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Dry Ice Hash

Iraganji

Member
the entire process took about 30 minutes, plus another 5 or 10 to clean up and put away equipment. This could be done in the field (literally) with a cooler full of dry ice and the appropriate bags or screening material. No water, no ice, no drying (or very little drying).

That's an excellent point Gila-Monster.
 

Ai Ze

Member
to get best dry ice hash, combine bubbleator, ice & dry ice, the trick ist to get the water below 0 C° , a few chunks within the pyramid bag and some outside of it, get the water slurry, milkshake like, that way the watersoluble terpens will stay within the trics, the endproduct ist translucent black, reddish, brown and bc of the watery terpens extremly jelly, honey like
 
C

Chamba

Nor am I an trying to or have ever supported the jabberings of the person claiming a 19gs outta 14g starting material, trimmings no less. In fact I am on the 1st page of this thread questioning the claim.

Questioning?? lol loudly ridiculing would be a way more appropriate reply to dumb shit claims like that...you are far too diplomatic.

most plant material rarely contains more than 15% of it's weight in resin heads, more often it's much lower. ...so any any dry sifting yields exceeding that number are due to contaminant..if not then feel free to call the Vatican for your beatification process to get underway..

For those claiming silly yields, please do yourself and your credibility a favor, use a weighing machine and magnifying glass to check out the starting material before, during and after working the material..as well as use magnification to check out what passes through the mesh(es).

a magnifying glass is the dry sifter's best assistant (along with a gentle technique and good quality cold starting material)... everything else is secondary when it comes to quality.

and don't get too hung up on yields, cos that's not where it's at...the starting material is what it is and once it's worked over screens, what goes in your pipe and how it's pleasure your head is where it's at.

Frozen material dry sifted in a cold environment can produce great quality....and while dry ice is good to use, it's not the miraculous second coming and won't help yield any more resin than what's on the material in the first place, nor (with all things being equal) will it produce any more resin or a purer result than other conventional dry sifting methods...if you have it handy, use it, if not simply pre-freeze your material and work it in short intervals (then re-freeze it) and you'll find the results will be the same.

Happy Exaggerating...errr, I mean Happy Hashing!
 
C

Chamba

the few youtube vids about dry sifting with dry ice do it all wrong as they use big chunks of dry ice.......I would suggest to grind the dry ice to a fine grit and mix this in with the plant material just prior to sifting, this would keep the frozen plant matter cold without breaking it up.

since large chunks of dry ice acts the same way that chunks of frozen rocks or metal would (cold = good, but pulverizes plant matter = bad) ..it might be a good idea to use dry ice in a different way...perhaps the dry ice (in a slab form) could be suspended a cm or half an inch above the pre-frozen plant material on a mesh so the cold drops down and helps keep the plant material cold (and dry), without pulverizing it (introducing contaminant to the resin that passes through the mesh(es)..and it goes without saying, that a gentle technique is where it's at when purity is your aim.
 
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ratdawgie

New member
Dry ice crush factor

Dry ice crush factor

the few youtube vids about dry sifting with dry ice do it all wrong as they use big chunks of dry ice.......I would suggest to grind the dry ice to a fine grit and mix this in with the plant material just prior to sifting, this would keep the frozen plant matter cold without breaking it up.

since large chunks of dry ice acts the same way that chunks of frozen rocks or metal would (cold = good, but pulverizes plant matter = bad) ..it might be a good idea to use dry ice in a different way...perhaps the dry ice (in a slab form) could be suspended a cm or half an inch above the pre-frozen plant material on a mesh so the cold drops down and helps keep the plant material cold (and dry), without pulverizing it (introducing contaminant to the resin that passes through the mesh(es)..and it goes without saying, that a gentle technique is where it's at when purity is your aim.

I think you're on the right track there Chamba... I played with this method yesterday with some very marginal leftovers I have been wanting to get used. The speed and production of a hash powder is incredible... but there is a moisture addition that happens making the result somewhat putty like and this does evap over time.
I also noticed the lack of terpene taste/ aroma on the earlier batches.
I was using a kief box and some 1-2 inch chunks... 3-4 in a 4x6 screen box with 120 mesh... no melt...just burn...effective though not very tasty... maybe a cure will help that... also better starting product.

I digress though... what I did notice was a very quick super freeze of all the material making it crush and powder very quickly as one might expect after being super frozen. One would think the impact of anything including chunks of dry ice would be..."bad". A gentle stimulation while super frozen would seem best... there is much research to be done I think on this level... maybe a tumbler with a center cage for the dry ice.

Also I think you hit it on the nose before... further refinement would yield the pure I assume with a later frozen run through a 73 screen. Or 90.

Or a tumbler in a temperature controlled freezer box.... or just one in a larger ice chest with dry ice in it off to one side...

back to "the lab"...lol. Funny how I only seem to remain focused on the tasks for about 2 hours... maybe I shouldn't sample while "labbing". LOL...peace to you brother... and to all ic-ers.
 

Psuper

Member
....it might be a good idea to use dry ice in a different way...perhaps the dry ice (in a slab form) could be suspended a cm or half an inch above the pre-frozen plant material on a mesh so the cold drops down and helps keep the plant material cold (and dry)....

Good stuff brother Chamba. Iam specifically interested in trying exactly what you mention here in a vibratory re-sieving setup.
 

ratdawgie

New member
The prime temperature

The prime temperature

...is I guess my next research question..... how cold do you need to go to break off as many trich heads as you can while minimizing the glass-like fracturing of the organic material (leaf, etc).

Could it be done KISS-like.. such as the prime distance of the slab/ chuncks of dry ice from the working material like Chamba illustrated.

I think I need to look through a little of brother Jump's (and others') threads discussing temp a little more, maybe get a good digital thermometer and another good eyepiece, and get er figured out.

9AM S N Pales and puffs of some "research".... oh the distractions of life!
 

huligun

Professor Organic Psychology
Veteran
I just made a batch, about two ounces of hash using the dry ice method.

Well, my method was really cheapskate. I used paint strainer clothe over a coffee can with a panty hose stretched over it too. Materials were about 10 buck US.

I had to make it in a hotel in the middle of the night... I will not bore you with the details too much, but it was my girls birthday and I had to take her to the beach at the last minute and that was after I bought the dry ice. A bunch of it melted (evaporated actually) buy the time I actually got around to making it. I will post a picture later, I am sort of paranoid right now and don't want any pictures of anything I am doing on my computer or phone.

Anyway.... I had a shit load of trim and small buds. Maybe 5lbs, I dunno. I ended up with two ounces and it was blond, no green. Everyone loved it and felt like it was something different. It smells pretty good in the bag. I never really pressed it. I just compressed it with my hands inside the bag. It held together pretty good. I just wanted to get rid of all that trim and I had to entertain my girl. I am in a hotel in the middle of the night shaking this can with dry ice in it. I tried to make a rhythmic sound so the neighbors might think we were fucking. It took a couple of hours.

I had to break up the ice, it was in a big block, cost me like $6. I had to fish out all the dry ice pieces out of the stuff between rounds. That was the biggest pain of all. I used my drivers license to move the stuff around and scoop it into the bag. If I got pulled over my license would give me away because it was all sticky and smelly lol. I need to get around to cleaning that thing up.
 
...is I guess my next research question..... how cold do you need to go to break off as many trich heads as you can while minimizing the glass-like fracturing of the organic material (leaf, etc).

Could it be done KISS-like.. such as the prime distance of the slab/ chuncks of dry ice from the working material like Chamba illustrated.

I think I need to look through a little of brother Jump's (and others') threads discussing temp a little more, maybe get a good digital thermometer and another good eyepiece, and get er figured out.

9AM S N Pales and puffs of some "research".... oh the distractions of life!

get ir thermometer.
 

huligun

Professor Organic Psychology
Veteran
I have made hash every way you can imagine and to me the best is the dry ice.
Not because of quality, because the BHO and other solvent hashes are the strongest. The dry ice hash looks like the old blond hash. It is easy to work with and the easiest to make. No chemicals, smells or fire hazards either. With Bubble Bags you have to go through all that mess and wait for the bags to drain, dry it out etc. With the dry ice it is ready to smoke the minute you do it.
 

kmk420kali

Freedom Fighter
Veteran
I had to break up the ice, it was in a big block, cost me like $6. I had to fish out all the dry ice pieces out of the stuff between rounds. That was the biggest pain of all.

I too found that to be the biggest pain-- I made over a pound in 6 hours....I cannot even tell you how much I love this method!!
BTW...yes, I am going quantity over quality...sorry, just Economics--:tiphat:
 

zachrockbadenof

Well-known member
Veteran
IWith Bubble Bags you have to go through all that mess and wait for the bags to drain, dry it out etc. With the dry ice it is ready to smoke the minute you do it.

agreeee:comfort: the only problem i found with dry ice is finding a large enought glass table to shake it over...
 

purple_man

Well-known member
Veteran
just put a plastic bag over your bubble bags, no need for a "collection" area, since all the glands and other material passing the screen will stay in there :)

blessss
 

huligun

Professor Organic Psychology
Veteran
agreeee:comfort: the only problem i found with dry ice is finding a large enought glass table to shake it over...

I just processed several pounds the other night on the table in a hotel. it was not that big. You don't need a big table at all. If you want to you can shake a pile for a little while, scoop it somewhere and then start shaking again. That way you can have grades of it.

Me, last batch I processed several pounds and only got two ounces. My hash it blond and beautiful. I never shake it that long to get to the green stuff. I just wanted to make some good stuff and get rid of all that herb as fast as I could.

Funny though, I tossed all the expired clippings in the hotel garbage can outside the back door. They were in trash bags and I piled some trash on top. I just wanted to be rid of it. I know those places have cams and stuff, so that was sort of dumb. All's well though. I am super paranoid about weight lately.
 
Have you guys seen the Moroccan film? Where they beat the shit out of bags of herb, with what looks like drum sticks? Was wondering what would happen if you added dry ice to this method.
 

actech

Member
only problem i see is the dry ice sitting on the herb. me thinks the herb would freeze to the ice and not release the resin glands. could be wrong though.
 

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