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Molasses: When to use?

Kustom_ax

Well-known member
Veteran
Hey guys! So I got a couple pics I wanted to show you guys =)

It's the third time i'm growing, and these are my little auto girls

Auto super hash (by pyramid seeds)


Auto Candy Kush (auto seeds)


Sorry for the bad quality, it's from my phone's camera.
Oh....they're 15 days old. No issue until now and they've been growing happily in my balcony =)

What do you guys think?

CheerZZ :thank you::dance013:
 

Kustom_ax

Well-known member
Veteran
So I can't find some good molasses anywhere.

Can I use Mascavated sugar? The brownest one I can find?

Cheerz
 

soursmoker

East Coast, All Day!
Veteran
Question... a while back I bought unsulphered molasses before I read that blackstrap was the best... is the unsulphered good or is blackstrap what I need? I know MM reccomends blackstrap...
 
S

SooperSmurph

I like to feed molasses with my final beneficial microbe treatment, about week 5 of flower, usually at the very end of that week, but this can vary based on when you like to start "autumning" your plants, but in general, i'd add it around the same time you are using your "peaking" products such as "Top Booster" from H&G.

For me this is dried molasses at 1.5 Tbs in a 30 Gallon reservoir, when forced to use liquid I use 2 Tbs.
 

DabSnob

Member
Polysaccharides (simple sugars) are consumed by beneficial microbes as food energy. This stimulates the soil micro-life activity, which increases the availability and uptake of bloom-promoting nutrients.

info from:
http://aptus-usa.com
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
What you need is organic MO or any that states "unsulfured." Yes MO has several nutrients including sulfur, but you don't want MO with added sulfur. It is added as a preservative. That means it is bactericidal/fungicidal. -granger
 

BigSteve

Active member
I been using maple syrup instead of molasses for a few years. I haven't done any research, but it seems logical. Anybody got information to share?

It's a bit expensive, but it seems trustworthy.
 

Kustom_ax

Well-known member
Veteran
@BigSteve

Did you notice any diference between those that got maple syrup and the ones that did not?

Yes, I think it is logical too.
 

foomar

Luddite
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The amount of sulphur in sulphered molasses is actually quite low at 100 ppm , half the amount in most wine and unlikely to effect a large soil population , added to grass cuttings it ferments to sweet silage thats teeming with life.

Definately the cheapest by far in 20 litre packs to 200 litre drums from farm suppliers , works fine for me in compost or in the veg and fruit garden , best fert going for sweet toms.

In a bleak and hungry post war Britain it was the only sweet thing unrationed , pretty much lived on mollasses sarnies for years growing up , even the sulphered tastes fine and was thought to combat rickets.
 
S

SooperSmurph

The only time to avoid sulfur entirely is late flower, since sulfur and nitrogen are the only elements that react in finished cannabis when burned, otherwise I don't see a huge difference between sulfured and unsulfured.
 

chileno1978

Member
Not recommended in dwc unless is the final flush, i did it in dwc recently and in 1 week the water solution got bad (shitty smaell) even using peroxide, ph went down 5, and some leaves got dry. I will not do it again.
 
Cheapest source for pre packaged molasses for the hydro industry will be Nutrilife Heavy Weight. 4L should be around $24-30 in Canada.
 
Not recommended in dwc unless is the final flush, i did it in dwc recently and in 1 week the water solution got bad (shitty smaell) even using peroxide, ph went down 5, and some leaves got dry. I will not do it again.

Because its starts brewing all sorts of microbes. Put molasses in to a bucket with some fertilizer and a beneficial microbe product and in a few days I'll be foaming and smelling pretty sweet.
 

chileno1978

Member
Because its starts brewing all sorts of microbes. Put molasses in to a bucket with some fertilizer and a beneficial microbe product and in a few days I'll be foaming and smelling pretty sweet.

And it did, that is why I use extra peroxide, but even with it got bad.
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
Tip on measuring MO--weigh it instead of using a spoon to "measure it".

Since 1 ml of MO weighs 1.4 grams...then 21 grams is the equivalent to 15 ml (gallon rate I use)...and 126 grams for 6 gallons (I use food container buckets).

Place container (I use plastic 1/2 gallon pitcher) with water on postal scale, zero tare weight, pour 126 grams of MO, stir a bit and dump into bucket. No more sticky spoons!

Cheers!
 

foomar

Luddite
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The only thing stopping most resevoirs becomeing a mouldy disaster is the lack of sugars for microbes to feed on , see no positive reason for adding them in molasses to any liquid system.

Molasses works very well in soil or compost and is cheap enougth in bulk from the right source to use extensively in the garden , but feel the risk of moulds outweighs any possible benefit in hydro.
 

chileno1978

Member
The only thing stopping most resevoirs becomeing a mouldy disaster is the lack of sugars for microbes to feed on , see no positive reason for adding them in molasses to any liquid system.

Molasses works very well in soil or compost and is cheap enougth in bulk from the right source to use extensively in the garden , but feel the risk of moulds outweighs any possible benefit in hydro.
I Agree, tested and it suck in liquid system (DWC), hopefully I will recover everything but the dammage was big (50%). Still 1 month to finish in flowering.

In soil should work, I will tested soon in soil.
 

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