Also, you mention tobacco studies. What's that got to do with cannabis? You're comparing things that are cultivated differently. We grow weed in little 2 gallon pots or small cubes, etc. These allow things to leach out from the medium more rapidly, therefor only leaving the initial dose in the plant. Again what is posting a document or number going to prove. Someone could just use a program to make one up in a matter of minutes or I could of used imid 90 days before and said it was 70 or could have never used it at all and said I did. How is the lab to know when I used it. I just don't see what the point in that would be. Seriously can you think of one rational explanation as to why I would make up this info? I just want to grow the best and cleanest weed around, which I do! Thought I'd share some info I've learned that could help others, info that cost me time and money to gather. The only Internet access I have is my phone which doesn't allow me to upload a couple of copies of our results. But at this point I imagine you would see them and say they're fabricated. I like your comment about working in a world of facts, when the weed world is anything but. If your really that hard up for quantitive info I could message the lab to see if they'd share the imid data with you. They're one of the bigger ones in Cali and are great guys to work with.
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Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???
- Thread starter spleebale
- Start date
Hmmm...so no real facts then. I guess we will have to take your word for this scientific breakthough. BTW, tobacco--like MMJ, is grown and smoked; since there are mountains of work involving pesticide residual on tobacco leaves, it makes sense to study these studies.
Nothing personal, but when I see something posted in a stoner forum that defies all science, then I have to classify that work as "stoner logic" and ignore it. We all have opinions (and I always respect opinions) and it is your opinion that Imid is gone after after 70-75 days of application, but unfortunately the science and their facts indicate otherwise.
Cheers!
Nothing personal, but when I see something posted in a stoner forum that defies all science, then I have to classify that work as "stoner logic" and ignore it. We all have opinions (and I always respect opinions) and it is your opinion that Imid is gone after after 70-75 days of application, but unfortunately the science and their facts indicate otherwise.
Cheers!
Ok Mr. Scientist. Well if you want to validate the test results, the test were performed by the Werc Shop in Cali. Let me know and I'll give them a call to authorize releasing my imid test to you and you can find their number online so that way you don't think I'm giving you a friends #. They have no way to validate when I applied it but can verify i've screened for it at least 5 times and that they've detected it some of those times. They can also verify that I've been testing other pesticides but won't release exact details as this data belongs to them and I. If that isn't proof enough then I guess nothing will be. Unlike you I don't go by just whats printed online from studies done in different environments on different crops. I took the time and spent the money to test it in real life situations the way I and everyone else on this thread is going to use it, indoors and on cannabis.
M
MacGyver420
save your energy you have shared some great information in the last few pages if people choose not to listen to you its their own thing... i personally agree with you and a lot of the points you have made.
-peace
Why not just post the actual results?
Exactly!...I knew, there would be something that Retrogrow & I would finally agree on!
4Ever...I don't believe any one person has a monopoly on good ideas--and everyday I try to learn something new--but with age comes experience...and my combined education and experience has taught me to: trust...but verify--& always question authority!
BTW...I also learned that when people run out of ammunition, they usually resort to name calling or belittling their opponent---I have not belittled you...nor out of ammo! I question the accuracy of the statements you made--since they do not jive with the conclusions of those that are a smarter than me (you know--the guys in white coats with pocket protectors that have lots of alphabet soup behind their name...whose work is peer reviewed).
Cheers!
BluntKilla
New member
I did a foliar spray mixing the Orthene with Saturator by Dutch Master. The Saturator is a penetrating surfactant so you can spray with the lights on and use less.
And yeah, it smells horrible long after you seal up the container.
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=acephate
From Wikipedia: "Acephate is an organophosphate foliar insecticide"
The active ingredient in Orthene TT&O is Acephate. Acephate is a sytemic that absorbs readily into leaf tissue. So, when using Orthene TT&O you most definitely want to spray it on. It may work as a drench, I don't know, but the product is designed to be sprayed on your plants. Not that hard to lookup. I also sprayed Mighty Wash a couple days after each Orthene application to wipe out the flyers. Worked great.
I have no problem posting them next time I'm on an actual pc. I'm out in the sticks with no Internet connection except my phone. If there's a way to upload images from my phone to my album I will.
The thing is I don't have all the detailed info that Eclipse wants. Although each result has a lot I'd # that can be used to verify the results throug the Werc Shop <---men in WHITE coats. Anyone else who wants to verify them can.
Eclipse: You seem to have no problem spending a bunch of time gathering info from the net for this thread why not spend five minutes on the phone to validate my claims. Is it because you've posted a bunch of post about how bad imid is and last 229 days and now someone tells you're wrong? I'm truly sorry I called you Mr. Scientist I wasn't aware it was offensive and gonna hurt your feelings.
Hmm...you might research the active ingredient acephate a bit more before you make silly statements based on Wiki fiction.
First, I got the idea of using Orthene as a soil drench from the November 2001 article linked below. I suggest you read the first two paragraphs under RESULTS on page two...it states, Orthene soil drenches provided nearly 100% mortality of Root Aphids.
http://www.bioworksinc.com/products/shared/root-aphid-control-article.pdf
Second, using Acephate soil drenches to combat Root Aphids was recommended by entomologist Ray Cloyd (during our telephone conversation).
Third, Orthene drenches (both soil and "transplant water treatments") are mfg suggested methods to combat soil critters and provide the plant with systemic qualities...and kill on contact (again RAs are not on the leaves--but in the soil); read the label and ignore Wiki.
Hope this helps!
puff adder
Member
When I first found RA's in my garden, looking very closely I swear I saw a RA flyer shooting babies right out of it's butt. Then I read that they can asexually reproduce.
Check this video out, SCARY!
MET52 has worked in one of my rooms. This particular room I had to use Imid because the RA's ALWAYS came back, and on this last run, I see no evidence of RA's. I am impressed!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7eRGHVx3p0&feature=g-vrec&context=G2e999e0RVAAAAAAAAAQ
Check this video out, SCARY!
MET52 has worked in one of my rooms. This particular room I had to use Imid because the RA's ALWAYS came back, and on this last run, I see no evidence of RA's. I am impressed!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7eRGHVx3p0&feature=g-vrec&context=G2e999e0RVAAAAAAAAAQ
im in a battle with root aphids. ive been using merit75, it never completely took care of the RA's.
ive heard met 52 is real good. but it doesnt work for everyone... the post above got my attention.
im going to try the imidacloprid and bayer complete combo and let you know how it works out.
i have friends that got met52 and still have issues... the combo im going to use is cheaper and im hoping, more effective...
good luck to anyone with this problem.. i wouldnt wish this on my worst enemy!!
that is a scary video!
these aphids are the WORST bug! theyve set me back too much as is. i need this fixed!
puff adder - how is everything looking since you used met52?? i know people that still had RA's after using it.
i took my whole veg and soaked them in: merit75, azamax, great white, hygrozym, and alittle bio thrive grow. everyy thing was submerged for 25 minutes. let run off. as i did that, i completely cleaned the veg area.. im hoping this helps.
im still going at these things from another angle. taking the advice from sacredoutlaw.
puff adder
Member
For over 2 years, I've used Imidicloprid. I tried not using it once, and they came back with a vengeance, so now, I hit the plants once in veg, and once again on day 7-10 of flowering, and this has allowed me to run to the end succesfully. The RA's came back like clockwork if I didn't use the Imid. That said, I always found a flyer or 2 towards the end of each run, so I know I never got completely rid of them, but the Imid kept them at bay enough to have good, consistent success.
I tried MET52 in this room on this last run and I have yet to see any evidence whatsoever of the RA's. I still see a few fungus gnats, but no aphid crawlers or flyers.
I was told to make sure every plant in the room got the MET52, so that's what I did, and things have worked out so far.
The bummer is, after i bought a few pounds of MET52, I recieved an email saying they couldn't sell small amounts any more, all I could get was a 50 pound sack for $1200 or something like that. I'm using what I have left sparingly.
I tried MET52 in this room on this last run and I have yet to see any evidence whatsoever of the RA's. I still see a few fungus gnats, but no aphid crawlers or flyers.
I was told to make sure every plant in the room got the MET52, so that's what I did, and things have worked out so far.
The bummer is, after i bought a few pounds of MET52, I recieved an email saying they couldn't sell small amounts any more, all I could get was a 50 pound sack for $1200 or something like that. I'm using what I have left sparingly.
puff adder - im glad met52 worked for you. i might have to get some myself.
has anyone tried bayer advanced tree and shrub??
i got to home depot i found bayer complete insect killer, and this bayer advanced tree and shrub, they both had the same percertage of Imidacloprid, Clothiandin, and other ingredients... acouple things i noticed right off was, on the back of the tree and shrub it says it kills aphids, while bayer complete insect killer said it did not kill aphids... also, tree and shrub contains merit, and has an N-P-K value of 2-1-1. so the tree and shrub also feeds as it kills.
a small factor of why i grabbed the tree and shrub over the complete insect killer was how well each item sold.. the tree and shrub had about 3 bottles on the shelf. while the bayer complete insect killer had a fully stocked shelf. makes me think that this tree and shrub might be a better product.
i see that the feed rate on tree and shrub is less. its one teaspoon per gal... sacredoutlaw seemed to have success tripling the recommended application rate. so i might be trying that here... ill take acouple plants and try 3 teaspoons per gallon with the 20 minute soak method. if they seem to be ok with it, ill do the rest.
has anyone tried bayer advanced tree and shrub??
i got to home depot i found bayer complete insect killer, and this bayer advanced tree and shrub, they both had the same percertage of Imidacloprid, Clothiandin, and other ingredients... acouple things i noticed right off was, on the back of the tree and shrub it says it kills aphids, while bayer complete insect killer said it did not kill aphids... also, tree and shrub contains merit, and has an N-P-K value of 2-1-1. so the tree and shrub also feeds as it kills.
a small factor of why i grabbed the tree and shrub over the complete insect killer was how well each item sold.. the tree and shrub had about 3 bottles on the shelf. while the bayer complete insect killer had a fully stocked shelf. makes me think that this tree and shrub might be a better product.
i see that the feed rate on tree and shrub is less. its one teaspoon per gal... sacredoutlaw seemed to have success tripling the recommended application rate. so i might be trying that here... ill take acouple plants and try 3 teaspoons per gallon with the 20 minute soak method. if they seem to be ok with it, ill do the rest.
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takkada
Member
i spray my room once or twice per year when its empty with floramite for mites, important to spray outside of room walls and intake aswell. then i use asatrol on the plants once in veg , rotate avid everyother grow so the mites , and adult aphids, and fungis nats and thrips ect. dont grow amune to one spray , very important tip. then fox farms is great siol they bake there siol to a certain temp killing any bug larva. so unless this stuff is stored outside were you buy it , then generally its ok . last i keep a bottle of gonates for begining wks of flower for a siol drench . gonates can be added to your watering schedule at anytime you feel you need it. gonates by earthjuice goes into siol and kills any fungis nates larva witch is the most important tip they feed on the roots folicals or the tips of the roots that take in nuts, resulting in difiency
Tree & Shrub is for trees and shrubs.
Bayer Complete is for fruiting and flowering plants, hence a better choice. It has imid plus a contact killer. The contact killer does not kill RAs but the imid does.
Why people keep recommending Tree & Shrub is beyond comprehension.
The longer this thread gets, the more disinformation is spread.
All you need is the recommended dosage of:
You do not need to exceed the recommended dosage. That is how resistance is built.
Follow directions on label and you will be good.
takkada
Member
i also used this bug killer by bayer on my room and was please it worked good , but i will not spray my plants with it.
takkada
Member
i also used this bug killer by bayer on my room and was please it worked good , but i will not spray my plants with it. unless its used on a food product then i would not spray my plants .
