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Terpenation at Terpene Station

Permacultuure

Member
Veteran
I am using a terp and when I run trim/flowers I don't go a set # of floods, I just keep doing floods until I don't see swirls in the sight glass anymore.

What size column are you running? On average how many floods does it take to run clear? I'm considering doing multiple floods and soaks on my larger columns as opposed to the single continuous floods I've been doing...
 

nakadashi

Member
1.5" still. I don't go till clear, the tane still has some yellow color but I know there is not much oil left to be extracted. I have done second runs to confirm and get less than 3% of some nasty sludge.

Usually takes me 2-3 floods on crummy trim. Some flower runs need up to 5 before I stop seeing the swirls. I did a few column of kief and it took almost an hour of flooding (lost count how many it was and at one point I just left it on "shower" mode)
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
G5 Rebuild step by step...

G5 Rebuild step by step...

For those of you doing a rebuild of the G5. I found a nice picture tutorial, after I rebuilt my own without instructions. This would have been most helpful had I found it sooner. Either way the rebuild is easy and doesn't take much effort to pull off, just helps to have a reference.


:)


FE
 

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FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
Nak,

what is the temp of your butane when you have this issue with the butane not becoming clear?

I had that issue when my butane wasn't cold enough.

I think the extra weight you gain is mostly stuff we dont want.
Like plant fats/lipids...

If your butane is cold enough it will go clear in 3-4 flood cycles every time IME.

That is using a 150g packing density with the standard column configuration.


Respect,

FE
 
A

AlterEgo860

its all strain dependent.. i mean shit.. the way i grow.. i let my plants goo wayyy longer then breeder flower times.. so by the time i start flushing.. swelling is done.. the terpenes are jamming.. and honestly. this is were experience comes into play.. because honestly. i have no complaints.. all my bud REEKS. all of it is sooo crystally . and not 1 person has said anything bad about it.. so ill do my own shite.. lol. the only thing i need to do . is redesign my rooms so that each flower room. has a cloning unit above it.. so that i can have 2 times the amount of flower rooms.. n 1 veg room.. and have my cloning areas at the ceiling.. were my lights never get that high usually anyways..

i run my nutes.. usually till the last 10 days.. and dude . the last 2 days. are in darkness.. and the last 8.. i flush every other day.. as much water as possible.. my bud burns white ash.. and when u use a grinder on my buds.. u end up with soo much keif in the bottom tray.. and u still can smoke that bud an get recked. so i say i think im doing something right.. i need to work on yield a lil. but i will do that wen im doin 1 or 2 strains a room. i like 8-10 strains at a time. its fun to have variety.
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
From packing soil and plants full of nutrients including trace elements, we get MORE plant fats. A lot more actually. How much more? Is the question. . . I forget sometimes that talking growing with gardeners from other ways and walks is sometimes more than challenging. Ill keep the grow talk to the organic soil forum to keep it simple. Its all good. As long as everyone is happy with their harvest thats what matters most, lol. To each their own..



Respectfully,

FE
 

nakadashi

Member
Nak,

what is the temp of your butane when you have this issue with the butane not becoming clear?

I had that issue when my butane wasn't cold enough.

I think the extra weight you gain is mostly stuff we dont want.
Like plant fats/lipids...

If your butane is cold enough it will go clear in 3-4 flood cycles every time IME.

That is using a 150g packing density with the standard column configuration.


Respect,

FE
Hmmmm OK I have not played with dry ice in a while but rather am just using regular ice baths. Will have to to play around with dry ice again...

Btw has anybody tried winterizing with second solvent after using dry ice temp butane? Just wondering how much wax we are leaving behind with dry ice temps and whether the lower solubility is leaving behind much oil.
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
you dont have to go dry ice to get it cold enough, just making sure its as cold as you can get it with regualr ice will do.

I have winterized oil that was from DI runs and it still pulls lipids. The amount is reduced by about 50-75% in some cases.

I still get waxes when doing 2x winterization... hard to get it all. Best method for getting it all at once is dry ice on the ethanol then filtering with buchner funnel and some #1 whatman filter papers w vacuum assist.. You dont need the DI just makes it faster. THe vacuum assist and filter paper make for a very efficient winterization. No waxes on x2...

cold column, cold tank, no heat at all just room temp water baths on the collection....
 

nakadashi

Member
I use 50lb of ice to chill my 50# tank and another 50# to chill the precooler. Usually after 5 hours there is not much ice left in the precooler bath but plenty left in the butane tank bath. This is very confusing to me how you are able to run till the butane is clear...

Guess I really have to get on the DI temps since reducing wax by 50-70% sounds very appealing! Are you able to estimate how much the oil yield is reduced by the decrease in solubility from colder butane?

Also when you do the 2x winterization are you performing the filtration once and re-freezing before second filtration?
 

nakadashi

Member
I noticed no difference between 91%iso/DI and salt water with ice. My unqualified 0.02.
Did you do a true comparison with every other variable controlled for except butane temperature?

I also did DI/denatured alcohol a few times and did not notice much difference which is why I went back to regular ice. But some people swear by the DI so I am thinking maybe I did something wrong.
 

SkyHighLer

Got me a stone bad Mana
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I haven't seen much posting of chillers, heat exchanger is another term used for them. Here's a cheap plate chiller, I don't know if it can handle the pressure, but if not there should be something similar that does.

http://youtu.be/_fhG9QtSSrk
 

JColtrane

Member
Hmmm thanks SkyHighLer :tiphat: I was thinking about getting some 1/4 ss tube from Paramount and build a wart chiller type of thing in one of those orange Igloo water cooler. The idea is that I'd fill the water cooler with D/I and have it inline between my tank of ntane and extractor. Maybe pull vac on it before d/i added tp prevent any moisture from collecting on the inside ... Thoughts?
 

SkyHighLer

Got me a stone bad Mana
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Hmmm thanks SkyHighLer :tiphat: I was thinking about getting some 1/4 ss tube from Paramount and build a wart chiller type of thing in one of those orange Igloo water cooler. The idea is that I'd fill the water cooler with D/I and have it inline between my tank of ntane and extractor. Maybe pull vac on it before d/i added tp prevent any moisture from collecting on the inside ... Thoughts?

Quarter inch stainless should bend easily enough, this guy has some good tips on forming tubing,

http://youtu.be/g6w4b0-5tvM
 

nakadashi

Member
Hmmm thanks SkyHighLer :tiphat: I was thinking about getting some 1/4 ss tube from Paramount and build a wart chiller type of thing in one of those orange Igloo water cooler. The idea is that I'd fill the water cooler with D/I and have it inline between my tank of ntane and extractor. Maybe pull vac on it before d/i added tp prevent any moisture from collecting on the inside ... Thoughts?
I just ordered a SS wort chiller last week for the exact purpose you stated. Will keep ya'll informed how that goes.
 
I don't believe paramount has annealed stainless tubing.

why not just freeze your recovery tank in dry ice? then you have one less connection point for leaks. then you could use your modified wort chiller in lieu of the mt-69, which is made with copper
 

nakadashi

Member
I don't believe paramount has annealed stainless tubing.

why not just freeze your recovery tank in dry ice? then you have one less connection point for leaks. then you could use your modified wort chiller in lieu of the mt-69, which is made with copper
I plan on doing that also but I figured for a little bit more of a deep freeze I should include the chiller. I think the tane in the recovery tank is getting a little warmer from the butane being pumped back into it so to give it that extra chill I want to cool it as much as possible right before injection.
 

nakadashi

Member
Someone suggested heated pipe wraps somewhere earlier in this thread. I am going to be playing with this minor upgrade today to see what happens.
AXFIjF1.jpg


I don't believe it will be too great because this particular one has a thermostat that kicks on under 38F, but still better than nothing...
 
Unless this is some kind of kick ass heat tape it won't do any good to speed up recovery time. I've tried several heat tapes and found that I still prefer to use my heat gun to defrost the spool during recovery.
 

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