Need help with brown spots, stunted growth, and yellowing leaves on 2 young plants.

[PlateausOfLeng]

Well, I am anything but an expert, but I turned up an interesting article on this very subject: here. It is cited in-text, but I can't find the "works cited" section to double-check the citations. The article seems to support both ideas in different areas, as seen in this selection:

The leaves at the top of a plant tend to supply the top growing shoots. The leaves at the bottom of the plant tend to supply the roots. The middle leaves can go either way as the demand changes. During flowering and fruiting, only the very bottom leaves supply the roots and the rest of the leaves try to get as much energy as possible to the flowers of fruits. For this reason, the more leaves are unshaded and in good light, the more chance the plant has of creating extra storage of energy that will ultimately go into yield (Leaf, 03.13.2002). However Jeast (03.13.02) believes that the rich green leaves emerging from the bud are a sufficient energy source of solar energy for the plant's floral development. Therefore the old fan leaves are once again rendered useless and only drain energy from the developing part of the plant (Jeast, 03.13.02). Fan leaves store mobile nutrients, these stored nutrients are essential in the later stages of flowering. When flushing a plant the fan leaves will lose their color quickly. This is because the nutrients are being mobilized to the atypical meristem (grow tip, bud site). Draining your fan leaves with a flushing period will increase floral development (Ca, 13. 03.2002). Fan leaves therefore serve as a nutrient deficiency buffer zone for the plant (Higstar, 03. 13.2002). Nutrient burn usually causes bottom leaves begin to die however DaGnome (03.15.2002) observed that if you do not remove the leaves then they will absorb damage as premature removal generally results in more leaf loss.

 

[bobman]

I dont know, this would make for an interesting discussion. I did a search and found nothing either way in regards to lockout, which was the problem here. I know from first hand experience it at least seemed like a lockout or nutrient uptake problem spread faster when I removed leaves. I have nothing against pruning, so i dont know maybe i am searching wrong but i would think there would be something out there regarding this. google scholar did mot say anything one way or another and i searched about 12 different ways. there has to be some science one way or another. somebody pm spurr.

 

[Stress_test]

Well, I dont know about logic or common sense but science will tell you if you pull leaves and you have problem it will advance faster. The problem is still working its way through so I would say leave them on. Haha stress, I got the last word. this thread is officially closed.

Ya know this thread has gone on for five pages over some drama bullshit that needed a five second fix.
Now you all can play your games and "get the last word" all the fuck you want but it doesn't change the facts. And the fact is that you are full of shit and completely wrong. And I haven't seen you apply ANY science in this entire thread.

In fact ALL I have seen you do in this entire thread is talk a lot of bullshit and contradict every suggestion that anybody else has offered.

then read. these leafs are offering something, defense. for a new grower, with only a few leafs on the plant why risk it. sorry if i sound like a smartass, i respect you seamaiden and stress. i am in a hurry.

Bullshit... And no, you do not sound like a "smartass" you sound like a complete fuckin idiot.

Your logic pertaining to those dead leaves offering a defense for a new grower because there are only a few on the plant, is beyond smartass, it's completely fucking retarded.

And here is a piece of free advice bobman: This is the infirmary, and if you respond to members in this forum in the condescending manner that you did to SeaMaiden you usually inherit your own personal troll. If you do it to respected female member you can almost guarantee several trolls.

Well, I am anything but an expert, but I turned up an interesting article on this very subject: here. It is cited in-text, but I can't find the "works cited" section to double-check the citations. The article seems to support both ideas in different areas, as seen in this selection:

Did you read it all? I did years ago, and it was a complete waste of my time then. It's not an article, it's a "Growing Consensus Synopsis"... A summary of growing opinion... Opinions of members of a website discussion forum, full of new growers who consolidated the opinions of other new growers to attempt to understand how plants grow. Not only that but it pertains to "Fan Leaves", not sick plants.

"WHEN AND WHAT TO TRIM IF AT ALL To trim or not to trim that is the question. Try everything for yourself. Try it all ways. (The Crazy Composer, 13.03.2002). Simply put there is no universal answer it depends on how your are growing when where and what you trim "

Greetings IC! I'm a relatively inexperienced grower, just starting up a small grow. I have read quite a bit about plant problems, but I feel that I need to seek some advice.

I recently (29 days ago) planted 2 germinated beans (Afghani Milk from CH9 and Pineapple Chunk from Barney's Farm). At the time I only had "Miracle Grow Organic Choice Potting Mix" & "Miracle Grow Perlite"available, so I mixed it 60/40 and threw em in. Admittedly not the ideal soil.I have been afraid to give them any nutes for fear that the soil is already full of them, though I do have Fox Farms Liquids trio on hand.

The Pineapple Chunk (PC) has brown spots on some of the newer growth, along with yellowing and drying of earlier leaves (moving up the plant from the bottom). A the bottom-most leaves have already fallen off.

The Afghani Milk (AM) has some browning tips on the newer growth, with the same bottom-up yellowing and drying that the PC has. The bottom leaves have fallen off of this plant as well.

I've been watering them with distilled water when the top inch or so of soil is dry and the cups become light. They both got a bit of superthrive in one or two of their waterings.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

So you go ahead and contradict everybody else. The facts are the facts and those plants are rootbound, overwatered and locked up.

No amount of bullshit, dazzle or nube opinions will change the facts.

And I have been diagnosing plants since before you were out of the water bag. Simply because you say that I am wrong doesn't change plant biology or science.

Now can somebody tell me if there is a way to ignore or block members we find annoying or just don't wish to read the stupid crap they post?

 

[Duplicate]

Now can somebody tell me if there is a way to ignore or block members we find annoying or just don't wish to read the stupid crap they post?

Here
User profile > User lists > Add to Ignore list

(If you can't find the links just CTRL+F it and type in whatever you're looking for as shit can get crowded on those profile pages)

Hahaha nothing personal bobman, just mediating

 

[bobman]

who fixed the plants. enough said.

 

[bobman]

Here
User profile > User lists > Add to Ignore list

(If you can't find the links just CTRL+F it and type in whatever you're looking for as shit can get crowded on those profile pages)

Hahaha nothing personal bobman, just mediating

no problem. he showed his colors. he can ignore me no skin off my back

 

[PlateausOfLeng]

Great, my first post devolves into a flame war. I sure miss OG some days. Regardless, thanks for the the help all.

 

[bobman]

sorry buddy, glad u fixed ur plants and got a feel for things.

 

[chief bigsmoke]

Looks like a ph issue and over-watering. appears you may have to lower your ph (make it more acidic). At phs of 7 and up you lock-out Mn and Fe. There are lots of threads on ph on this site.

 

[bobman]

sorry, but I wanted seamaiden to see this. It seems that it can be good or bad depending on what you are trying to stop. Again studies on marijuana needed to be studied but I found it interesting the only article dealing with nutrient uptake suggested to leave them on. it would be my theory that if it was nutrient related to leave them on, if its fungus or pests to take them off but that probably varies from species.

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep269

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/cv262

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep273

 

[SeaMaiden]

Thank you bobman!

Ok, first article is about palms, and they're a special beast, many don't even like having what appear to US to be completely dead fans removed. Unfortunately, that method hardly affects some weed species of palms we see here in California, the kind that can mess up house foundations.

The other articles don't quite address what was suggested, so perhaps better qualification of what someone means is important here. It's also important to understand that, even though they're all plants, they don't always respond the same way to the same treatment, and since another article was about palms that leaves us back where we started. In need of an arborist. J/K, but my black oak could use some special care, I'm too afraid of killing it to try myself.

I hope that I did a better job of qualifying my suggestion regarding leaf removal better in my post previous to this. I would absolutely agree that healthy leaves, or leaves that are still performing photosynthesis and are feeding the plant, especially a young plant, are better left on.

 

[chief bigsmoke]

Info on Leaf dropping:

Abscisic Acid (ABA) is involved in leaf fall (absciccion), and in inducing bud and seed dormancy.

ABA production causes leaves to drop in the autumn, or when the plant is under stress such as drought, nutrient starvation, and flood. This is an important survival mechanism for plants since they are unable to obtain sufficient water or nutrients under these stressful conditions. If the leaves stayed on the plant, water loss and the demand for nutrients would eventually kill it. By having the leaves drop off, the plant may be able to survive until the stress conditions ends.

As days get shorter, ABA is synthesized in the leaves and moves through the vascular system to the buds, triggering them to stop growing and become dormant.

 

[bobman]

Thank you bobman!

Ok, first article is about palms, and they're a special beast, many don't even like having what appear to US to be completely dead fans removed. Unfortunately, that method hardly affects some weed species of palms we see here in California, the kind that can mess up house foundations.

The other articles don't quite address what was suggested, so perhaps better qualification of what someone means is important here. It's also important to understand that, even though they're all plants, they don't always respond the same way to the same treatment, and since another article was about palms that leaves us back where we started. In need of an arborist. J/K, but my black oak could use some special care, I'm too afraid of killing it to try myself.

I hope that I did a better job of qualifying my suggestion regarding leaf removal better in my post previous to this. I would absolutely agree that healthy leaves, or leaves that are still performing photosynthesis and are feeding the plant, especially a young plant, are better left on.

No, thank you Seamaiden!! I am in Florida and I am not a big fan of palms. I consider them a weed. I thought it was interesting that they suggest not removing leaves because everyone always strips theirs down every year here. But as you say that is probably related to the type of palm. As you know marijuana is a very unique plant that seems to go by its own set of rules. That makes it very hard to relate common problems and optimization techniques.