How to completely erradicate: Root Aphids, Mites, & Thrips

[40AmpstoFreedom]

Edit: Aphid treatment does not work.

List of things that have not worked:

Pyrethrum
Pyrethrin
Bifrenthin
Cyperethrin
Azadachtin
Merit 75
Met 52 (fungus)
Spinosad

All of them never completely killed them off.

Currently trying:

Organic Soil
Beneficial Nematodes @ 5 million per week
Botanigard



Aphids: Don't let this crop be your crop...

I hear a lot of people recommend only one pesticide and claim it worked. I also hear a lot of people complain that it did not work for them. I believe this is because they are not killing the aphids effectively throughout the entire room. Some are left a live and allowed to propagate because they were able to survive in their location. This will kill them everywhere permanently whether they are in the medium, air, or your reservoirs if you have any.

Ridiculously low yield? A constant MG deficiency that never seems to go away? Unexplainable brown splotches on random leaves? Some leaves twisting and contorting or abnormal growth? You have aphids.

Root Aphids:

Contact Killer Airborne @ 1 can per 4k-8k watt room

Contact Killer Soil Dunk @ 8 ounces per 5 gallons of water

Systemic 1 @ 4 ounces per 5 gallons of water

Systemic 2 @ 1/2 tsp per 5 gallons of water

Do 2 applications of everything except the foggers. When you use the foggers keep it far from your plants or you will burn them from the discharge.

Do your applications with one insecticide a day. Do not use everything on the same day. Apply in the order of the pictures. The fogger is always used first.

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

Mites:

Contact Killer Airborne @ 1 can per 4k-8k watt room

Systemic @ 1/2 tsp per gallon

Spray Contact Killer @ 2 ounces a gallon apply with a pest sprayer

I recommend these for sprayers. They will last 15+ years easy and the mist/spray patterns are fantastic. You barely have to pump it and the pressure last forever.

I found the spinosad to really rock the mites. they hate that stuff and almost instantly die.

First application should be all three on the same day. The very next day use only the spinosad and completely drench the plants. On the 5th choose to use another pyrethrum bomb or not. Continue to apply the spinosad every 5 days until mites are completely gone. On the 14th day reapply floramite. Mites should dead by now but you may want to be extra cautious and hit them with spinosad. Be sure to apply floramite on your next flowering round. You should have completely eradicated them by this point.

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

Thrips:

Contact Killer Airborne @ 1 can per 4k-8k watt room

Spray Contact Killer @ 2 ounces a gallon apply with a pest sprayer

Systemic @ 1/2 tsp per gallon

Use pyrethrum bombs 2 times 5 days apart. These are key because thrips are amazing little jumpers and very smart... Do the same application rates for mites with the spinosad and the Floramite SC.

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

I hate when I make a typo in the title and can't correct it. If there is a bored mod out there who happens to read this I would appreciate erradicate being change to eradicate. Thanks anyone out there does.

I made this thread because I have run into all three of these upon my first 3 grows in a new state. The aphids were by far the most devastating and hard to kill. The mites were second. The thrips were pretty easy once I figured their flying game out and used the foggers + spraying. Floramite also works on them and they completely disappeared.

Mites disappeared for a month and half only to magically reappear in the flowering room where they originally never were but were immediately knocked out in one application of my regimen and never to be seen of again.

 

[slackx]

looks like Contact Killer Airborne is the cure all eh?

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

looks like Contact Killer Airborne is the cure all eh?

Only knocked out a 1/3 of the mites when used solo but still affected them and I have learned when you go to nuclear war bring all your weapons. The airborne is priceless for getting the flyers so they can't lay anymore eggs. The airborne was very effective against thrips when used solo but there was still a residual left over and it only takes one female and one male of any of these bugs to make a friggin nightmare in a couple of days.

The dunk is priceless for getting all the ones in the medium and reservoirs if anyone has those. Those pyrethrins really worked. Monterey makes a .5% strength one but it was in pure canola oil so I passed for the weaker version that was in a much more watery liquid substance with very little oil as I was not about to douse my roots with any oil like I did before with gognats...Oil can't be good for roots of MJ when they require and want a lot of oxygen.

 

[spunion]

I was recommended that Pyrethrin for mites from somebody at a hydro store. Just sprayed tonight. He said to spray again after 10 days and again before I flip to 12/12. I think I'm going to grab a Hot Shot No Pest Strips or two just to be safe, hopefully that can save me from having to use a fogger.

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

I was recommended that Pyrethrin for mites from somebody at a hydro store. Just sprayed tonight. He said to spray again after 10 days and again before I flip to 12/12. I think I'm going to grab a Hot Shot No Pest Strips or two just to be safe, hopefully that can save me from having to use a fogger.

I would use the spinosad and pyrethrin spray and you won't even need the fogger since they aren't flyers. Just drench your plants! Do not go light make sure you get all the underside of the leaves. I laid my plants on their sides and turned them while spraying but those were in veg obviously not doin that in flower. The sprayer I used had such an awesome mist and wide range it is very easy to get plants under their leaves even sitting up normally. I just found pyreth to be very weak on the mites it only made them whence and the ones immune to it kept pumping out kids. The spinosad straight up annihilated them. I jumped for joy when I came in the room a couple hours after applying it.

 

[Warped1]

Thanks for the info 40

 

[Blaze215]

Tag.

 

[Greenheart]

make sure you get all the underside of the leaves

100% coverage of plant and soil is a key requirement when battling mites. I have literally seen leaves with bite marks outlining the area where leaves matted during application and did not get proper coverage. I find that defoliating older fan leaves and leaving pretty mostly new growth right before application helps ensure complete coverage during application.

So far for mites all I ever needed was neem and diligence. The RA's are a nightmare though. I was in fungal gnat denial for a year but have finally come to the acceptance stage of my RA problem.

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

Yea man RA's are hell you just have to break down and go multiple chemical they are so damn strong ;\

I find that defoliating older fan leaves and leaving pretty mostly new growth right before application helps ensure complete coverage during application.

Very good tip by the way I did this as well and should have said so.

 

[Critter]

Im using in this order cause i caught em late. Imid ,evergreen60-6(pyrith),Azamax,bontanigard, sticky aphid traps for the fliers. Im in soil this round and it still seems like i got em. I do have h202 but am hesitant to use it on soil, didn't know you could. Ill wait till greenheart reports back.

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

Im using in this order cause i caught em late. Imid ,evergreen60-6(pyrith),Azamax,bontanigard, sticky aphid traps for the fliers. Im in soil this round and it still seems like i got em. I do have h202 but am hesitant to use it on soil, didn't know you could. Ill wait till greenheart reports back.

Use that fogger traps aren't near as effective. How often do you use the evergreen and you use it as a soil drench right? I am actually going to order that stuff because it is way more powerful than the bonide and same active ingredients. Thanks a lot for posting that.

Order the foggers over the strips it seems to be the only difference between you and me and possibly application but mine are 100% gone. Without using the foggers I always had some flying and surviving somewhere.

Wish you luck and thanks again for the evergreen!

 

[qupee]

Good post. However, I gotta say, Spinosad was like speed to the mites I had, I swear.

100% coverage of plant and soil is a key requirement when battling mites.

Not if you get a systemic that takes care of all stages of life and translocates, i.e. Forbid 4F. One application, and I know I didn't get all the surfaces. Mites are done, gone.

Good advice though. Important points are using pesticides with different modes of action and repeating when necessary on the correct timeline to hit the next generation too. And bombs are definitely useful to clear outliers (tho personally I haven't experienced reinfestation, and there have been times I've been sloppy enough I expected to see that).

 

[qupee]

Im using in this order cause i caught em late. Imid ,evergreen60-6(pyrith),Azamax,bontanigard, sticky aphid traps for the fliers. Im in soil this round and it still seems like i got em. I do have h202 but am hesitant to use it on soil, didn't know you could. Ill wait till greenheart reports back.

h2o2 helped a TON with my aphid-damaged, water logged roots in soil. Magic! 15ml/g for 3% h2o2 (there's a formula out there if you have different, google it).

Also, I recently harvested a round that got first treated for aphids at 3.5 weeks into 12/12. They got a drench of Spectracide with Triazicide. and then later follow up with 2 applications of Botaniguard spaced 5 days apart.

I inspected the root balls post harvest a couple days ago and found NO aphids. (I had plenty before)

 

[Greenheart]

Thanks go out to 40AmpstoFreedom for all the detailed info in this thread.

 

[foomar]

Good info 40 , been troubled by them for the last year and took a while to work out what was wrong , rarely saw any flying stages and the stickey traps were clean.

Have found the synthetic pyrethrum named cypermethrin to be very effective as a soil drench , it is more persistant and seemingly more toxic to root pests.

Did not notice they were laying eggs on plant stems in a bubble cloner , was planting infested clones for a month till i looked close with a loupe and saw the horror , one drop of topell killed them with no damage to cuttings , should be useable in hydro.

These pests are infinately worse than mites to deal with , early symptoms are easily misread , then you water one day and have a halo of flies.

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

Good info 40 , been troubled by them for the last year and took a while to work out what was wrong , rarely saw any flying stages and the stickey traps were clean.

Have found the synthetic pyrethrum named cypermethrin to be very effective as a soil drench , it is more persistant and seemingly more toxic to root pests.

Did not notice they were laying eggs on plant stems in a bubble cloner , was planting infested clones for a month till i looked close with a loupe and saw the horror , one drop of topell killed them with no damage to cuttings , should be useable in hydro.

These pests are infinately worse than mites to deal with , early symptoms are easily misread , then you water one day and have a halo of flies.

I will buy a bottle of this now to keep around. I know you know your stuff. We are getting some awesome concise info in this thread very happy with every ones contribution. The other thread was just too sporadic and gigantic with everyone adding simply one cure all and not a multiple insecticide answer since these and mites seem to be immune to some things...

 

[40AmpstoFreedom]

I found the exact same chemical from two different companies online and same strong concentration of 40%. Demon WP and Cyperin WP. The only difference between the two is Cyper WP is half as cheap. The company that makes Demon WP is just the brand name that originally found it. So go with the Cyper WP 1 lb found it for only 35$ should last forever.