What's new
  • Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

My home sounds like it's making pop corn...in the dark!

Hammerhead

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The contactor or relay needs power to work.. You would buy power cord that goes the the contactor when its energized it will pass the power to all the outlets on the load side. The power cord you bought would plug into the timer. hope that helps..


So you will still need 1 timer to trigger the contactor or relay...
 
Last edited:
Hammerhead

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Timer used to trigger Contactor

picture.php


Power cord to the contactor from the timer
picture.php
 
rives

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
You will need a separate relay for each timer. The second link that I posted for them above has them for about $20 each for DPDT relays.
 
downtoearth

downtoearth

Member
You guys are seriously the best. I totally appreciate your help. All of you. There is so much information to learn. :)
 
Hammerhead

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
yes if you want things to turn on/off at different times. 120v or 240v is the power needed to energize the relay. there rated v is 120-600v. You only need 120v. I missed the part where you will be running a veg light..
 
rives

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Those timers will easily handle any type of relay or contactor with a 120vac coil.

The power relays that I listed are significantly more heavy-duty than a definite-purpose contactor, but either one would work fine for your application.
 
CannabisTHC

CannabisTHC

Member
Good luck with the controller! I was thinking about making my own, but decided DX's controllers really aren't that expensive, so went that route. Ended up learning everything I needed to know about electrical because of it though which is and will be very useful.

rives said:
DX had used some wiring methods that were a little worrisome
Click to expand...

Just curious how were the wiring methods worrisome?
 
Hammerhead

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
These have been mentioned in this thread already. There where a few bad decisions made in the components used to make my controller.
 
downtoearth

downtoearth

Member
Reason for my build

Reason for my build

CannabisTHC said:
Good luck with the controller! I was thinking about making my own, but decided DX's controllers really aren't that expensive, so went that route. Ended up learning everything I needed to know about electrical because of it though which is and will be very useful.

just curious how were the wiring methods worrisome?
Click to expand...

The only reason that I am making my own is the number of receptacles (outlets) that I need. There is like 15 or so needed currently. The cost was much too great on the larger controllers. More than I wanted to spend anyhow. Also, this one, when it is finished will be semi-portable. When I leave this home, it will come with me. I say semi-portable because it has to be hard wired and not just plug and play. Also, I don't have to guess who put the wiring together if my house burns down lol. I'll only have myself to blame which I am okay with.
wave.gif


I haven't gotten to wiring anything just yet and will more than likely employ the talents of an electrician. I'll let you know and I will post the finished product in this thread. And thank you for the good luck wishes! Peace
 
downtoearth

downtoearth

Member
OK. Just ordered these gems. Do the pro's here see any issue thus far? And Rives? I went with the panel with the cut off switch like you suggested :)

Timer:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F3ZR8C
Relay:http://www.pioneerbreaker.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CN-PBC402-120V&CartID=1
Receptacle:http://www.discount-hydro.com/products/C.A.P.-Universal-X%252dPlug-120%7B47%7D240-Receptacle.html (these are for running my 240v HID's)
Surge Protector:http://www.lowes.com/pd_30639-82364...&Ntt=30639&N=0&langId=-1&storeId=10151&rpp=24 (this is for the entire home, I figured why not at this point right?)
Main Breaker Box:http://www.lowes.com/pd_89671-82364...&Ntt=89671&N=0&langId=-1&storeId=10151&rpp=24
 
Hammerhead

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The bottom discount hudro 120v 240v you dont want those. There a accident waiting to happen... you wire that at 240v and plug a 120v device in it BANG LOL.. You have to make sure 240v can not plug into a 120v outlet and a 120v can not plug into a 240v outlet....

You want Nema 6-20r for your 240v devices.



nema_6-20r_t-slot.gif



For 120v get Nema 5-20r.

nema_5-20r_t-slot.gif
 
Last edited:
Hammerhead

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
downtoearth

downtoearth

Member
Greets.

Greets.

Hammerhead said:
No get the 120v. The 240v means you need 240v to trigger the relay... You only need 120v for that..

http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Relays_-z-_Timers/Electro-Mechanical_Relays/Power_Relays,_Open-Style,_40A_(AD-PR40_Series)/AD-PR40-2A-120A
Click to expand...

I'm using the 240v universal receptacles for use with my 240v ballasts. I don't feel like buying new cords for them. I'm using the 120v receptacles for the other equipment.

I have a nice label maker to mark DANGER 240 Volts! Or something like that lol. Hell, more than likely I will spray paint the outlet box red :)

Also, I ordered one 240v relay to actuate a total of two 240v HID ballasts. I also ordered a total of one 120v relay to actuate the older single 120v HID ballast that can not switch to 240v. I got that dog on craigs list lol :)
 
rives

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
downtoearth said:
I'm using the 240v universal receptacles for use with my 240v ballasts. I don't feel like buying new cords for them. I'm using the 120v receptacles for the other equipment.

I have a nice label maker to mark DANGER 240 Volts! Or something like that lol. Hell, more than likely I will spray paint the outlet box red :)

Also, I ordered one 240v relay to actuate a total of two 240v HID ballasts. I also ordered a total of one 120v relay to actuate the older single 120v HID ballast that can not switch to 240v. I got that dog on craigs list lol :)
Click to expand...


Using the C(R)AP receptacles is a huge mistake, in my opinion. There is not only the problem with the potential to plug in the wrong voltage equipment, but there is absolutely no way that those devices have passed any governing authority's testing (UL, CSA, etc) because they flagrantly disregard all existing standards. However, if you want to use cheap Chinese shit that has never been proven to handle the advertised load, good luck! Personally, I like my home in it's present configuration and fires scare the shit out of me, so I use nothing less than specification grade receptacles. Bear in mind that you are saving a grand total of about $10 by not replacing the cord caps on your two existing cords. *rant off*

If you are talking about 240v relays as being relays with double-pole contacts, fine, but that is the wrong terminology. However, if you are calling 240v relays (correctly) relays with a 240vac coil, you are going to have problems switching them with your timer.

*edit* If you insist on using the wrong receptacles, at least use a decent quality, UL approved receptacle and wire it with the wrong voltage. That way, if you burn some shit up it will be your own fault and not the fault of some poorly made off-shore crap made with inadequate materials and no performance testing. Hmmm....have I made my opinion of those receptacles clear enough?
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top