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big plant ppk

I had no idea mate, so sorry to hear of your ills. I hope things improve for you speedily. I have a friend in a very similar situation.

I also wanted to say, you're a master of this craft, a true master.

Trev :tiphat:
 

DamnUglyDogE

Learning the rules well,so as to break them effect
ICMag Donor
Veteran
DUDE....

Thoughts are with you bro.....
Positive Vibes coming your way in MASS !!!

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View image in gallery
 

Mister_D

Active member
Veteran
Shit man, sorry to hear about that........ Disciple summed it up better than I ever could. You definitely have the support of the community over here bro. Hoping the best for a speedy recovery and not too much bullshit with the treatments.
 
W

willyweed

i hope this treatment makes you better than you were before having it.willyweed.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
well, thank you all very much but it's not a health threatening situation. i'm just going to be uncomfortable for the first 3 mos and i'm already a month into it. the worst part will be over with by sept.

it's a new experimental 3 way therapy and i'm one of the guinea pigs.

it seems to be working as my viral load has dropped to near undetectable levels in less than a month.

the physical symptoms are about like a bad case of the flu.

it's nothing compared to 10 years of cancer and a liver transplant.

i'll be fine!
 
D

DHF

well, thank you all very much but it's not a health threatening situation. i'm just going to be uncomfortable for the first 3 mos and i'm already a month into it. the worst part will be over with by sept.

it's a new experimental 3 way therapy and i'm one of the guinea pigs.

it seems to be working as my viral load has dropped to near undetectable levels in less than a month.

the physical symptoms are about like a bad case of the flu.

it's nothing compared to 10 years of cancer and a liver transplant.

i'll be fine!
Cool....Smoke more dope....eat more medibles......Do more dabs......WTF ever it takes to maintain , and above all , keep that positive fuckin attitude you bring to the table.....

Thanks for all you`ve done , and all you`ve helped along the way D9.....Back at the farm and headin to the lake this morning after GF gets done with breakfast and I go pull some maters , peppers , cukes , onions , and butter lettuce for a big salad to go with a boneless pork loin for the smoker that`s been injected and marinatin as we speak......

You`ll be getting some pm`s soon if yas know what I mean....Hang tough old man and.....

Peace.....Freds.....:ying:......
 

forkup

Member
D9 I'm glad to hear you're on your way to recovery and hope the new therapy works out for you. We can't afford to lose our mentor!

I'm having some issues in my new ppk setup. Background info plants in screened turface at 33% porosity, 77-79F temps, 55-65% humidity, nute solution jacks at 1200EC 5.9ph. The environment is good. My tap water is at 180EC and smells strongly of clorox, I'm on a community well which they inject with clorox. My water pressure is weak so I had to install a booster pump for my RO filter. The plants have been in the ppks for 8 days. The first 6 were on the tap water, the last 2 on RO. The plants are growing at a fast rate however there are problems. Leaf growth seems small to me and their margins are somewhat crinkly. Is there a chance this could be caused by the poor tap water? I was hoping to see an immediate change for the better with the RO water but so far that hasn't happened. I haven't made any changes as I hoped the RO would help. Growth as far as height is good but I'm sure it could be better. Here's some pics.



Also I had started seedlings in turface as I mentioned in a previous post. They are also still having issues. They seem to drop the bottom leaves as they grow new ones up top. They also get jacks at 1200EC and are in a similar environment. Another pic.



I'm still hoping the RO will "fix" things because to me it doesn't look like a nute problem. I thought maybe something in the tap water was causing it because something seems strange or at least new to me. In the past at different sites when I used my RO filter the ph changed relatively little compared to the filtered water however this time it changed a LOT. Tap water ph is around 6.0 but after filtering it drops to 4.5 requiring me to use a lot of ph up to adjust it back to the 5.8 range. I haven't added anything to the water, it's just RO with jacks at a 1-.666 ratio by my hanna meter at 1200EC. Growth has been fairly rapid with the stretchier phenos growing an inch per day so that is good but the smallish leaves and signs of stress at the leaf margins worry me. I've heard people say all RO should have the same ph but research tells me dissolved gases in the water affect ph so it can vary. With the fairly rapid growth I don't think I'm far off from dialing it in and it's stuck in my mind that I've poisoned them with the poor water.

On another note I noticed icmag counts smilies as pictures in posts? It claimed I had 6 images in my post so I removed a smilie and now it works fine?
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
hey, it does look like a water problem. the recent change to ro won't repair damaged leaves.

1200ec on your meter i take it is the same as ec 1.2

have you rinsed off an ice cube from the same source? viewing it for the amount of solids present but also in your case for color. any color at all indicates toxicity. except for opaque white, which is what the minerals should look like in the ice cube.

the ro filter won't remove all toxins but will get most minerals.

chlorine is only contained in water by keeping it all in an enclosure, like a plumbing system. as soon as it hits air it should start giving off the chlorine.

i wouldn't ph adjust the solution at all with ro water no matter what the initial reading is. i have found that, with jack's, it will stabilize at a good functional level by itself.

thanks for the photos showing your build. i really like the cpvc adapters rather than the carlon fittings at the pipe side.

and the cut down 3.5's for the tops.

but try mixing in the volume tank without the ph adjuster.

check an ice cube for color.
 

RipVanWeed

Member
Hey guys,

This is a good post for me to follow up. I've got 3 PPK's running and I'm not getting the jump I expected. Veg room is running 75 to 90 on the hottest days. RO water with Jack's and CalNit. When I tried no ph adjusting the Rez was way down in the 4's and ec 1.2.

The ec was climbing slightly with no ph change, so I've been adding just RO and a little ph up. Now it's at 1100ec and 5.25ph.

Target is 1100 and 5.7 to 5.8. Some of the slowness is prolly due to me transplanting from ProMix into the PPK's. I rinsed the rootball severly as I am worried about the tailpieces plugging (I placed an 9" circle of fiberglass window screen under the rootball and about 1" above the bottom of the Turface as a precaution).

I'm hoping that the combination of the rootball wash and low ph are the reasons for stall. They have grown, the larger one has gone from 18" to 26", but it's been 3 weeks now. Not comfortable enough to commit any more space to PPK till I see them grow faster than ProMix with H & Garden.

I've got some babies in turface with wicks for the next unit (all built and Rinsed). Hoping for a smoother transition.

All the turface dust from the first three units has settled out and I've just left it in the bottom. Solution runs completely clear since the 2nd day so I can't see that beein' an issue.

Feedback from you Delta9 would be great, but I knows your not feeling 100%. I'd be happy to hear from any of you guys running PPK's about the low ph. Pretty sure Disciple or someone else posted about these conditions, I know I'm a little warm and the girls may be drinking more than eating. That's why I'm aiming for a slightly lower ec.

Delta9, hang tough. There's a lot of us out here pulling for you.

Peace
 

forkup

Member
hey, it does look like a water problem. the recent change to ro won't repair damaged leaves.

1200ec on your meter i take it is the same as ec 1.2

have you rinsed off an ice cube from the same source? viewing it for the amount of solids present but also in your case for color. any color at all indicates toxicity. except for opaque white, which is what the minerals should look like in the ice cube.

the ro filter won't remove all toxins but will get most minerals.

chlorine is only contained in water by keeping it all in an enclosure, like a plumbing system. as soon as it hits air it should start giving off the chlorine.

i wouldn't ph adjust the solution at all with ro water no matter what the initial reading is. i have found that, with jack's, it will stabilize at a good functional level by itself.

thanks for the photos showing your build. i really like the cpvc adapters rather than the carlon fittings at the pipe side.

and the cut down 3.5's for the tops.

but try mixing in the volume tank without the ph adjuster.

check an ice cube for color.

Thanks for the quick reply. I just checked and all I see is opaque white minerals. So I should drain the system and refill with RO but without adjusting ph knowing it will settle around 4.45? The plants seem to be growing rapidly as far as height overall but with smaller leafs than expected and also the curling. I figured I'd let it ride for a few days unless it gets worse. Most plants seem a bit pale also, there's no healthy green flush like normal. Somethings stressing these girls I'm just not sure what. I'm skeptical of this water because of the huge ph difference between filtered and not filtered.

Yea the cpvc is ok but schedule 80 pipe would be better :)
 

forkup

Member
Hey guys,

This is a good post for me to follow up. I've got 3 PPK's running and I'm not getting the jump I expected. Veg room is running 75 to 90 on the hottest days. RO water with Jack's and CalNit. When I tried no ph adjusting the Rez was way down in the 4's and ec 1.2.

The ec was climbing slightly with no ph change, so I've been adding just RO and a little ph up. Now it's at 1100ec and 5.25ph.

Target is 1100 and 5.7 to 5.8. Some of the slowness is prolly due to me transplanting from ProMix into the PPK's. I rinsed the rootball severly as I am worried about the tailpieces plugging (I placed an 9" circle of fiberglass window screen under the rootball and about 1" above the bottom of the Turface as a precaution).

I'm hoping that the combination of the rootball wash and low ph are the reasons for stall. They have grown, the larger one has gone from 18" to 26", but it's been 3 weeks now. Not comfortable enough to commit any more space to PPK till I see them grow faster than ProMix with H & Garden.

I've got some babies in turface with wicks for the next unit (all built and Rinsed). Hoping for a smoother transition.

All the turface dust from the first three units has settled out and I've just left it in the bottom. Solution runs completely clear since the 2nd day so I can't see that beein' an issue.

Feedback from you Delta9 would be great, but I knows your not feeling 100%. I'd be happy to hear from any of you guys running PPK's about the low ph. Pretty sure Disciple or someone else posted about these conditions, I know I'm a little warm and the girls may be drinking more than eating. That's why I'm aiming for a slightly lower ec.

Delta9, hang tough. There's a lot of us out here pulling for you.

Peace

Seems we have a few things in common. The first 6 days mine ran on tap water I had mixed that needed no ph adjustment as the jacks settled at 5.8ish but over the next 6 days before I drained the system to refill with RO it dropped to 5.2. I had the same thoughts about the turface itself possibly being the cause for whatever reasons. Hopefully both our systems take off soon.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
Hey guys,

This is a good post for me to follow up. I've got 3 PPK's running and I'm not getting the jump I expected. Veg room is running 75 to 90 on the hottest days. RO water with Jack's and CalNit. When I tried no ph adjusting the Rez was way down in the 4's and ec 1.2.

The ec was climbing slightly with no ph change, so I've been adding just RO and a little ph up. Now it's at 1100ec and 5.25ph.

Target is 1100 and 5.7 to 5.8. Some of the slowness is prolly due to me transplanting from ProMix into the PPK's. I rinsed the rootball severly as I am worried about the tailpieces plugging (I placed an 9" circle of fiberglass window screen under the rootball and about 1" above the bottom of the Turface as a precaution).

I'm hoping that the combination of the rootball wash and low ph are the reasons for stall. They have grown, the larger one has gone from 18" to 26", but it's been 3 weeks now. Not comfortable enough to commit any more space to PPK till I see them grow faster than ProMix with H & Garden.

I've got some babies in turface with wicks for the next unit (all built and Rinsed). Hoping for a smoother transition.

All the turface dust from the first three units has settled out and I've just left it in the bottom. Solution runs completely clear since the 2nd day so I can't see that beein' an issue.

Feedback from you Delta9 would be great, but I knows your not feeling 100%. I'd be happy to hear from any of you guys running PPK's about the low ph. Pretty sure Disciple or someone else posted about these conditions, I know I'm a little warm and the girls may be drinking more than eating. That's why I'm aiming for a slightly lower ec.

Delta9, hang tough. There's a lot of us out here pulling for you.

Peace

hi, rip, thank you for trying this!

first, i want to talk about the ppk as a hydro device. i personally don't think it quite meets the usual definitions of hydroponic culture.

which is waterborne delivery of o2 and a lot of submerged root material. the ph needs of the plant are not the same in a ppk as they are in a classic hydro device.

we see different ph charts for soil and hydro. i think the ppk is somewhere in between.

and also not as dependent on maintaining a tight ph band as the plant is not sitting in the solution nearly as much.

all, and i mean all, of the regular ph charts that we see in this hobby, are very misleading.

they would have you believe that there is an ideal ph band for cannabis. usually depicted around 5.8 with a recommendation that you "let it float around a little so the plant can get what it needs".

this is simply not true. these charts often show no overlap of uptake on some elements. as if the plant doesn't get any of that element unless the ph travels through the band past it.

we have greenhouse hydroponic tomato growers running ph intentionally at 5.2. and right down the road we will find one that likes 5.8. and in Turkey, there is a giant facility that runs the whole show, tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers, at 4.6.

they grow beautiful, healthy, plants in all these places.

now jrpeters says that the jack's is designed for "tap water as well as ro or distilled."

but several years ago one of their lab techs told me on the phone that it was designed for distilled and ro water.

now i have 110 ppm tap water and i'm ignoring it and mixing the jack's as if it were not there. i think this approach is fine until you get to the point where your water starts interacting chemically with the jack's formula. i'm going to guess around 150ppm depending on the source. certainly by about 180 ppm.

all of my plants in both areas, veg and flower, show no displays, spots, discolorations, blemishes, or anything else. they are growing at high speed.

i guess what i'm trying to say here is that ph chasing will get you into more trouble than just leaving it alone and letting it find a balance on it's own.

the plant is not sitting in solution very much at all in this device so it's ph is not nearly as important. it's just getting bathed in it.

turface has a substance ph of about 6.2 and i think de is somewhere around there too. i think this has a moderating effect.

i fear high ph much more than low ph as most precipitation events occur above 6.5.

so if you have ro, distilled, or low ppm tap water don't obsess with ph. observe your plants for displays though. i really don't even think about ph anymore unless i see something that looks off.

as long as the plants look good they are good, no matter what the ph.

my veg system last night was at 465 ppm and ph 5.9 last night with a 600 ppm input.

my flower system was 1250 ppm and 6.4 with a 600 ppm input.

no plants show any displays in either part so i think that illustrates the point that ph is not critical in this device.

however that 6.4 in flower bothers me as it has recently began going above 6.2 regularly.

that, plus the fact that i have not done a total change out since loading initially and i'm getting a little surface precip and the res is dirty, is going to make me drain and refill today. this system was loaded initially about 12 weeks ago i think and has only been added to other than individual buckets being dumped weekly as a plant is rotated out and another put in.

most of us using a ppk have hydro backgrounds and need to unlearn some things.

this is not high speed recirculating hydro and chemically will not behave the same.

seriously, leave the ph alone. if your water is bad use a filter. jack's is designed for clean water.

also, rip, that 9" screen bothers me. why do you feel like you need that? it could provide some type of unwanted break in capillary potential.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
Thanks for the quick reply. I just checked and all I see is opaque white minerals. So I should drain the system and refill with RO but without adjusting ph knowing it will settle around 4.45? The plants seem to be growing rapidly as far as height overall but with smaller leafs than expected and also the curling. I figured I'd let it ride for a few days unless it gets worse. Most plants seem a bit pale also, there's no healthy green flush like normal. Somethings stressing these girls I'm just not sure what. I'm skeptical of this water because of the huge ph difference between filtered and not filtered.

Yea the cpvc is ok but schedule 80 pipe would be better :)

yes to draining, refilling with ro and jack's only.

you mean schedule 80 2" pipe for the wall thickness? that would be better for the tapered fittings.
 

RipVanWeed

Member
Thanks Delta9,

I'll back down on the ph adjusting. See how it goes.

I'm using the same Tractor Supply truck box as you've shown. Haven't installed float valve fill yet. 3 babies aren't drawing out all that much, so I've just been measureing the depth each morning and keeping the system right at 8" of solution.

Plan to upgrade to the autofill when I move the box into the flowerroom and plumb a manifold around the perimeter then through the wall into the veg room.

Talking about manifold plumbing, I'm not understanding what the cpvc fitting is, or the little stub out Forkup shows. Is that stubout going to accept 5/8ths garden hose? Any clarity on this setup would be great

As I ready the unit to go on line, I washed the turface way better by building a PPK, filling 1/2 way with turface, Then flushing with tap while stirring with my hand. Finally, I switched out the 1st half of turface and washed the remainder.

I used that disc of window screen because I was concerned about peat particles washing down to the bottom of the tail pieces and clogging the draining capabilities. Seems that slow draining can compromise the potential of the PPK. I assumed that the solution would draw right through the screen?

Thanks....Peace
 
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