light and budget their business accordingly , and hey....it`s a business model not to be fucked with......and....

That`s the TOP of the commercial standard....Big plants in smaller rooms with 3 lights hittin each at all times can`t help but blow the return per light outta the water once environment and strains are dialed....

I wish HL45 would show yas a couple pics of what his 4 plant 5 light setups did before he had security issues.....He`s WELL on the way to 12 lb rooms/3lber`s with the hybrids he`s runnin and searchin for....anyways....

Drove down to the beach yesterday after Xmas and New Yrs with my son , so I`m in seafood grillage mode.....

Cajun grilled/smoked oysters rockefeller with spinach and minced garlic with hot sauce and smothered with smoked pepper jack cheese for appetizers , with blackened redfish and speckled trout in the iron skillet , and bacon wrapped U-10 shrimps wrapped in bacon for the topper ......

Grilled zucchini , wedge taters , whole jalapeno`s and fried green maters all topped with lump crab meat and remoulade sauce....

Get ta work Cokezz.....Lotta help here ta make yas happy......I`m outie.....Gone ta smothercate in umptious , delectable free shit out the ocean and intracoastal waterway.......Ya ll come.....

Peace....Freds...........

 

[Mister_D]

To be fair, coming from "recirculating death without a cause" taught me to always have redundancies in place. Suppose that follows through in the advice I tend to give .

 

[DHF]

To be fair, coming from "recirculating death without a cause" taught me to always have redundancies in place. Suppose that follows through in the advice I tend to give .

Overkill`s underrated , so 2 sensors per 5 gal bucket will STILL keep said medium "moist" as long as the cones are totally dialed "identically" after catch basins/plant saucers underneath each container indicate no runoff.....and then.....

As the plants eat and suck juice , BOTH cones disperse less juice to provide constant "moistness" , but constant monitoring will be needed till each container stabilizes and the cones are dialed.....IOW....

Once containers medium is dialed shit should explode accordingly regardless of how the end result was/is accomplished.....Many ways ta skin a mule....

Peace....DHF.........

 

[Cokezzz]

I have the CAP unit but never used it so I took it out and set it up in the smoking room with a 6" hurricane fan and a carbon filter to play around. You're right, there is a switch to have an min idle mode. Seems like it works OK. The fan doesn't hum on reduced speeds but when sitting on a table that resonates the sound a bit it sorta sounds like the power is pulsed to reduce the speed.

5K is going to be a challenge to cool for sure. I'll be watching to see what you come up with for fans.

But in any case I hear you about being lazy, I just want to have the setup run like a machine on autopilot. That's one reason I love Blumats and coco in Airpots. Which reminds me I recall you saying 1 regular carrot in a 5 gal was recommended at Sustainable Village. Seems pushing it to me. I've never run bigger than 3 gallon and I know 1 will cover that fine but I recall the Blumat site saying that was about the max. With just 4 pots I'd just double up to be sure.

And a happy new year to you too!

I don't have an actual dedicated smoking room, but I will be including some sort of ventilation from the living room (which is in between the 2 grow rooms) so I can start enjoying my ladies by just being near them! I've always just smoked inside the room, lol! I don't think they mind too much, but I don't want them to feel like this is what their lives entail...

5k does seem to be a lot to cool, but I think the fresh air from outside really helps. The hottest it's ever been was mid 90s here in the midst of summer, and that really ain't too bad. Humidity is also not an issue.

And yea, going off what MrD has recommended, I'm going to be going w/ the maxis, w/o question. Depending on if I buy the kit or just put them together separately is what's going to lead me to my final decision as far as one or two per plant. If I just go w/ the maxi kit, that will leave me w/ 6 sensors. So I was thinking try 2 w/ 2 plants and 1 in the other 2. But thanks for making me feel better about dropping the regular carrots altogether

 

[Cokezzz]

I can't stress enough that the elevated res being fed by the bulk res is THE BEST way to set up you blumats. when you have fluctuations in water level you have fluctuations in down pressure which causes fluctuations in the sensors which causes run aways and dry outs. with the pump constantly feeding the upper res to the exact same level at all times, the sensors perform consistently. the circulation waterfall action also keeps nutes in solution and oxygen levels higher. mr ds flexzilla house idea is awesome because you can use the ts and other connections that come with the blumats. I ended up using Kent's 3/32 ts and 1/2 black poly tube from the hydro store which allowed me to also use 1/2" bulkhead from the hydro store to connect the pump to the upper res and drain the upper res back to the lower. in any case, you will find the hose included in the is a pain in the ass to work with and its best to just get rid of it. if you need help setting up you blumat res I'm always lurking even though I don't post much. I want to see you kill it with an x pattern blumat grow, so get to work and good luck !

Loud and clear! Ditching the one res + pressure reducer simply because I don't want to get my ass kicked by you or MrD once I finally have them up and running, lol! I agree that the constant pressure will give me consistent feeding results, I just thought that the pressure reducer would also give me consistent down pressure regardless of how much was actually in the res with the wave pump keeping everything mixed and oxygenated.

I could actually use some help in picking out the parts if you have some spare time Originally, I was going to pick up the deck and planter kit, get a feel of what I'm working w/ then upgrade the hoses as needed. If I could get a solid list of what to buy though, I sure would appreciate it I know I need the carrots (obviously...), bulk res w/ a smaller elevated res and go w/ a flexzilla hose for the main distribution line. I hear people using the T's or single barbs and just puncture a hole through the main line, but wouldn't that possibly cause clogs? I had it setup in my head that I would take the main line and just straight up cut it. Rejoin them through the T and feed the smaller line through that. Seems like it would have less chance at clogging?

If anything, I'm more confused on which sizes to go w/ and what have you and really would like to make my own optimal kit. Thanks in advance man!

 

[Cokezzz]

Keep the two res design. You'll want the elevated res to stay full 24/7. Yes some people get away with allowing it to flucuate, but believe me blumats are much more reliable with constant down pressure.

Check. 86'ing my idea and going full forced w/ tried and true.

You'll get plenty of air from the actual dripping action, but you'll still want a pump of sorts to keep your nutes mixed. Can't see any reason you'd be wasting juice using two res's?

I hand water currently via a 32 gal rubbermaid. I fill er up w/ ro water and storage it w/ air stones and an aquarium tank heater. I don't like the buildup that forms on my air stones so I only ever make up my solution when it's feeding time. To feed, I drop in a sub pump connected to a 50ft garden hose but it always leaves a couple gallons that the pump can't catch. I always want that last drop so I transfer into a smaller bucket and just hand feed the rest of it. Hence, hating to waste juice. My gripe about the sub pump is that if there were ever a time where the bulk res were to only have a few gallons left is that it wouldn't be pumping anything into the head. As opposed to having one res where it will drain until it's completely out.

You don't need the pressure reducer unless you are tapping directly into your houses water lines. Constant pressure to the blumats comes from a constant "head" level in the elevated res. Definitely recommend using flexzilla or similar hose instead of the blumat manifold line (just more flexible and easier to route). 1/2" is fine for your application (can use regular 1/2" bulkhead fittings etc to make connections to your res). I'd also recommend ordering 3/32" straight barbs (1 for each blumat) instead of the 3/32" tees. If a tee clogs, two plants are without water. With the barbs it's just one plant down.

Yea, I had a feeling that the pressure reducer was really only intended for use w/ an actual plumbing line that would provide the pressure. I just thought that the pressure reducer could be adjusted so that the outgoing level was always consistent even if used in just a normal gravity type res.

I'm trying to get a shopping list going (thanks Otis! ) so I can avoid buying the kits and just have everything that I want. I don't mind the extras, but I don't want extra "crap" either, lol. Definitely going w/ a flexzilla hose as the main distributer line. I also want to place a T at the through hull and and have a clear hose strapped to the top of the head res, that way I can monitor the levels in it. 2 shut off valves for one leaving the head and another at the end of the main line to act as a bleeder valve. Everything else in between is where I get confused. Do the transfer barbs go straight through the line to form a cross? Going off what I see in most people's setups, they just puncture the main line and shove a single barb into it creating the channel. This seems like it could cause clogs and TBH, I was really wanting to just cut the main line in half, rejoin them w/ a T that would have a reduced size on the leg to fit the 3mm tubing that would go to the plant. To me, this seems like there would be less chance of clogging as there are no restrictions in the hose where the "plug and play" option seems to kind of clog up the hose itself.

 

[Cokezzz]

Got many Growbro`s at private places that`ve been killin it with maxi`s and big plants for a while in segregated and monocropped flip rooms with 4 plant 5 light setups .....

The #1 Cardinal rule with coco is keepin the medium "moist" , and I see no reason why 1 maxi with the extension cone can`t do that in a 5 gal container if yas go to each location daily or live onsite....but....

I totally understand Dbro`s input for 2 in each container if 1 or the other clog for insurance purposes , but Dripclean @ 1 ml per gal prevents it from ever happenin , and however many cones it takes ta dial for perfect "constant" moistness in each container is less things ta worry about when building a loopfield manifold for 4 big plants and 5000 watts....that said.....

Plant saucers under each container to monitor how well the cones are dialed and "keepin" said medium moist are of EXTREME importance , so don`t skimp on the basics , and also ......

The flexzilla hose works well , and that`s why Dbro`s hollerin bout double maxi`s cuz once big bitches start drinkin and swellin in a dialed setup , juice useage doubles if not more so.....bottom line.....

Bulk rez on the floor with a smaller pump and proper "head pressure" that`ll push juice 24/7 up to the elevated rez with an overflow hole at flood level that maintains a "waterfall" effect back down to bulk rez where shit stays stirred up and circulating FTW....now....

For added insurance , on the far side of the loopfield manifold , put a "bleeder" valve to let juice flow once everything`s online and flowin to get rid of ALL air bubbles , and always there to check and re-check with big containers and plants....

My old head Hippies on the left coast I`ve converted over the yrs fucked with me HARD bout blumats , but now most of em stay on mini-vacations once their shit got dialed and on auto-pilot......I`m just sayin.....

This is for all the young at heart that want fully dialed and automated feed setups where all yas gotta do is plant em and pull em.......

PSYCH......Runs under yer belt helps , and I got good enoughta visit once a week without fuckups after many yrs , but rest assured...

Fail ta plan , and bet on planning to fail....Automated feed and dialed equipment useage and environment mean EVERYTHING for consistent returns , but ....

I`ve NEVER met a stoner that made it croppin...no offense...Lazy don`t play into our lil hobby guys....sure...you`ll get lucky , but fuckups are around every corner if yas ain`t payin attention , and most of all knowin whatchas`re lookin for to MAKE sure shit`s dialed and hoonin means everything..... trust me....

I know guys that their whole commercial setup is dialed with Juice and PH dosers plus all the computerized monitoring with 1000`s of plants , and they pull 2 lbs per horizontal light and budget their business accordingly , and hey....it`s a business model not to be fucked with......and....

That`s the TOP of the commercial standard....Big plants in smaller rooms with 3 lights hittin each at all times can`t help but blow the return per light outta the water once environment and strains are dialed....

I wish HL45 would show yas a couple pics of what his 4 plant 5 light setups did before he had security issues.....He`s WELL on the way to 12 lb rooms/3lber`s with the hybrids he`s runnin and searchin for....anyways....

Drove down to the beach yesterday after Xmas and New Yrs with my son , so I`m in seafood grillage mode.....

Cajun grilled/smoked oysters rockefeller with spinach and minced garlic with hot sauce and smothered with smoked pepper jack cheese for appetizers , with blackened redfish and speckled trout in the iron skillet , and bacon wrapped U-10 shrimps wrapped in bacon for the topper ......

Grilled zucchini , wedge taters , whole jalapeno`s and fried green maters all topped with lump crab meat and remoulade sauce....

Get ta work Cokezz.....Lotta help here ta make yas happy......I`m outie.....Gone ta smothercate in umptious , delectable free shit out the ocean and intracoastal waterway.......Ya ll come.....

Peace....Freds...........

Thanks Freds! I completely agree that lazy don't play into this hobby and in fact witness it first hand from a few other growbros. I always say I'm lazy but truth be told, I feel like I'm one of the hardest working people I know. I have an eye for quality and efficiency but can never get the "system" down on my own, so I always need my hand held for the first few times XD Working 40+ hours per week I spend the rest w/ the ladies and I balancing act sleep/GF. When I first started last year, my intent was to produce lbs on top of lbs so I could have a blanket for me and my family. Well, after 4 harvests under the belt, I have seem to fall in love w/ this hobby and now I want to produce quality, I feel like the weight will follow. And that's why I'm here humbly asking for yalls advice! <3

I actually do live onsite, so what I'm thinking is maybe doing 2 trees w/ 2 maxis and the other 2 w/ just 1. That way, I can get a better feel for it and see which setup suits my actual needs.

I just got my first salt buildup while vegging my current crop and have since employed drip clean @1ml/gal. They're recovering quite well, but I think I stripped em of too much cal/mag during the flush. 3 days into flip and I am actually going to hit some with a foliar spray of cal/mag+ after this reply. Thanks for the recommendation and I have also included SM-90 and silicablast into my recipe.

I swear though, after your posts, I feel like I haven't eaten all day w/ cottonmouth to boot making it too damn hard to get ta work!

 

[Cokezzz]

Oh, new last question of the day! So, I measured the room today and it's actually 11.5. x 11.5 x 7ft. W/ that in mind, does anyone think I'd be better served w/ a different setup? I want to take advantage of the whole room and to get 50wpsf I'd be looking at 6.6k and some change worth of lighting. I'm not opposed to adding more lights, but I would like to keep plant count down to a minimum. I just can't seem to find any design/setups that would accommodate my situation.

Tomorrow's my day off and I will be picking up the reflectix for the room to have them lumens blasting all which ways. 2 of the walls though are part of the cement foundation. Would I be ok just putting them up w/ some 3m 90 strength adhesive spray?

Ok, it was actually 2 questions, lol. I blame DHF for making my stomach growl so damn loud I couldn't think straight! But as always all, thanks for the advice! Much appreciated!

 

[Mister_D]

Shopping list:

1. 2 - Reserviors (upper and lower) - if you don't have them already
2. 2 - 1/2" bulkhead fittings from the hydro store, or carlon water tight fitting from home depot. (connects feed line from lower res to upper res, and upper res to manifold)
3. 1-2 - Blumat Maxi's per plant
4. 1- 50' roll of flexzilla
5. 3/32" straight barbs from kent systems. One for each plant, plus a few extras for just in case.
6. 3/32" drill bit (for tapping straight barbs into the manifold line)
7. Roll of extra blumat feed hose (not absolutely necessary, but remember they only come with about 2' attached to the cone) Definitely makes design easier when you can add some length between cone and manifold line.

Lastly, yes adhesive spray is a great option to hang the reflectix.

 

[DabOnDabs]

Having the room a bit bigger isn't necessarily a bad thing. It's nice to have some room to walk around the perimeter and also, the larger volume helps dissipate the heat generated by the lights.

As far as exhaust, I assume you have found and read Ventilation 101. To cool a room with just airflow you are calculating cfm based on what you assume will be normal operating condition, lets say a 10 degree rise between intake air and desired room temp. Simple math, CFM = 3.16*Total Watts/Temp Diff. For 5000 watts that calculates to 1580 cfm. But that also says once the intake air rises above 68 your not going to be able to keep the room under 78. You can also see when the intake is at 50 degrees you want to reduce the airflow to keep the room above 70. I have a spreadsheet I use and for 5K it looks like this:
OA @65° CFM @ 10° DT = 1580 CFM
OA @55° CFM @ 20° DT = 790 CFM
OA @45° CFM @ 30° DT = 527 CFM
OA @35° CFM @ 40° DT = 395 CFM

Your room is 726 cu ft. The rule of thumb around here for exhaust is 2x volume so that is about 1550 cfm which matches the calculations pretty good for a 10 degree rise. Note these numbers are all net airflow after accounting for losses in ductwork and filters. Since you say you hit 90's sometimes you will need to have backup AC or backup exhaust.

I was looking for this calculation when designing my room and couldnt find it so pretty much just had to guess. <3 you sexy man

 

[Cokezzz]

Thanks for the list MrD! You don't think I should go out of my way to find 1/2" tees that would have a 3mm reducer on the leg? I still kind of feel like that might make em clog a bit since it will add resistance to the main line flowing, but I do understand that is how most set them up. Also, if going this route, i would be ok w/ just drilling another hole near the valve on the head res and just attaching the 3mm tubing to it? I'd like to find a clear one but I'm really only doing it so that there is no restriction on the flow of the juice going down.

I guess the parts were a lot simpler than I was dreading in my head, lol. I ordered the reflectix as neither lowe's or HD had the 100' on hand. That will come in next week and I'll try and sneak in some pics of the build.

Still curious though, finally decided on a Powerbox DPC-7500 so 6 lights will be my max. Any setups that might accommodate my area better?

 

[Mister_D]

Thanks for the list MrD! You don't think I should go out of my way to find 1/2" tees that would have a 3mm reducer on the leg? I still kind of feel like that might make em clog a bit since it will add resistance to the main line flowing, but I do understand that is how most set them up.

No need for any special tees'. The kent system straight barbs work just great, are cheap as shit, and no more clogging issues than a tee would have. Also you don't need to worry about flow issues/resistance, 1/2" line has way more water movement capability than you will ever use in this setup.

Also, if going this route, i would be ok w/ just drilling another hole near the valve on the head res and just attaching the 3mm tubing to it? I'd like to find a clear one but I'm really only doing it so that there is no restriction on the flow of the juice going down.

What are you trying to accomplish here? There should be an air release (another piece of flexzilla that is tapped into the manifold line with a 1/2" barbed tee, right after it leaves the upper res, then leads up above the water line), that allows any air bubbles to escape before they have a chance to enter the 3mm line (air bubbles will cause a runaway to happen if they get to the blumat itself). Check out the vert redemption thread in my sig, I explained in a good amount of detail how blumats are properly setup in there, with lots of pictures. Think that all started around page 10.

I guess the parts were a lot simpler than I was dreading in my head, lol. I ordered the reflectix as neither lowe's or HD had the 100' on hand. That will come in next week and I'll try and sneak in some pics of the build.

Still curious though, finally decided on a Powerbox DPC-7500 so 6 lights will be my max. Any setups that might accommodate my area better?

 

[Cokezzz]

No need for any special tees'. The kent system straight barbs work just great, are cheap as shit, and no more clogging issues than a tee would have. Also you don't need to worry about flow issues/resistance, 1/2" line has way more water movement capability than you will ever use in this setup.

Sold!

What are you trying to accomplish here? There should be an air release (another piece of flexzilla that is tapped into the manifold line with a 1/2" barbed tee, right after it leaves the upper res, then leads up above the water line), that allows any air bubbles to escape before they have a chance to enter the 3mm line (air bubbles will cause a runaway to happen if they get to the blumat itself). Check out the vert redemption thread in my sig, I explained in a good amount of detail how blumats are properly setup in there, with lots of pictures. Think that all started around page 10.

I was thinking maybe 1/2" would be a little big as an air release, lol. Complicating things I guess. As always, thanks and cheers D!

 

[Cokezzz]

As a small update, I've been slowly picking up the parts. So far, I've purchased the reflectix to cover the room, Powerbox DPC-7500 along w/ 5 bare bulb holders and the bulbs themselves. Going w/ 4x 1k Hortilux HPS(I've used Ushios since I've started, but the 1k's have been super cheap lately) and going to put a 1k Ushio Super MH bulb in the center.

Now, as for my current predicament...
This room is located in the basement and the floor as well as one of the walls is part of the foundation. It is a pretty old house and I believe this section used to be a garage. There was a layer of soil that was exposed so I just filled er in w/ concrete a few months back. On heavy rain days, I have a little puddle that will form on the floor. I tried to drylock it, but I still get a small pond. Originally, I was just going to ignore it and figured that I would mop/vacuum it up and that the fresh air exchange would take care of the potential mold or whatever air born nasties. After more and more research, it seems like this would be a bad idea. Any ideas on how to react to this? The only solutions I have come up w/ were a) do a whole concrete layer to the floor. b) more drylock. c) actually get in a professional to either seal the floor or maybe even as extensive as exterior work w/ draining away from the foundation. d) ignore and just mop/vacuum.

I believe c would probably be the best idea, but that would cost quite a bit I'd imagine and I'm pretty strapped for funding, atm. I'm not very handy so I can't see myself digging around my foundation and installing a french drain, sump pump or any other kind of method of getting the rain away. A and b are very doable but from what I gather, it's merely a bandaid and will simply come back and probably just bite me on the ass. D is clearly the easiest method, but I don't want to endanger my grow either.

If I should be asking this in another subforum, I apologize in advance. It's just that most here already have an idea of my situation so I was hoping for any input in hopes that maybe someone has gone through something similar or have a potential fix. Thanks guys!

 

[DHF]

Pourin concrete over it "might" work for awhile Bro , but guaranteed at some point in the game with heavy enough rains , the water will push up through any and all nooks and crannies it can due to I believe the scientific term`s "hydrostatic pressure" but don`t hold me to said term...

French drain "away" from the foundation and house is the most reliable fix but as yas said you`re not real handy , and digging out down to the footings is a job for Mexican day labor where I come from......

There is a company out of Va that imports a German product called "Aquafin" that`s used like dryloc , but it seeps into the pores of concrete blocks or concrete itself if not already sealed and still porous , that actually forms crystals and swells to form a watertite barrier , but shit`s expensive and shippin is as well....that said....

Don`t waste your cash on more Dryloc , I`ve never in my 30 plus yrs of bein a homebuilder EVER seen the shit work for waterproofing....Looks good on block walls all nice and white and DOES seep into the pores of the block , but if the basement leaks already , ain`t worth the powder to blow it up with....so....

Decisions , decisions.....Sorry I cant help more , but you already knew your best bet , just getting it done`s the X factor.....anyways....

Good luck...DHF........

 

[Ichabod Crane]

Before you get crazy with concrete check the slope around the out side of your foundation. It should slope away at 1/4 inch per foot minimum if not it is running the water toward the foundation.

If that is not the case then look for other options.

 

[DHF]

Good call Icky...Positive drain "away" from the house is rule # 1.....Surely it couldn`t be that easy , but hope so......

Peace....DHF........