Born Loser
Member
Thanks for the tip! I'll check out the OReilly today. I use the Napa for hydraulic spills at work - doesn't seem 'right' for growing...
big plant ppk
- Thread starter delta9nxs
- Start date
Or a spoonMuch better quality without much more effort
Please explain this to me.
I top dress with the floor dry and the roots seem to grow better in the NAPA than in the coco.
Or a spoon
When you're hashing 40lbs of material your arm might fall off using the spoon method... Knowing how to use a drill without pulverizing the plant material = priceless.
Born Loser
Member
good information...
I'm currently using 50/50 coco and coco chips. Just regular nursery pots.
I have some Chem sis X neville haze ready to transplant and was considering ppks for those trees. I was thinking coco chips and birds nest mix which can be watered a ton-
but the floor dry seems to work so well..
Have you tried putting the napa in pots vs. The floor? Or do you find that plants grown in napa on the floor grow better?
Get a big spoon (like 24"+ soup spoon or larger similar shaped object if doing trash can loads) and stir your hash til your arm gets tired (10-15 min), go smoke a few, stir til arm is tired, strain as normal.
We did several hundred pounds of material using the spoon method while I was in the islands
. It's not as hard as you'd think to remove the trich heads, just a gentle stirring motion is all that's needed 
. If set on going the drill route I definitely recommend cordless, as they are easier to control the speed.Haha smart ass.
so whats the deal with your lighting schedule of 8 on 4 off, 8 on 4 off? i just noticed that when rereading the build part since i have to keep going back to the pics.
SecondAttempt
Active member
I'm running 8-4-8-4... works great...
Last I heard D9 had discontinued that schedule for the summer due to heat, but plans to go back to it when the heat subsides.
Hope you're doing well D9, I have a few bugs to work out before I start my next thread for you.
Last I heard D9 had discontinued that schedule for the summer due to heat, but plans to go back to it when the heat subsides.
Hope you're doing well D9, I have a few bugs to work out before I start my next thread for you.
just reporting in to let everyone know i'm ok. i am very weak and tired all the time but i'm getting done the minimum necessary to keep the ball rolling.
i have 17 more days of this part of the therapy, which is the worst, and then 36 more weeks of interferon and ribivarin.
i should get a lot more functional in about 3 weeks.
i have done the regular interferon and ribivarin before and seem to handle it ok.
i really don't trust myself to post intelligently at this point so i'm not posting much.
desert hydro, the 8822 from napa grows plants fine. i have one finishing in it now and it looks as good as the turface plants.
after reading the last few pages i just want to say to those contemplating running without sub-irrigation that you will get away with it for a while and then you won't some day.
this is now a highly redundant commercial device that is designed to bring home the bud, every time.
there are a bunch of other factors involved such as diffusion and hormonal signaling.
this device exhibits an overall synergistic performance that is greater than the individual components would seem to indicate.
HL's recent demonstration shows what happens when the synergy is right.
whenever you decide to make a change of any kind you should ask yourself if it will have a beneficial or a negative impact on solution stability.
if you have good water and jack's leave the ph alone, no matter what it reads initially, no shit!
in view of the discussions about potting mixes i will say that no matter what your final mix is comprised of it should test between 30-35% air filled porosity.
i showed a simple test earlier in the thread somewhere.
this will allow you to take a rigid material like lava rock, hydroton, or even marbles that might test at 45-50%, which is way too loose, and add something like coco, polyester fiber, or possibly the rock wool croutons someone mentioned, and adding just enough of it to the rigid stuff to bring the whole thing down to the desired porosity. test, test, test!
proper watering interval for a full flood in turface or 8822 is 90 minutes in a room with 24/7 air temps of 80-86F, with rh 55-62%, this is in screened material. aluminum window screen.
grow some good shit!
i have 17 more days of this part of the therapy, which is the worst, and then 36 more weeks of interferon and ribivarin.
i should get a lot more functional in about 3 weeks.
i have done the regular interferon and ribivarin before and seem to handle it ok.
i really don't trust myself to post intelligently at this point so i'm not posting much.
desert hydro, the 8822 from napa grows plants fine. i have one finishing in it now and it looks as good as the turface plants.
after reading the last few pages i just want to say to those contemplating running without sub-irrigation that you will get away with it for a while and then you won't some day.
this is now a highly redundant commercial device that is designed to bring home the bud, every time.
there are a bunch of other factors involved such as diffusion and hormonal signaling.
this device exhibits an overall synergistic performance that is greater than the individual components would seem to indicate.
HL's recent demonstration shows what happens when the synergy is right.
whenever you decide to make a change of any kind you should ask yourself if it will have a beneficial or a negative impact on solution stability.
if you have good water and jack's leave the ph alone, no matter what it reads initially, no shit!
in view of the discussions about potting mixes i will say that no matter what your final mix is comprised of it should test between 30-35% air filled porosity.
i showed a simple test earlier in the thread somewhere.
this will allow you to take a rigid material like lava rock, hydroton, or even marbles that might test at 45-50%, which is way too loose, and add something like coco, polyester fiber, or possibly the rock wool croutons someone mentioned, and adding just enough of it to the rigid stuff to bring the whole thing down to the desired porosity. test, test, test!
proper watering interval for a full flood in turface or 8822 is 90 minutes in a room with 24/7 air temps of 80-86F, with rh 55-62%, this is in screened material. aluminum window screen.
grow some good shit!
thanks again for all the good info and i hope you feel better soon. a lot of us wouldnt be where we are now if it wasnt for you guys.
best of luck with the treatment.
forkup
Member
I'm using the 8-4-8-4 veg schedule and it's great.
I sweated the ph thing at first in my ppks but took D9s advice. My nutes (jacks) ph out to the 4.8 range. It gradually rose back to the 5.8 range where it floats around in that area.
I know you spoke on this before and I'll go back and try to find it but if you have time and feel like it can you explain what you think happens during the transition to flower? During veg I started at 1200ec but as they ate it down I bumped it to 1500ec to maintain the solution at around 1200ec. I'm currently right at 3 weeks flower and it has risen to the 1900ec range. Next time I refill I figure I'll drop it to 1000ec as some plants show a bit of curl but no tip burn yet. I would have assumed the plants would eat more not less which should cause EC to drop.
We all look forward to your complete recovery!
I sweated the ph thing at first in my ppks but took D9s advice. My nutes (jacks) ph out to the 4.8 range. It gradually rose back to the 5.8 range where it floats around in that area.
I know you spoke on this before and I'll go back and try to find it but if you have time and feel like it can you explain what you think happens during the transition to flower? During veg I started at 1200ec but as they ate it down I bumped it to 1500ec to maintain the solution at around 1200ec. I'm currently right at 3 weeks flower and it has risen to the 1900ec range. Next time I refill I figure I'll drop it to 1000ec as some plants show a bit of curl but no tip burn yet. I would have assumed the plants would eat more not less which should cause EC to drop.
We all look forward to your complete recovery!
forkup
Member
What kind of fool, fills a kiddie pools with weed ...?... Oh, wait...
I for one would like to see...forkup a picture man...lol
Sorry I took so long, better late than never.
Dr.RedWhite
Active member
Your plants are taking up more water than ferts causing your ec to rise. I take this to mean I am using ferts at too high a dosage.
forkup
Member
Generally speaking yes.
T
THriveCompany
Just want to send out my best wishes to U and Urs D9...
