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~Cannafornia Style~◆Area51~Kiddie Pool PPK◆VERT~Evolution~

hotboxes

Member
looks good man. its been a while since I been around, but I will be getting something together here in the next cpl weeks keep up the great work bud
 

DamnUglyDogE

Learning the rules well,so as to break them effect
ICMag Donor
Veteran
8 looks like he's got bigger balls. He might be packen heat. :biggrin:

Yeah thats going to be a pollen maker fo-sho...

#3 is the bomb to me though...

Has a hella gnarly set of color and smells to him...
Wicked thick main stem as well...

I took 2 cutting of #8 and am re-vegging them now...
# 3 in veg has been hacked down already and is going
good as a small pop with his clone giving the pollen...

all the others where trashed and im getting ready to take the rest of the flowering pool and trash the plants...

Though... The cutting of GSTF#5 is already blowing out masses of pistils and could do quite well if tossed in a flowering room.

Might try and save and run that one...:dance013:
 

DamnUglyDogE

Learning the rules well,so as to break them effect
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Well,Ive gotten this pool making down to a science...lol
Less than a hours from beginning to end.

All and all,I like the flood pools VS the feed line pools because the feed line pools have feed lines and the flood pools simply flood...

hahahaha... That cracked me up just to say it....
Not having to set feed lines per plant allows me more plants in the same space and the plants can be moved around.

Also... With the pool already half filled with CC turning one to flower is as simple as... You guessed it... Adding CC...Nice!!!


picture.php

View image in gallery
 
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DamnUglyDogE

Learning the rules well,so as to break them effect
ICMag Donor
Veteran
looks good man. its been a while since I been around, but I will be getting something together here in the next cpl weeks keep up the great work bud

Good to see ya HB... Been wondering what was up with ya...
Thanks for the props bro... Been having a blast and about ready to launch a flower pool or 2 or 3... lol....

Happy holidays to ya Hotbox here's to 2014 rocken goodness like no other for all of us...


puff,puff,pass...AD...
 

Mikenite69

Active member
Veteran
AD I am gonna put in a special request Gsc x F13. What could be better? Maybe a low yielder but the quality will be off the hook 2 heavyweights getting together!

You should take your gsc turn on some Marvin gay lets get it on and let that f13 hump the hell out of one of your gsc FEMs. Lol

On another note Ad hope your Christmas was bomb and hopefully you have a great new year!!

Peace mike
 

DamnUglyDogE

Learning the rules well,so as to break them effect
ICMag Donor
Veteran
AD I am gonna put in a special request Gsc x F13. What could be better? Maybe a low yielder but the quality will be off the hook 2 heavyweights getting together!

You should take your gsc turn on some Marvin gay lets get it on and let that f13 hump the hell out of one of your gsc FEMs. Lol

On another note Ad hope your Christmas was bomb and hopefully you have a great new year!!

Peace mike

Im feeling ya bro...
GSC s1 x F13 is on the plate for sure..
Not sure if it would beat LTFB x F13 though...
Sure would be fun to find out...

Hunting for a good LTFB male ATM and it would be a toss up for me as to which male to use 1st if I found a "Keeper" male LTFB that is.

No guarantees I'll find him...

I spent my holiday with the GFs family and had good food and good times... Nice nap once home to boot...

Ready for something different 2014 and hoping it rocks for you as well,bro... Seeing you have some nice gear lined up for 2014 I got a feeling your going to have a good season...

Keep it green brother...
 

DamnUglyDogE

Learning the rules well,so as to break them effect
ICMag Donor
Veteran
A little pool rundown...

A little pool rundown...

Pool 1....

Already facing the light and showing new growth so I started pinching tops and shaping today..

Dont think I'll need the top light for a couple weeks...lol

The temp have been 78-82 since adding the 600...
RH is down to 50s with light on as I need the exhaust
on now to reduce heat and stank.


Took clones of all but 1 F13 and placed them in-front of the plants.
I should be able to remove them (rooted) when I flip the pool around the 1st week of the new year...


Pool 2...

A few of these plants are going crazy and getting big...
I need to spread these out and narrow down the ones going for a ride.


Pool 3...

Im changing this pool out tomorrow for the flood pool I just built.
Most of these plants will be gone tomorrow as there's just no need ATP...




I want to inventory pool 2 and transfer the plants into the flood pool 3. Then try and nail down how im going to set up pool 2 for flowering.


Options...
600w or 430w VERT
Take a chance on picking females and set a doughnut up with 8 small un-topped plants... Keeping the others vegging in pool 3 in-case males show in pool 2...

300 LED & 430w Air hood Or 600w Air hood
S.O.G... Dividing the pool into 4 sections (Pie) with one strain per.

This would be a fun challenge...
Using clones from the moms.

10 clones per section with a 8-10 day veg before flowering...
Might be willing to Veg the tent 14 days for this option..lol

Another option being to take clones of everything in pool 2 and place those into pool 2 while I veg everything in pool 3...
Might top them all in this case...

Once I flip the large tent and the sex shows from the clones I would pull the clones place the winners into flower...

Might be the smart option...
 

DamnUglyDogE

Learning the rules well,so as to break them effect
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Man what a PITA... lol
Just finished washing the last of 400 lbs of calcinated clay...
Washed it in the blue totes and even after 30 + minutes of swishing the CC and dumping the dirty water off the top it comes up cloudy...

Using a hose at full power I must have used a over a hundred gallons of water for the 3 totes...

Garden hose full power for and hour and a half....
Seems like a waste of water..lol Gots to get er dun though...

Getting ready to prime the new pool and looks like im going to be using all 400 lbs of CC...lol Damn....



What do yall think about pre jacked water neem washing ?

Washing the CC in the pool with plain water and neem.
6 oz of neem in 30+ gallons of water...

Change out the res water and add jacked water to charge the CC...

Is this a good idea or waste of time and neem ?


Another question for those that know...

Having 2 pools in the same tent,each with its own light source.
Could I run one light 12 hours then change over to the other for 12 with no total dark time and never both at the same time ?

Would this work instead of 18/6 or 12/5/2/5 ...

This would help with my rh and temps...
Wanting my temps and RH in the 70s at all times.

All lights on
no exhaust T 84 RH 55
Exhaust on T 81 RH 42

One light on at a time.
No exhaust T 78 RH 65-75 depending on the light.

Any thoughts ?
..
 

Mister_D

Active member
Veteran
Man what a PITA... lol
Just finished washing the last of 400 lbs of calcinated clay...
Washed it in the blue totes and even after 30 + minutes of swishing the CC and dumping the dirty water off the top it comes up cloudy...

Using a hose at full power I must have used a over a hundred gallons of water for the 3 totes...

Garden hose full power for and hour and a half....
Seems like a waste of water..lol Gots to get er dun though...

Getting ready to prime the new pool and looks like im going to be using all 400 lbs of CC...lol Damn....



What do yall think about pre jacked water neem washing ?

Washing the CC in the pool with plain water and neem.
6 oz of neem in 30+ gallons of water...

Change out the res water and add jacked water to charge the CC...

Is this a good idea or waste of time and neem ?


Another question for those that know...

Having 2 pools in the same tent,each with its own light source.
Could I run one light 12 hours then change over to the other for 12 with no total dark time and never both at the same time ?

Would this work instead of 18/6 or 12/5/2/5 ...

This would help with my rh and temps...
Wanting my temps and RH in the 70s at all times.

All lights on
no exhaust T 84 RH 55
Exhaust on T 81 RH 42

One light on at a time.
No exhaust T 78 RH 65-75 depending on the light.

Any thoughts ?
..

I think preventative measures (i.e neem wash) are always a good thing :biggrin:. As for one light on at a time, can't see any reason it wouldn't work. Might induce some extra stretch during the "off" period, due to the plants reaching for the "on" light, but that's purely a guess.
 

Mikenite69

Active member
Veteran
I would also think it might depend on how far away the pools are from each other. My only concern would be to much shading on some plants and causing hermies to pop out.

Maybe get one of those light movers Ad.
 

DamnUglyDogE

Learning the rules well,so as to break them effect
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I think preventative measures (i.e neem wash) are always a good thing :biggrin:. As for one light on at a time, can't see any reason it wouldn't work. Might induce some extra stretch during the "off" period, due to the plants reaching for the "on" light, but that's purely a guess.

Thanks bro... Always makes me feel better hearing someone else say it should work & Why not...lol

Good point on the stretch for light... Think my pinching will help in that department and would guess the main light source will keep the fans facing it,so should follow the growth... I would also guess the other light might encourage the backs facing the it to grow. Guess we shall see...Guess I hadn't thought about that aspect...

Guess what the word of the day is ? ______....

Guess that all I got to say about that...:biggrin:
 

DamnUglyDogE

Learning the rules well,so as to break them effect
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I would also think it might depend on how far away the pools are from each other. My only concern would be to much shading on some plants and causing hermies to pop out.

Maybe get one of those light movers Ad.

Good point bro...:tiphat:


I have a light mover...lol
I just dont like the idea of the fans chasing the ever moving light.
Cant say I trust the thing either... Zap...
Should resell it.. Dont think Ill ever use it...
Oh well...
More shit in a shed...Wheee...
 

SRGB

Member

Alien Dawg:

2 minutes gets me perfect floods...
Sticking with every 90 minutes~for now...

--

SRGB:

Hi, Alien Dawg.

Have you considered watering only once per day? Especially with calcined clay, which might hold a substantial amount of moisture?

--

Alien Dawg:

Truth be told. I have not. .lol.
I've been trying to follow a recipe that seems to work well.
Only... Mine is bigger. ..haha. .

--


My limited understanding of the multiple floods rolls are:
Make nutrients more available to the roots
Adds more air to the root zone,allowing for more air roots.
Keeps the res circulated,which does all kinds of good stuff.. lol

Could be interesting comparing once a day floods VS multi floods a day.
Hummm...

? For ya. .

Did you find multiple floods causing damage or otherwise negative effects or simply unneeded ?


Happy Holiday's SRGB Crew...
By sharing your findings and knowledge.
Y'all make this a better place to learn and to me.
That's a true gift that keeps giving.




Hi, Alien Dawg.

Thank you. Happy Holidays to you and yours as well!

--




Perhaps, beginning with clear and concise definitions of the terms used to convey concepts might be beneficial towards effective communication, in virtually any forum of exchange of concepts, particularly scientific concepts.

For example, the practice of flooding to

`Make nutrients more available to roots`.

we would first begin by defining `more`. `More` compared to what base or control? How is `more`, as an example, compared to `less` calculated and confirmed?

Would flooding multiple occasions per 24 hour period provide the conditions to

`make nutrients more available to roots`

than, as a constructive comparison, hand watering only once per day?

That question could be answered accurately, with numbers to support the results. There might be a fair amount of variables involved in evaluating such a question, including replication of the test across different gardens, environments, cultivar, etc.

We will not attempt to delve into that particular question presently; we mention it only to point to the potential enormity of the value or validity of such a verified conclusion following repetitive tests relevant to

`Make nutrients more available to roots`

While multiple floods per day may work well for gardeners, the separate question of whether multiple floods are `needed` might best be examined by the gardener themselves, if interested in such an experiment.

During experiments with SRBGB`s, we actually did perform tests using a large trough similar to the `pools` that you employ, though the troughs were somewhat larger (the attempt was to cover the entire garden area with the trough).

We found the simplest approach with an `automated` or `active` system was to simply place the 20 gallon SRBGB`s either on top of 1 inch pumice, or even directly onto the floor of the trough. We then placed a single pump into the trough, with the intake at approximately 1 or 1 1/2 inches above the floor of the trough. We then filled the trough itself with nutrient solution or water. The amount of water or nutrient solution required to rise to a 1 - 2 inch level (for the pump intake to be submerged, especially while running) was approximately 20 or so gallons. We then placed a 1 foot manifold at the pump output, and ran individual feed lines to each 20 gal. SRBGB. The top-feed essentially drained out of the SRBGB`s back in to the pool basin, maintaining a 1 - 2 inch level of approximtely 20 - 25 gallons for approximately 1 - 3 days, depending on the specimen and other environmental factors. We would make at least 1, but preferably 2 exact replications of the entire feed system (pump, manifold, feed lines) and swap them out approximately every 7 - 10 days, to prevent excessive build up of nutrient salts or other organic matter.
The pump was on 24 / 7. Roots grew out of the 20 gallon SRBGB`s into a fairly large trough - unrestricted - and able to continue growing into the 1 - 2 inches of `recirculating` nutrient solution in the trough. The approach worked for an `active` system.

However, we also experimented with the exact opposite. That is, for example, watering only once per day - or less, only until a minimal run-off accrued in an external trough.

Comparing the results of the above, that is, constantly top-fed and fed at once per day, the gardener might find similarities with regard to the root health and growth of the specimen.

We did the tests at multiple occasions, at both extremes, and found that constant watering did not necessarily increase root or growth rates of the specimen. Though, it might be rewarding for the experimental gardener to perform there own tests with extremes of watering and draw their own conclusions.

--

The second point that you present, that is multiple fllods per day

`Adds more air to the root zone,allowing for more air roots.`

might be an interesting proposition to examine.

Again, we would probably seek to first define `more air`. How is that measurement calculated? Compared to which practice? How much `more air`?

From our experiments with SRBGB`s, water did not provide as much direct access to air as air itself. That is, what we found was that providing oxygen channels, or access to environmental air permitted roots that were seeking that element to grow into that environment. While water does contain oxygen, air does not require the splitting of hydrogen away to access the air - it is just air (actually there is almost 21% nitrogen and other elements also in the atmosphere, or `air`, from what we can accurately recollect).

In any event, a brief example might be a container filled with water next to a container filled with nothing. The container containing nothing might have greater volume of accessible `air`, or oxygen, by volume. An interesting experiment to evaluate, perhaps.

Similarly as to the above points, we would first have to define what

`air roots`

are - and also what they are not. How they might differ from `non-air roots`, and the conditions which might encourage their growth and overall health.

Perhaps, for some gardeners, the definition might include references to `air roots` in various at large articles or publications or documentations; there might be a defnitive method to visually observe differences between `air roots` and `non-air roots`, yet those observations might be primarily defined within the frameworks of certain publications or `techniques` to achieve a specific result.

Another way to put the question might be, can any gardener observe any given root mass and accurately distinguish between `air roots` and `non-air roots`?

For that matter, what are `non-air roots`? What is their proper biological reference? How are they properly distinguished from `water roots`?

It might be advantageous for gardeners themselves to to thoroughly define what `air roots` are and which roots are not `air roots`. Based on available publications, corroborated with the capacity to actually distinguish between the two, or other specialized root mass portions - by their own (preferably replicatable) observations.

--

SRBGB`s were specifically developed to encourage root growth, not `root pruning`, within whichever technique the gardener may select to employ (scalable to DWC, SWC, NFT, other novbel methods), or by employing the methods that we developed to refine the technique of watering as little as possible and wasting as little as possible (preferably, wasting zero/no) resources.

During experiments with SRBGB`s we did find that given certain conditions, certain portions of a given root mass might indeed grow into `thin air`.

The conditions which generally encouraged such diverse root growth and development were those which permitted a greater volume of air both into the given SRBGB and outside of the SRBGB.

We would, perhaps premilimarily consider these portions of root mass as `air roots`, though we are not necessarily certain if that is the appropriate physiological term to describe such root structures. Unfortunately, for various reasons, this area of root development research might include terms which may have taken on more of a reference with an emphasis on `root pruning` `techniques` or `methods` than simple definitions between actual physiologically differentiated root structures.

With SRBGB`s, we were, at least to the best of our limited experimental data sets, able to tentatively distinguish portions of root systems that tended to grow directly into air; and further to replicate the process which we considered positive encouragment of such root growth, at other experiments.

The illustration at

SRBGB - Roots (at #6)

were 1 liter SRBGB`s which were part of an `extremes` experimental set, in which the specimen were only `watered`, at most, once per 24 hour period.

Some waterings were approximately 2 - 4 ounces (or less) per delivery, or only enough solution to produce a minimal run-off - a run-off that accumulated to only dampness (see basin floor).

At other occasions, the delivery was even less than 2 - 4 ounces of solution, that is, the experimental SRBGB units were only top misted from a single 1 liter spray bottle, until only the top of the media was damp - without enough being applied to drain through the SRBGB and accumulate run-off.

The media mixes varied between calcined clay, perlite, pumice, and combined mixes of each. The SRBGB depicted to the right, if we could recollect accurately, had media consisting of 1/2 - 1 inch pumice; rather `large` inert rocks, at least when compared to calcined clay particulate. That type of media might drain `more` thoroughly than a more compacted media such as calcined clay, or fine perlite or pumice.

Our estimation being that larger, irregular rocks might provide greater actual physical channels for oxygen within the SRBGB (as larger rocks compact less and form gaps between the irregular shapes of the rocks), and conversely might possess less actual water holding capacity on the collidial surfaces than a finer medium.

Again, the SRBGB`s were only provided water roughly once per 24 hours, until the approximate accumulation of dampness depicted in the illustration accrued.

--

Relevant to your (very good) question regarding multiple floods; our short answer would be that we are not certain about whether or not multiple floods might cause `damage` or other `negative effects`. As to whether multiple floodings are `simply unneeded`, we would refer to the above described experiments relevant to the limited amount of water or solution that we provided during what we might refer to as `extremes` testing.

Note that the moisture level at basin floor level was only `damp`, not `wet`; at occasions, it was `dry`, at least as perceptible to the experimenters, in addition to having not provided any moisture for 48 hours, or more (to determine if in fact the specimens` roots would stop growing into only `air`). The illustration that reference might depict the results better than we could accurately describe, though we would still do our best to remain within the restriction of accurate scientific communication, even if an illustration from an experiment was not available.

Towards that, we would describe a particular root tip growing out of the side wall of a 1 liter SRBGB, at approximately 1 inch (+/- 1/8) above the floor of a basin. The root tip increased in length and diameter as it grew into `thin air`, not having constant direct contact with a water supply. The root eventually grew to a length exceeding 3 inches (7.5cm), having a diameter of between approximately 1/16 to 1/8 of 1 inch (.15cm - .3cm). The specimen were irrigated at the rate of approximately 2 to 4 ounces (.06 - .12 liters) per 24 hour period, alternatively, some specimen were only lightly misted (1 ounce), in either instance the accumulated drainage (run-off) accumulated to no more than 1/16 to 1/8 of 1 inch (.15cm - .3cm). Root growth continued employing the same approach as described. Container: SRBGB 1 liter. Media: Calcined clay, perlite, pumice, combination of the individual inert rocks. Nutrient solution: Primarily synthetic, provided once or twice per week. Water: provided every 24 to 48 hours.

(See, in general, Square Root® Brand Garden Bag - Drain-To-No-Waste [Methods]).

--

The gardener themselves might experiment with different extremes to find any preliminary or definitive conclusions to the present question relevant to the advantages, benefits, or potential adverse (not necessarily as to the specimen) of mulitple waterings.

We would only present that clean water is perhaps the most `valuable` resource on this planet. If `less` could be used to accomplish the given task, perhaps alternatives to excessive use might be explored; by the farmer, soilless gardener, agrarian, industry at large, person. We might seek to hope that at least some considerations might be, perhaps, examined, relevant to the general usage of clean water.

From a purely experimental soilless gardening perspective, we would probably attempt to use as less water, and, indeed any resource (natural or synthetic, mechanical or static) as possible; in pursuit of potential maximum efficiency, and also simply to see if it (whatever the question of the experiment might be) is actually possible - and most importantly, is replicatable within the framework of the scientific method. To that end we posted the article Drain-To-No-Waste [Methods] (see above) which explored, in greater detail, the steps that we took during some of the above experiments.

Kind regards,
/SRGB/
 

DamnUglyDogE

Learning the rules well,so as to break them effect
ICMag Donor
Veteran

Hi, Alien Dawg.

Thank you. Happy Holidays to you and yours as well!

--
:tiphat:




Perhaps, beginning with clear and concise definitions of the terms used to convey concepts might be beneficial towards effective communication, in virtually any forum of exchange of concepts, particularly scientific concepts.

For example, the practice of flooding to

`Make nutrients more available to roots`.

we would first begin by defining `more`. `More` compared to what base or control? How is `more`, as an example, compared to `less` calculated and confirmed?

Would flooding multiple occasions per 24 hour period provide the conditions to

`make nutrients more available to roots`


Comparing the results of the above, that is, constantly top-fed and fed at once per day, the gardener might find similarities with regard to the root health and growth of the specimen.

We did the tests at multiple occasions, at both extremes, and found that constant watering did not necessarily increase root or growth rates of the specimen. Though, it might be rewarding for the experimental gardener to perform there own tests with extremes of watering and draw their own conclusions.
--
Perhaps I should say "Multiple floods might make the nutrients More often available to the root system" There by allowing them more opportunities to extract those nutrients which the plants need at any given time of day or in any given "normal" condition.I.E.(Light on/Light off)





The second point that you present, that is multiple floods per day

`Adds more air to the root zone,allowing for more air roots.`

might be an interesting proposition to examine.

Again, we would probably seek to first define `more air`. How is that measurement calculated? Compared to which practice? How much `more air`?

From our experiments with SRBGB`s, water did not provide as much direct access to air as air itself. That is, what we found was that providing oxygen channels, or access to environmental air permitted roots that were seeking that element to grow into that environment. While water does contain oxygen, air does not require the splitting of hydrogen away to access the air - it is just air (actually there is almost 21% nitrogen and other elements also in the atmosphere, or `air`, from what we can accurately recollect).

In any event, a brief example might be a container filled with water next to a container filled with nothing. The container containing nothing might have greater volume of accessible `air`, or oxygen, by volume. An interesting experiment to evaluate, perhaps.

Similarly as to the above points, we would first have to define what

`air roots`

are - and also what they are not. How they might differ from `non-air roots`, and the conditions which might encourage their growth and overall health.

Perhaps, for some gardeners, the definition might include references to `air roots` in various at large articles or publications or documentations; there might be a defnitive method to visually observe differences between `air roots` and `non-air roots`, yet those observations might be primarily defined within the frameworks of certain publications or `techniques` to achieve a specific result.

Another way to put the question might be, can any gardener observe any given root mass and accurately distinguish between `air roots` and `non-air roots`?

For that matter, what are `non-air roots`? What is their proper biological reference? How are they properly distinguished from `water roots`?

It might be advantageous for gardeners themselves to to thoroughly define what `air roots` are and which roots are not `air roots`. Based on available publications, corroborated with the capacity to actually distinguish between the two, or other specialized root mass portions - by their own (preferably replicatable) observations.

--


My understanding of the difference between:

Air roots have fine hairs (soil and rock~wool ppl will be familiar with the sight of the fuzzy hair roots)

Air root production is associated with cannabinol production.


water roots, Like those found in an ebb and flow tables look like spaghetti ..

Water roots often seem to be more brittle than soil-grown ones. This may due to the bigger aerenchyma – the airy tissue found in roots of plants that allows exchange of gases between the shoot and the root – which the water roots have.

Seems to me more roots = More fruits...:biggrin:

A great read:
Water Uptake and Transport in Vascular Plants
By: Andrew J. McElrone


A good read:
Transport and Logistics Inside the Marijuana Plant

SRBGB`s were specifically developed to encourage root growth, not `root pruning`, within whichever technique the gardener may select to employ (scalable to DWC, SWC, NFT, other novbel methods), or by employing the methods that we developed to refine the technique of watering as little as possible and wasting as little as possible (preferably, wasting zero/no) resources.

During experiments with SRBGB`s we did find that given certain conditions, certain portions of a given root mass might indeed grow into `thin air`.

The conditions which generally encouraged such diverse root growth and development were those which permitted a greater volume of air both into the given SRBGB and outside of the SRBGB.

We would, perhaps premilimarily consider these portions of root mass as `air roots`, though we are not necessarily certain if that is the appropriate physiological term to describe such root structures. Unfortunately, for various reasons, this area of root development research might include terms which may have taken on more of a reference with an emphasis on `root pruning` `techniques` or `methods` than simple definitions between actual physiologically differentiated root structures.

With SRBGB`s, we were, at least to the best of our limited experimental data sets, able to tentatively distinguish portions of root systems that tended to grow directly into air; and further to replicate the process which we considered positive encouragment of such root growth, at other experiments.

The illustration at

SRBGB - Roots (at #6)

were 1 liter SRBGB`s which were part of an `extremes` experimental set, in which the specimen were only `watered`, at most, once per 24 hour period.

Some waterings were approximately 2 - 4 ounces (or less) per delivery, or only enough solution to produce a minimal run-off - a run-off that accumulated to only dampness (see basin floor).

At other occasions, the delivery was even less than 2 - 4 ounces of solution, that is, the experimental SRBGB units were only top misted from a single 1 liter spray bottle, until only the top of the media was damp - without enough being applied to drain through the SRBGB and accumulate run-off.

The media mixes varied between calcined clay, perlite, pumice, and combined mixes of each. The SRBGB depicted to the right, if we could recollect accurately, had media consisting of 1/2 - 1 inch pumice; rather `large` inert rocks, at least when compared to calcined clay particulate. That type of media might drain `more` thoroughly than a more compacted media such as calcined clay, or fine perlite or pumice.

Our estimation being that larger, irregular rocks might provide greater actual physical channels for oxygen within the SRBGB (as larger rocks compact less and form gaps between the irregular shapes of the rocks), and conversely might possess less actual water holding capacity on the collidial surfaces than a finer medium.

Again, the SRBGB`s were only provided water roughly once per 24 hours, until the approximate accumulation of dampness depicted in the illustration accrued.

--

I always enjoy "Food for thought's" and you always provide quite a meal.... Solid!!!



Relevant to your (very good) question regarding multiple floods; our short answer would be that we are not certain about whether or not multiple floods might cause `damage` or other `negative effects`. As to whether multiple floodings are `simply unneeded`, we would refer to the above described experiments relevant to the limited amount of water or solution that we provided during what we might refer to as `extremes` testing.

I would say that if you have not found a negative associated with multiple watering a day. Given the array of test and amount of work you have done with roots... I for one find am comfortable in believing multiple floods do not cause undue harm to the root system and there for are a safe option(In my own opinion)If desired.

Note that the moisture level at basin floor level was only `damp`, not `wet`; at occasions, it was `dry`, at least as perceptible to the experimenters, in addition to having not provided any moisture for 48 hours, or more (to determine if in fact the specimens` roots would stop growing into only `air`). The illustration that reference might depict the results better than we could accurately describe, though we would still do our best to remain within the restriction of accurate scientific communication, even if an illustration from an experiment was not available.

Towards that, we would describe a particular root tip growing out of the side wall of a 1 liter SRBGB, at approximately 1 inch (+/- 1/8) above the floor of a basin. The root tip increased in length and diameter as it grew into `thin air`, not having constant direct contact with a water supply. The root eventually grew to a length exceeding 3 inches (7.5cm), having a diameter of between approximately 1/16 to 1/8 of 1 inch (.15cm - .3cm). The specimen were irrigated at the rate of approximately 2 to 4 ounces (.06 - .12 liters) per 24 hour period, alternatively, some specimen were only lightly misted (1 ounce), in either instance the accumulated drainage (run-off) accumulated to no more than 1/16 to 1/8 of 1 inch (.15cm - .3cm). Root growth continued employing the same approach as described. Container: SRBGB 1 liter. Media: Calcined clay, perlite, pumice, combination of the individual inert rocks. Nutrient solution: Primarily synthetic, provided once or twice per week. Water: provided every 24 to 48 hours.

(See, in general, Square Root® Brand Garden Bag - Drain-To-No-Waste [Methods]).

--

The gardener themselves might experiment with different extremes to find any preliminary or definitive conclusions to the present question relevant to the advantages, benefits, or potential adverse (not necessarily as to the specimen) of mulitple waterings.

We would only present that clean water is perhaps the most `valuable` resource on this planet. If `less` could be used to accomplish the given task, perhaps alternatives to excessive use might be explored; by the farmer, soilless gardener, agrarian, industry at large, person. We might seek to hope that at least some considerations might be, perhaps, examined, relevant to the general usage of clean water.

From a purely experimental soilless gardening perspective, we would probably attempt to use as less water, and, indeed any resource (natural or synthetic, mechanical or static) as possible; in pursuit of potential maximum efficiency, and also simply to see if it (whatever the question of the experiment might be) is actually possible - and most importantly, is replicatable within the framework of the scientific method. To that end we posted the article Drain-To-No-Waste [Methods] (see above) which explored, in greater detail, the steps that we took during some of the above experiments.

Kind regards,
/SRGB/


More good thoughts to chew on... Ummm good!!!
As always SRGB...
Thank you for your time!!!

:dance013:
 

DamnUglyDogE

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LyryC

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WAtched that trim video for 30 seconds - talk about the ugliest trim ever!? plus that looked like schwag lol - and anyone with tatoos knows you don't put them up online.... ANYWAYS

YOU ARE BAD ASS AS FUCK!!!! Love all the work man! Your pools are sexy AF!

Now You need to get yourself some big ole ladies n put em to work!

See you say you were going to move hte plants in the morning - well its afternoon!

Just kidding :tiphat:

:wave:
 

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