Using old-growth forest soil as humus source in teas?

[CulturedHeathen]

I live in the beautiful, forested PNW and am in the hills several times a week. So... I have been collecting bagfuls of beautiful rich soil, usually from at least a foot below the surface. I know that I will get a bevy of responses recommending testing and scoping of the material but off the cuff, is this an acceptable source of humus for my AACT's? These soils have been collected from a mix of coniferous settings; mostly pine, fir and cedar. I am gradually making the shift from coco to biological and would like not to have to buy "soil" shipped from Alaska to use in my teas. Thanks for any responses!

 

[W89]

should be full of life higher forest humus is usually fungi dominated, I have added a little to my ACT I done 1/5th forest humus 2/5th worm castings from the garden 2/5th wormbin castings... diversity is key

 

[CT Guy]

Taking organic matter out of our forests is not a very sustainable solution from an environmental impact perspective, any more so than mining and shipping soil down from Alaska. You may also be introducing disease into your garden if you're not careful.

Much better to make your own compost or worm castings in my opinion. We don't want a bunch of pot growers rooting around our beautiful forests and destroying native habitat either....

 

[CulturedHeathen]

I totally agree... I do use home-spun compost and castings as well, and was thinking of adding very small amounts to up the diversity. I am talking about zip-lock baggies full in any case from very healthy, privately owned land. My concerns were mostly about pathogens. Does anybody know what process the "Alaska Humus" or other forest-sourced humates go through to ensure no harmful pathogens? I would assume that heat-sterilization or any other sterilization for that matter would be out of the question.

 

[bigshrimp]

The top most layer of the soil ( the horizon) is the most active. If you are looking for a decomposer innoculant for your worm bin or whatever it would be best to collect from that layer.

Anything farther down will have less biodiversity. Gather responsibly please.

 

[CulturedHeathen]

Thank you. This has not been a mining operation, nor will it be. More like a coffee mug and ziploc deal.

 

[RanchoDeluxe]

If you add it to a hot compost pile pathogens will start dying off at 131F. Weed seeds and fly larvae will die off at 143F. It's best to make a pile at least 3x3x3 to get the pile that hot. The proper C:N ratio of course.

 

[CulturedHeathen]

Indeed. I've got a large thermal-compost pile for my veggie garden. I will toss some of this in with the castings and blackstrap.

 

[SeaMaiden]

Taking organic matter out of our forests is not a very sustainable solution from an environmental impact perspective, any more so than mining and shipping soil down from Alaska.

Or making perlite! Or growing with electricity.... ruh roh.

 

[Microbeman]

Taking organic matter out of our forests is not a very sustainable solution from an environmental impact perspective, any more so than mining and shipping soil down from Alaska. You may also be introducing disease into your garden if you're not careful.

Or making perlite! Or growing with electricity.... ruh roh.

The other consideration, which has been raised by scientists, is the transplantation of organisms suited to another environment. In particular certain fungi.

 

[Ziggaro]

I've been mulling a compost pile for a while now but don't have much carbon to work with.
I was thinking about taking a few bags of leaves from the forest but I don't want to harm them. Is this a bad idea too?

 

[SeaMaiden]

You can use straw for compost, the yellow bedding straw. Last year I used straw bales set out the previous year as my pole bean planting area. This year, through winter, they've pretty much fallen apart (decomposed) and I now have a thin layer of organic material on top of the clay that had been scraped down when the house was built. You can use wood chips. you can use brown grass, you can use a lot of things to add C to your mix. Of course, the smaller they are the more quickly they'll decompose; EG the pile of woodchips I have used to make a planting area for squash. It's sunk a bit, but not much. I dig under and it's filled with all sorts of life, including lots of fungal/mold life. Same with the other pile that hasn't been spread out. The smaller bits have broken down into things unrecognizable, but for the most part it's all clearly still bits of wood.

I got the wood chips from the company that trims trees for PG&E around their transmission lines for free. It's a pain trying to get these guys to work with me, but free chips to smother weeds is awesomejuice.

 

[Microbeman]

I've been mulling a compost pile for a while now but don't have much carbon to work with.
I was thinking about taking a few bags of leaves from the forest but I don't want to harm them. Is this a bad idea too?

Deciduous leaves are good, Usually you can get freebies from people who rake their lawns.

 

[OrganicOzarks]

Some interesting points on this one. I would say give it a try, and see what happens.

It would be much easier to just use your home made compost, and some worm castings. Then you don't have to be concerned with pathogens, and such.

 

[CulturedHeathen]

Im there. Nothing but home-spun thermo compost and worm turds from here-out. Just set my first batch of AACT brewing. To 15g water I added: 1.5l castings, 250ml molasses and 125 ml kelp meal. Water started at .25 ec and 7.2ph. The airlift is providing 4 gallons/minute of circulation. It does not create a "vortex" due to the up-pipe in the can but there is heavy agitation/current and everything is being thoroughly mixed.
Thanks Microbeman and CT guy for the inspiration to make the switch to this style of growing. Only halfway through flowering and am experiencing plant health, resin and terpine production like I haven't experienced before. I expect on a purely "production" basis that my coco tables will outperform this style, however the quality is on a different level. This grow has the feeling of awe and wonder that my first did all of those years ago.

 

[ClackamasCootz]

There is an organic compost available in SE PDX made from organic fruit, leaves & branches and grass from Eastern Oregon. Certified organic by Oregon Tilth

Less than $20.00 for a half-yard (about 14 bags worth) - you pick it up.

 

[CulturedHeathen]

Here's the tea setup:
32g. Brute trashcan ($35 originally)
Eco Plus Professional 5 air pump ($60)
6ft 5/8" ID braided hose ($9)
1.25" PVC "T"
2x 90 elbows
45 elbow
1.25-3/4 FNPT Bushing ($15 for all PVC crap)
5/8"Barbed-3/4MNPT adapter
10' 1.25 thin-wall pvc

Total cost: $119

It seems to be doing a great job so far, however I have no way to check for signs of life to confirm. Soon enough.

 

[CulturedHeathen]

CC... Unfortunately I do not live in PDX anymore. No problems as I have Thermo and Worm compost cooking away as we speak and will be producing it en-masse from this point forward. I have access to several hundred lbs. of food waste per week from a local restaurant and many sources of manures and farming by-products to compost. It's a new day for Thurgood Jenkins!!!!

 

[ClackamasCootz]

Sounds like you've got things dialed in!

 

[CulturedHeathen]

I wouldn't say quite that. I'm getting the idea though. Don't know where I'd be without this site and all the experiences of it's users!