Looking for guerillas with leaf spot diease experience.

[StrapAssassin42]

Exactly Hamstring!...I've noticed that if a leaf that is damaged it will soon be destroyed by the fungus.
Vigor plays a big role too... i made a very similar post a few weeks ago... good to get some personal observations verified.
How do you think the sandy soil affects the plants/LS? Better aeration = improved vigor??

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

Its good to have you back hamstring!

I wish i could say that it wasnt bad here this year but in fact, just the opposite. There is fungal disease of one sort or another on every plant and tree in sight. I have tomatoes in the back yard and theyve had blight, stem rot and bottom end rot. Ive had 2 spray them 4 seperate times and i still have disease in my tomato patch. Its like the stuff has taken over. Every crabapple, elm, dogwood and alder tree has lost its leaves


Thats why i have such high hopes for the immunox. If i cant find a product that reliably and consistently stops the disease, outdoor growing here is over. I have 3 buddies that all grow. They didnt treat their crops and their crops - every plant- is dead. I have to find a safe cure.

tristynhawk, Greencure really helpss with botryitis but you cant use more than 1.24 tablesppons per gallon or it turns the hairs brown and you have to spray every 4-5 days unsless it rains and then retreat immediatley.

 

[hamstring]

Exactly Hamstring!...I've noticed that if a leaf that is damaged it will soon be destroyed by the fungus.
Vigor plays a big role too... i made a very similar post a few weeks ago... good to get some personal observations verified.
How do you think the sandy soil affects the plants/LS? Better aeration = improved vigor??

Strap
You hit the nail on he head aeration or better drainage however you want to look at it. I have about 12 plants in one area that has sandy soil and because it doesn’t hold the moisture as well and the disease needs moisture it really made a difference. I am not exaggerating when I say my other plot 30 yards away has LS (slightly) and nothing in the sandyone.






All of this goes out the window when you have conditions such as DS has but it takes a dry year to learn some of the variables of this disease. I think the real solution will have to be along the lines of what DS and others are working with which is a systemic fungicide like the Eagle 20. I am absolutely disgusted with the fact, and I know DS feels the same way, that we have turn to something like this but if we want to continue to be guerrillas it’s the only way until breeding catches up with the disease arms race. If someone wants to make a piss load of $$$ start breeding for LS disease resistant strains. I hang out at UDG and the canucks don’t seem to have this problem or at least not epidemic like we do and they are growing in BC and if I am correct they get some really wet years. Like to know what the difference is because their growing season is about the same as mine at 42 deg.

 

[0verkil13r]

I fear that I may have encountered leaf spot in my grow. What do you think?







Wish I could get better pics. This is the best I can do with the equipment available.

It is very hot and humid where these are and I am afraid it will spread quickly. In the 1st and last plants it has acted more quickly (about a week from initial signs). The 2nd plant has been affected more slowly (over a 3 week period).

There is also a much larger girl (12' +) that has these spots. Her leaves are getting spots & yellowing (sporadically). Every day I am pulling dead and dying foliage.

Originally, I thought this was a nutrient deficiency... now I am not so confident.

On my way to get some liquid copper now but, looking for a positive diagnosis.

 

[BasementBreeder]

overkill

All the pictures have it, although it's only just visible in the last one. Anyone else think the second picture looks like it has a leaf miner problem as well?

 

[0verkil13r]

Thank you BasementBreeder I will start the application tomorrow. Btw, I do have miners & have tried to keep them in check with neem and SM-90.

Hopefully, I can save this plant

She has lost a lot of leaves already (over the course of a month).


Luckily, I took cuttings early in the season. Even some of her clones outdoors seem unaffected.

Regardless, everyone OD is getting treatment.

I have thuricide, neem & liquid copper... and want to hit them with the trifecta. In what order should they be applied? Can they be mixed? Or, should they be rotated?

I am in a tropical climate and have just about every type of pest, fungi & bacterium just waiting for me to slip up so they can pounce. Few things are more disappointing than seeing your hard work decimated by a free-loading SOB.

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

Hey overkill. Hit them hard with 2.5 fluid ounces per gallon of water with the liquid copper and then hit them again about 3 days later with another dose. Hitting them hard and keeping after it can kill the disease. Easing into WONT kill it and is a mistake for so many reasons. Be agressive - the shit your fighting is.

Its important to cover all areas of the plant, undersides of leaves and top.

 

[StrapAssassin42]

Overkill,
Keep her sprayed with copper and you should be able to keep her healthy... u can spray up to 3 weeks before harvest. Spray after each rain or every 3 days like the Doc said.

My plot looks healthier than it has been all summer since i sprayed immunox about a week ago.
Hey Doc,
How do you plan to tell if your/our buds are safe after harvest? Then what!?

 

[0verkil13r]

1st application complete... 21 to go?

1st application complete... 21 to go?

BasementBreeder D.S. Toker. MD & StrapAssassin42 Thank you all for for your quick responses! It's hard to get answers in my thread.

hamstring Thank you for starting this thread. It's people like you, D.S. and many others out in the field (puttin in work) that keep people like me going. Through your dedication and research we have a fighting chance at beating this bastard.

As was recommended... I HIT EM HARD! Used about 10-11 ounces liquid copper @ 2.5-3 fl oz/gal. Took my time getting every surface on ALL plants. About 3 hours invested this morning. Looking at around 10 bottles of LC to finish this run as they are all between 2-3 weeks flowering.

Okay, I have a few more questions. Since this is strictly a fungicide, can I spray for pests between applications? It'd be a real p.i.t.a. to beat leaf spot only to have a caterpillar tearing up my buds from the inside.

Since you recommend to stop spraying LC @ 3 weeks prior to harvest what should be used for the remainder? Organicide?

I am running organic bagseed. So, there is no way to tell when they will finish exactly. I have 4 different strains... 2 appear indica dominant ... One, I know is a 10 week finisher. The other 2 sativa dom (if not pure) so, I'm banking on 14 weeks or so.

Any guess on when to quit copper application? Should I just wing it?

 

[0verkil13r]

Strap I believe he mentioned a water cure to rid the buds of any residuals/dirt/poop. Check page 4.

 

[RetroGrow]

I'm going to recommend aspirin. It boosts the plants immune system. I put it on my outdoor plants. Mix several aspirin tablets into each gallon of water and apply. Also leave aspirin tablets on the ground at the base of the plants so it will dissolve when it rains.
This will help against almost any disease.
Aspirin has the same stuff as willow trees, which might explain why you don't find much disease near willow trees.
Aspirin really works.
It is a miracle drug for plants, as plants use salicylates to fight disease. When their immune system is weakened, the plants salicylates are not strong enough to fight. But a dose of aspirin will boost the plants natural immune response.

 

[TokerOftheSouth]

If its wasnt for Hamstring making this post and D.S's help i dont think my season would be going so well, just wanna give a big THANK YOU aswell

Ive grown for around 5 yrs off and on now, and never knew how to treat this disease, i simply watched plants die at times, it was sad

This yr, i have lost 0, leaf spot and blight is everywhere in my area, veggy garden and its bad, so i know LC works, and GC is good i guess its working also

Asprin huh? sounds simple enuff, could b worth a try mayb

 

[hamstring]

BasementBreeder D.S. Toker. MD & StrapAssassin42 Thank you all for for your quick responses! It's hard to get answers in my thread.

hamstring Thank you for starting this thread. It's people like you, D.S. and many others out in the field (puttin in work) that keep people like me going. Through your dedication and research we have a fighting chance at beating this bastard.

As was recommended... I HIT EM HARD! Used about 10-11 ounces liquid copper @ 2.5-3 fl oz/gal. Took my time getting every surface on ALL plants. About 3 hours invested this morning. Looking at around 10 bottles of LC to finish this run as they are all between 2-3 weeks flowering.

Okay, I have a few more questions. Since this is strictly a fungicide, can I spray for pests between applications? It'd be a real p.i.t.a. to beat leaf spot only to have a caterpillar tearing up my buds from the inside.

Since you recommend to stop spraying LC @ 3 weeks prior to harvest what should be used for the remainder? Organicide?

I am running organic bagseed. So, there is no way to tell when they will finish exactly. I have 4 different strains... 2 appear indica dominant ... One, I know is a 10 week finisher. The other 2 sativa dom (if not pure) so, I'm banking on 14 weeks or so.

Any guess on when to quit copper application? Should I just wing it?

Overkill
When i was doing some research on Liquid Copper I found where it said that mixing this with a pesticide was fine it was right in the description I may have pasted it somewhere in his thread don’t remember. I have been mixing my LC and sevin each time I spray because I totally agree it doesn’t make sense to do this separately in my opinion. I really like the results as both sevin and liquid copper are thick sticky liquids and cling to the plant very well.
I am now on my mold regiment using a mixture Greencure and sevin but I cant recommend this to everyone because I dont have any data that says they work well together but I thought what the hell i would give it a try especially since greencure doesn’t seem to have any adhesion qualities maybe the sevin would help it stay in place. Again I want to warn everyone about this practice because greencure works based on PH changes, I believe, so the mixing it with sevin may diminish that attribute.

 

[TokerOftheSouth]

Walkabout Mr Nice,Finally flowering, nice and heathly due to LC applications( i mix Garant an insecticide with LC and ive seen no bad effects)

Ham, ive also been using a little GC (with Garant to keep grasshoppers and budworms at bay)in hopes i wont have mold since humidity has been around 80-90% all month and to keep the grasshoppers/budworms at bay

Ive now stoppd using LC, since humidity is down atm, and everything is finally into flower

 

[RetroGrow]

Hey guys, nice thread.
A couple other things I use on outdoor pants:
1. Bayer Advanced Disease Control. It is a systemic fungicide. Works 3 ways. Kills existing fungi, forms a protective barrier on the outside of the plant, and is absorbed into the plant to keep on protecting regardless of weather conditions. $12 @ Home Depot/Lowes.
2. On my outdoors, I spread diatomaceous earth around the bottoms of plants. Keeps insects away. Insects are often disease vectors.
3. A third product I use is Bonide Garden Dust. Noticed a marked difference after using it. It is an insecticide/fungicide dust. Contains pyrethrins, Sulfur (25%), and copper sulfate (5%). Bought @ Lowes. It's tinted green to blend in with foliage. Covered my plants with it, and also the ground @ base of plants. I had bugs munching on my plants, and after one application of this, not a bug in sight. The sulfur and copper kill fungi. If you're going to use spots again, cover the ground after harvest, and helps keep fungi down in the area for next season.

 

[tristynhawk]

When you guy's say immunox are you talking about the lawn care spray, i have seen at lowes and home depot.

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

Yes tristynhawk. Although the multi purpose concentrate is now approved for vegetables. If you google it you can read the label. I asked the local ace hardware guy why the bottles werent like the ones i was seeing on the internet for vegetables and he told me that it was a packaging issue. The company had only recently gotten the chemical approved for vegetables but the bottle on his shelf were from 2 cases he ordered last fall.

Use 1.5 fluid ounces per gallon Tristy and go heavy on it. You know, fill it up to your 1.5 mark and then add 1 dribble? It wont hurt the plants. I had one male plant that i intended to make a few seeds with and i hit it with 2 full ounces and the plant was fine so the stuff wont burn the plant. Its important that the first dose be a killing dose. Dont hold back.

 

[0verkil13r]

Immunity booster

Immunity booster

I had forgotten about the aspirin trick. My grandfather used to add a few tablets to his water can every few weeks. He said it took away their headaches. His plants were always full of vigor and I don't remember there being a pest problem either. I do believe he used sevin dust to keep the bugs at bay though.

Excellent tip RetroGrow

Here are some links for those that are interested
http://www.finegardening.com/how-to/qa/aspirin-cures-plant-headaches.aspx

http://www.plantea.com/plant-aspirin.htm

http://www.seattlepi.com/lifestyle/...Garden-Aspirin-is-good-remedy-for-1244711.php

It is important to stay between 250 & 500 milligrams per gallon or you risk burning the foliage. I added 650mg/gal and it seems that might've been a bit high dosage. Some of the smaller plants experienced more yellowing (I tend to go overboard sometimes).

I wanted to thank you all for your responses. +rep

So, it rained last night. Apparently not hard enough to wash off the residuals 'cause most leaves are still blue. I will stick with the schedule of every 3 days unless the copper washes off before then. With rain in the forecast (everyday) it looks like I'll be burning through the liquid copper.

This time they'll get a neem, thuricide & copper spray with no worries. Only every other to every third application.

Though it is still early, the disease does not seem to have progressed since the initial dousing. Thank goodness for the thread and all the helpful people here. I do have to mention the infected leaves appear to've dried up.

 

[RetroGrow]

I had forgotten about the aspirin trick. My grandfather used to add a few tablets to his water can every few weeks. He said it took away their headaches. His plants were always full of vigor and I don't remember there being a pest problem either. I do believe he used sevin dust to keep the bugs at bay though.

Excellent tip RetroGrow

Here are some links for those that are interested
http://www.finegardening.com/how-to/qa/aspirin-cures-plant-headaches.aspx

http://www.plantea.com/plant-aspirin.htm

http://www.seattlepi.com/lifestyle/...Garden-Aspirin-is-good-remedy-for-1244711.php

It is important to stay between 250 & 500 milligrams per gallon or you risk burning the foliage. I added 650mg/gal and it seems that might've been a bit high dosage. Some of the smaller plants experienced more yellowing (I tend to go overboard sometimes).

I wanted to thank you all for your responses. +rep

So, it rained last night. Apparently not hard enough to wash off the residuals 'cause most leaves are still blue. I will stick with the schedule of every 3 days unless the copper washes off before then. With rain in the forecast (everyday) it looks like I'll be burning through the liquid copper.

This time they'll get a neem, thuricide & copper spray with no worries. Only every other to every third application.

Though it is still early, the disease does not seem to have progressed since the initial dousing. Thank goodness for the thread and all the helpful people here. I do have to mention the infected leaves appear to've dried up.

Yup!
Aspirin really works.
The dosage that works for me is one or two 325 mg. tablets of generic aspirin (not coated or time release) per gallon. It boosts plants immune system, so is effective against almost any problem. It seems to work better on some strains than others.
It can be used as a foliar spray also.
It's one "old wives tale" that really delivers.

 

[tristynhawk]

Man this is my first crop in three years that hasn't been wrecked because of this plague and i didn't know why? Until i found this thread from a friend. But im excited already about next year because i feel confident i can keep em alive. I was discouraged from two years in a row of my gorgeous plant's withering away in a couple of weeks. These are my nicest plant's in three years since i first encountered this disease. You all helped me get these girl's to the finish line. Many were lost before i got a handle on it. But at least i have a weapon to use now..

Peace tristynhawk