ozone ionizers uvc lights for mold or bugs?

[smog]

does ozone kill bugs or pm or soil molds?
are ionizers the same as ozone machines i keep hearing they put out ozone and are just as bad to health?
how about uvc lights for mold in air and for water purifacation? before adding nutes cause they do mess with chem nutes i have a small fish tank uv system.
im useing coco im in a old moldy house that has had a leaky roof once the mold may be from the tap too it started with cloneing in coco and it kills or makes sick seadlings and clones. it is white ,fine,and fuzzy,dont turn grey or green ive tried sm90,cinnomon,peroxide,neem, letting dry out... when you water it appears to be gone then the next day comes up again, it speads to other pots nearby i tried lcmix soil too and it eventually started in that to but not as much

 

[Weedninja]

An ionizer is not the the same as an ozone generator, and it won't kill fungus spores. It will take odor out of the air and that's about it.

You'll never be able to completely sterilize your grow room, so your best bet is to try to make your grow room a worse environment for fungi to grow by dehumidifying the air and adding beneficial bacteria to your coco.

For clones and seedlings, I recommend a good fungicide like Captan.

 

[*mr.mike*]

A good ionizer will take spores out of the air. Usually, they are coupled with a blower, and a (crappy) filter, but they'll do that much. Don't get the kind that claims to make ozone, you don't need ozone. An electrostatic cleaner and ionizer is definitely efficient at taking spores out of the air.

If you're really going to go all out, periodically take everything out of your room, then use an ozone generator to full out "ozonate" the place, and after that's done, borrow a HEPA filter vacuum to go over the place. Then go back to a regular negative ionizer and electrostatic cleaner. As far as mold goes, you'll get results

 

[Weird]

at proper PPM to your intake mold will be eradicated and pest non existent

http://www.uvonair.com/

been using the same uvonair bazookas for over 15 years changed the bulbs once

be careful good ozone generators are strong and you can strip the smell off your plants and even bleach them at high enough concentrations

 

[Guest2012z]

only ozonators will kill mold spores and remove smell; check out www.AIR-ZONE.com usa where i bought my portable years ago with a remote and timer so your outside the sealed growroom to turn on, change settings, timer and turn off.

if you dont know the truth dont post as it gives benefical equipment a bad reputation. go to a mall first thing in the a.m. and you will smell what an ozone generator can do.

an ionier only masks the smells by removing negative ions while the O/G takes all. dont use swimming pool ozone gens unless your hydro.

ever got into a new car/truck; that an O/G at work

 

[smog]

i got 2 uv-c going,i learned they only kill 70%. i also ordered a small holmes hepa with ionizer i had one before and it seemed to put out allot of ozone so i thought. im gonna get a 03 gen also and need something to water in the soil and coco to kill this stuff how about bleach or stonger peroxide at 3mil it turns the lucas mix clear or maybe eagle 20

 

[smog]

and i wanted to know if these kill or prevent pm because ive only done seeds and havent found nothin to good. the clubs i go to got pk clones but im scard of em and even haveing there finished stuff around. i have read that pm lives in the plant and that all elites will have to be treated every grow is this true? my friend did clone only bc purps and afgooey for 3 years with no proublems,the purps was awsome, paranoia got the best of him one night and they got thrown away

 

[slshemup]

there is a product called actinovate thats a biorganic fungicide its cheap and highly recommended.luckily its available in the US,Canada and alot of Euro country's.not so lucky if in Australia it's yet to be released here.if moneys not an issue for water quality a reverse osmosis unit with combined uv sterilizer will clean problem water, otherwise on the cheap for bad water you can use monochloramine it is used as a drinking water disinfectant.also with any product chemical or organic allways research,read product directions,usage and safety data to make sure it suits how you grow prior to use.

 

[smog]

thanks i gotta learn more on the act stuff its a tent grow in my room so i got to be carfull even of organic products, locally i found soluable sulfer powder and copper juice,my tap water does like to grow slime mold if left out a week like a dwc h202 made it worse, i got a cheap ebay ro and boiled the water it worked some,if i tried again i would try a fish air pump o3 device any threads on useing these for hydro?

 

[NorCalZero]

From what I understand, ionizers just balance your positive and negative ions in the air and that helps neutralize odor. Most of the time you find them coupled with hepa filters, I came across a sharper image ionic breeze for free so I am trying it out in a 3x6ft. room with no carbon filter and you can't really smell anything 3 weeks into flower, it only uses 9 watts of power and is dead silent running 24/7 (wanted to add those last facts in relation to the next paragraph).

From wikipedia "Consumer Reports, a non-profit U.S.-based product-testing magazine, reported in October 2003 that air ionisers do not perform to high enough standards compared to conventional HEPA filters. The exception was a combination unit that used a fan to move air while ionizing it. In response to this report, The Sharper Image, a manufacturer of air ionisers (among other products), sued Consumer's Union (the publishers of Consumer Reports) for product defamation. Consumer Reports gave the Ionic Breeze and other popular units a "fail" because they have a low Clean Air Delivery Rate (CADR). CADR measures the amount of filtered air circulated during a short period of time, and was originally designed to rate media-based air cleaners. The Sharper Image claimed that this test was a poor way to rate the Ionic Breeze, since it does not take into account other features, such as 24-hour a day continuous cleaning, ease of maintenance, and silent operation. The U.S. District Court for the Northern District of California subsequently struck down The Sharper Image's complaint and dismissed the case, reasoning that The Sharper Image had failed to demonstrate that it could prove any of the statements made by Consumer Reports were false. The Court's final ruling in May 2005 ordered The Sharper Image to pay US$ 525,000 for Consumer Union's legal expenses."

I find the above paragraph a bit misleading since ionizers are usually combined with hepa filters, and if you use it in a grow room you would have a fan running which would circulate more air through the ionizer so no need for a combination unit. You might try adding a layer of hydroton to the top of the coco so the light/heat/fan will not hit the coco directly, thereby decreasing humidity. And wiping down your entire room and the outside of pots with a disinfectant wipe on a regular basis couldn't hurt.

 

[RespectGreen]

I use A uv-80H to sterilize my intake air..... Idk about ppms, or mg/hr I wish I did??

What I did was take a dust shroom, and put that at the end of my intake...

So at first it travels through, then through a damper, and then through the UV air, through another damper, and in to my room..... The dampers only open up when my exhaust is on.... My exhaust is a 10" vortex...

 

[smog]

anyone now if theres a powder source for a hydrogaurd like product? i used a myco product once in coco gh and it bloomed green mold then i noticed it had trichoderma spores, you dont want those indoors,i think strong garlic and cinnomon oil would kill mold or root rot but also kill the good fungus. i ordered actinovate to test, need to learn if it will kill bennies

 

[*mr.mike*]

As far as the electrostatic air cleaner and spores goes, "Significant reductions in the number of mold colonies were observed when the air cleaner was operated alone..."
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/3631655

I've been in labs where ionizers were used, apparently to some degree of efficacy...

 

[smog]

one could use carbon filters on intake too, dust out smell in, still looking for a hydrogaurd replacement

 

[smog]

ok the actinovate did nothing, 1 mil bleach made more grow, i took pics i also grew a bunch of freebies and sum had blistering all over them, now all my seedlings got all the tmv traits i know of and i have these specks that look like thrips but no bugs i will keep looking for bugs though... i got some pics in my album and i got some aquashield but wana no more about it. says composted poultry litter. yuk. how does that protect

 

[smog]

 

[smog]

 

[smog]

theres more pics but im haveing a hard time posting pics it says just click and drag but that makes a big photo and the reply dissapears and the window has no back button its one of those windows that has no tab, a pop up i guess

 

[smog]

i do pretreat with mosquito bits, had to switch to rooters they dont get this mold till there in the coco the mold on them may be different and looks to go up the stems. i have not noticed any stem rot even on the dead coco clones, they just turn yellow fast then leaves fall off and die
and i cant see these white dots with my eyes

 

[Rusty Trichome]

This is from part of a series I've been assembling...but I think my be appropriate here.

Among the most common pests, are the molds and fungus'. They are on every surface in the world, and in every square meter of air. You can never erradicate it entirely, but you CAN make their time with your garden, a living hell.

When spraying the plants, spray the tops, the undersides and the branches. A shot or two at the soil usually doesn't hurt, either. You'll possibly have to move the plants to avoid spraying the hot bulb or bulb ebclosure, or raise the light out of harms way. But do not spray a cold liquid on a 500 degree glass surface.

Do not foliar feed or spray the last 30 days of flowering. Moisture caught in the buds can promote molds and ruining months of work. If you MUST foliar feed or spray, do so in the mornings, so the moisture has a chance to evaporate throughout the day. It's best to restrict foliar feedings to the vegetative cycle through early flowering.

If you leave the plants in place for mold remedy sprays, always protect (raise) the lights when performing treatments that include wetting the leaves. This keeps the spray away from the reflector glass (which can break wit hthe sudden change in temperature) and helps prevent any heat issue as the treatment is absorbing, settling, drying. After treatments, make sure there is no residue left on the leaves that will clog the leaf pores (the stoma) or block photosynthesis. Gently rinse 'em off if necessary, but don't create a condition that warrants more treatments. Once leaf surface is dry, return the lights to their normal position.

Keep in mind there are other treatments available for indoors, and a few more for outdoors. Those listed below are seemingly the most-common indoor molds, and their most effective remedies. Proper identification and using the proper remedy, can make the difference between mold being a minor inconvienence, and having a traumatic crop failure.

Gray/Brown Mold & Bud Rot - botrytis cinerea ans botryotinia fuckeliana:
Prefers high moisture, low ph, and lower temperatures. An under-ventilated, overly-humid grow room provides ideal growing conditions for the attack, and these molds are among the sources of the damping-off of seedlings.
Thick buds tend to trap and hold moisture, making them very good hosts for the fungi. Both of these molds will result in tremendous loss of yield, as the fungi releases enzymes that dissolve organic tissue (leaves) to aid in the fungi's uptake of the plant's nutrients. But some of the infections can occur below the canopy in the darker underbrush, where airflow is restricted.
Dispersed by wind, not water, unlike most fungi.

Fusariums
F. solani - causes foot and root rot. Found primarily in the tropics, and less-so in temperate regions. It enters root injuries caused by nematodes, plant stakes. Overwinters in soils as spores. It's potentially hazardous to those coming in contact with infected plants. Possible eye irritation and respritory distress if spores are inhaled.

F. Oxysporum - This Fusarium causes Fusarium wilt. Once it enters the plant, it plugs the water-transport tissue, creates a toxin, and causes the wilting often seen with Fusarium infections. All Fusarium species prefer the warmer temperatures and damp conditions, but can not exist in saturated soils.
Images showing Fusariums
Back in the 1970's and 1980's, officials in the USA considered releasing this strain to combat illegal marijuana grows. An especially virulent strain of the disease was let-loose in a test field by a Dept. of Agriculture scientist. It killed the cannabis plants, and over-wintered in the soil, killing seedlings that next spring.

Macophomina Phaseoll
Besides causing damping-off, this disease also causes charcoal rot. (usually in older cannabis plants) It's a rugged mycelliu, m that overwinters in the soil, and can survive extreme temperatures and conditions. When conditions improve, the spores germinate.


Pythiums
There are thousands of species of Pythiums, and Pythiums are different than other fungi. Technical, but they have no septa. (cell walls) What this means is, that the mycellium does not divide into individual cells. There are two types of Pythium spores...
Zoospores - zoospores are produced in round, sack-like structures on the mycellia (fiberous structure of the fungi) Once mature, they burst, they swim for a short time using their little 'tails' for propultion, then they settle and grow into a structure called the germ tube. This structure penetrates either the seed-coat, or young/damages stem tissue, and begins the process all over.
Oospores - oospores are the second kind of Pythium spore produced, and are considered the overwintering structure of the fungi. They also develop in a sack-like structure, and can either be released when mature, or wait for more favorable conditions.

Pythium Ultimum - This fungus attacks both seedlings and mature cannabis plants in temperate regions. Prefers cooler temperatures (54 degrees f. to 68 degrees f.)
In adult plants, this fungi causes root rot at the root tip. The plant will not die immediately, but will wilt and die due to lack of ability to uptake water and nutrients.


Rhizoctonia Solani - This fungi tends to damage seedlings later than Pythium. Can devastate a seedling tray pre-emergence and post-emergence. Of the fungi that causes damping off, Rhizoctonia Solani is the only one that does NOT require ecxcessive moisture for reproduction. There is a test to determine if this is in your soil. (ELISA test)


Controlling Damping Off and Fungal Infections
The two most important controls for damping off, are also basic rules for good greenhouse maintenance. Plus, careful watering and sterile soils.

Of special importance, is to avoid overwatering, provide adequate air circulation, use fresh (preferably sterile) soil, avoid using seeds that have been infected. Some gardeners ammend the soil with a silica product, which aids in developing the plants natural fungicidalqualities. Plants use available silica to help strengthen cell walls, making them resistant to fungal infections.
Images of damping off.


If you already have an issue, there are several methods of treatment/eradication.
There are more recipe's available, (especially for outdoors) but these are a great start for the indoor gardener.

Chamomile Tea is also effective in preventing damping off. (high sulfur content)
Brew a weak batch of chamomile tea, one tea bag to two cups of boiling water. Allow the infusion to cool, then dilute it so that it is a pale yellowish color. Add the cooled, diluted tea to a spray bottle and use as needed. This mixture will be good for about a week. Spray the seedlings regularly until they are transplanted, to ensure that you don't have any problems with damping off.

Compost Teas can also be effective for the control of fungus by introducing beneficial bacteria, provides nutrients that can help a plant protect itself from pathogens and increases vigor and growth.
There are many commercial preparations and formula's nad many recipe's available online. But compost teas should be used fresh, and preferably within hours of being prepared. Maintain the aerobic properties by keeping the mix well aerated during the process. The tea should be dark brown, and not smell sour. If the tea smells of ammonia or smell rotten, discard. It has become anaerobic, and potentially hazardous. (e-colli, salmonella...)


Milk is also effective against powdery mold, but scientists are still unable to determine why.
Milk spray can be made from 2%, whole, or skim. Effective at a 1:9 ratio (1 part milk : 9 parts water) but the ratio is effective up to about a 1:3 ratio. (30% milk) A solution of 30% of milk or greater, and a benign mold will form on the tops of the leaves.

Neem Oil is an all-purpose natural pesticide. It works on arthropods, and provides protection from fungal and bacterial diseases, (including gray mold) and can be used prophyllactically against powdery mildew, preventing spores from germinating. Neem oil must be used with dishsoap per the instructions. It can be sprayed directly on the plant(s), or if there's a risk of 'blowing' the spores with the spray, (infecting other plants) it can be painted on both sides of all leaves and stems. (or both)


Mycorrhiza is a term used to describe the root in combination with fungus. The literal translation is Fungus (myco) roots. (rhizo) The fungi that forms mycorrhizae, are called mycorrhizal fungi.
Some fungi like powdery mold or gray mold are destructive. Some are beneficial.

Micorrhizal fungi can be found naturally in soils high in compost, but inoculants such as Bountea Root Web, MycoGrow or Great White...or similar, are available to help kick-start the growth of these beneficials in your soil.
These fungi attach themselves to the roots and feed off of the plant's carbohydrates. In return, the fungi breaks-down nitrogen, phosphorous, copper, calcium, magnesium, zinc and iron...into a usable form the plant itself can uptake.

There are generally two types of micorrhizal fungi. Ectomycorrhizal, which are grown on hardwood and connifer trees are of no use to the cannabis gardener. Endomycorrhizal fungi are grown with vegetables, and are the strain used for cannabis.
Best used at the beginning of the growing season, to help establish a thriving colony. Often a second application is used during the growing season. These fungi take time to establish, so adding them to the flowering plant, is likely adding little benefit.
Make sure to get the proper strain.


PhUp is a generic term for ph adjusters that raise water ph for indoor gardens. Available in liquid or powder, it's use as a foliar spray will raise the ph ON the leaf and branch surfaces. Use PhUp to adjust water to 8.0 ph. This makes it inhospitable to fungi, and stops it's growth. Can also be used on critically-infected plants.

Seaweed contains natural enzymes and hormones that are plant bio-stimulants, and also a wide range of micronutrients. This helps to stimulate seedlings and clones while reducing damping-off. Available in liquid or powder.

Sesame Seed Oil has both, fungicidal and insecticidal properties. It smothers insects by clogging thier spiracles. (they smother) Sesame Oil also creates an unfavorable enviornment for fungi.
1 tsp sesame oil
1 pint water
1/8 tsp lecithin
1 tsp surfactant or wetting agent. (dishsoap)
Also available in commercial preperations.

Silica Salts increase the plants response to attack and disease, and increases the plant's stamina. Helps with bud rot and fungal infections.
Silica is not recognized as essential for plant development, but when available the plant 'parks' the silica in cell walls and inbetween cells to form a protective sheaths, as a barrier against fungal and insect attacks. (a 'toughening agent')
Common sources of silica, are:
Diatomaceous earth
Greensand
Perlite
Potassium silicate
Pyrophyllite clay
Silica stone (a hydro medium)
Vermiculite
Zeolite.
(I purchased a commercial silica blend (Silica Blast) and it was 11.0 ph out of the bottle...so use care)


Sulfur is likely the oldest-known pesticide/fungicide still in use today. Kills pathogens, insects and mites. It is a 'contact' pseticide, so sprays or vapors are acceptable methods of application. Using sulfur lowers the ph making the enviornment on the leaves inhospitable.
Use care when using sulfur sprays, as it can damage leaf tissue. Try it out on a coupe of leaves, before using it on the entire plant.
Sulfur burners are available at some nurseries, or on the internet...and are fairly cheap. The burner creates a sulfur vapor that lightly coats the surfaces with a fine film.
Do not use with oils, and never when the temps are over 85 degrees f.
But it stinks. It stinks bad. You'll want to ventilate the room well after application.

Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda) is an effective fungicide, because it raises the leaf-surface ph. preventing fungal growth.

1 tsp baking soda
1 drop dishsoap (or surfactant)
1 pint water
Mix well, put in a spray bottle, and let her rip.
Potassium bicarbonate works the same way, But is said to stunt the pistils.
But sodium bicarbonate leaves residue when it breaks down. Bad for soils, eventually.



UVC Light is considered deadly to life. It kills sopores and tissues of most fungal pathogens. It is usually used in three ways.
Water sterilizers utilize UVC light to kill water-borne pathogens before they reach your grow area. Very helpful in hydro systems.
Placing a UVC light fixture inside of the air intake will kill airborne pathogens before they reach the grow space.
Hand held wands or automated systems hit the plants once or twice a day, with a couple of seconds of UVC light, killing-off the pathogens and preventing infections.
Only one company manufactures a UVC light system for indoor growers, and that's Aeon UVC Systems.

Vinegar is an acid, and is toxic to powdery mildew. One tablespoon per quart as a foliar spray lowers the leaf surface ph, killing the spores. Apple cider vinegar works fine for this.
You can also alternate between High ph preparations and low ph preparations...for better results.


As with any additive or treatment...don't fix what isn't there to be fixed. Know what you are treating and why. Repeat if condition warrants, but at the same time watch for damage YOU'RE doing with the treatment(s).

For much more information than posted here, please consult the primary source of this post:
Marijuana - Pest & Disease Control. How to protect your plants and win back your garden.
Ed Rosenthal, 2012​