Yeah they're different alright. But my soil buddies alternate b/w nutes and water. They mostly mix pretty high EC tho when addin nutes. One dude w/o any testers was rocking a 2.7 EC when I checked it for him. But I think that was like every 3rd or 4th water. So more like a .6 -.9 EC on the average...
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2 years 3 nute programs same problem week 4
- Thread starter pip313
- Start date
Yeah they're different alright. But my soil buddies alternate b/w nutes and water. They mostly mix pretty high EC tho when addin nutes. One dude w/o any testers was rocking a 2.7 EC when I checked it for him. But I think that was like every 3rd or 4th water. So more like a .6 -.9 EC on the average...
illicit-007
Member
funny you should say that
funny you should say that
I've had the same problem as you for the past forever too.
Week 4 the leaves start going yellow and fked up.
I think it's also because I believed I could grow 1.8 - 2.0 EC
I grow in Autopots which is similar to DWC. They are always sitting in the nutrient solution with air bubblers inside the pot. The try goes through wet and dry cycles but the coco never dries out.
Next grow I'm going to keep my nutes maximum 1.4 EC and see how things pan out.
funny you should say that
I've had the same problem as you for the past forever too.
Week 4 the leaves start going yellow and fked up.
I think it's also because I believed I could grow 1.8 - 2.0 EC
I grow in Autopots which is similar to DWC. They are always sitting in the nutrient solution with air bubblers inside the pot. The try goes through wet and dry cycles but the coco never dries out.
Next grow I'm going to keep my nutes maximum 1.4 EC and see how things pan out.
Not at all too much. Consider that this is actually the middle range (or even low)of suggested EC in soil when fertilizing on a weekly to bi-weekly schedule with the former being faster growing annuals.
I think the issue is that we are disconnected from the larger body of knowledge of commercial crop cultivation.
M
Mtn Dew
mg
1. Im not growing in soil.
2. My plants get nutes every second of every day.
3. If you dont grow dwc you dont know, it is different from other hydro.
My bad. Don't know why I kept thinking you was in soil. Anyhow, I had a system similar to yours, even have that same air pump (got 2 actually), except i went total horizontal w scrog net and a light mover. Hard to tell but I see 3/4" returns and no feed lines. How are you feeding every two days? And what is the water level in those buckets?
Just curious, cause that's one nice plant you got there. Oh yeah, I've done just about every type hydro system imaginable, including both dwc and rdwc. But have decided on, at least for now, coco in air pots dtw. It rivals dwc and it's a better fit for my current situation. But I really, really want to grow frickin vert tree in a UC.
Yep, I had the same issue with the 1/2 in 3/4 back, then tried using a ball valve to cut back but then some would flow fast and some would barely trickle. Finally ran spaghetti line off the 1/2 and drilled holes in the side of bucket (so I could take off the net pot w/o messin w line) to feed in. That ended up working OK. One day I'll get back to water culture and have 4" returns! For now DTW coco in airpots are gonna have to do.
Just wondering, did you recently up the light wattage, or place under diff light?
Hey man, do yourself a favor and google alkalinity and gain an understanding of the difference between pH and alkalinity. Then how bicarbonates act on alkalinity of media over time and how that effects plants. You could be experiencing an elevated alkalinity in your media due to bicarbonates in your water. The constant problem at week 4/5 is often telltale. Good luck.
Peace.
Peace.
Did u ever try and give em a good general feed in mid-flower with Nitrogen (100-150ppm)
or some other balanced feed for hydro it could be any just it has all included N-P-K, Sulfur, Mg plus trace elements.
Maby u could before the problem starts - exchange water if u can drain it to.
Edit, reread u tread and it seam that u are on track.
Just gotta love jack for his instant Iron deff to correct it and pepol just tell u to do as he says -
or some other balanced feed for hydro it could be any just it has all included N-P-K, Sulfur, Mg plus trace elements.
Maby u could before the problem starts - exchange water if u can drain it to.
Edit, reread u tread and it seam that u are on track.
Just gotta love jack for his instant Iron deff to correct it and pepol just tell u to do as he says -
moonymonkey
Active member
epsom salts or nitricacid id say epomsalts took afect. magnesium can b a indicator of interferance of nurients,ph,to much food,some cases to much ater.if checked ph,next nutrients..detective work and advice from others on this type of growing....peace mm
moonymonkey
Active member
magnesium cure can=interferance of nutrients or shortage.
moonymonkey
Active member
magnesium cure can=interferance of nutrients,or shortage.
There are many strains that start to yellow pretty hard on week 4.... and some that just won't yellow even at chop time. I grow in soil and so I understand there are differences. I've also grown RDWC and DWC and other hydro systems.
With a living soil full of nutrients that will last years it's plain to see in this application.
Here is a soil that could feed plants with just water for many cycles..... but you will notice that this strain yellow's regardless at week 3 and I'm sure even more on week 4. You should also know that there is no flush and the plant yellows on it's own even with a nutrient supply. Your first photo of the week 5 yellowing looks just right.
I'd say that if all else looks good and yields are good.... stop worrying and move one that's how that plant grows.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5766942&postcount=30
Was just having a conversation about this.
So in hydro, when ruling everything else out.... Genetics play a big role.
With a living soil full of nutrients that will last years it's plain to see in this application.
Here is a soil that could feed plants with just water for many cycles..... but you will notice that this strain yellow's regardless at week 3 and I'm sure even more on week 4. You should also know that there is no flush and the plant yellows on it's own even with a nutrient supply. Your first photo of the week 5 yellowing looks just right.
I'd say that if all else looks good and yields are good.... stop worrying and move one that's how that plant grows.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5766942&postcount=30
this is the kind of pattern i often see:
at 3 weeks this NL is already starting to yellow a tiny bit.
at 6 weeks the yellowing is fairly pronounced
at 10 weeks harvest time, the plant has yielded very well. worked out at 1.6 grams per watt.
Was just having a conversation about this.
So in hydro, when ruling everything else out.... Genetics play a big role.
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Whatever you do... don't do this with cannabis.
Cannabis is finicky about nitrogen in flower, if you want solid and potent bud. Nitrogen tends to grow longer stems and fluffier, stemmier bud. It also has a documented effect on the amount of THC that's produced.
More nitro in flower than needed, less thc produced.
Stay Safe!
You shouldn't be so quick to disregard those with so much experience. Good luck.
Yes I did say veg plants can take more. But I believe I also said if the plants look like they can handle it. If not I surely meant to.
Plants in my system can take veg nutes anywhere from EC 1.0 to EC 1.6 later on into bloom. BUT that's when I know they can take it after stepping up the EC or a period of weekly increases. Plant specific.
This last run I kept the ec at 1.0 all the way through and got crazy, a good crazy, result.
Look, I know that after running higher EC's it hard and literally makes no sense that lower EC's will work. Been there, done that, and realized that most times, LESS IS MORE.
In bloom I do run veg nutes the first 2 to 3 weeks. Adding bloom nutes mid way through week 2 or week 3. I determine the 2 or 3 week veg nute period by how long the plant is required to bloom. like this.
If the plant blooms in under 70 days I run veg nutes for the first 2 weeks, adding bloom nutes in the middle of week 2(3 days into week 2). in the middle of week 2 when I add water or remove water to make the addition, I make sure the ec level with the veg nutes is around EC ,8 to EC 1.0 then add bloom nutes to EC 1.2 to EC 1.4, At the beginning of week 3 I do a res change and go with full bloom nutes
If the plant runs more than 70 days I add the bloom nutes in the middle of week 3, do a res change at the 4th week with full bloom nutes.
At the beginning of week 5 in either case, I do a res change. At this point I add any additives then the FloraNova bloom to EC 1.2 THEN add KoolBloom to EC 1.4. I never add more than .2 EC of Kool Bloom because it's some strong shit and will fry your plants in a flash.
With KoolBloom, I use the powder only, to a 1/2 gallon plastic juice bottle. I add about a 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch of powder to the bottom of the bottle. Fill it half way up with ro water and then shake it up like your balls depend on it mixing!! This way I can pour it in until I get to the target EC I'm looking for.
In bloom I very rarely exceed EC's higher than 1.2 to 1.4.
Seems the less you give them the better they preform. It's like a sweet spot that provides the plants with just enough to preform well while making the plant work to get what it needs to really swell up and coat itself with resin. The nitrogen the first 2 or 3 weeks provides the plant with enough to make it through bloom..
Also, I never use anything but RO water. That way I know exactly what I'm feeding the girls.
At the beginning of week 5 in either case, I do a res change. At this point I add any additives then the FloraNova bloom to EC 1.2 THEN add KoolBloom to EC 1.4. I never add more than .2 EC of Kool Bloom because it's some strong shit and will fry your plants in a flash.
With KoolBloom, I use the powder only, to a 1/2 gallon plastic juice bottle. I add about a 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch of powder to the bottom of the bottle. Fill it half way up with ro water and then shake it up like your balls depend on it mixing!! This way I can pour it in until I get to the target EC I'm looking for.
In bloom I very rarely exceed EC's higher than 1.2 to 1.4.
Seems the less you give them the better they preform. It's like a sweet spot that provides the plants with just enough to preform well while making the plant work to get what it needs to really swell up and coat itself with resin. The nitrogen the first 2 or 3 weeks provides the plant with enough to make it through bloom..
Also, I never use anything but RO water. That way I know exactly what I'm feeding the girls.
