mrcreosote said:
this may be helpful
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=134356
different ways to calculate ppms and nutrient profiles, by hand, calculators, formulas
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By far and without a doubt, the least expensive conventional, synthetic fertilizers
this may be helpful
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=134356
different ways to calculate ppms and nutrient profiles, by hand, calculators, formulas
Thanks Sam,
that's exactly what I need to have is a gram to gallon figure so I can ballpark the silicone and Jacks cal/ nite to say 500 ppm or roughly half strength for rooted seedlings and clones and then full strengh or any fraction thereof for flowering. I will err on the side of caution towards lower e.c.'s anyway until I learn what they like.
So I convert their measure to gram weight and divide by 1000 to get a 1 gallon mix or by 100 for a ten gallon reservoir.
Even I can do that. See, I knew there was an easy answer to this deal. Sometimes it helps to have the obvious pointed out as a noob can tend to make things more difficult than they are.
You're a good teacher and I appreciate the help, thanks.
Mistress, Thanks as well for the links. Hopefully in that mix I can find some er...remedial reading. Ionic cation exchange and the like are going to be more useful with a more elementary education that I need first. Chemistry class was such a long time ago and I was always more interested in the girls with the tight sweaters than the teacher. Your posts sound like a micro-surgical brain operation and I'm watching with a tree-saw in my hand.
Hopefully I will eventually get there and will be able to pass something of value on to others as you folks have done for me.
Mistress... great article book site, thanks. Here it is for ppm for a target for nitrogen %. An interesting note he makes is that constant feed systems such as dwc and ntf should use half to 3/4 strengh ferts as reccommended for intermittent watering systems or hand-watering. This makes sense. Could be the reason people are burning plants by following manufacturers directions.
http://books.google.com/books?id=sp...se Math--Thinking in Parts Per Million&f=true
Good info on ph and meters below it too. Bookmarked.
that's exactly what I need to have is a gram to gallon figure so I can ballpark the silicone and Jacks cal/ nite to say 500 ppm or roughly half strength for rooted seedlings and clones and then full strengh or any fraction thereof for flowering. I will err on the side of caution towards lower e.c.'s anyway until I learn what they like.
So I convert their measure to gram weight and divide by 1000 to get a 1 gallon mix or by 100 for a ten gallon reservoir.
Even I can do that. See, I knew there was an easy answer to this deal. Sometimes it helps to have the obvious pointed out as a noob can tend to make things more difficult than they are.
You're a good teacher and I appreciate the help, thanks.
Mistress, Thanks as well for the links. Hopefully in that mix I can find some er...remedial reading. Ionic cation exchange and the like are going to be more useful with a more elementary education that I need first. Chemistry class was such a long time ago and I was always more interested in the girls with the tight sweaters than the teacher. Your posts sound like a micro-surgical brain operation and I'm watching with a tree-saw in my hand.
Hopefully I will eventually get there and will be able to pass something of value on to others as you folks have done for me.
Mistress... great article book site, thanks. Here it is for ppm for a target for nitrogen %. An interesting note he makes is that constant feed systems such as dwc and ntf should use half to 3/4 strengh ferts as reccommended for intermittent watering systems or hand-watering. This makes sense. Could be the reason people are burning plants by following manufacturers directions.
http://books.google.com/books?id=sp...se Math--Thinking in Parts Per Million&f=true
Good info on ph and meters below it too. Bookmarked.
"5-12-26 Hydroponic Product # 77251
THE fertilizer to use for hydroponic plant production. It is easily modified to fit specific crop needs and individual water qualities. Supplies magnesium and sulfur with 100% nitrate nitrogen."
According to the company site it doesn't need anything else to be effective, have I missed something as usual. Nice price on the 25 pounds wish I had some buddies to go in on this, comes out to $2.40 a pound including shipping to the SF Bay Area.
Medically compliant.
THE fertilizer to use for hydroponic plant production. It is easily modified to fit specific crop needs and individual water qualities. Supplies magnesium and sulfur with 100% nitrate nitrogen."
According to the company site it doesn't need anything else to be effective, have I missed something as usual. Nice price on the 25 pounds wish I had some buddies to go in on this, comes out to $2.40 a pound including shipping to the SF Bay Area.
Medically compliant.
Last edited:
BasementBreeder
Member
jump,
You're going to need some calcium nitrate (CaNO3) with that. It's sold separately because the calcium reacts with phosphorous and sulfur.
You're going to need some calcium nitrate (CaNO3) with that. It's sold separately because the calcium reacts with phosphorous and sulfur.
Sam,
Re-read the thread and your post # 23:
edit...i am currently running 2.5 grams per gal 5-12-26 and 1.7 grams of CaNitrate.
Don't know how I missed it but I did. Can't get anymore specific than that ...@70% recommended strength.
When the goods get here I'll mix a gallon with my tap water and by then my ec meter should be in hand to see what I end up with and adjust accordingly for ph and veg ec.
Always nice to have a proven start point to keep from learning the hard way. Make that first run with some cheap and forgiving strain to get a feel for the plant. I'm a living testimony of a breed that gave up farming too many generations ago to have much confidence in my ability to successfully grow plants.
My lawn survives mostly by it's own devices. The weeds love it when I fertilize it. The lawn ...? Doesn't seem to care.
Re-read the thread and your post # 23:
edit...i am currently running 2.5 grams per gal 5-12-26 and 1.7 grams of CaNitrate.
Don't know how I missed it but I did. Can't get anymore specific than that ...@70% recommended strength.
When the goods get here I'll mix a gallon with my tap water and by then my ec meter should be in hand to see what I end up with and adjust accordingly for ph and veg ec.
Always nice to have a proven start point to keep from learning the hard way. Make that first run with some cheap and forgiving strain to get a feel for the plant. I'm a living testimony of a breed that gave up farming too many generations ago to have much confidence in my ability to successfully grow plants.
My lawn survives mostly by it's own devices. The weeds love it when I fertilize it. The lawn ...? Doesn't seem to care.
orange juice
Member
delete
Anyone know anything about his product: seems to be a one part fert of nutes and calmag, ideal for hydro....
PETER'S EXCEL CAL-MAG 15-5-15
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
A well-known problem: soft water does not contain calcium or magnesium. These
nutrient elements, which are indispensable for plants, need to be provided by
fertilizers. Peters Excel ‘CalMag’ offers you a way of providing all these elements in
one go and improves your waterquality. This single-tank-mix is unique, simple and
very effective!
Scotts International B.V.,
Scotts Professional
P.O. Box 40, 4190 CA Geldermalsen,
The Netherlands
M-77 is an important component in Peters Excel. This Scotts innovation optimizes
the availability and absorbability of all nutrient elements according to the principle:
‘it is not just about what you offer a plant; it is primarily about what the plant
absorbs.’
PRODUCT ADVANTAGES PETERS EXCEL
Specially developed for use in soft water, unique in its effects.
Healthy growth due to continuous supply of calcium and magnesium
Reliable system due to selected raw materials and chelated trace elements
Perfect color and growth thanks to a high level of chelated trace elements
Maximum availability and absorbability thanks to M-77 chelating complex
Single-tank-mix concept: all nutrient elements in a single storage tank,
including calcium
DIRECTIONS FOR USE PETERS EXCEL CALMAG GROWER
Special formulation for use with soft water. The N:K ratio is aimed at growth.
Can be mixed with calcium nitrate. A ‘single-tank mix’ solution: contains all
necessary nutrients.
RECOMMENDED APPLICATION RATES
Continuous feeding 0,5 – 1,5 g/liter
Occasional feeding (e.g. 1 x week) 0,8 – 2,0 g/liter
To ensure that this product dissolves completely, prepare the stock solution 1-2
hours before use, stir well or use warm water.
Please contact us for a specific crop recommen
PETER'S EXCEL CAL-MAG 15-5-15
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
A well-known problem: soft water does not contain calcium or magnesium. These
nutrient elements, which are indispensable for plants, need to be provided by
fertilizers. Peters Excel ‘CalMag’ offers you a way of providing all these elements in
one go and improves your waterquality. This single-tank-mix is unique, simple and
very effective!
Scotts International B.V.,
Scotts Professional
P.O. Box 40, 4190 CA Geldermalsen,
The Netherlands
M-77 is an important component in Peters Excel. This Scotts innovation optimizes
the availability and absorbability of all nutrient elements according to the principle:
‘it is not just about what you offer a plant; it is primarily about what the plant
absorbs.’
PRODUCT ADVANTAGES PETERS EXCEL
Specially developed for use in soft water, unique in its effects.
Healthy growth due to continuous supply of calcium and magnesium
Reliable system due to selected raw materials and chelated trace elements
Perfect color and growth thanks to a high level of chelated trace elements
Maximum availability and absorbability thanks to M-77 chelating complex
Single-tank-mix concept: all nutrient elements in a single storage tank,
including calcium
DIRECTIONS FOR USE PETERS EXCEL CALMAG GROWER
Special formulation for use with soft water. The N:K ratio is aimed at growth.
Can be mixed with calcium nitrate. A ‘single-tank mix’ solution: contains all
necessary nutrients.
RECOMMENDED APPLICATION RATES
Continuous feeding 0,5 – 1,5 g/liter
Occasional feeding (e.g. 1 x week) 0,8 – 2,0 g/liter
To ensure that this product dissolves completely, prepare the stock solution 1-2
hours before use, stir well or use warm water.
Please contact us for a specific crop recommen
M
Milhouse
I have been using Scotts Professional Hydroponic Special with Calcium Nitrate for my current run and they are the most healthy looking plants i have ever run!! I have been using approx 1 tsp/gal of Scotts and 1/2 tsp/gal of Calc Nitrate. I have supplemented with some Cal-Mag I had lying around with the girl later in flower. Also a few supplements of RootBastic, had a small bottle lying around.
BrwnStickyThumb
Member
Hey guys, please tell me what do you think about this ferts!:
It's called Hakaphos Calcidic by Compo, can't find info but in spanish and portuguese so i'll won't link it and just write it's contents, there are various formulations but from what i've read here the most interesting should be what they call "Hakaphos Calcidic K-Max".
I'ts 10-15-28+6ca+1mgo, still can't understand how they mix ca+mg with the other components but it would be nice to avoid doing additional mixes, just one salt and ready to go...
Problem is it's sold in 25kg bags and don't know about it's availability to not commercial growers, the brand is everywhere but with their home&garden line. They also have some osmocote like controlled release ferts called basacote, which also seem interesting and relatable to cannabis growing.
It's called Hakaphos Calcidic by Compo, can't find info but in spanish and portuguese so i'll won't link it and just write it's contents, there are various formulations but from what i've read here the most interesting should be what they call "Hakaphos Calcidic K-Max".
I'ts 10-15-28+6ca+1mgo, still can't understand how they mix ca+mg with the other components but it would be nice to avoid doing additional mixes, just one salt and ready to go...
Problem is it's sold in 25kg bags and don't know about it's availability to not commercial growers, the brand is everywhere but with their home&garden line. They also have some osmocote like controlled release ferts called basacote, which also seem interesting and relatable to cannabis growing.
Yosemite, cant wait to see harvest pics of your grow brotha !!
Those plants looks really healthy, must see bud shots before I purchase the jacks/caln haha
Found info on the Brix mix, if this is what you use I think you may have your shit down pat sir. Idk if this is what you meant but here goes:
"Created by Peaceful Valley Farm & Garden Supply and continuously improved upon with over 16 years of research and grower trials. Formulated to increase Brix (or sugar content). Brix Mix contains carefully proportioned amounts of hydrolyzed fish powder, Omega 6-6-6, Maxicrop, Diamond K sulfate of potash, powdered sugar, Multi-Ke-Min trace minerals, Humax humic acids, sulfur, corn calcium and Therm X70 yucca extract. Raising Brix levels brings quick & dramatic production benefits. In trials, when applied correctly, we have seen yields increase over 25% after only 2 foliar applications. Insect and disease reduction for aphids, leafminers, flea beetles, whiteflies, spider mites, caterpillars, powdery mildew, botrytis, brown rot, anthracnose, shot hole and other fungi. High Brix also helps crops deal with climatic and other stress, and maintain its quality during post-harvest handling. Brix Mix includes a liquid and a powder component which must be used together. For an acre application, mix 10-12 lb of powder in 25-200 gallons of agitating warm water, add 1 gallon of liquid Brix Mix and spray while agitating. Rates per gallon are 3 tbs of liquid and 5 tbs of powder. Growers report best results when applied at least 3 or 4 times per crop at 3 to 4 lb of powder and 1 quart of liquid per acre per application. It is best to apply when Brix is low, soil is cool, during insect outbreaks or climatic stress, and at pre-bloom or flowering growth stages. To increase effectiveness, add 35% food-grade hydrogen peroxide and ascorbic acid (see Foliar Spray Enhancers section). Incompatible with Cherimoyas. Do not spray within a week of harvest as the residue could affect taste of the crop."
No need for this in early flower? Does it come in solely powder form?
sounds like a killer product, I wonder the Price per lb. Might have to get the brix mix, and jack/caln shipped to me.
After seeing you plants that is more pictures !!!!! and thoughts on using Drip Clean by H@G rather than bleach, makes me feel like im poisoning my plants with bleach ! haha cheers
No bloom additives huh? very interesting, any reasoning for this?? alfalfa, pk boost? no?
Those plants looks really healthy, must see bud shots before I purchase the jacks/caln haha
Found info on the Brix mix, if this is what you use I think you may have your shit down pat sir. Idk if this is what you meant but here goes:
"Created by Peaceful Valley Farm & Garden Supply and continuously improved upon with over 16 years of research and grower trials. Formulated to increase Brix (or sugar content). Brix Mix contains carefully proportioned amounts of hydrolyzed fish powder, Omega 6-6-6, Maxicrop, Diamond K sulfate of potash, powdered sugar, Multi-Ke-Min trace minerals, Humax humic acids, sulfur, corn calcium and Therm X70 yucca extract. Raising Brix levels brings quick & dramatic production benefits. In trials, when applied correctly, we have seen yields increase over 25% after only 2 foliar applications. Insect and disease reduction for aphids, leafminers, flea beetles, whiteflies, spider mites, caterpillars, powdery mildew, botrytis, brown rot, anthracnose, shot hole and other fungi. High Brix also helps crops deal with climatic and other stress, and maintain its quality during post-harvest handling. Brix Mix includes a liquid and a powder component which must be used together. For an acre application, mix 10-12 lb of powder in 25-200 gallons of agitating warm water, add 1 gallon of liquid Brix Mix and spray while agitating. Rates per gallon are 3 tbs of liquid and 5 tbs of powder. Growers report best results when applied at least 3 or 4 times per crop at 3 to 4 lb of powder and 1 quart of liquid per acre per application. It is best to apply when Brix is low, soil is cool, during insect outbreaks or climatic stress, and at pre-bloom or flowering growth stages. To increase effectiveness, add 35% food-grade hydrogen peroxide and ascorbic acid (see Foliar Spray Enhancers section). Incompatible with Cherimoyas. Do not spray within a week of harvest as the residue could affect taste of the crop."
No need for this in early flower? Does it come in solely powder form?
sounds like a killer product, I wonder the Price per lb. Might have to get the brix mix, and jack/caln shipped to me.
After seeing you plants that is
more pictures !!!!! and thoughts on using Drip Clean by H@G rather than bleach, makes me feel like im poisoning my plants with bleach ! haha cheersNo bloom additives huh? very interesting, any reasoning for this?? alfalfa, pk boost? no?
Carl Carlson, where art thou?
Y
YosemiteSam
Brix mix was by Peaceful Valley Farms but, unfortunately, they are no longer making it. The formula for it is posted in Tom Hill's forum somewhere.
As far as a flower boost...here is my opinion. When you have a well balanced formula like Jack's/CaNO3 and you add, say MKP to it for a flower boost...do you still have a balanced overall formula.
From memory I think that base formula has K:Ca:Mg ratios of close to 4:2:1. So now you stick K and P in there. That extra K could lock out Ca and/or Mg and you will see deficiencies.
That is a real concern...not merely theoretical.
If everything looks good and you think you need a boost then just up the concentration. That allows you to maintain proper ratios.
If you wanna hold N levels while raising K and P then it gets a little more complicated. Along with K and P you would also need to raise Ca and Mg...but, obviously, not with any of the CalMag products that contain N.
Anyways, all of that is why I went to raw salts. It allows me to run whatever ratios at whatever ppms my twisted brain can dream up.
Is that a good thing...highly debatable, but the road I have chosen regardless.
As far as a flower boost...here is my opinion. When you have a well balanced formula like Jack's/CaNO3 and you add, say MKP to it for a flower boost...do you still have a balanced overall formula.
From memory I think that base formula has K:Ca:Mg ratios of close to 4:2:1. So now you stick K and P in there. That extra K could lock out Ca and/or Mg and you will see deficiencies.
That is a real concern...not merely theoretical.
If everything looks good and you think you need a boost then just up the concentration. That allows you to maintain proper ratios.
If you wanna hold N levels while raising K and P then it gets a little more complicated. Along with K and P you would also need to raise Ca and Mg...but, obviously, not with any of the CalMag products that contain N.
Anyways, all of that is why I went to raw salts. It allows me to run whatever ratios at whatever ppms my twisted brain can dream up.
Is that a good thing...highly debatable, but the road I have chosen regardless.
LittleAmsterdam
Member
Dyna-Gro
I'm glad he left his posts when he deleted his account.
I miss him.
Thanks yosemitesam.
With just jacks and calcium nitrate, do you ever experience a lack of Magnesium? I suppose one could just add epsom salts to correct this if if were to happen (tap water vs. RO and strain/enviro also play a part?)
Question, I love Drip Clean, I believe it prevents lockouts and deficiencies due to salt buildup or improper ratios or shitty quality coco.
Should I just use bleach instead?
And I was thinking of just getting the GH or Botanicare coco bales shipped to me because they are cheaper, and less shady than buying ten bags of Canna Coco from the hydro whore stores.
Lastly, any thoughts on amending the coco with lava rock (possibly broken up to make it similar in size to chuncky perlite) to increase porosity in the medium?
I will go with smart pots as you do, a good chunky coco, and maybe some lava rock in there and super oxygenated solution drip feeding the plants jacks/calnit for greatness!
With just jacks and calcium nitrate, do you ever experience a lack of Magnesium? I suppose one could just add epsom salts to correct this if if were to happen (tap water vs. RO and strain/enviro also play a part?)
Question, I love Drip Clean, I believe it prevents lockouts and deficiencies due to salt buildup or improper ratios or shitty quality coco.
Should I just use bleach instead?
And I was thinking of just getting the GH or Botanicare coco bales shipped to me because they are cheaper, and less shady than buying ten bags of Canna Coco from the hydro whore stores.
Lastly, any thoughts on amending the coco with lava rock (possibly broken up to make it similar in size to chuncky perlite) to increase porosity in the medium?
I will go with smart pots as you do, a good chunky coco, and maybe some lava rock in there and super oxygenated solution drip feeding the plants jacks/calnit for greatness!
BrwnStickyThumb
Member
What about doing an A & B NPK-CalNit concentrates so you can just put X ml to a liter/gal of each and still getting the correct ppms??
I was trying to do the maths yesterday but I'm just bad at maths... My calculations lead me to this: 200g/l NPK & 120g/l calnit dissolutions that I can use at a 5ml/l rate of each to equal in the "final solution" the said 3,6g+2,4g per liter. How wrong am I? Could I double the salts dissolved to divide the dosage, say 2,5ml/l or even less? Should I stick to a commercial bottled thing and stop messing around before I kill my plants??
I was trying to do the maths yesterday but I'm just bad at maths... My calculations lead me to this: 200g/l NPK & 120g/l calnit dissolutions that I can use at a 5ml/l rate of each to equal in the "final solution" the said 3,6g+2,4g per liter. How wrong am I? Could I double the salts dissolved to divide the dosage, say 2,5ml/l or even less? Should I stick to a commercial bottled thing and stop messing around before I kill my plants??
Y
YosemiteSam
Thanks yosemitesam.
With just jacks and calcium nitrate, do you ever experience a lack of Magnesium? I suppose one could just add epsom salts to correct this if if were to happen (tap water vs. RO and strain/enviro also play a part?)
I never had a problem
Question, I love Drip Clean, I believe it prevents lockouts and deficiencies due to salt buildup or improper ratios or shitty quality coco.
I do not believe in that stuff at all...less I had some drip lines to clean out. I would prefer not to say why though...just stay out of this one.
Should I just use bleach instead?
If you want a sterile environment that would work. I do not do that anymore...I have come to like microbiology
And I was thinking of just getting the GH or Botanicare coco bales shipped to me because they are cheaper, and less shady than buying ten bags of Canna Coco from the hydro whore stores.
Lastly, any thoughts on amending the coco with lava rock (possibly broken up to make it similar in size to chuncky perlite) to increase porosity in the medium?
I think it would work fine if that is what you want to do. My opinion is that coco is open enough without it. Once the plant has established roots it would be hard to under oxygenate it. I do not like throwing out stuff that will never decompose unless I have to.
I will go with smart pots as you do, a good chunky coco, and maybe some lava rock in there and super oxygenated solution drip feeding the plants jacks/calnit for greatness!
But those are just my opinions
Appreciate that, Yosemitesam.
Jacks/Calnit at 1:.66 ratio. Adjust strength as needed, ya?
I will be using a drip system w/ the Drip Clean, but ill leave the rest of that topic alone as you suggested.
Lastly, what is your feed frequency in flower, as in, do you feed multiple times per day at a lower strength (ie: 750ppm) to increase yield, or ..?
Do us a huge favor and post final bud shots n' weight, so very excited. Thank you.
Jacks/Calnit at 1:.66 ratio. Adjust strength as needed, ya?
I will be using a drip system w/ the Drip Clean, but ill leave the rest of that topic alone as you suggested.
Lastly, what is your feed frequency in flower, as in, do you feed multiple times per day at a lower strength (ie: 750ppm) to increase yield, or ..?
Do us a huge favor and post final bud shots n' weight, so very excited. Thank you.
Y
YosemiteSam
I have a journal here http://www.gardenscure.com/420/hydroponic-grow-journals/140577-yos-15kw-medical-grow.html
I have switched to raw salts but I think there is some hydro special/cano3 stuff in it.
I have switched to raw salts but I think there is some hydro special/cano3 stuff in it.
