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The New & Improved [ROLS MEGATHREAD].

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D

Durdy

GAS - are you running them through the compost to"charge" them in a similar fashion to char?
 

Gascanastan

Gone but NOT forgotten...
Veteran
Yeppers...
It's basically a 'brown' material and will sequester nitrogen....all the while maintaining some kind of structure and providing trace amounts of silica as it breaks down.
 

VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
Boutique Breeder
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
It pretty obvious the regulars of the thread are aware of proper composting techniques since compost is often the humic source in living soil. Thanks for bringing fire to the natives... but I'm confident we have composting under control.

the dude cant hear you Gas - he's off grid atm, gatecrashing the teddybears' picnic so he can tell them that they're best off sh1tting in the woods :laughing:

VG :tiphat:
 

Gascanastan

Gone but NOT forgotten...
Veteran
the dude cant hear you Gas - he's off grid atm, gatecrashing the teddybears' picnic so he can tell them that they're best off sh1tting in the woods :laughing:

VG :tiphat:
Like the toilet paper commercial with the happy domesticated animated version of 'bears' selling you on the quilted softeness.
 
D

dogfishheadie

bubbling up my soak I intended to use tonight to hydrate my soil for the new seeds and have a quick question to put my mind at ease.

originally was going to just bubble up 4 gallons of water with 1/4 cup kelp then add my agisil, aloe and fulpower at the end. yet after harvesting fresh EWC for the starting mix, I couldn't help but throw in a cup + 30ml or so of the leachate from the bottom bin. not sure if that's a bit too much goodness to germinate the seeds in?

should I stick with that mix or do a H2O + agisil + aloe hydrate instead? I can see the kelp + EWC tea good for once they've popped and doing their thing, just not too comfortable in the germination stage, hate to waste those expensive seeds!
 
B

BlueJayWay

^^^ I'm unsure about that man - i've always had the best luck just keepin' it simple (water/kelp or water/aloe etc), I get myself into trouble when I get excited and mix up too many things :D

I had been mentioning a mulch mix I was trying out, Comfrey/Yarrow/Nettle - and in a conversation with CC we both noticed how Comfrey mulch turns nearly pitch black - well here's one I mulched with that mix:

picture.php


From fresh dried herbs to a black mess in ~30days - wonder how much benefits is already being had by the plant?

Here's the plant that is in it BO x CB....

picture.php
 
D

dogfishheadie

sorta was afraid of that. I'll be more up for experiments down the road, want to go with tried and true methodologies first, I'll make a new batch tonight of just the kelp.

on that note, think my seeds will be okay if they go for another 24 hours or so in the starting solution after they've sunk to the bottom of the shot glass? I'm using coco water, regular water, aloe + agisil and bioag fulpower in four different shot glasses. really only concerned about the aloe and fulvic as aloe ferments and the bottle instructions for fulpower says to soak seeds for 24 hours and vegetable seeds for 36, don't want it to soak for too long.

would I be okay just taking them out and leaving on a paper plate till the kelp tea is ready?

thanks for all the help!
 
Y

YosemiteSam

Basalt? Zeolite?

Basalt? Zeolite?

So I found a source of Basalt that is convenient for me. The directions say add 15% for a potting soil.

When I calculate roughly what Cootz is adding he is around 4%. Did I get some weak ass basalt? Has anyone ever run it at higher levels than Cootz? Is anyone aware of a lab that can test the paramagnetic levels of various basalts?

Zeolite...has anyone ever tried this stuff? I am guessing it is not so important when one has good humus levels. But I am curious. I know it suppose to be great for holding NH4 and K...but does it also hold onto anions?
 

Gascanastan

Gone but NOT forgotten...
Veteran
So I found a source of Basalt that is convenient for me. The directions say add 15% for a potting soil.

When I calculate roughly what Cootz is adding he is around 4%. Did I get some weak ass basalt? Has anyone ever run it at higher levels than Cootz? Is anyone aware of a lab that can test the paramagnetic levels of various basalts?

Zeolite...has anyone ever tried this stuff? I am guessing it is not so important when one has good humus levels. But I am curious. I know it suppose to be great for holding NH4 and K...but does it also hold onto anions?

It shouldn't matter,but you know Coot,he may have some very good reason for that %..and he probably told us somewhere back there.....

I've never used Zeolite.
 

John Deere

Active member
Veteran
You may not vote on any more threads today.

I think I got that message about a dozen times so far in this thread today.
 
D

Durdy

I believe CC mentioned that suppliers suggest far more than he does and that it didn't really matter one way or the other, but my memory betrays me sometimes so take that advice with caution.

On another note I got to "weed" some borage that was growing into the pathways of a garden I help in a few times a week. Can't wait to mulch my no-till with it when the lights switch on later :D

Scored two free Jerusalem Artichokes (sunchokes?) from a cutie at the plant nursery today! I love a chick whose super into gardening.
 

W89

Active member
Veteran
sorta was afraid of that. I'll be more up for experiments down the road, want to go with tried and true methodologies first, I'll make a new batch tonight of just the kelp.

on that note, think my seeds will be okay if they go for another 24 hours or so in the starting solution after they've sunk to the bottom of the shot glass? I'm using coco water, regular water, aloe + agisil and bioag fulpower in four different shot glasses. really only concerned about the aloe and fulvic as aloe ferments and the bottle instructions for fulpower says to soak seeds for 24 hours and vegetable seeds for 36, don't want it to soak for too long.

would I be okay just taking them out and leaving on a paper plate till the kelp tea is ready?

thanks for all the help!

I usually soak seeds untill they crack or if the majority has cracked.. too long and they will drown and rot
 
So I found a source of Basalt that is convenient for me. The directions say add 15% for a potting soil.

When I calculate roughly what Cootz is adding he is around 4%. Did I get some weak ass basalt? Has anyone ever run it at higher levels than Cootz? Is anyone aware of a lab that can test the paramagnetic levels of various basalts?

Zeolite...has anyone ever tried this stuff? I am guessing it is not so important when one has good humus levels. But I am curious. I know it suppose to be great for holding NH4 and K...but does it also hold onto anions?

Paramagnetic levels? Basalt is basalt unless it's something else; I don't see how you could get a weak-ass version. I would guess going higher than 4% wouldn't leave enough space for other ingredients or be needed.
 

LilMan72003

Active member
^^Enjoyed the read, thorough and informative. Found this interesting:

"The rate of SOM (soil organic matter) decomposition increases when the soil is exposed to cycles of drying and wetting compared to soils that are continuously wet or dry."
 

Scrappy4

senior member
Veteran
Bookmarked thank you!:comfort:

Did you read this part?

Mycorrhizal fungi live in the soil on the surface of or within plant roots.

On the surface of the soil is news to me, I wonder what microbeman will say.

And after reading this paper I wonder if in no till horticulture if we should add more carbon, or if the peat and leaf mold are plenty....scrappy
 
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