Beginner help needed

[Med_Mann]

ok im currently starting a new grow and will be posting pictures as i go along, my problem is that im having some early issues with yellowing thats leads to browning and loss of leaf to my girls.

Im currently using promix with casting and guano added and the nut line i use is foxfarm with with calmag from botanicare and bud igniter from advanced as additives.

im growing LSD and death star og with alil pineapple express. any helpful tips techniques would be greatly appreciated in the biggest way and if anyone is familiar with the strain death star would love feedback on wat u did and your results im looking for it to turn out with the extreme citrus gassy stink its supposed to have and drying and curing techniques for the best results.


current lighting setups are 2 t5 1 400wat mh and a 1000watt mh in the veg room with 4 1000 watt hps and 2 400 hps with digital environment control from autopilot with co2 havent started the co2 would like comments about when to start using it also.

thank you guys much in advance and happy toking...

 

[Green_science]

Thats quiet a broad question which will probably lead to a vague answer.
Clones or from seed, Either need minimal light at the start of their life, keep "Young" seedlings/clones a couple feet away from the t5, to eliminate lighting being a problem, secondly if you have enriched soil then try feeding them some very weak vegetive nutrient say 25% bottle recommendation, are you giving them 6 hours of lights out per day, if not try it.

Do you have a fan directly on them, if so take it off of them, is it too hot in there? Is the humidity high enough?

Heres a little check list for you.

Make sure your'e lighting is not too intense.
No direct fans blowing on baby plants
Room humidity as high as possible not above 90%
Day temps 80c, night temps not below 55c
Do not over water, allow dirt to somewhat dry before watering.
Nutrient solution EC, no higher than 1.0 for young girls, take your enriched soil into consideration, if for example you use BB allmix, water alone is suffecient for a few weeks.

One last thing, your roots could be touching the floor through drainage holes in the pots and the floor may have some chemical residue on it.

Good luck

 

[Med_Mann]

sry for the long response i been trying to add pictures of my calamities but i cant seem to add them. First lemme start off by saying how much i really appreciate your time and comments. 90% humidity? ive been keeping it around 45-55% in the veg room and im gonna start using the autopilot to track the humidity in the flower room. the ec and ppm part of the game im learning but i dont know how to read my ppm meter i know i know how simple can u be but its alot to learn and im by myself.

for soil i use promix hp biofungal
and i use trays under the pots so they dont comt in contact with the floor

 

[Med_Mann]

Here are some problem pics

 

[Med_Mann]

These are from flower

 

[Green_science]

Cal/Mag deficiency
Nitrogen deficiency
Over watered

What I said was RH%<90,so RH as high as feasible but not above 90 (above 90 could start slowing down growth, causing slow rooting and other problems)

I am not familiar with ProMix, correct me if I am wrong but it is a soilless based medium, which means you need to knock you're ph down for starters.

After a quick read, it would also seem ProMix lacks any or has very little macro/micro nutrients/minerals, so which fert are you feeding them, and at which dosage?

If you continue to go this route you are going to have to take control of the nutrient solutions PH, AT LEAST, depending on what you are feeding them you may need to add cal/mag and then as I mentioned the look a little low on nitrogen, and lastly the APPEAR over watered.

My honest advice to you would be to start using "BioBizz all mix" for you're soil, you can put young plants straight into it and use nothing but tap water for a couple of weeks whilst they flourish, provided said tap water is not outside the PH range of 6.2-7.4, and/or above 0.6EC, either of which I highly doubt.

Nutrients, I am unsure if you are willing to use chemical fert, if you are then get yourself some "Canna Terra" this is a 1 part base, (no mixing anything)

you have 1 bottle for veg "Canna Terra Vega"
and 1 bottle for flower "Canna Terra Flores"

Using this nutrient along side "Bio Bizz All Mix" soil, and provided your tap water is in the range mentioned above, you need to add NOTHING else, except for a PK boost mid to late flower which is not even a "necessity".
All you need to do is mix up you're feed, check the EC and you're good to grow.
If you are unwilling to use chemical fert then the only nutrient I can recommend is BioBizz, I do not care for organics, but my friend uses their nutrients and his plants are great, the feeding is of coarse going to be more complicated than the 1 part Canna I suggested.

 

[MiMedGuy]

If you are new to growing use dynagro and promix. Veg gets 3ml/gal bloom gets 5ml/gal. This will give you a good growing baseline. Ph to 5.9-6.0. Cheapest, most complete way to start growing...especially indoors. Learn your environment and plants then start experimenting if you need to. Just my .02.

blessings,
MiMedGuy

 

[Med_Mann]

thanks for the input guys really thank you for your time.

@Green, so ive been having my veg room rh at 55% so you think i should increase, does that go for the flower room also? and yes promix is soilless base and is pretty much supposed to be a clean slate. i mix into a brick 2and half cups of worm casting and 1 1/2 cups of bat guano(hi-nitrogen)kind. i use foxfarm nutz and for firstweek outta the cloner i just give them ph 6.3-6.8 water only then 2nd week they get the foxfarm at 1/4 strength but the last 2 feedings i went about half strength. following their schedule. and i use botanical cal/mag because my nutz line doesn't have it and i add a lil silicate to the solutions. im currently trying to learn ec and how to use my ppm meter.

i have a RO water system i use for water

 

[Med_Mann]

will add new pics later

 

[Perpetual Nooch]

thanks for the input guys really thank you for your time.

@Green, so ive been having my veg room rh at 55% so you think i should increase, does that go for the flower room also? and yes promix is soilless base and is pretty much supposed to be a clean slate. i mix into a brick 2and half cups of worm casting and 1 1/2 cups of bat guano(hi-nitrogen)kind. i use foxfarm nutz and for firstweek outta the cloner i just give them ph 6.3-6.8 water only then 2nd week they get the foxfarm at 1/4 strength but the last 2 feedings i went about half strength. following their schedule. and i use botanical cal/mag because my nutz line doesn't have it and i add a lil silicate to the solutions. im currently trying to learn ec and how to use my ppm meter.

i have a RO water system i use for water

Sounds like you're adding too much nitrogen. You're taking promix and mixing in high nitrogen amendments then adding more with the Foxfarm nutrients. How can you measure how much nitrogen you are giving them?

 

[Crooked8]

They are low on nitrogen def not adding too much. Simply false. Classic nitro def and cal def. gscience had it nailed.

 

[Perpetual Nooch]

They are low on nitrogen def not adding too much. Simply false. Classic nitro def and cal def. gscience had it nailed.

How do you know he is low when he has no way to measure it? He's adding amendments plus chemical nutrients. He has no clue how much nitrogen is there and neither can you.

 

[Crooked8]

Because i know classic nitrogen def, it yellows from older growth up. Opposite of iron(fe) def where newer growth yellows. I also know what a hungry plant looks like. This plant needs to be fed at 6.0ph with slightly higher nutes and 5ml per gallon of cal mag. If the yellowing persists then up the base nutes. That brown spotting and yellowing simultaneously on older growth and larger fan leaves is always indicative of a nitro/cal def which come together often.

 

[Crooked8]

If you cant look at a plant and see what its lacking thats not my problem. It comes with experience and finding proper correction solutions.

 

[Perpetual Nooch]

If you say so. Everyone's an expert.

I say it's probably nitrogen lockout due to cal-mag deficiency. RO water is responsible for this.

But there is probably more than enough nitrogen in the medium and the nutrient regimen, judging by the info given by the OP.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyac1JNrMHc

 

[Med_Mann]

So to add on the problems from those first set started in veg. I was thinking too much nitrogen myself as i had some burning on the leaf veins but i cut way bk on the nutz strength, and i believe it helped alot on this next cycle. These pic are from them but my concerns are is too much green a problem because the strain in the cycle are really green.

 

[Med_Mann]

These are the new cycle pics.

 

[Crooked8]

I may stand corrected. Looks like your plants could have excess nitrogen at this point. Is that a lil downward clawing?

 

[Med_Mann]

yes that is alil at the top of the one, these are some new ones the talk about too much nitrogen made me put them up they are growing like crazy and at this point these are showing now signs of def.

 

[Green_science]

I may stand corrected. Looks like your plants could have excess nitrogen at this point. Is that a lil downward clawing?

No you do not stand corrected, the latter pics are from another grow.

The first pics was quiet obviously showing nitrogen and calcium deficiencies, I just did not bother trying to "guess" the cause of it, just because a plant is showing deficiencies it does not necessarily mean your'e feed is lacking in said element, IT CAN DO, but it could also mean a slew of other things are happening to create the problem. With the little info I had up until my post, any advice correcting "you're" setup would have been a complete guess, and futile. I was just diagnosing the problem, not the cause.

Humidity, 55% RH in veg is fine, but, you will likely notice an improvement if you can up it 10-15 points, for all intents and purposes around the 50% mark for flowering is great, although I know some people that flower at 80%+ RH and grow some of the biggest fastest growing trees I have seen, this is off topic so I won't delve in to it but co2 enriched rooms along with higher humidity's, causing prolonged opening of stomata, makes for sound science.

Something to remember here is that you're plants may have enough of everything they need in their diet but excessive amounts of a single element can make seem to appear their diet is lacking in something else, the grower then tends to add more of said element that the plant seems to be lacking in without correcting or even identifying the underlying problem and them before you know it, you're plants nutrition/micro biology is SCREWED.

If I honestly had to take a quick guess at you're original problem, I would say in order.

1. Over watering/feeding.
Believe it or not water stress is a perfect way to cause a calcium deficiency, another cause that goes hand in hand with this would be excessive phosphorus, phosphorus and calcium do not mix well and cause insoluble compounds, I am not saying the latter part applies to you but I imagine your soilless medium has no mycorrhizae, which means your phosphorus (which your'e bat guano may contain large amounts of) may be having a hard time being broken down and is causing you're (later added) calcium to become insoluble

It gets complex with positive IONS competing for space and NEC values (potential to hold "Exchangeable IONs") in the medium, but the short story is calcium being a positively charged ION is competing against other positively charged IONs, this is what I touched on earlier, i.e. . too much magnesium would make it appear as though you're plants do not have access to enough calcium by decreasing calcium uptake, this is not to be confused with a ph problem causing a lockout, we are talking availability not uptake.

This is also what I mean by when I mention over feeding in the subtitle.

2. PH
You may have had a PH problem or BOTH, PH problem and the problem I wrote about above, whether it was caused by an unbalanced diet or/and over watering.
PH for soilless mediums (pretty much all of them), as far as I am aware of, is much better down at the <6.5 range, most people feel hovering around 6.2, in coco for example, is much better than 6.5-6.8, myself included, from what you wrote sounds like you was letting you're PH wonder somewhat high, which would make some sense.

The pictures of you're latest run look great, they are definitely not the DARK GREEN, near blackish, typical of N toxicity but they are showing an abundance of nitrogen for sure, perhaps next time a little less of the bat guano, you could also try lowering you're PH, NOW, that could help balance things out a little, try hover around 6.2.