I think they mean this....
"... on the surface of or within plant roots."
Surface of roots.... not the soil. Yeah?
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I think they mean this....
"... on the surface of or within plant roots."
Surface of roots.... not the soil. Yeah?
I think your right, and I think I'm high, good catch' my bad"...scrappy
i have a question, my last run i used a leftover bale of bcuzz mix with perlite mixed in bcuzz i had it, i added 20# wc, 3 cups blood meal, 6 cups bone meal, 2.5 cups kelp, greensand and azomite, my grape krush were feeding heavier than the others and the N faded out to quick, still turned out nice, but needed more N
...on the current run i did same recipe, but doubled the blood meal to 6 cups, now they should be done, but im getting very little fade, and the buds are big, but leafy and not as dense, some look not close to done and they should be, is this strictly a N issue, or am i missing something?
...on the current run i did same recipe, but doubled the blood meal to 6 cups, now they should be done, but im getting very little fade, and the buds are big, but leafy and not as dense, some look not close to done and they should be, is this strictly a N issue, or am i missing something?
Y
YosemiteSam
imo...like all rock dusts the exact make up depends on where the material was mined so they are not all the same. All of these materials are source dependent....your kelp meal may not be exactly the same as mine...I have seen anywhere from 0-0-1 to 1-0-4.
From Nutri- Tech (they are in Australia so not real practical to send a sample to them)
13) Check for paramagnetic levels and apply basalt crusher dust if required:
NTS offer a free paramagnetic testing service. Send us 50 grams of your soil and / or a sample of crusher dust from your nearest blue metal quarry, and we will measure them for you. Paramagnetism is a concept in agriculture which is attracting tremendous interest. It has always been known that volcanic soils will always outproduce soils from a non-volcanic origin. Professor Phil Callahan has shown that volcanic soils act as an antenna to draw electromagnetic radiation (radio waves) into the root-zone. Radio waves have been shown to increase cell division in both plants and beneficial micro-organisms. Basalt rock is often a source of powerful paramagnetic energy, and soils that are low in paramagnetism can receive a significant fertility boost through the addition of basalt crusher dust at 5 tonnes per hectare. Note: Measure your soil first to see if you will benefit from this material (any soil measuring lower than 300 CGS can show substantial benefits). Basalt crusher dust is not necessarily highly paramagnetic, and you will need to test your local supply to determine its fertiliser potential.
From Arden Andersen when asked if you can put too much crusher dust (basalt) in soil
Arden: There are re ally only two neg a tives about putt ing on large amounts of crusher dust. One relates to the possibility of unbalanced mineral content in the crusher dust. Iron can be a problem, and there is even the potential for heavy-metal contamination in some of these materials. The second negative relates simply to the cost of large
applications. However, from a biological perspective, the more fertile the soil is, the higher the magnetic susceptibility. It must be made clear that this doesn’t guarantee that the higher the magnetic susceptibility, the more fertile the soil, because it depends
totally on what makes up that magnetic susceptibility. For example, you don’t want a ferromagnetic situation; you want the influence to be paramagnetic. High iron can introduce ferromagnetism to the picture."
What I am hunting for is a highly paramagnetic basalt that does not have a lot of iron
FunTimesIndeed
Member
Sounds cool...I never heard of that. Thanks!
B
bajangreen
I love you guys so i will share my soil mix, some day. For now all i will say is that the nearest grow store is a plane ride away. so i learnt this by trial and error, without ever going to a store (think about how hard that would be) that's why i rely more on "cause and effect" than "empirical evidence" both have their place and i am growing to appreciate the length of science you guys go to growing your weed.
My oldest soil is around 10 years old. doesn't grow MJ though. My oldest mj living soil is only 3+ years.
And i have learned allot coming to this forum, my output increased by about 10%. When i mix a batch for my new round i will take some pics for you guys.
The different perspectives are nice though. I would post my soil mix to see why it works so well but i know you guys wouldn't be to interested because you cant buy anything i use from a store, so i will just show pics of this round as it progress. should be mixing soon though.
My oldest soil is around 10 years old. doesn't grow MJ though. My oldest mj living soil is only 3+ years.
And i have learned allot coming to this forum, my output increased by about 10%. When i mix a batch for my new round i will take some pics for you guys.
The different perspectives are nice though. I would post my soil mix to see why it works so well but i know you guys wouldn't be to interested because you cant buy anything i use from a store, so i will just show pics of this round as it progress. should be mixing soon though.
B
BlueJayWay
You're missing a HUGE point to the thread then, sourcing local and free amendments/soil building material - we LOVE to hear about what someone is having success with and that it is FREE!
Share away dude
And props for keeping your soil 3+ years and going!
Yeah yeah! Tell us now!
Yes, binderdondat myself. Let's hear.
Dude..Post it up. Thats where I want to take my grows .... To a place where I spend as less as possible!!!
ziggestardust
Member
I agree, show the mix. Sounds real interesting!
It's pretty hard to diagnose plant problems on the net. But what the hell, eh? Deficiencies look just like toxities, and your left scratching your head wondering just what you have, i would not even try to guess exactly what you have. Blood meal is rather hot but goes away fast too. I like to use more plant based inputs nowadays and have not used blood meal for a few years. But if its deficiency or toxities viable earth worm casting should help. You can top dress them, make a slurry with water and mix the crap out of it, you want to break loose microbes so be kind of rough, or make and use ACT ( compost tea). The microbes from tea or compost will make available, or unlock if you will, nutrients in your soil for plants to use. Sometimes there are plenty of nutrients but there locked up for some reason. Good castings are like an organic cure all for sick plants. If you over amended your mix, and yours very well could be, microbes will nutrient cycle those inputs to be more gentle on your plants.
Next time you make a mix try using alfalfa meal for nitrogen instead of dried blood. I think you will like it much more, and it can be made into teas for drench feeding or diluted in foliar sprays' plus as a soil amendment. Come to think of it a alfalfa meal tea used foliar just might fix your problem too, if it's a true deficiency, but looking at what your working with my first guess would be toxities. Good luck bro.....scrappy
The New & Improved [ROLS MEGATHREAD]
The New & Improved [ROLS MEGATHREAD]
way to make things better and get things back on topic! thumbs up.
can you feel the love?
The New & Improved [ROLS MEGATHREAD]
way to make things better and get things back on topic! thumbs up.
can you feel the love?
hey OLDproLg!
i have done some composting fully contained and yes; your logic keeping the pile from leaching IS sound ~esp in a high drainage soil area like you ref
but for as long as i been organic gardening i have always just had a pile {2 actually} in my garden on the ground {of course; i AM going to garden there} i sift finished compost out of last years pile and throw what doesnt sift into this years
so i actually use that leaching effect to enrich the area i intend to grow in
here's a pix i took today just for you;
thats my strategy for the vegetable garden; out in the field; i am doing soil-building via ley rotations this area is planted to carrots and sugar beets since root crops are year 3 of the rotation, last year it was oats kinda like the grassy area upper right of center is seeded to barley this year {may have to re-assess it and it may need terminated again to re-seed to barley ~havent had much rain}
the formula is: legumes/grass grain/roots/cash crop {essentially the legume cycle is a fallow crop}
this pix is for you as well!
another i would like to try is ruth stout's no work method but i guess thats down the road
IDK; i just wanted to acknowledge that YES you are correct and I wanted to share some of the different things i employ besides that in a sort of 'more than 1 way to skin a cat' venture + this is a very different region from FL {being the most distant point of the country away} but my wife has family there and my son is there so i seen it
i guess i like to share too!
i have done some composting fully contained and yes; your logic keeping the pile from leaching IS sound ~esp in a high drainage soil area like you ref
but for as long as i been organic gardening i have always just had a pile {2 actually} in my garden on the ground {of course; i AM going to garden there} i sift finished compost out of last years pile and throw what doesnt sift into this years
so i actually use that leaching effect to enrich the area i intend to grow in
here's a pix i took today just for you;
thats my strategy for the vegetable garden; out in the field; i am doing soil-building via ley rotations this area is planted to carrots and sugar beets since root crops are year 3 of the rotation, last year it was oats kinda like the grassy area upper right of center is seeded to barley this year {may have to re-assess it and it may need terminated again to re-seed to barley ~havent had much rain}
the formula is: legumes/grass grain/roots/cash crop {essentially the legume cycle is a fallow crop}
this pix is for you as well!
another i would like to try is ruth stout's no work method but i guess thats down the road
IDK; i just wanted to acknowledge that YES you are correct and I wanted to share some of the different things i employ besides that in a sort of 'more than 1 way to skin a cat' venture + this is a very different region from FL {being the most distant point of the country away} but my wife has family there and my son is there so i seen it
i guess i like to share too!
look if your posts are gonna include attacks every few sentences you should not complain if they start getting deleted. you ask what you did, that is exactly it, your attacking other posters in this thread continuously and calling them out. how can you expect that situation to grow well?
thanks scrappy, its def not a deficiency, everything is dark green ,shiny , praying to jah, its just some plants are growing leaves out the top buds, maybe i had a light leak, ill work on a pic
https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=44891&pictureihttps:
the first two pics are the good and bad from this run
the first two pics are the good and bad from this run
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