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HL45.PPK.1.0 17lightsx2 Sealed with Co2
- Thread starter high life 45
- Start date
ashesashes
Member
Unasked for advice: Flip ASAP.
I've never known a SourD not to run on you a bit, and you'll need to manage your canopy to keep it around 4' tall unless you stack your bulbs.
A six on the bottom (where the limbs will naturally be closer, a 1 K above, and a six between in an adjustawing would be sick. Or a 6,6 stack with the 1 K overhead.)
I'm a huge fan of over-under lighting. Mostly because of the plants you've shown off...
But really: Who cares. You should experiment, adjust and modify.
Cary on.
I flipped this geno at just over 24". This is an end-of-the-row plant that gives you the sense of some of the training I've been dealing with with a runny sativa dom. Just trying to bring the canopy into the area of a 1K:
Left to her own devices, she'd take a hammer to the ceiling, and the roof and take on Jack's Beanstalk.
I have some of the primary leads trained three quarters of the way back down to the root mass.
Flip 'em ASAP.
That's what I say.
Much respect - loving the thread.. 
repeating images because I can get them out of my head...
repeating images because I can get them out of my head...
d
repeating images because I can get them out of my head...
d
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ashesashes
Member
There are--apparently--studies in tomato productivity that show that both under-planted and overcrowded gardens suffer from loss in productivity.
I'm worried that you are going to have way too much plant by giving your sourDs another two weeks of veg. Topping/tipping and some defoliation (although in my experience, there aren't enough leaves on sourD to really effect the canopy structure) may keep them compact enough for you to keep your canopy managed. I would expect them to push harder in a PPK than in hand watering.
Keep an eye on 'em. Too big of plants is a better problem than too small, but it still is a problem.
Best of luck.
Look forward to the photos.
I'm worried that you are going to have way too much plant by giving your sourDs another two weeks of veg. Topping/tipping and some defoliation (although in my experience, there aren't enough leaves on sourD to really effect the canopy structure) may keep them compact enough for you to keep your canopy managed. I would expect them to push harder in a PPK than in hand watering.
Keep an eye on 'em. Too big of plants is a better problem than too small, but it still is a problem.
Best of luck.
Look forward to the photos.
harvested the other sour d today.
harvested the other sour d today.
..
harvested the other sour d today.
..
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D
DHF
Most all of the research I did back in the day for growin dope was based on "mater" nutrient requirements cuz they`re so similar in plant needs as far as clearin out sucker branches off the main laterals to concentrate fruit production from the strongest parts of the plant with waaaaay similar juice needs....so....
As Ashes` states.......It`s about canopy development , but dialing the fine line between too much plant matter for lumen penetration causing less than favorable results after stretch and thru swellage , come end of cycle.....
Over here on my bucket......DHF....
.....
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I would pull out my light meter, put on my level #5 shades and check out the light spread. For real, get one.
i like this one better but bobble is right about the meter. i can't imagine growing without one now.
you don't need a licor research grade meter to do relative checks around your growroom. i use a cheap specmeter. it is not research grade but neither am i.
it is designed to perform fairly accurate hand checks in a greenhouse and will do fine for that.
a decent fc meter is ok for this type of work too.
Light meter it is! I know it has been mentioned before... can you recommend some models? I am willing to spend a few bucks.
http://www.specmeters.com/brands/lightscout/quantum-meters/
hl, the 200 dollar one is fine unless you are doing research. then a licor or an apogee for 1000 plus.
as these are designed for greenhouse use they only read up to 2k umols, which is also the saturation point with cannabis. beyond this and you get photoinhibition anyway so it's all you need.
i try to keep the closest part of the plant a little over the maximum rate of photosynthesis point of 1500 umols, say 16-1800 umols. this is a little more light than that part of the plant can use but it won't cause damage and gets a little higher flow to more of the plant mass.
a foot candle meter will also work ok for relative intensity checks. 1500 umols roughly corresponds to 7500 fc.
we buy meters first for nutrient and ph management while light management is far more critical to yield.
that niteshade is cool lookin' stuff!
hl, the 200 dollar one is fine unless you are doing research. then a licor or an apogee for 1000 plus.
as these are designed for greenhouse use they only read up to 2k umols, which is also the saturation point with cannabis. beyond this and you get photoinhibition anyway so it's all you need.
i try to keep the closest part of the plant a little over the maximum rate of photosynthesis point of 1500 umols, say 16-1800 umols. this is a little more light than that part of the plant can use but it won't cause damage and gets a little higher flow to more of the plant mass.
a foot candle meter will also work ok for relative intensity checks. 1500 umols roughly corresponds to 7500 fc.
we buy meters first for nutrient and ph management while light management is far more critical to yield.
that niteshade is cool lookin' stuff!
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Best of luck.
