Broad Mites?

[oldmanriver1]

heat treat = heat the room up to 50c for an hour or 2 or around 122f

 

[humble_gardener]

Here's what I did....

The day after I first identified cyclamen mites I heat treated veg and flower rooms with plants in them at 120F for 90 mins, didn't hurt the plants at all.

My flowering room is 10 x 10 with 8 large plants. I let loose 4000 N. Californicus, 50,000 Swirski mites, and hung 90 sachets of Swirski mites. Been watering with aspirin every watering.

In veg I killed every strain that I knew I could get back from others, took cuts off of everything that was too big to dip, and burnt the mothers.

Dipped cuts/plants in Phantom/Indicate 5.

3 days later dipped them in Avid/Indicate 5.

3 days later (today) watered plants with Kontos/Indicate 5 (not sure if the I5 was necessary but used it anyway.

Going to dip clones one more time tomorrow, probably in Spinosad. Then water them with Kontos when they root.

None of the plants treated with insecticides will be flowered.

Will probably have to bomb my whole area when the flowering plants are done, just to be safe. Sucks that it will kill my predators, but they will probably be coming down with the plants anyway.

So far so good. New growth is looking nice and shiny again. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Thanks to everybody who contributed useful information in this thread. This is a very scary pest to have, but I'm feeling confident....

 

[RetroGrow]

Here's what I did....

The day after I first identified cyclamen mites I heat treated veg and flower rooms with plants in them at 120F for 90 mins, didn't hurt the plants at all.

My flowering room is 10 x 10 with 8 large plants. I let loose 4000 N. Californicus, 50,000 Swirski mites, and hung 90 sachets of Swirski mites. Been watering with aspirin every watering.

In veg I killed every strain that I knew I could get back from others, took cuts off of everything that was too big to dip, and burnt the mothers.

Dipped cuts/plants in Phantom/Indicate 5.

3 days later dipped them in Avid/Indicate 5.

3 days later (today) watered plants with Kontos/Indicate 5 (not sure if the I5 was necessary but used it anyway.

Going to dip clones one more time tomorrow, probably in Spinosad. Then water them with Kontos when they root.

None of the plants treated with insecticides will be flowered.

Will probably have to bomb my whole area when the flowering plants are done, just to be safe. Sucks that it will kill my predators, but they will probably be coming down with the plants anyway.

So far so good. New growth is looking nice and shiny again. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Thanks to everybody who contributed useful information in this thread. This is a very scary pest to have, but I'm feeling confident....

Note: You can heat treat as often as you like. There should be nothing living after a proper heat treatment. Just corpses.

 

[Gifted0ne]

Here's what I did....

The day after I first identified cyclamen mites I heat treated veg and flower rooms with plants in them at 120F for 90 mins, didn't hurt the plants at all.

My flowering room is 10 x 10 with 8 large plants. I let loose 4000 N. Californicus, 50,000 Swirski mites, and hung 90 sachets of Swirski mites. Been watering with aspirin every watering.

In veg I killed every strain that I knew I could get back from others, took cuts off of everything that was too big to dip, and burnt the mothers.

Dipped cuts/plants in Phantom/Indicate 5.

3 days later dipped them in Avid/Indicate 5.

3 days later (today) watered plants with Kontos/Indicate 5 (not sure if the I5 was necessary but used it anyway.

Going to dip clones one more time tomorrow, probably in Spinosad. Then water them with Kontos when they root.

None of the plants treated with insecticides will be flowered.

Will probably have to bomb my whole area when the flowering plants are done, just to be safe. Sucks that it will kill my predators, but they will probably be coming down with the plants anyway.

So far so good. New growth is looking nice and shiny again. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Thanks to everybody who contributed useful information in this thread. This is a very scary pest to have, but I'm feeling confident....

Why exactly are you doing 10 other steps after heat treating the room? i suppose heat treating doesnt kill the eggs? I think imma just heat treat a few times rather then doing all those dips sprays. Plus its been said just spraying water on them daily will make the mites leave the plants.

 

[Gifted0ne]

heat treat = heat the room up to 50c for an hour or 2 or around 122f

Thanks!

 

[RetroGrow]

Why exactly are you doing 10 other steps after heat treating the room? i suppose heat treating doesnt kill the eggs? I think imma just heat treat a few times rather then doing all those dips sprays. Plus its been said just spraying water on them daily will make the mites leave the plants.

Heat treating kills eggs. Water will not help.

 

[Gifted0ne]

Heat treating kills eggs. Water will not help.

wow really, that should be the standard for ridding them then.

Ive been spraying the hell outa them with mostly water and they have just began growing green again.. Although one of the times i shot them with Zone.

And ive only been able to get the room up to 97 twice (once with plants in), id imagine when i can figure out how to get to 120 the mites are Done.

 

[humble_gardener]

Why exactly are you doing 10 other steps after heat treating the room? i suppose heat treating doesnt kill the eggs? I think imma just heat treat a few times rather then doing all those dips sprays. Plus its been said just spraying water on them daily will make the mites leave the plants.

I'm doing the ten other steps because I refuse to have a garden with cyclamen mites....

Heat treating knocked em back but didn't kill everything. My room was above 110 for over 3 hours and between 118 and 122 for 90 minutes and still saw mites moving the next day.

Why would you spray with water? You wanna kill em, not knock em a few feet away from the plant.

Believe me, the last think I wanna do is treat with all these chemicals, but if that's what works that's what I'm gonna do. Like I said, none of the chemically treated plants will be flowered.

 

[humble_gardener]

And ive only been able to get the room up to 97 twice (once with plants in), id imagine when i can figure out how to get to 120 the mites are Done.

I had to throw a couple extra lights and a heater in my room, and it still took almost 4 hours to get up to 120. Plants didn't seem to mind though.

I believe that heat treating did really knock em back, I just don't think it completely eradicated them. Repeated heat treatments might work, but I also don't wanna keep heating my rooms up that high...feels like a fire waiting to happen.

Swirski mites also seem to work really well in flower. I can see them all over my plants doing their thing.

 

[Some old dude]

Plus using all these different toxic pesticides one after another is just self defeating LOL...They'll learn .

 

[Thomas Paine]

I threw all my big plants out, dipped new cuttings (in Abemectin), and heat treated the EMPTY room.

 

[humble_gardener]

Plus using all these different toxic pesticides one after another is just self defeating LOL...They'll learn .

Please elaborate how this is self defeating....

I've done one treatment of 3 different pesticides with different modes of action on small plants and cuts only. My flowering room has only gotten heat treatment and predatory mites.

Not sure why so many people in this thread are so confrontational. Aren't we all here with the same goal in mind?

Also, why so much neg rep on people just trying to help?

 

[siftedunity]

You make my point for me. You need to read my previous post several more times, apparently. If you are too lazy to read or do a search of the thread to protect your crop, why should I care about it? You are just wasting space and making the thread more cluttered. You are being selfish. All you think about is "me". It's incredibly childish. Why should I help someone who refuses to help themselves, and continues to clutter the thread with redundant questions? By doing this and refusing to read, you are disrespecting those who have worked hard on this thread.
One more time for the obtuse:
Thread tools>Search>Advanced search.
That's my last response to you. You just don't seem to get it. The thread is long BECAUSE of people like you. You're a waste of space.

its great you trying to help peeps here but you said your mites keep coming back so im guessing your method isn't working. I don't mean that in a mean way but isn't that the case? or have I missed a post somewhere?

 

[RetroGrow]

its great you trying to help peeps here but you said your mites keep coming back so im guessing your method isn't working. I don't mean that in a mean way but isn't that the case? or have I missed a post somewhere?

Yes. You have missed many posts. Mites come back. That's what they do once on your property.

 

[bradybunch]

RetroGrow, I agree about the laziness of members wanting to be spoon fed answers, but I've tried searching for my answer on this thread with no luck. Perhaps you could shine a light.

Can I start with a preventive cntrl program on fresh cuttings? Avid dunk, azamax, spinosad, neem, just to name a few of which I'll be alternating weekly or could mites inject their poison into the mother or cuttings before taking them and manifest later on and not be able to receive treatments mentioned?

 

[RetroGrow]

You need to scope the mother first to make sure what you are dealing with if anything. If mother has mites, take cuttings and dunk in Avid. Keep scoping. No poison if mites are not present or dead. All of this has been explained previously. Scope daily.

 

[opt1c]

i dipped plants in avid and there were still mites moving on em 2 days later like nothing happened.... also didn't do jack to the eggs... kontos on the other hand, 1ml/gal as a foliar... nothing but exploded eggs and dead mites as far as the eye can see... dustin's unique items has it broken down as free samples with expensive pipets so you don't have to drop a lot of cash on it... you only use a little and if you aren't introducing new plants into the mix you really only need to use it once; it's all about the ovicide... kontos is approved for use on vegetable plants and is only active for 30 days... europeans found no reason to not use it on indoor lettuce crops... it travels through the plant both up and down and can be applied as a drench or foliar... i wouldn't even bother with avid... it is also new enough where the species are not resistant YET so use the window while you have it

 

[Some old dude]

no substitute for experience

no substitute for experience

Yes. You have missed many posts. Mites come back. That's what they do once on your property.

I'm not explaining this to people anymore. Let them find it out for themselves. After six months or so they will think they have the problem licked. And then they will start to have problems again . Until they realize it's a "MAINTENANCE problem" not an "ERADICATION problem"...I invite everyone to go through to threads and count how many people say they eradicated them completely never to return...? They may say they did but they will also say they are still using serious poisons to make sure they don't come back...this is a mistake of the problem or they are lying. After five years of battling the little bastards I have not seen any evidence of mite damage or mites after digital microscope inspection for a year now. Now I fully expect someone to ask or say ,"Well you seem to have got rid of them how did you do it"...? I DID NOT SAY I STOPPED THE MAINTENANCE PROGRAM I PREFER THAT IS NON POISONOUS". IN FACT IF I STOPPED THE PROGRAM I AM USING NOW I"M SURE THEY WOULD RETURN...!!! And you will just have to read like Retrow said. We are happy to help but you have to be willing to help yourselves also.

 

[humble_gardener]

I could see the Swirski mite sachets being a good long term solution in flower. They are supposed to be good for up to 6 weeks, and the mites that come out of them seem to be working better than the loose ones (50,000) that were sprinkled over the plants. I believe the sachets have a food source in them which keeps the mites happy for a while.

 

[hellawatson]

Appreciate any and all feedback!

Appreciate any and all feedback!

My name is Watson and I have Broad Mites.:frown There's been a heavy weight on my chest ever since I found out! But thanks to this thread there's now hope where there was despair. I decided to begin reading around half way thru the thread as 75 pages felt easier than 150! Because of this I'm sure I've missed some explanations on issues I'll be bringing up, I apologize in advance for that. I must adamantly agree that there should be a FAQ created based off this thread, I also get that it would be tricky as new things are still being developed to deal with this scourge.
FYI, I used a 30x and 100x scopes to confirm the presence of BMs.

QUESTIONS
Heat treatment! I have a semi large room with 6 4x4 tables yet I only have 4 1000w mh lights on movers, getting my temp up to 120 is gonna take some work, I was curious to hear what other peeps have done to achieve 120?

One idea I've been considering is to buy 'portable propane heaters', anyone have any thoughts on that, clearly the big question is would the exhaust of those things hurt my plants?
here is a link to an emissions pdf. https://www.cpsc.gov//PageFiles/112559/co03.pdf
I honestly am not sure what to make of this, I'd love to hear anyone elses thoughts after checking out this pdf.

Here are amazon results that show what I'm considering http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...d-keywords=PORTABLE PROPANE CATALYTIC HEATER

I read in a comment early on that some thermometers don't do so well in the hi heat, what kind have people been using without problems?

next subject>>>>>
I've ordered OGBIOWAR, but have a few questions about this process.
Should I only atomize this product? or can I dunk? I'm just worried that atomizing wont get it all where as dunking, especially if I use a wetting agent, gets everything. What are peoples thoughts on this?
What could I use to break surface tension that wouldn't hurt the OGBIOWAR?
There seems to be a consensus that brewing OGB tea is better than just mixing into water, is it a big difference?
OGBIOWAR and humidity, my rooms RH stays around 50%, one idea I have is to set up a tiny drip system onto one or two of my hoods, any thoughts?
One of my fears is that if I get my RH up past 60% I'll be aiding any PM that may be floating around, which I've had problems with on and off, any thoughts on this? Could it be that OGBIOWAR also handles PM?

I use a Tall Boy water filter with special chlorine filter, is that enough or should I go out and buy purified water by the gallon for tea brewing?

NEEM + OGBIOWAR? My instinct says bad idea, your thoughts please?

SULFUR + OGBIOWAR? seems like burning sulfur once in a while shouldn't hurt any bennies. Thoughts?

I've read in a few comments about the success of a Kontos soil drench. That seems odd to me, how does a soil drench help with BMs?

What is the "Cyclamen hook"?

My game plan at this point:
2 dunks into AVID 4 days apart, followed by OGBIOWAR 2x weekely for a month then once a week for 6 more months, and once every 2 weeks after that. (I only do indoor fyi). And provided I can get my room up to 120 doing regular heat treatments from now on, say once a month or something. Any thoughts, recomendation, or alteration on this plan?

THANK YOU, this threat has been quite the learning experience! Keep it up, oh and can we all just get along in here! Everyones entitled to their own opinion, and nobodies perfect...