isoprop
Active member
Cannazyme: I've got it
Do you suggest to add just Cannazyme with no N (BioVega)?
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Under or Over watering?
- Thread starter isoprop
- Start date
Do you suggest to add just Cannazyme with no N (BioVega)?
isoprop
Active member
Well with the humidifier on i've got 50% RH without it the RH drops to 32%...in veg i'd say it's too low
Well with the humidifier on i've got 50% RH without it the RH drops to 32%...in veg i'd say it's too low
Why are you asking for advice if you "know" the answer already anyway!?
RockstarsEarWax
Member
I would stick to a moderate to light feeding regime, say like maybe 2mL/G of vega A+B. I would also add around say maybe 6-8mL/G cannazyme. This will heavily introduce the "good" bacteria into the root zone to help start clearing up and eating the "bad" bacteria left behind from all of her dead roots. I would also mix up a batch of rhizotonic foliar spray at say around 8mL/G to RO WATER along with a few drops of dish soap to act as a surfectant. Only mix like 1L at a time to keep everything fresh. Heavily foliar feed with this when lights are out, like 5-7 times a night to help jump start the re-rooting process. Once the new roots have been established, you can back off the foliar feed down to around 2-4mL/G and only feed once a week with it, or as needed. At that point is when I would suggest putting the rhizotonic back into the nute mix for feeding. STOP USING THE TAP WATER!!! I strongly suggest using only RO water as does Canna. This will give you more control. The vega will act as a buffer for the nutes to bind to as the RO water will only have around 20ppm, there is nothing for the salts to bind to when running off. By using ANY tap water, you're constantly giving them a hard water mix of micro which they don't need as everything will be in your Canna nutes. Hence the lockout issues the pictures seem to depict. You need to continue to feed and water and create a consistent moisture level within the root zone. Drying out is Ok and actually a good thing but again you want to create more of a moisture "range." More importantly, check your runoff PH after every feed/water. It still seems as if they are out of range and they aren't able to take in any feed you have been trying to give them. That is why FOE20 was suggesting to start out with such acidic PH values for your nute mix, to bring your soil PH back down to an optimal/desired range. He was suggesting such a low starting PH to compromise for the amount of drying out that was to be expected. As the medium dries out, the PH is going to rise. I think by letting them dry out as much as you have been, the soil PH has been constantly climbing out of whack and by the time you feed or water them, everything needs to be readjusted again essentially. With a healthy, in range root zone, the PH of the run-off should almost exactly match the PH of the nute mix you're feeding with. This might be easier to check if you use a paper towel to soak up the run-off and then wring it out into a 1oz shot glass so you can take the PH test.
As for the humidifier, Strainhunter is correct by stating to just get rid of it, at least for the time being until your plants have recovered. You are correct ideal humidity levels during veg should be around 50%-70%, however, humidity is relative and the relative humidity level affects the transpiration rate of the plants stomata. When humidity is high, water evaporates slowly. The stomata close, transpiration slows, and so does overall plant growth. Water evaporates quickly in drier air causing stomata to open, increasing transpiration and growth. However, transpiration in arid environments will only be rapid if there is enough water available for the roots to draw in. If water is inadequate, stomata will close to protect the plant from dehydration, also causing the growth to slow.
As for the humidifier, Strainhunter is correct by stating to just get rid of it, at least for the time being until your plants have recovered. You are correct ideal humidity levels during veg should be around 50%-70%, however, humidity is relative and the relative humidity level affects the transpiration rate of the plants stomata. When humidity is high, water evaporates slowly. The stomata close, transpiration slows, and so does overall plant growth. Water evaporates quickly in drier air causing stomata to open, increasing transpiration and growth. However, transpiration in arid environments will only be rapid if there is enough water available for the roots to draw in. If water is inadequate, stomata will close to protect the plant from dehydration, also causing the growth to slow.
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We screwed up Iso....are you still using Rhizotonic?...stop using Rhiso at all...I bet your run off it still high because of it and the plant is back to the same form....
I think your only using a bit of pH buffer and really in distilled its so clean even then theres no real buffer...Plants look plenty green...still same pH prob..
def stop with any use of tap for now...just relax and lets try this again..their still alive and dont get mad..
just go back to basics..what did we do diff or what dont we know?...
We didnt know enough about the products..
Theres still nothin wrong with that Plant, or Kush...its just cant breathe easy yet...
your medium is responding to what were doing cause the medium is light and I'm guessing quite inert...So next time...keep pH lower in 5 range and no Rhizo at all...feed a lil less than you have been for now..so the roots jump lookin for more food and lets hope this time the pH stays in range longer for the plant to have proper reaction...
I agree with others who may be sayin we dont have to dry it out every time to reset...
We did do that and it had the reaction it should..so why now?...
cause were still doing the same thing by buffering the pH up by using Rhizo...heh....thats all...
What are all the products you have avail to use?....any micros or carbs, etc?
List them if you would and we can plan a better formula...keep at it brah
FOE20
I think your only using a bit of pH buffer and really in distilled its so clean even then theres no real buffer...Plants look plenty green...still same pH prob..
def stop with any use of tap for now...just relax and lets try this again..their still alive and dont get mad..
just go back to basics..what did we do diff or what dont we know?...
We didnt know enough about the products..
Theres still nothin wrong with that Plant, or Kush...its just cant breathe easy yet...
your medium is responding to what were doing cause the medium is light and I'm guessing quite inert...So next time...keep pH lower in 5 range and no Rhizo at all...feed a lil less than you have been for now..so the roots jump lookin for more food and lets hope this time the pH stays in range longer for the plant to have proper reaction...
I agree with others who may be sayin we dont have to dry it out every time to reset...
We did do that and it had the reaction it should..so why now?...
cause were still doing the same thing by buffering the pH up by using Rhizo...heh....thats all...
What are all the products you have avail to use?....any micros or carbs, etc?
List them if you would and we can plan a better formula...keep at it brah
FOE20
isoprop
Active member
I was just answering to an advice, he/she said to get rid of the humidifier while the plants still need it
Anyway pics update after a nice watering...Attachments
isoprop
Active member
Nope i stopped using them, RHizo and tap water. I watered them with just distilled water + a subtle amount of Biocanna Cannazym. (PH 5.0). Till now i just used Biocanna Rhizotonic, Biocanna Biovega, Biocanna Cannazym (used this just the last time i watered them)
I was just answering to an advice, he/she said to get rid of the humidifier while the plants still need it
You're not getting it bro...and that's why you're having the problems you're having.
Ppl here are taking their time to tell you how it's done...and instead of following their advice you are questioning and even opposing what you are being told & explained.
isoprop
Active member
Hi Strainhunter i listen to ANY advice and keep it in mind and i followed them with care. I'm not ignoring that and i will ever thank you for all your precious advices..i'm not questioning and opposing to them, i finded just little strange to get rid of the humidifier if doing that the RH values will drop to 32% but RockstarsEarWax explained me the reason why. I was just talking about it, not disapproving it...anyway i will follow your advice as soon as possible.
Personally I dont think the RH will have that much impact..although I pref a high amount in Veg between 55-75% RH....Only diff in my digs when its low is they dry out faster...
Iso my feel at this point is you dont have much goin on in the root bios to get things moving along...Yes there is enough N-P-K macros but what micros do you supply?.....Mycos and Zymes are not micro's...their what the Micros use to get around and breakdown the other elements...
Boron, Iron and the likes are needed for transport...
Carbs for breakdown and energy..what other products do you have avail in your line up...
But those subtle changes in room and all are only slight modifications..
The plants are not that bad off and were closer so just bare with it...By trying to change things or make bigger modifications will only add to the prob IMO...
So all I see is you have a inert mix..thats been out of range off and on and theres other elements missing for proper uptake...
Plants only need water, light and air....Lets keep it that simple for a few more bro...
Light is Food...and Air will help dry/wet cycles but you have to give it time to fix itself to...Sometimes it takes up to 2-3wks for a product to be utilized by a Plant..
Don;t expect immediate reactions cause it will always take a few days to a wk or more before you see improvement in most mediums beside Air or Water Root systems which have nutes promptly avail without going thru the normal chain of events needed to happen within a root bios..
What Im offering works for me in any situation and why I went into the details I have...
If we have all the required needs then we just need to suit the plants...
Im not against a higher RH...I just dont think it will matter as transpiration is usually needed more during rooting as the foliage will eat for the roots till they are developed..
At this stage we have a well developed plant forming...We just need to find its balance..
To me its not he room...its not the medium and its def not the strain...
whats left?....
FOE20
Iso my feel at this point is you dont have much goin on in the root bios to get things moving along...Yes there is enough N-P-K macros but what micros do you supply?.....Mycos and Zymes are not micro's...their what the Micros use to get around and breakdown the other elements...
Boron, Iron and the likes are needed for transport...
Carbs for breakdown and energy..what other products do you have avail in your line up...
But those subtle changes in room and all are only slight modifications..
The plants are not that bad off and were closer so just bare with it...By trying to change things or make bigger modifications will only add to the prob IMO...
So all I see is you have a inert mix..thats been out of range off and on and theres other elements missing for proper uptake...
Plants only need water, light and air....Lets keep it that simple for a few more bro...
Light is Food...and Air will help dry/wet cycles but you have to give it time to fix itself to...Sometimes it takes up to 2-3wks for a product to be utilized by a Plant..
Don;t expect immediate reactions cause it will always take a few days to a wk or more before you see improvement in most mediums beside Air or Water Root systems which have nutes promptly avail without going thru the normal chain of events needed to happen within a root bios..
What Im offering works for me in any situation and why I went into the details I have...
If we have all the required needs then we just need to suit the plants...
Im not against a higher RH...I just dont think it will matter as transpiration is usually needed more during rooting as the foliage will eat for the roots till they are developed..
At this stage we have a well developed plant forming...We just need to find its balance..
To me its not he room...its not the medium and its def not the strain...
whats left?....
FOE20
isoprop
Active member
Hi FOE20 thanks for your infinite knowledge and patience
In my line up i've got a product that contains the majority of micro's (copper,iron, manganese molybdenum, zinc) an got npk 6.6.6 (love this number ) but i never fed with this product cause it's a chemical fert and i would like to stick with the bio line i've got (biocanna). So do you suggest to water them with just distilled water, no feeds, no flushes for a bit, right? "To me its not he room...its not the medium and its def not the strain...whats left?.... " me, mate! maybe it's just me
pics updateEdit: switched to 12/12 this evening
Attachments
actually; turning off the humid may just help a little
you do continue to look over-watered here so; turning off the humid may not help as much as watering less but~
post #111 was likely quite helpful
btw a RH ~30% is pretty much 'normal' we have just found that certain plants do a little better @ higher humidity <key word being 'little'
you do continue to look over-watered here so; turning off the humid may not help as much as watering less but~
post #111 was likely quite helpful
btw a RH ~30% is pretty much 'normal' we have just found that certain plants do a little better @ higher humidity <key word being 'little'
isoprop
Active member
Hi and thanks! I've turned the humidifier off we'll see if there will be improvements..
water as normal. pick the pot up and feel its weight fully watered and remember what it felt like.
between then and next watering feel its weight as it drys out. do this every time you water and before you know it youll have the feel for it down.
very simple, FREE and works the very best IME.
40% ish RH flower.
50-60% is veg.
however, fluctuations within said areas are not top priority of worries.
between then and next watering feel its weight as it drys out. do this every time you water and before you know it youll have the feel for it down.
very simple, FREE and works the very best IME.
40% ish RH flower.
50-60% is veg.
however, fluctuations within said areas are not top priority of worries.
isoprop
Active member
Hi and thanks! I do all the thing you say in every grow and in the past i didnt have problems, i didnt change my approach to the plants...the only thing that changed was a wrong "tap water only" waterings, but now it's about a month that i use just distilled water.
isoprop
Active member
I agree, that's why i added a hum to the setup......
