What's new
  • Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

browning pistils early?

Hello I grow for the first time and i would really appreciate some help.

A little feedback on my story:

Had 6 feminized seeds of which 2 were white widows, 3 critical, 1 fruit spirit.

I used 11lt pots + lst for the ww and 9lt pots for the rest + modular scrogs (concept by VerdantGreen).

Biobizz all mix soil mix and the complete nutrient series. Got them vegged for approx 8 weeks while took cuttings 2 times till week 6.

Then flower till today which is beginning of week 6.
Had a little high humidity issue at first 2 weeks of flowering during night but i got a dehumidifier so im ok now. Temp is good. Ph good.

Currently feeding with 1ml/lt Grow, 3ml/lt Bloom, 3ml/lt Alga-mic, 4ml/lt Heaven, 1ml/lt top-max as the newest feeding chart suggests

Now the problem

You can see from the pictures that there are plenty of brown pistils but i think its a bit early.

That is happening mainly to the ww and criticals Is this normal? I checked for hermies and the bagseed* especially but found nothing.

Also is this yellowing on leaves due to a deficiency?


picture.php

picture.php

picture.php

picture.php

picture.php




Thinks i found on the net - possible errors i made

1. small pots
2. pollination
3. humidity
4. heat
5. N deficiency


To much info for a newbie to digest
Could you help?





*In my grow room now
Total 15 plants (6 from seed, 7 clones from the second topping, 1 clone from first and 1 bag seed).
All the clones and bagseed are fine lots of crystals.
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
That what your plants should look like when there close to harvest. Looks like you stopped feeding them. I try to get my plants to change color the last 3 weeks of there life. They only get fed water for a min of 2 weeks before I harvest. I have had some plants that just wont yellow. As long as I know they have had a min of 2 weeks water I know they have used up all of the nutrients in the medium.

AS far as pistils. It could be pollination? no way to say with any degree of certainty. If everything else look fine no worries. The plant thats all yellow is dieing if your seeing the pistils turn on that plant this is normal.. That plant is done not mater what you have gone to far with the yellow leaves she will not recover from that. I would let her do what she does and harvest her when the trics are all cloudy. You could try to recover but I think there is to much loss for her to recover in good health. That looks like N deficiency to me.
 

hereigrow

Member
I had a similar issue...I found it was low humidity coupled with my fan blowing directly at my canopy caused the early brown pistils....other things that cause it would be pollination ...judging by your pics and you saying you had some humidity issues that's probably it. Check tour ph like hammerhead said they do look a little yellow for 6 weeks maybe locked out N...maybe good flush would help.live and learn good luck!!
 
That what your plants should look like when there close to harvest. Looks like you stopped feeding them. I try to get my plants to change color the last 3 weeks of there life. They only get fed water for a min of 2 weeks before I harvest. I have had some plants that just wont yellow. As long as I know they have had a min of 2 weeks water I know they have used up all of the nutrients in the medium.

AS far as pistils. It could be pollination? no way to say with any degree of certainty. If everything else look fine no worries. The plant thats all yellow is dieing if your seeing the pistils turn on that plant this is normal.. That plant is done not mater what you have gone to far with the yellow leaves she will not recover from that. I would let her do what she does and harvest her when the trics are all cloudy. You could try to recover but I think there is to much loss for her to recover in good health. That looks like N deficiency to me.

Thanks for your reply
This is really weird because i feed with nutrients every time and never stopped.
The really yellow one is the ww and the pistils on that are also turning brown but there aren't many crystals yet.
How could i try and recover? Adding 4ml/lt grow or something similar?
She is still at week 6. Is it possible to harvest in two weeks?
I mean should i use just plain because the trichromes will turn amber before flushing ends?r?
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
You need to provide all of the growing data you can. what kind nutrients , how much, how often, what kind of medium. She looks like you stopped feeding her or she's locked out and is not getting any food. You could do a flush then start back up with nutrient's. when Im that far into flower I use 2EC or 1000ppm.. You could get some Revive use it as a foliar spray on the leaves only see if there a improvement.
 
I had a similar issue...I found it was low humidity coupled with my fan blowing directly at my canopy caused the early brown pistils....other things that cause it would be pollination ...judging by your pics and you saying you had some humidity issues that's probably it. Check tour ph like hammerhead said they do look a little yellow for 6 weeks maybe locked out N...maybe good flush would help.live and learn good luck!!



Ok that blow me away
Bingo and Bingo!
I had the fan typhooning on them because i was afraid for mold (86%)and then i bought the dehumidifier (39%)and didn't change the setup
What did happen to that particular crop of yours hereigrow

Did soil ph test kit 10 mins ago it is around 6-6.5 not very accurate
Sould i flush? with water off what ph?
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I dont test pH for flushing. Your just trying to flush out the salt build up. Just pH the nutrients before you feed. I have 5 fans in a 10x12room. 3 wall fans,2 floor..You should never have the air so strong that it makes the plants move around to much. I have mine set for a slight intermittent movement across the canopy. To much air on the lady's can cause stress problems, Drys them out real quick..
 
You need to provide all of the growing data you can. what kind nutrients , how much, how often, what kind of medium. She looks like you stopped feeding her or she's locked out and is not getting any food. You could do a flush then start back up with nutrient's. when Im that far into flower I use 2EC or 1000ppm.. You could get some Revive use it as a foliar spray on the leaves only see if there a improvement.


Ok i understand that also my ph is off
I have algamic foliar . is this something similar?
Also what ph should my water for flush must have.
I was first making my water at ph 6-6.5 then add the nutrients.
hanks again
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
always ph after you add nutrients. The water you use to flush does not need to be adjuted for ph. Like I said you are only using it to wash the salts away..
After you mix up your nutients and adjust the ph should be 6.3-6.8 in soil. In coco or hydro systems the ph should be 5.5-6.1.. I let my ph swing in the proper range for soil..


picture.php
 

Talonted

Active member
I would suggest transplanting 10 days before their flowering transition. It looks like they are a bit root bound which seems to hasten their cycle from time to time. just a thought.

Mentioning that they are bag seed, also says that you will probably find a couple hermies and pollination does brown the tips as well

Im on the same feed as you only i dont use alga and i use 50/50 fish/grow instead of all of one type. You use the bio heaven at 4ml/l? you know that its about $8.00cdn to mix 5gals at a time when those 500ml bottles are $50.00cdn. I use 30ml per 5gal and they are healthy at almost 1/3 of the cost.

Cheers!
 

Talonted

Active member
always ph after you add nutrients. The water you use to flush does not need to be adjuted for ph. Like I said you are only using it to wash the salts away..
After you mix up your nutients and adjust the ph should be 6.3-6.8 in soil. In coco or hydro systems the ph should be 5.5-6.1.. I let my ph swing in the proper range for soil..


View Image

This is incorrect, With the Biobizz nutrients, it calls for you to pre adjust the PH to 7.0 before adding the regimen, and the ph adjusting happens with the feed chart he is using, once you add the food it goes from 7.0 to 6.5 for veg and into 6.3 - 6.0 for the flower cycle.
 
I should have bought the digital meter instead of the drops - i cant see clear color after adding the nutrients
I hope everything goes fine
thanks again
 

Talonted

Active member
During the flush i continue to keep the ph the same as it ends up after mixing your bio line which is around 6.0. Failing to ph causes unwanted stress in the rearing cycle which isn't what you want.

Every time i go to feed i ph to 7.0 which in a 5Gal jug its 1 teaspoon of Earth Juice Natural Up and then use the bio bizz food/chart and the ph goes right to where it is supposed to be for that point in the plants cycle
 

Talonted

Active member
I should have bought the digital meter instead of the drops - i cant see clear color after adding the nutrients
I hope everything goes fine
thanks again

you cannot ph water by strips with the biobizz nutes, food is too cloudy. PH before with just water and your Up, i let water sit 24hrs before cause i use city taps. I have a trimeter but either way ph before. it says to in the biobizz booklet with the chart
 
I would suggest transplanting 10 days before their flowering transition. It looks like they are a bit root bound which seems to hasten their cycle from time to time. just a thought.

Mentioning that they are bag seed, also says that you will probably find a couple hermies and pollination does brown the tips as well

Im on the same feed as you only i dont use alga and i use 50/50 fish/grow instead of all of one type. You use the bio heaven at 4ml/l? you know that its about $8.00cdn to mix 5gals at a time when those 500ml bottles are $50.00cdn. I use 30ml per 5gal and they are healthy at almost 1/3 of the cost.

Cheers!


actually only one was a basgseed the rest were from feminized seed bank.
I know heaven is f... expensive. i though i should follow the chart.
anyway another find is that the local growshop owner told me to first go to 5.5-6 then add the nutrients and Not 7 as you mentioned on your next post. any evidence to that to inform this excellent professional?:)
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
lol .. Let me be more clear. you should PH after you have mixed up your nutrients except if your using that brand of nutrients.. If I add nutrients to my water it will drop it to 5 I have to adjust after I add the nutrients to the water adjust the pH as needed. this is true for the majority of all nutrients you use. Most of the nutrients I have used are ACIDIC. Doesn't matter what your water is before you add your nutrient's it will change it to a lower value then what it was unless your tap water is 5.. It will not have a effect effect if you do it like I suggested. . IMO thats a big mistake to PH your water before adding the nutrients. This would require you to PH the food 2x. I dont care what the ph of the water is from the tap. The nutrients will change it I guarantee you that. Adjusting the pH after all the Nutrients have been added is the most used practice. If I adjust PH before I add the nutrient's the PH will be way off you will be feeding very acid food. You would need to PH the nutrients again if done like that. I have used numerous diferant vendors they all are acidic.. If your doing Organics None of this matters.

I feed by EC OR PPM not by PH. I do not follow the direction on the bottles. The mix would always come out way to hot for my liking.

I mix up my 30g res to 2ec@6.3-6.8 for flower.. I use Pure Blend Pro bloom and some tea's.....I use to use other crap. I have stopped Since going Organic. I never have the same pH mix in a row. Monday its 6.3 Wednesday its 6.5 Friday it's 6.8...I start back @ 6.3 the next week.
 
Last edited:

Grow Tech

I've got a stalk of sinsemilla growing in my back
Veteran
Not saying its your problem but prematurely browning pistils is one of the symptoms of broad mites. I have a thread in the sticky section of the infirmary
 

NogIn

New member
Brown pistils? Means it's ready to harvest, or nearly ready, depending on how many of the pistils are brown.
When half to 3/4 of the pistils are brown, pull it.
 
Top