Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

[inreplyavalon]

There is a new Bayer that is for fruits and veggies. It does have imid.

http://www.bayeradvanced.com/insects-pests/products/fruit-citrus-vegetable-insect-control/sizes

Look at the label and magnify it to see ingredients. All Bayer products are listed here.

Ok i see now that the Bayer you link is for fruits and vegetables. Thanks for sharing that.
The problem is on the previous page you show a picture of the Soil and Turf "Bayer Complete" formula and say its for fruits and veggies. It is listed for soil and turf. Maybe you want to swap out the picture for the product you link in the qoute above. Just to keep the misinformation to a minimum.

 

[takkada]

homemade remidy

homemade remidy

aphids can be killed with a crazy sounding solution . 1 small onion chopped fine , 2 medium cloves of garlic chopped fine , 1tbsp of liguid dish soap , 2 cups warm water . blend in blender , strain pulp apply with spray bottle untill run off. crazy but you can water siol to kill larva in siol . good luck, peace

 

[RetroGrow]

Ok i see now that the Bayer you link is for fruits and vegetables. Thanks for sharing that.
The problem is on the previous page you show a picture of the Soil and Turf "Bayer Complete" formula and say its for fruits and veggies. It is listed for soil and turf. Maybe you want to swap out the picture for the product you link in the qoute above. Just to keep the misinformation to a minimum.

They changed their labels and formulations.The older Bayer Advanced Complete is for fruits and veggies, as you would know if you read the label on the bottle. It is several pages long, and lists the length of time before harvest that it can be used on various crops. Ranges between 7-21 days. Unfortunately, cannabis is not one of the crops listed. But if it is safe to use on food products that close to harvest, it is pretty safe. The main difference between Bayer products is the concentration of imidcloprid. Of course, it can always be diluted from the stronger formulations, but personally I prefer to use the one that's ready to use safely right out of the bottle. Note also that there can be different formulations in different countries, ie, Canada for example.

Note: That is the "old" Bayer Advanced Complete. It is approved for fruits & veggies, as stated. I didn't show anything about "soil & turf".

 

[Storm Shadow]

This stuff kicks ass

http://www.growercentral.com/index....n=showFamilyDetails&CFID=4982355&CFTOKEN=6886

Movento 240 SC is a two-way systemic foliar insecticide for the control of a broad range of sucking insect pests in apples, grapes and a number of vegetable crops. Movento 240 SC works by inhibiting the insect's ability to produce lipids, resulting in symptoms of poisoning and subsequent death following exposure. Movento 240 SC provides excellent, long-term control of immature and adult female stages of aphids, various species of scale, mealybugs and Phylloxera. Following a foliar application, Movento 240 SC rapidly moves into leaf vascular tissue and is carried up and down the plant system to protect leaf and root tissue. Movento's residual activity continues to protect new plant growth. PCP#: 28953
Active Ingredient
spirotetramat (Tetronic acid derivatives)
Group 23 Insecticide

 

[puff adder]

I found another brand of Imidicloprid, called "ANNUAL Tree and Shrub". Annual brand has just the Imid at 1.47% (the same amount as the old Bayer formula, the new Bayer formula has only half that and another contact killer) and also doesn't contain the extra nutes that the Bayer Tree and Shrub had. Just the Imid, nothing else, works great.

 

[takkada]

To clean a room, I use Physan, but be careful if you use it, as it is nasty stuff, and you should use goggles and gloves.

look up mold state , hit the room with it , then floramite , also good to hit intake , and spray area outside room along walls and intake if possible , good luck this works for me.im a coffee drinker , i water my left over coffee in veg and ive never had aphids stick around , haven't seen these bastards in long time.

 

[FatBlunt420]

takkada, left over coffee??? really. i have never heard of this.

ive been working hard. getting everything prepped. i just got new cloner inserts. azatrol and since they didnt have physan at my shop, i grabbed bio green clean.

the aphid rippen veg is gone. now im just making sure the clean clones are going into a completely clean area and they stay clean. now il be popping up and cleaning out the tent. then ill take the time to clean the equipment. ill run a 600w bare bulb when everything is ready.. ill start in the cloner with t-5s over it. once everything is clean, ill hang the lights and bug bomb the tent before anything goes in.

this is my best opportunity to beat these things. and i have to do it right.

 

[Critter]

You blend a tblsp of dish soap and your gonna have bubbles weeeee!!

After cleaning and starting new i use exciter in a spray bottle as preventative and a knockdown contact killer for stray fliers. These things are all over outside here fn bastards!

 

[FatBlunt420]

i have the tent and equipment clean. i went the extra mile and soaked everything that was coming to the new spot in bleach water. i cant even let one egg carry to the new veg.
im done with the old spot and took a shower to be safe...now ill be bug bombing the tent and equipment.
one question i have is. (i know you can water with azamax) is it safe to throw alittle in the cloner as a precaution?? and if so, how much??

 

[RetroGrow]

i have the tent and equipment clean. i went the extra mile and soaked everything that was coming to the new spot in bleach water. i cant even let one egg carry to the new veg.
im done with the old spot and took a shower to be safe...now ill be bug bombing the tent and equipment.
one question i have is. (i know you can water with azamax) is it safe to throw alittle in the cloner as a precaution?? and if so, how much??

Dump the cloner, bro. Clone in straight coco, get huge plants right out of the box. Seriously, this is the best cloning method, as there is no transplant, and the clones take off immediately in their cups when fed after roots show. Best starts I have ever had, by far.

 

[inreplyavalon]

They changed their labels and formulations.The older Bayer Advanced Complete is for fruits and veggies, as you would know if you read the label on the bottle. It is several pages long, and lists the length of time before harvest that it can be used on various crops. Ranges between 7-21 days. Unfortunately, cannabis is not one of the crops listed. But if it is safe to use on food products that close to harvest, it is pretty safe. The main difference between Bayer products is the concentration of imidcloprid. Of course, it can always be diluted from the stronger formulations, but personally I prefer to use the one that's ready to use safely right out of the bottle. Note also that there can be different formulations in different countries, ie, Canada for example.

View Image

Note: That is the "old" Bayer Advanced Complete. It is approved for fruits & veggies, as stated. I didn't show anything about "soil & turf".

The above picture is the exact same bottle i have. Its the "old" Bayer complete. It says Nothing about Vegetables in any of the pages of the instructions. It also says on the front of the bottle, "for soil & Turf"
Also this bottle is no longer posted on Bayer's website, as you said they have a new Bayer complete with a lower % of Imid. Have you taken the time to read the label of the bottle you are posting pictures of? It would seem not.

 

[EclipseFour20]

LOL...sometimes you gotta give Retrogrow a break. Gotta remember, he only had Root Aphids ONCE and Bayer Complete got rid of em in his tiny garden--he obviously is not up to date on Bayer products (why would he? he no longer has Root Aphids...or so he says).

The primary difference between "food grade" or "nonfood grade" pesticides (made of the same active ingredient) will usually be the inert ingredients. You know, the stuff labeled as "other ingredients" (which can be 99% of the product)...and the manufacturer is not required to disclose.

What are "inert ingredients"? Oh, things petroleum gases, kerosene, etc. See the complete listing of all nonfood inert ingredients here:http://www.epa.gov/opprd001/inerts/inert_nonfooduse.pdf

Inert ingredients for "food grade" is found in the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR), 40 CFR part 180 (the majority are found in sections 180.910 – 960)...located here: http://ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=ecfr&tpl=/ecfrbrowse/Title40/40cfr180_main_02.tpl


Just because the active ingredient may be the same...the inert ingredients of "food grade" and "nonfood grade" pesticides are seldom the same.


Cheers!

 

[skunkburner]

So this morning I found these two little fuckers on a sticky trap, they don't appear to have wings and are certainly not fungus gnats. I have an awful suspicion that they may be root aphids, but I've only found these two. I dug into the pots and used my microscope to check the roots but didn't see anything crawling around. If these are root aphids I'll have to get some Merit 75 and start treating things. Could someone identify these unwelcome bastards?

Little Bastard #1:

Little Bastard #2:

 

[puff adder]

Those look like a beetle of some sort. They don't strike me as root aphids.

 

[FoCo(No.Co)]

I agree. Those are not root aphids.

 

[TripleDraw27]

Looks like a mini potatoe bug YUKK! GL on your search.

 

[zor]

just wanted to put this quote in here as it might be a consideration for some...

ScienceDaily (Apr. 5, 2012) — The likely culprit in sharp worldwide declines in honeybee colonies since 2006 is imidacloprid, one of the most widely used pesticides, according to a new study from Harvard School of Public Health (HSPH).

 

[Hammerhead]

Admin has already took care of this thread 1x.. Lets get the thread back on topic and stop poking ea other with a stick... We have a option called Ignore Use it if you need to..

 

[puff adder]

I have been using MET52 successfully for a couple runs now, and I'm very happy to report NO evidence of RA's at all since using it.

MET52 comes in the form of innoculated rice, which you mix into your medium, and anything that comes into contact with it gets sick and dies and eventually becomes plant food. IT WORKS!!!

I've just been told they are again selling smaller amounts. You can get 2.2 pound bags for $90, or 22 pound bags. It goes a LONG ways, a very good deal for what it does.

If you don't want to use Imid or any other nasty stuff, use MET52, it's the Nuclear Bomb to root aphids.

PM me for their info. I have their website and phone number, just not sure if it's OK to post that info here. If it is, let me know and I'll post it up, otherwise PM me.

 

[RetroGrow]

I have been using MET52 successfully for a couple runs now, and I'm very happy to report NO evidence of RA's at all since using it.

MET52 comes in the form of innoculated rice, which you mix into your medium, and anything that comes into contact with it gets sick and dies and eventually becomes plant food. IT WORKS!!!

I've just been told they are again selling smaller amounts. You can get 2.2 pound bags for $90, or 22 pound bags. It goes a LONG ways, a very good deal for what it does.

If you don't want to use Imid or any other nasty stuff, use MET52, it's the Nuclear Bomb to root aphids.

PM me for their info. I have their website and phone number, just not sure if it's OK to post that info here. If it is, let me know and I'll post it up, otherwise PM me.

It's O.K. to post websites......