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The best mini-split ductless heat pump/ac models list
- Thread starter Stonefree69
- Start date
Friedrich has a well earned reputation for being long lasting and reliable. The Breeze comes precharged, and you roll up the excess tubing. It IS plug and play, and the warranty is honored for self installs. If I were going to have a tech install a mini, I'd probably go with Mitzubishi, otherwise Friedrich. Good luck. -granger
Bobbito Blaze
Member
I am a license HVAC Mech.The Fujitsu is a great system I've installed more of them then any other system. And don't believe I ever seen the other system you speak of. If your installer is recomending a brand go with it. That's what he has exp. with in case of a problem also he can get parts ASAP if that's what he sells with HVAC systems don't get to hung up on names. Also it's probably the brand he can get a better price on.
I agree with ^
But for the applications we are using these minisplits we need them to be able to cool inside year round. So IF you live in a cold climate check the specs of the recommended unit. To see how low of an outside ambient temperature that unit is rated to still work properly at. Because if it gets cold where you are located and the unit isn't rated to work with low outside ambient air temp you might to add a low ambient kit to the system to the coil doesn't freeze when it's cold outside and you have a warm room inside that needs the compressor working without letting the coil freeze
But for the applications we are using these minisplits we need them to be able to cool inside year round. So IF you live in a cold climate check the specs of the recommended unit. To see how low of an outside ambient temperature that unit is rated to still work properly at. Because if it gets cold where you are located and the unit isn't rated to work with low outside ambient air temp you might to add a low ambient kit to the system to the coil doesn't freeze when it's cold outside and you have a warm room inside that needs the compressor working without letting the coil freeze
Yeah I went with a 1 ton Fujitsu minisplit. It has 25 SEER and luckily my brother's friend installed it no problem (he's also a licensed HVAC tech). Runs without a hitch just like my Rheem main AC does.
A lot of other good brands out there too like BB says hard to go wrong with...
Have any of the Daikins youve installed shutdown at temps below 50F?
Doesnt seem like it would work for a growroom if its gonna shutdown when its cold outside
My grow lighting is 2.3kw with the heuristic 5K BTU per 1K grow light, that yields 10.6K that I would need. Since this is based on a heuristic, then I'm strongly considering going to a 9K BTU unit since the 9K's have sooooo much better ratings.
It gets both hot and humid in July/August here but typical midwest hot/humid. And it gets cold in the winter. I want plants to live indoors regardless of the temps outside tho!!!
I am also trying to insulate to a very high degree and my rooms will be nearly lab grade sealed. Its also a soundproofed studio so walls instead of being 1/2 dry wall board are instead super thick laminations - All the interior side of exterior walls will be minimum 2+ inches thick... Some of the exterior walls are also being loaded to increase mass and therefore reduce vibrations (sound emanations).
So... I really think I can do 9K - What do you knowledgeable HVAC dudes and dudettes think????
It gets both hot and humid in July/August here but typical midwest hot/humid. And it gets cold in the winter. I want plants to live indoors regardless of the temps outside tho!!!
I am also trying to insulate to a very high degree and my rooms will be nearly lab grade sealed. Its also a soundproofed studio so walls instead of being 1/2 dry wall board are instead super thick laminations - All the interior side of exterior walls will be minimum 2+ inches thick... Some of the exterior walls are also being loaded to increase mass and therefore reduce vibrations (sound emanations).
So... I really think I can do 9K - What do you knowledgeable HVAC dudes and dudettes think????
Let me preface by saying that I'm not knowlegable! But... McKush to make a more precise calculation for yourself, try adding up all the watts in your room. All the fans, pumps, ballast draw. Multiply 1kw by 3400btu and add some extra for battling the outdoor temp. Also keep in mind you might end up wanting to add a lot more watts in the future. Many oversize for that reason.
Another question is what time of day are your lights going to be on? Will that 2.3kw be vegging sometimes? Or a perpetual 12/12? In summer I run perpetual 3pm-3am light schedule as it's a good comprimise for me between having lights on during cooler nighttime while being convenient for my schedule.
Some mini splits actually will cool higher than their rated btu at lower temperatures... where instead of having a lower power output to get their max BTU they use their max power output to get more BTU. So maybe you could find a 9000 BTU unit that outputs over 10K when it's 70F outside.
Also someone more knowlegable might know if the higher BTU models actually have a lot more efficient output when running at say 50% power. Like maybe the SEER rating on a 24k BTU model is a lot lower than a 9k BTU but if the 24k is running at half power maybe its actual efficiency is similar to the 9K? I've heard people speculate this but haven't seen any real evidence personally.
Another question is what time of day are your lights going to be on? Will that 2.3kw be vegging sometimes? Or a perpetual 12/12? In summer I run perpetual 3pm-3am light schedule as it's a good comprimise for me between having lights on during cooler nighttime while being convenient for my schedule.
Some mini splits actually will cool higher than their rated btu at lower temperatures... where instead of having a lower power output to get their max BTU they use their max power output to get more BTU. So maybe you could find a 9000 BTU unit that outputs over 10K when it's 70F outside.
Also someone more knowlegable might know if the higher BTU models actually have a lot more efficient output when running at say 50% power. Like maybe the SEER rating on a 24k BTU model is a lot lower than a 9k BTU but if the 24k is running at half power maybe its actual efficiency is similar to the 9K? I've heard people speculate this but haven't seen any real evidence personally.
Hi farmari! thanks for the well considered response! I'm a first timer so I realize from the outset that I do not know many things or my future needs precisely... I do fairly well know that I'm doing 2 epaps and max 1150W, however the outside bulb temp is something like 122F at 1000W so not sure how these lights stack up to tracitional HPS lighting in terms of efficiency but from what I can ascertain, they are efficient... I always get curious and nervous around heuristics applied too stringently, 5K BTU per 1Kw grow room lighting seems to get a fair amount of respect.
Using the 5K rule, I get 2 x 1150W Max = 2.3Kw of grow room lighting and 10.6K BTU necessary to cool them and all ancillary systems. Sooo... round up for safety and I get to a 12K BTU sized mini split. LG has a 12K model.
However, if running even bigger than that at a reduced rate or a frequency that does not cause it to become inefficient ... if that is the case then I'm happy to upsize too.
Whatever will adequately condition the air as well as run most efficiently (less running $$$) is what I'm after.
Any suggestions mucho appreciado, gracias mano.
Using the 5K rule, I get 2 x 1150W Max = 2.3Kw of grow room lighting and 10.6K BTU necessary to cool them and all ancillary systems. Sooo... round up for safety and I get to a 12K BTU sized mini split. LG has a 12K model.
However, if running even bigger than that at a reduced rate or a frequency that does not cause it to become inefficient ... if that is the case then I'm happy to upsize too.
Whatever will adequately condition the air as well as run most efficiently (less running $$$) is what I'm after.
Any suggestions mucho appreciado, gracias mano.
Yes, if you run too big an AC it will be inefficient.
I myself run two mini splits, one in my veg room the other in flower. And I live in the Sunshine state. From 10 years grow experience I can tell you that a 9k btu will do you perfectly. Make it a hyper efficient Mr Slim ( i use two) and it will give you years of perfect temps and reliability.
I myself run two mini splits, one in my veg room the other in flower. And I live in the Sunshine state. From 10 years grow experience I can tell you that a 9k btu will do you perfectly. Make it a hyper efficient Mr Slim ( i use two) and it will give you years of perfect temps and reliability.
anybody have thoughts on what route they would go for 110k Btu's of cooling. it is split between two rooms, the first larger room will run approx 16-20kw and need 72k btu of cooling. the second room will run 8-10 lights and need 36k btu's.
anyways, my initial thought was to go with three 36k btu mini split units. each 36k condenser has two 18k evaps. the 20kw room would run two 36k units and 4 evaps, while the 10kw room would run one 36k and 2 evaps.
feel free to rip apart my idea and tell me why im wrong. also fwiw, the AC will have access to their own 100amp 3phase power supply, but i am really trying to keep the load under 50amps. the rooms will be run on flip flop as well. most of you guys seem to be saying that its OK to run the condenser 24/7? im on another canna forum with some seriously experianced guys and they try to only run the condenser during lights on for 12hours.
Other option would be to run a 7ton multi zone central unit that breaks down into multiple evaps in each room, but than i would imagine the condenser is running 24/7 full load. So i am imaging its better to keep both rooms seperate.
Eager to hear your thoughts!
anyways, my initial thought was to go with three 36k btu mini split units. each 36k condenser has two 18k evaps. the 20kw room would run two 36k units and 4 evaps, while the 10kw room would run one 36k and 2 evaps.
feel free to rip apart my idea and tell me why im wrong. also fwiw, the AC will have access to their own 100amp 3phase power supply, but i am really trying to keep the load under 50amps. the rooms will be run on flip flop as well. most of you guys seem to be saying that its OK to run the condenser 24/7? im on another canna forum with some seriously experianced guys and they try to only run the condenser during lights on for 12hours.
Other option would be to run a 7ton multi zone central unit that breaks down into multiple evaps in each room, but than i would imagine the condenser is running 24/7 full load. So i am imaging its better to keep both rooms seperate.
Eager to hear your thoughts!
Hi coconutz, +1 on the lung room. My lung room is just a tad smaller in volume than my FR/VR is. Would prefer a much bigger lung room, but I gots was I gots...
In my situation I'm leaning towards the 9K BTU LG model. What you are saying about the preference for the unit to run more than it does not run is how I've always understood HVAC to work. Not that I understand HVAC, I don't. Air and Water are very similar but very different too when you get into fluid dynamics.... I'm not an engineer either, just married to one and I did sleep at a Holiday Inn last night.
Many ways to skin this indoor growing cat it seems, however things like HVAC, electricity, lighting - pretty much are the same without respect to application.
Peace bro
In my situation I'm leaning towards the 9K BTU LG model. What you are saying about the preference for the unit to run more than it does not run is how I've always understood HVAC to work. Not that I understand HVAC, I don't. Air and Water are very similar but very different too when you get into fluid dynamics.... I'm not an engineer either, just married to one and I did sleep at a Holiday Inn last night.
Many ways to skin this indoor growing cat it seems, however things like HVAC, electricity, lighting - pretty much are the same without respect to application.
Peace bro
Hi AssLover - Let me start by saying firstly that I always wanted to say that out loud in public. "Hi, Barb dear I would like you to meet my new friend, Mr. AssLover. I'm sure you too will just hit it off in no time!"
It would make a good song title now that I think about it:
Hey ! Mr AssLover Man, play a song for me
I'm not sleepy and there is no place I'm going to
Hey ! Mr AssLover Man, play a song for me
In the jingle jangle morning I'll come followin' you.
Though I know that evenin's empire has returned into sand
Vanished from my hand
Left me blindly here to stand but still not sleeping
My weariness amazes me, I'm branded on my feet
I have no one to meet
And the ancient empty street's too dead for dreaming.
---- Ok I digress ----
I really hope I can successfully use the 9K LG unit in my setup. Its ratings are the most optimal from what I can tell, i.e. a sweet spot. I'm concerned about my running costs even tho electricity here is cheap compared to rest of the country, gotta love coal!
2.3Kw from the newer Gavita/Lighting Interaction ballast fixtures may not represent the traditional efficiency used to factor in the 3-6K heuristic... Maybe not tho and I need to make sure I'm not undersizing.
As I understand HVAC you want to be pretty close to correct size if you can - NOT too big and NOT too small.
Since I'm so anal about insulation (sound and heat) and creating a leak free room (mostly to stop sound leaks) I think I may be just fine at the lower end of that range as you suggest. I'm not in FL nor am I in Alaska for pete's sake so I don't have the extremes but I do have a solid four seasons to deal with.
Total square footage is probably around 100 sq. ft. That aint much square footage to cool. However I'm prolly going to be shining bright lights in there... hehe agonizing over these decisions...
thanks for your reply, peace bro.
It would make a good song title now that I think about it:
Hey ! Mr AssLover Man, play a song for me
I'm not sleepy and there is no place I'm going to
Hey ! Mr AssLover Man, play a song for me
In the jingle jangle morning I'll come followin' you.
Though I know that evenin's empire has returned into sand
Vanished from my hand
Left me blindly here to stand but still not sleeping
My weariness amazes me, I'm branded on my feet
I have no one to meet
And the ancient empty street's too dead for dreaming.
---- Ok I digress ----
I really hope I can successfully use the 9K LG unit in my setup. Its ratings are the most optimal from what I can tell, i.e. a sweet spot. I'm concerned about my running costs even tho electricity here is cheap compared to rest of the country, gotta love coal!
2.3Kw from the newer Gavita/Lighting Interaction ballast fixtures may not represent the traditional efficiency used to factor in the 3-6K heuristic... Maybe not tho and I need to make sure I'm not undersizing.
As I understand HVAC you want to be pretty close to correct size if you can - NOT too big and NOT too small.
Since I'm so anal about insulation (sound and heat) and creating a leak free room (mostly to stop sound leaks) I think I may be just fine at the lower end of that range as you suggest. I'm not in FL nor am I in Alaska for pete's sake so I don't have the extremes but I do have a solid four seasons to deal with.
Total square footage is probably around 100 sq. ft. That aint much square footage to cool. However I'm prolly going to be shining bright lights in there... hehe agonizing over these decisions...
thanks for your reply, peace bro.
I totally get you, ideally I would want a programmable model that can switch to dehumidifier mode on time or command... LG is mentioning a WiFi extension to be coming out soon too, that would be neat (maybe.)
But barring that I do have dehumidifier planned - I need to choose the HVAC and see what it can do for me first, then if I still think I have to additionally dehumi then I need to know that and design that in now so I know where and how I'm going to put it.
I'm pretty much building a sailing ship it seems sometimes. Space is such a premium that I went down to get more of it, then around to get some more... check my pics.
thanks for your comments Mr. AssLover. I'm seeking help by people who have already solved these issues, this interwebby thang makes us all collectively a helluva lot smarter. (reverse true too, granted)
peace brother
But barring that I do have dehumidifier planned - I need to choose the HVAC and see what it can do for me first, then if I still think I have to additionally dehumi then I need to know that and design that in now so I know where and how I'm going to put it.
I'm pretty much building a sailing ship it seems sometimes. Space is such a premium that I went down to get more of it, then around to get some more... check my pics.
thanks for your comments Mr. AssLover. I'm seeking help by people who have already solved these issues, this interwebby thang makes us all collectively a helluva lot smarter. (reverse true too, granted)
peace brother
I don't know about mine but some of the newer ones might allow for programming that. Mini splits are dehumidifiers and maybe could be set to dehumidify during lights off. I use mine as a dehumidifier on lights off, though I set it manually.
Regarding a higher output mini split not running as often, that's not necessarily true. If I recall right, most higher BTU models can run steady at very low output. Mine is 24k BTU and sometimes I can barely feel the air blowing out of it. In the specifications it will say something like "Cooling: 4000 - 24000 BTU"
McKush don't worry about the ePaps being different. A watt of electricity generates the same amount of heat whether it's from a light bulb, TV, fan, etc.. (just ask anyone who understands physics) Check the rated wattage of the ballast. My Gavita says it uses 1220 watts at the 1150w bulb setting.
Again just be certain that you aren't going to want to upgrade! If I had a 10x10 room and a separate veg/clone/mom area I might want as much as 10kw of lighting. (though in reality I'm using far less than that in the same size room)
thanks all for the responses! been thinking and thinking on mini splits and where I can locate it in the studio (lung room). Finally dawned on me that I could actually get a multizone unit and put one head in my home office and the other head in my studio. They happen to be adjacent to one another and my office does not properly heat/cool to begin with I think I found a way to slip this one onto the home office front budget an get spared the full wrath of the war department...
sweet.
sweet.
You can set a mini split to dehumidify 9when the lights are off) but the temps in the room will drop. Mine has gone down into the low 60's. The most efficient way is with a dehumidifier running at night.
You can use a larger unit but why spend the $$$. Get the properly sized one from the get go.
The only reason i run separate units ( rather than a dual head) is that if the outside unit ever fails then both my rooms are in jeopardy...
In the mini split world you get what you pay for. Buy the best brand you can afford. My Mitsu's have been running 24/7/365 for 4 years now. Never so much as a hiccup. A cheap Amcor brand blew the outside PC board within two weeks on install. Once bitten...
Not sure what a "lung" room or why it's needed. All i can tell you is how we do it in Florida, where it's hot as hell.
You can use a larger unit but why spend the $$$. Get the properly sized one from the get go.
The only reason i run separate units ( rather than a dual head) is that if the outside unit ever fails then both my rooms are in jeopardy...
In the mini split world you get what you pay for. Buy the best brand you can afford. My Mitsu's have been running 24/7/365 for 4 years now. Never so much as a hiccup. A cheap Amcor brand blew the outside PC board within two weeks on install. Once bitten...
Not sure what a "lung" room or why it's needed. All i can tell you is how we do it in Florida, where it's hot as hell.
