med-mans medical film technique

[the med man]

day 7 veg

day 7 veg

so all the plants have hydrolized. its a term ive always used for plants when they get over the water and lumen shock. all leads look like hands praying, stalk can double in girth over night, especially where it meets th 3" rw. there a pic from day 1 roots, they are just starying to poke thru the rw. 7 days later they are blowing out the bottom. plants have doubled in mass in 7 days as they should. now that they are on a roll, look out, we will be getting aeroponic growth rates,

mm

 

[the med man]

day 7 veg.

day 7 veg.

so heres some plants, busting roots, set flow valve, and a flow pic of the slow but very steady stream. ive also switched from all mh to all hps now for a week, as it was all mh the first 7 days. week 3 will be all lights on then hopefully start flowering. we will see what happens, the first pic is planting day. notice 3 lil roots just emerging, the next root pics are 7 days later. the tller plant is a conkushion and the shorter is med-mans headband. i may be adding gas at day 14 as well, always let the plants decide, never force something do do what they wont, that is bas stress, the med-man method is all about manipulating the planys immune system with good stress.....

mm

 

[the med man]

shock ripening

shock ripening

the shock method can also be used to ripen plants faster. lets say you have a 10 week strain, you are in week 8, and have to chop in 7 days, shock ripen to get the most out of your plants for the last week, trust me,

mm

 

[ImaginaryFriend]

Thanks for all the time posting and clarifying.

But I still need a bit more:

In forcing 36 hours of darkness, the idea is that photosensitive hormones are stacking within the plant in such a way as to trigger a more immediate flowering response.

If I'm not mistaken, you describe having plants at a three week flower state representing in just two weeks of 12-12.

In cold shocking/light starving, you're suggesting knocking another week off the tail end of a strain through stress response.

Is it fair to presume that (1.) there is a sacrifice in overall plant size by shortening the stretch period at the onset of flower, and (2.) some kind of sacrifice in total mass at harvest (with an offsetting increase in maturity), or is the plant somehow overcoming these outcomes through some kind of stress responses?

(I presume that effects of #1 can be managed by adjusting veg times.)

(Is it fair to presume these techniques should be used cautiously with plants of less than stable genetics?)

 

[DigDuggreen]

Im actually in that very predickament with and ebb n flow. I have 8 blueberry's a purple kush and a blueberry trainwreck, the blueberry's are going to be ready around week 8 to flush. the purple kush Im guessing should be ready about the same judging by its genetics. the btw looks like it wants to go for at least 10 weeks. so heres what I'm thinking, at the end of week 8, Im going to flush for 10 days, making each day 30 minutes shorter. after the 10 days of flush, i will then pull the plug on the light and bath my plants in ice chilled water every three hours for 3 days with out any light interruptions. cross my fingers and hope for the best. how does that sound to you MM

 

[the med man]

the way i see it is you get an extra week of flowering, becuase they start popping after 7 days subject to strain, and its something ive practiced for over 12 years, so its more then just a big idea.

activating the plants immune system gets you more yield and quality in less time, that has always been my goal, increase efficiency, especially being crippled by spinal cord injury. if you can get an extra crop a year, and increase the yield of every crop, that is called taking care of business. my shock therapies are not here to appeal to the rational mind, but to be set into practice ). as they may seem unreasonable on the surface, they make sense for a plant whos whole existence and survival is based on their immune system. plants can stretch up to 6-12 inches subject to strain and nutrients in 36 hours, and resin has a higher density then plant matter once dried, so the more resin the more weight and quality, no loss there, peace

mm

Thanks for all the time posting and clarifying.

But I still need a bit more:

In forcing 36 hours of darkness, the idea is that photosensitive hormones are stacking within the plant in such a way as to trigger a more immediate flowering response.

If I'm not mistaken, you describe having plants at a three week flower state representing in just two weeks of 12-12.

In cold shocking/light starving, you're suggesting knocking another week off the tail end of a strain through stress response.

Is it fair to presume that (1.) there is a sacrifice in overall plant size by shortening the stretch period at the onset of flower, and (2.) some kind of sacrifice in total mass at harvest (with an offsetting increase in maturity), or is the plant somehow overcoming these outcomes through some kind of stress responses?

(I presume that effects of #1 can be managed by adjusting veg times.)

(Is it fair to presume these techniques should be used cautiously with plants of less than stable genetics?)

 

[the med man]

hey buddy,

i would feed them every hour or two. train wreck dom type plants can ripen over night. although 10-12 weeks is recommended, i have the arcata tw and after week 10 res change (flush) she turns red, purple and auburn within 36 hours, so i wouldnt be worried about here being under ripe. remember over watering can and is a part of shock ripening. in the mfts i turn the flow to high, and they explode with growth and resin, uoc, anyone who thinks or says frost/root shock will not activate the plants resin/terpenes has never grown in the wild before. you will enjoy, just make sure your dehu or outake is set to high/constant

mm

Im actually in that very predickament with and ebb n flow. I have 8 blueberry's a purple kush and a blueberry trainwreck, the blueberry's are going to be ready around week 8 to flush. the purple kush Im guessing should be ready about the same judging by its genetics. the btw looks like it wants to go for at least 10 weeks. so heres what I'm thinking, at the end of week 8, Im going to flush for 10 days, making each day 30 minutes shorter. after the 10 days of flush, i will then pull the plug on the light and bath my plants in ice chilled water every three hours for 3 days with out any light interruptions. cross my fingers and hope for the best. how does that sound to you MM

 

[the med man]

shock ripening

shock ripening

just remember, when the plants immune system is fully activated with every last drop of energy, its hard for mold or bugs or any other parasite to do any damage. like i said i know some cab growers that use bc northern lights producers which are deep water culture and theyve let them go 10 days in dark topping ice daily, and the herb produced was some of the frostiest, most purple, pk ive ever seen in my career,

mm

 

[ImaginaryFriend]

Thanks for the reply...

You're right: I don't need to know the why, just the how.

I was curious about a loss of stretch by stacking the hormones faster and coming out of stretch faster, as dialing in timing with regard to stretch may be important in some gardens.

Again. Thanks for the reply.

 

[shuswap]

okay ive got a question concerning the ice water 4 days of dark cycle,when flushing a plant at the end of its cycle,we usually see yellowing leaves as the neutrients are pulled outof the plant,now what if the plant is still green after 7 days of straight water and then the 4 days of ice,will the changing colors say purple stop the neutrient from still leaving the plant...

and once again maybe i missedit ur using a 100 gal res but are u changing weekly throught the cycle? thanxs

 

[Fuzzball]

MM , thanks for the shock ripening totorial. I suppose somebody who's doing dirt can use ice water or snow if its available, i will be harvesting soon & snow is available to me right now, im sure it will work ,but will be careful not to pack it around the stalk.im thinking a good water with cold water then pack ice.like you said ==="just remember everything is subject to strain, system, space and grower. there is no definitve way to do it. just as long as they get 72 hours dark with the coldest water",

Regard Fuzzball

 

[highonmt]

okay ive got a question concerning the ice water 4 days of dark cycle,when flushing a plant at the end of its cycle,we usually see yellowing leaves as the neutrients are pulled outof the plant,now what if the plant is still green after 7 days of straight water and then the 4 days of ice,will the changing colors say purple stop the neutrient from still leaving the plant...

and once again maybe i missedit ur using a 100 gal res but are u changing weekly throught the cycle? thanxs

We have been using cold temp shock for years although not with icewater in the dark at the end tho...untill recently when ol Dirt turned us on to it and it works fantastically btw...so here is the deal. The nutrients are not "leaving the plant" The plant is being shocked into senescence by simulating the onset of winter. The cold temps signal the plant to turn off chlorophyll sythesis and turn on a catabolic enzyme system that transforms the chlorophyll (green color) into colorless tetrapyrolic NCCs (nonflourescing chloropyll catabolites) .
The lack of green color allows the accessory pigments to be visisble, anthrocyanins, carotinoids and xanthanoids primarily that are purple, red, and yellow respectively. At the same time the plants rushes to ripen its seeds (empty calyx if done correctly) and in the case of cannabis protects it's seed by producing intoxicants..thus the massive trichome swellage you see with cold conditioning. Hope this helps and here is a link to a paper on the subject. of chlorophyll degredation..http://www.sidthomas.net/pdf/paperpdfs/082.pdf.

Thanks again to med man for this great thread. I could only score 4" cubes so my net pots had to be 6" but I am only doing 6 plant tables that are 2'x4'. to try out the system so I'm not too worried about it they should work ok..no?
HM

 

[the med man]

Thanks for the reply...

You're right: I don't need to know the why, just the how.

I was curious about a loss of stretch by stacking the hormones faster and coming out of stretch faster, as dialing in timing with regard to stretch may be important in some gardens.

Again. Thanks for the reply.

remember, plants do most of their growing at night. imagine 36 hours uninterrupted growth. if anything plants strecth out more if not equal to reg schedge,

mm

 

[the med man]

MM , thanks for the shock ripening totorial. I suppose somebody who's doing dirt can use ice water or snow if its available, i will be harvesting soon & snow is available to me right now, im sure it will work ,but will be careful not to pack it around the stalk.im thinking a good water with cold water then pack ice.like you said ==="just remember everything is subject to strain, system, space and grower. there is no definitve way to do it. just as long as they get 72 hours dark with the coldest water",

Regard Fuzzball

in dirt dose the soil with ice water no h202, i dint know what snow on the surface would do becuase ive never tried. you want the pot heavvier then shes eve been. water logging will help the shock factor. after the pots have almost dried:harvest, or givem another go, yer call,

mm

 

[the med man]

okay ive got a question concerning the ice water 4 days of dark cycle,when flushing a plant at the end of its cycle,we usually see yellowing leaves as the neutrients are pulled outof the plant,now what if the plant is still green after 7 days of straight water and then the 4 days of ice,will the changing colors say purple stop the neutrient from still leaving the plant...

and once again maybe i missedit ur using a 100 gal res but are u changing weekly throught the cycle? thanxs

check thread #139,

mm

 

[CareFreeLivin]

Am in the process of building a table for 2kw and have a couple questions. I'm building it 4x8 (would you go with a different size?) and thinking of going with 12 plant sites. Is this a good amount or should it be increased? Thinking about doing a scrog positioned 18" above the table. Would you go air cooled hoods or vert lighting with no shades??

Thanks again for all the info in this thread!

 

[the med man]

hey cfl,

if u dont mind, build the table 5 x 10, still with 15 plant sites. put the scrog at 24 inches and let them get tall. put each light horizontal air cooled( i only do sealed rooms fyi) at 2.5 foot centres for even distribution. this extra 10 sqaure feet will pack on tons more weight without quality loss. u will be doing extra work and using more material, but it is more then worth it for 2 kw. this table size is also amazing for 3 600w. when doing full tables its best to use horizontal lighting,

mm

 

[CareFreeLivin]

wicked, thanks for quick response.

 

[shuswap]

MM can you give us a little info on what you do when supercropping,isnt this where you crush the stem,if so what are u doing starting at the bottom and slowly working your way up? does this not slowdown the plant from stress? thanxs again!!

 

[ImaginaryFriend]

remember, plants do most of their growing at night. imagine 36 hours uninterrupted growth. if anything plants strecth out more if not equal to reg schedge,

Good to know. Keep feeding them, even though there isn't transpiration in the darK?