I tried the 125 degree dunk for RA's, now I need help...

[burny downz]

I recently tried something I saw posted about dunking pots in 125 degree(F) h2o for 5 min, to help eradicate root aphids. I dunked several vegging varieties of different sizes.The plants were dunked and left to sit in the tray for a couple hours and then went back to the normal ebb/flow routine. Its now a few days later and some of the plants are starting to wilt, a few look terminal. Keep in mind I knew this was going to be experimental and maybe I didnt think it all the way through Any thoughts on how to revive, or am I seeing the first signs of a horrible experiment gone wrong? Thx.......BD

 

[SeaMaiden]

I'd hit with mycos or Roots Exelurator (sp?). I'm assuming the vegging plants were well rooted, yes? The technique I posted is based on research on grape stock, a decidedly woodier plant to work with.

 

[burny downz]

Yeah thats what I thought....I just hit a couple of them with Cal/Mg and Roots Excelurator. Gonna wait a few hours in dim lighting and check back, stay tuned......BD

 

[SeaMaiden]

Might try misting or adding a humidity dome, too. If nothing else works, make them clones again.

I am truly interested to know how this works out. I didn't read of this technique until I had eradicated my RA infestation using some fairly noxious chemicals and I would have preferred to use something a little less extreme/toxic.

 

[Green&Gold]

I also tried this "method". It killed 98% of the plants I dunked. These were well rooted, healthy looking plants, and included a few med-large mother plants. Those were well rooted, in the extreme. It was murder/suicide. I call it cooking your plants roots. Fun times indeed. Also tried lower temps, and killed most of those palnts too. My sample size was large. Killed a lot of plants. Don't do it. Right now have success making a more biologically diverse medium, with ewc, teas, admenments, superworm shit, home made lacto (kvass).

 

[SeaMaiden]

Thanks for that, G&G, though I'm sorry it came at that cost. However, when battling RAs extreme measures seem to end up being necessary.

Your post brings me back to my soil-food-web ladies and how they did just fine.

 

[Bluenote]

I recently tried something I saw posted about dunking pots in 125 degree(F) h2o for 5 min, to help eradicate root aphids. I dunked several vegging varieties of different sizes.The plants were dunked and left to sit in the tray for a couple hours and then went back to the normal ebb/flow routine. Its now a few days later and some of the plants are starting to wilt, a few look terminal. Keep in mind I knew this was going to be experimental and maybe I didnt think it all the way through Any thoughts on how to revive, or am I seeing the first signs of a horrible experiment gone wrong? Thx.......BD

Ouch , I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings. The technique is a matter of some controversy even in the vine and orchard trades , and when it can KILL an Olive or Eucalyptus , well then it really says something , since both species are well nigh un killable.

 

[Green&Gold]

Seamaiden it's all good. I bear no ill will. If it had worked I would have lauded you. I suggest everyone make a big ass bottle of kvass, with rye flour and molasses, pinch of salt. Smells exactly like EM1.

 

[RedReign]

Ouch! 125 degrees? That's hot ass water to dip cannabis root balls in. What made you decide to try that? Seems like the second you did a finger dippin' temp test, you'd know it wouldn't end well.

 

[SeaMaiden]

There's a paper that says a 100% eradication rate of root aphids on grape vine root stocks was achieved using this method. I've reposted it because often many people discover only too late in flower that what they're battling are root aphids, far too late to try any typical imidacloprid treatment (assuming the grower knows anything about imid), which in itself has a rather poor eradication rate. As does Triazicide, as does Merit75 (strongest imid product I'm aware of), as does Botanigard, as does Met52.

And these things don't even have in their genetic arsenal what the family of mites does.

 

[RockyMountainHi]

There's a paper that says a 100% eradication rate of root aphids on grape vine root stocks was achieved using this method. I've reposted it because often many people discover only too late in flower that what they're battling are root aphids, far too late to try any typical imidacloprid treatment (assuming the grower knows anything about imid), which in itself has a rather poor eradication rate. As does Triazicide, as does Merit75 (strongest imid product I'm aware of), as does Botanigard, as does Met52.

And these things don't even have in their genetic arsenal what the family of mites does.

Where's the repost SeaMaiden?

 

[Relentless]

didnt see, have u tried bayers complete insect killer? works for me.. just gotta use it once in veg..

nvm saw that u are in flower

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

All you will ever need and guaranteed to work. Fuck the chemicals.

http://rinconvitova.com/aphid%20control.htm

 

[187020]

All you will ever need and guaranteed to work. Fuck the chemicals.

http://rinconvitova.com/aphid%20control.htm

Which bugs you order specifically Holmes? Ima unleash hell before summer...apocalypse spider mite!!

Peace

 

[RockyMountainHi]

Craven- know thy enemy. most here are battleing Root Aphids, I was reading up on the Rinconvitova site and they have different bugs for different pests, so make sure then let us know.

I want a multi warhead attack, even 99% effective means they WILL be back.

I use 6-inch rockwool cubes, and used Imid about 3 months ago. (Bayer tree and shrub)

Since then I have been microwaving the blocks at harvest. I'm still getting a few plants with issues and I found 1 RA with a microscope.

It's important to erradicate your problem, lest they get stronger and even harder to kill next time.

mites r different, mites like Imid - take baths in it and contine to kill the garden.

I have been reading a book "Hemp Diseases and Pests: Management and Biological Cont
" and Holy Batfuc# Robin! The things our grandparents knew about growing "Hemp"!!!
I gotta see what SM was talkin about - I'll send her a PM
done........



about that 125 deg root treatment---- if the top half dosen't like 90 in air,,

 

[SeaMaiden]

Where's the repost SeaMaiden?

Sorry about that! Let's see if I can make good here.

K, got your paper attached for you. Now, you should know that I have been informed of one person having success using 120*F dips, and this person relayed that he didn't kill his plants. Unfortunately, I can no longer contact this person.

As for the predatory animules--not a single one this site lists appears to be an animal that would dig into the earth, the rhizosphere, in order to do its hunting. Root aphids are a different creature from 'aphids', in that the only above-ground form seems to be the flyer, and spiders would be just as effective there (and they weren't).

My suggestion is to look into increasing Brix and microbial diversity, especially if a non-systemic like Triazicide hasn't worked for you.

 

[MIway]

didnt see, have u tried bayers complete insect killer? works for me.. just gotta use it once in veg..

nvm saw that u are in flower

That's my experience too... Bayer complete killed em all dead on contact. My guess is that the residual activity is low, esp after people start feeding-flushing it out. Unless you are getting a full medium dunk, plus spraying anywhere and everywhere that one could be hiding... (Under pots, bottom of trays, even on the stalks)... All it takes is one surviving (missed) mom... And the next cycle begins... Perhaps over a month before they are noticed again.

Seems like if they keep coming back, complete and exhaustive coverage wasn't attained the first time around. If ya got some in flower that didn't get hit, thinkin seperate room and all, get to it at chop... Then all it takes is one to crawl away, get lost, and find its way into the veg area a couple of days later... Or takes a hitch on u'r person even.

Imid kills em dead tho... Know that for a fact.

 

[SeaMaiden]

Bayer T&S didn't do it for me, and that was including spraying ALL adjacent areas. The Spectracide with Triazicide did it for me. You MUST treat all adjacent areas, though, you cannot have fliers and not do this or you'll continually be re-infested.

 

[festivus]

Dipping plants in 125F water to kill RA is extreme. Since you're in flowering already, and too far into the grow to start over, I would recommend you buy a product by FoxFarm called "Don't Bug Me" and spray the shit out of your rootballs, once a week for a month. Here's a cut & paste from their website-

Don’t Bug Me® contains pyrethrum, which is derived from chrysanthemum flowers. It is environmentally friendly, but because Don’t Bug Me® contains a synergist called piperonyl butoxide that helps activate the pyrethrum, it is not classified as a 100% organic pesticide.

Even organic products need to be used with care. Please follow package directions carefully when applying Don’t Bug Me®, and remember that encouraging beneficial insects and tolerating a little bug damage will make your garden healthier in the long run. (Hint: plants that produce clusters of small flowers, like alyssum, yarrow, and feverfew, will attract beneficial insects that attack pests.)

 

[festivus]

It goes without saying that using preventive measures at the beginning of the grow will determine the risk level of an RA infestation, or re-infestaton.

I learned the hard way that even the most expensive organic soil can carry RA, not just the cheapo brands. I've resorted to baking my dirt @ 350F for one hour and dipping my plastic pots in boiling water beforehand. Yes, baking the soil kills the microheard, but the peace of mind of not having these little bastards f'up my grows is worth it. Micros can always be added after the bake.