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List your current nute mix.

OjoRojo420

Feeling good is good enough.
Veteran
You don't know Jack!

You don't know Jack!

Hello,

If you substitute Tomato for Cannabis Jack's Classic website has a nice regime for little home growers.

http://www.jacksclassic.com/tomato.pdf

Just do some common sense modifications and keep it in the low side.
I would start using 1/4 (about 400ppm) of what they suggest and move up accordingly.

Also, if using soiless mix (peat moss based media) keep ph between 5.8 and 6.2 PH.

The use and combination of simple 20-20-20, 10-30-20 (dynamic duo LOL) and Epson Salt (Magnesium Sulfate) works and is cheap as hell.

Ojo
 
Last edited:
G

Guest 18340

Maxibloom or Lucas formula (8/16) and some powder koolbloom a week before flush. Simple :)
 

analogue

Member
per gallon of tap water*:

calcium nitrate - 1.9 grams
magnesium nitrate - 1.0 grams
mono Potassium phosphate - 1.0 grams
magnesium sulfate - 1.0 grams
potassium sulfate - 0.8 grams
micro nutrient mix - 0.1 grams
AgSil 16H potassium silicate - 0.7 grams
sulfuric acid (14%) - 1.2 ml.

N....108
P.....60
K....214
Ca..111
Mg...56
S.....74
Si.....98

EC=1.60

K : N - 1.99
K : Ca - 1.94
Ca : Mg - 1.97

*includes tap water analysis
 

dansbuds

Retired from the workforce Bullshit
ICMag Donor
Veteran
For those using MaxiBloom,
Do you use the MaxiGrow or MaxiBloom durring the veg cycle?
Just the maxibloom @ 1tsp per gallon of water .... thats it (lucas)


my nutes are ...per gallon
maxibloom 1 tsp
protekt 1/2 tsp as a PH up & the sugars of course :)
koolbloom last week before the flush
&1 tsp of epsom salts cuz i run RO water .
was thinkin about PK 13/14 for the mid flower but doesn't look like its needed .... i'm at 5th week now with no def signs :)


growem green & stay safe ....Dans
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Botanicare complete line

Bloom Organic
Veg Organic
Liquid Karma
Sweet
Cal/mag
canna pk 13/14
 

farmdalefurr

I feel nothing and it feels great
Veteran
per gallon of tap water*:

calcium nitrate - 1.9 grams
magnesium nitrate - 1.0 grams
mono Potassium phosphate - 1.0 grams
magnesium sulfate - 1.0 grams
potassium sulfate - 0.8 grams
micro nutrient mix - 0.1 grams
AgSil 16H potassium silicate - 0.7 grams
sulfuric acid (14%) - 1.2 ml.

N....108
P.....60
K....214
Ca..111
Mg...56
S.....74
Si.....98

EC=1.60

K : N - 1.99
K : Ca - 1.94
Ca : Mg - 1.97

*includes tap water analysis


:clock watch:
 
L

laylow

VEG
Canna coco A&B
Cannazym
GH Silicon
Hesi SuperVit
Dutch Pro Take Root
H&G Drip Clean


Flower
Canna coco A&B
Cannazym
GH Silicon
Hesi SuperVit
AN Carbo Load
Dutch Pro Explode
H&G Shooting powder
H&G Drip Clean
GH Ripen
 

Cannabologist

Active member
Veteran
- I’ve been playing around with soil mixes and a few different nutrient lines based off of what I’ve read people say here.

- I started with LC’s mix as a base but found it ran out of gas early on, usually a gallon or 2 of LC’s mix amended with blood and bone only lasts about 3 to 4 weeks for good growth on it’s own. Even more will run out of steam too fast for vegging or flowering with just water. I do like it, it works, for a short time, before you need to transplant, have cal/mag issues, nitrogen issues, etc. from deficiencies.

- I have been taken note of what to me seem to be a few proven soil mixes, like Tom Hill’s, and hybridized that with LC’s to find something that will steadily provide a good stream of nutrients without running out of gas or causing deficiencies over a decent course of time.

- My last soil mix I loved greatly, and would like to mix up a batch again and see how it goes, maybe try using even more than what I did. My idea is/was to load up the soil with amendments as much as possible to provide for lots of stuff “in the ground” without needing to add supplemental fertilizers and EWC tea too much but still keep things free of lockout and burn, especially in the early stage of transplant with small plants. I was skeptical, and worried I would burn plants at first, but they LOVED it, and made me wish I went a little harder, as I originally intended, but felt a little skittish of, thinking perhaps too many amendments in the soil, because my amounts of additives will make it quite rich, but it worked wonders.

The basic LC mix is basically -
5 Parts moss/ 6 parts pro mix
3 parts perlite/ 2 parts perlite
2 parts ewc

- I cut the top off a gallon bottle, gives pretty much a gallon, and use that for a part. Works very very well for measuring out your bases, just make sure to pat and pack stuff down and get out the air.

- I upped the lime to 3 tbs per gallon + a few extra tablespoons I believe to top off. I still think I want more. I want at least 4 tbs per gallon I feel, if not more. Cannabis loves calcium, and I always notice cal mag issues quickly arise in smaller pots (rootbound issues I believe, yes?.. Seems to be the case in my experience). And the lime is a great buffer, between that and ewc, it does a good job of keeping other things from burning it seems…

- I could have gone with blood meal, and I have previously noticed that one could easily up the blood meal in LC’s mix to 3 or 4 tbs per gallon with good results and without running out of N so soon (Same for bone).
- I instead used chicken manure. (chickidy doo doo 3-2-2) as I wished to work on something similar to tom hill’s mix instead of blood meal.
- I used 3 tbs per gallon plus 3 or so extra tablespoon toppers. Sometimes I like to top off a little extra of any particular nute, or subtract a few tbs, by sight as I feel a base of X per 1 gallon doesn’t give quite enough of what I want and the versatility I would also like, so we can do a little math with it and still keep a consistent soil mix and amendment recipe every time, until I find something I feel comfortable with (even though adding only a few tablespoons to top off isn’t really adding that much).

- I really would have liked to use 4 tbs, ideally up to 6 tbs per gallon chicken manure, but I was looking at all this chicken shit in my bin while mixing and worried about burn. That happened for all amendments, but next time I won’t be so worried with going at least 4 tbs I think, and if I can get up the nerve, I’ll use 5 to 6 tbs per gallon…
- BTW, love chicken shit. Sold. Note to self – RAISE CHICKENS! They are fucking adorable as chickadees, want to eat them yummm (no no… We’ll wait till they are bigger ;) )you get fresh eggs, they are fun and funny, tasty, and their shit grows great plants. Done!

- I used bone as well, upped from LC’s 2 tbs to 3 tbs per gallon (can’t remember, or don’t think I added or subtracted anything as a topper… Next time, will take better note of what exactly I do). Again would have liked more, 4 tbs per gallon as a standard I think, and ideally chicken at 6 tbs per gallon. I also wanted to make my mix closer in the N ratio to tom hills, than LC’s is concerning P, as studies show Cannabis doesn’t really need much P, but does need lots of N (and K, and Ca), and LC’s calls for 1 tbs blood, 2 tbs bone, 1 tbs kelp, 1 tbs greensand I believe.
- I could have subbed bone meal for the high P bat guano, but it’s expensive, and the Tom Hill mix used bone meal, and I do add in some guano, later on that.

- Well I used 2 tbs powdered maxicrop kelp per gallon of soil. Again can’t say anything bad about any kind of fish nute. Weed loves nutes made out of fish (which I often use in a veg regimen.. Stinky to mix but very nice, you will have lush green plants that can’t burn with fish for the most part, but you need to add Epsom salt or cal mag for ca/mg). I would definitely have liked to go up to 3 tbs, even 4 tbs per gallon if I had enough, but fuck me that shit is expensive and it goes quick. I would like to use epsoma brand and try them and see if there is any difference, their kelp is 1-0-2, and much cheaper, maxicrop is 1-0-4.. Is that extra 2 K worth the price LOL? A huge bag of epsoma for less than 10, and megabucks for even tiny bags of maxicrop…. Someone’s jacking prices LOL.

- Greensand. 2 tbs per gallon plus 2 tbs or more added on to top off. What can I say. I am a madman. I would like 3 tbs greensand per gallon perhaps with no top off. What can I say. I am a madman.

- 2 tbs gypsum per gallon of soil. Maybe would use 3 tbs per gallon next time, subtracting a few tablespoons at the end, maybe 2 to 4 tbs so as to not over do it.

- I added about 3-4 tbs high P jamacian bat guano per ~5 gallons of soil for some flavor LOL.

- I don’t think I like pro mix and would go with the base version of LC that instead uses moss as a base. Its costly, and I donno, I don’t think it does plants as good as sphagnum peat moss you can get cheap from home depot, which is surprising cause pro mix has added stuff in it... For a bail of either, one is like less than 10 dollars and the other sometimes well over 30 or 40. Same amount of shit, do the math. I’ll buy a little extra perlite for the moss I think.

- Would like to try adding azomite to this mix, have heard great things, but I can’t find it in stores. Oh well. This is complicated but simple enough. I don’t know if I would use this soil on seedlings, but clones love it well enough. I imagine seedlings would do find and not burn.

- I also want to try an amended Fafard 30 mix, adding in chicken, bone, gypsum, some lime, greensand, etc, something like that, reading Spurr had a few good words about that soil.

- Summary:

5 parts moss
3 parts perlite
2 parts ewc

1 part = 1 gallon for me

3 tbs lime per gallon + a few (would just use 4 tbs per gallon next time standard)
2 tbs gypsum per gallon (still want to play with this, maybe higher, maybe lower, depending on results)
2 tbs greensand + 2 tbs on top. (Want 3 tbs per gallon standard me thinks.)

3 tbs chicken manure per gallon plus 3 or more on top (Want 4-6 tbs standard. I’ll see what I think the mix can handle next time, 6 may be pushing it..)
3 tbs bone meal. (Up to 4 tbs if I add more chicken. Probably yes.)
2 tbs powdered kelp per gallon. (Want 3 tbs per gallon standard. I’ll try it next time.)
3-4 tbs high P Jamaican bat guano per ~5 gallons soil

- I primarily use Alaska fish for veg and keep the NH fish, fish and seaweed, and seaweed stocked and use as I feel. I will generally always add in the 0-0-1 seaweed with some Alaska 5-1-1 fish. Epsom salts can be added, but I like the consistency of Botanicare Cal/mag+ for cal/mag problems, as well as it’s other additives, and Dyna Gro’s ProTeKt. Keeping up with plants and going lighter than you need with slightly increased waterings if necessary has served well. Less is often more.

- The fish ferts for veg are piss poor easy to use, and generally cheap, just stinky, wear gloves, don’t get on skin or clothes, or it smells funky. NH doesn’t pack enough punch for flowering IMO though, smooth smoke definitely, but it won’t give really weighty flowers.
- The Alaska fish or 0-0-1 I don’t even really measure, I’ll pour whatever of the Alaska into a jug with water by sight and some 0-0-1. Not too much 0-0-1 though, but not just a small amount, about the recommended dose I’m sure. Sometimes since the fish is heavy and will settle on the bottom of anything quickly, as I use the liquid on top, I’ll add more clean h20 back and let it dilute a little more.

- I could piss on 20-20-20 like any other person, it works really well. If I wanted to just go cheap, simple, chem, I’d get a good 20-20-20. But I’m not doing that. Would like to try the KISS method too. Sounds very nice. Went through the whole thread and a few others following the method. Peoples’ pictures of their plants always seem to have this little bit of extra frosty crust than others.. But it does need some addition for yield I think for most. People use the kool bloom. Yeah but it would seem to me to be ideal it needs something even more than that perhaps.. Or not if dialed in with some people’s though perhaps. Every time too though, I am sure strain and overall genetics is what accounts for those eye popping pictures people see and ask “how DID that get so big?”. Yes, nutrients can do a lot, but ultimately I feel it is genetics, you need a heavy hitter for those massive 2 liter bottle sized colas, those are the fine cultivars not to lose.

- I’m a big fan of teas, bubbled EWC tea with some other stuff always does plants right. But bubbling is a pain in the ass, you have to wait till it’s ready, do it right, ideally check for microbes, they can go bad and smell funky, etc., I have learned that in any event simplicity is best and to try for that, so I am trying to cut out having to bubble nutrients or teas. Instead, I am doing top dressing, which when I think about it, is probably better anyway and will work just as good as any tea, and is actually reproducing what would naturally happen in nature, shit gets plopped on the ground/soil/detritus, and is broken down and worked into the soil as rain washes over this composting matter. So I will topdress EWC, guanos, whatever can be top dressed that I know of and is needed. There should be a thread on nutrients you can use with teas and mix with soil and top dress, those that can’t be bubbled and just mixed in or just dressed, etc., It would help people out, as I’ve had to piece mail the info I know about how to use which properly.. That and plenty of other info of course. There never seems to be enough.

- People go crazy about nutes, I think good air circulation and air flow over plants is very important to getting good large full buds, in addition to the killer genetics.

- Big containers with full drainage, try for no standing water. I find even 5 gallons just use up their base nutrients too quickly, but only so much can be done.
 

heshani1999

New member
The soil mix is very important to the growing of the plant.Too much water also not good like that too much nutritious also not good.
 
Been running this for a while, my plants love it. All ratios are per gallon. Plants are in hempy buckets
veg: GH flora micro@ 5ml. GH flora grow@ 2ml. GH floralicious plus@ 1ml. Dyna-grow protek@ 1ml. Adjust pH to 5.9-6.1
flower: GH flora micro@ 5ml. GH flora grow@ 2ml. GH flora bloom@ 10ml. GH liquid koolbloom@ 5ml. GH floralicious plus@ 1ml. Dyna-grow protek@ 1ml. GH floranecter@ 5ml. Adjust pH to 5.9-6.1
 

spurr

Active member
Veteran
Below will be my current test mix (from veg to harvest), IMO one of the best mixes from off the shelf bottles; beats the pants off the pH/Lucas mix I used before.

I haven't use Dutch Master Gold Range Silica before, only Dyna-Gro Pro-TeKt ...

For my current fertilizer charts as of 2011-06-03, see this post HERE. Charts have values for lots of various mixes of General Hydroponics Flora series, CalMag Plus, Pro-TeKt, Gold Range Silica, Epsom Salt, etc., incl. heavy metals, etc.

I will be starting this mix next week, I had to change from Dyna-Gro Pro-TeKt (at 2.5 ml gallon) to Dutch Master Gold Range Pro (7.5 ml gallon). I had to use much more Gold Range Silica than Pro-TeKt to provide about the same ppm of Si (i.e., ~29 ppm) due to Pro-TeKt (7.8% SiO2) vs Gold Range Silica (5% H4O4Si).


picture.php

picture.php
 

krunchbubble

Dear Haters, I Have So Much More For You To Be Mad
Veteran
Current test mix (from veg to harvest), IMO one of the best possible mixes from off the shelf bottles (beats the pants off the pH/Lucas mix I used before):

picture.php

your chart confuses me, mind explaining it a tad more?
 

spurr

Active member
Veteran
In between fertigations I use high quality (the best) fulvic acid ("FulPower") and humic acid ("HumiSolve"), as well as cool processed kelp extract and vermicompost/vermicast extract (using 20 then 10 or 5 micron filter bags). Occasionally I apply fish hydrolysate as well as aerated compost tea.

With fertigations I use the fulvic acid and sometimes humic acid.

I made the charts below so a grower can try various combinations (in terms of application rate) of the listed fertilizers to find what they think is ideal for their plants, in terms of elemental ppm, total ppm, ratios of 2 elements and relativity of 3 elements (ex., K|Ca|Mg).

Ex., one could add up say, the ppms from 6 ml GH Micro, 5 ml GH Grow, 8 ml GH Bloom, 2 ml CalMag+, 3 ml ProTeKt and 1 g Epsom salt (or other combinations thereof); and then find ratios, etc. All the fertilizers need not be used; ex., one doesn't have to use ProTeKt or Epsom.

In that screen shot the blue highlighted columns are my current test mix (re application rate per gallon) and the relevant ppms of elements from the fertilizers at the listed application rate. The green highlighted column under "Totals (ppm)" lists the total elemental ppm of my current mix when all ferts are added together. The other green highlighted column under "Ratios (":1" is assumed)" is the the 2 element ratios (ex., NO3:NH4, NO3:S, K:Mg, etc.) as well as 3 element relativity (ex., N|P|K and K|Ca|Mg) of my mix as compared to the same from the pH/Lucas mix. The orange highlighted text/numbers is the total ppm of my mix per element as compared to the total ppm of the pH/Lucas mix per element.


With Pro-TeKt:

picture.php




With Dutch Master Gold Range Silica:

picture.php
 

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