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Mosaic virus and Cannabis, Chem D etc...

VerdantGreen

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if all goes well i should be getting my chem d tested for mosaic virus in a lab soon...

i'll post the results.

VG
 

AZClones

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Wow. Just stumbled across this thread today.

I propagate plants in sterile tissue culture for a living. One of the first things we do is index plants before cloning them; indexing for viruses can be done several different ways- more on that in a moment. However, it is important that plants be tested for viruses prior to multiplying them for several reasons- not the least of which is that when growing well, plants can be asymptomatic. Problem is, if they're stressed, the effects of the virus can surface, and decimate a crop. Think of it like cold sores: lots of people carry them, but they're not always visible. Worse, when the plants are propagated clonally, a single infected plant can reduce an entire greenhouse to bankruptcy if things are bad enough. It can get even worse if other susceptible crops in adjacent growing facilities are infected by vectors such as aphids.

That said, it's quite possible the effects that are being seen are a virus- just not tobacco mosaic virus. This could explain why the effects of a virus are observed, but repeated ELISA and Agdia immunoassays are coming up negative. It could be another tobamovirus, or another viral "genus" entirely. If this is the case, then the only true way to detect these viruses is with scanning electron microscopy- although that is hit-or-miss because viral loads can be small enough as to be undetectable at this level.

There is one trick that has not been discussed that serves almost as well as SEM, and is more useful than ELISA or other immunoassays: indicator plants. There are some plants that are susceptible to damned near every virus that comes along, forming necrotic lesions when the sap of an infected plant is rubbed into a leaf that has been wounded with sandpaper. I seem to recall the most common is Cassia occidentalis (coffee senna), although there are several. The main caveat is that a susceptible cultivar must be selected; over the years, some of these plants have been selectively bred for virus resistance.

While plants do not have a seek-and-destroy immune system like mammals, many are capable of defending against systemic viral infection by "walling off" and killing areas that are affected. These indicator plants do just that, and a single plant can be used for multiple tests. However, with many crop/virus combinations, the virus is transmitted systemically. While it has been suggested that meristem propagation may yield virus-free clones, this is done only in conjunction with testing. Often, the process is performed in conjunction with heat treatments and exposure to anti-viral compounds in order to reduce the chances of a virus being passed along. Trimming visibly affected areas will not rid a plant of virus.

Bear in mind that if there IS an infected plant in a collection, casual disinfection practices such as alcohol, quats (such as Physan), and even bleach may not be sufficient to assure 100% denaturation of virus particles on cutting tools. For this, there is only one 100% effective practice: thermal treatment, which would include heating to well above autoclave temperature. (TbMV is very odd in that it can re-form from its thermally shattered components, up to some temperature that is well above where you'd think it would be. Precise figures escape me.) All cutting tools I use are heated to 230C before re-use. Use of disinfection solutions including alcohol and quats may just spread the problem as they do not denature viruses reliably. Note that while Physan *claims* it is viruscidal, this claim comes from a single paper done on beans back in the 1960s, and that was never published in a peer-reviewed journal.

Some sources suggest that saturated trisodium phosphate solution- in conjunction with scrubbing- may be adequate to assure control of viruses on cutting tools. I don't know of any papers on the subject. Others suggest milk may work; however, others have suggested that perennials propagated in this fashion may show signs of virus because the antibodies that stick to the virus particles "wear off" after some time. For crops like cannabis that are handed down through multiple generations, this may be a consideration. For surface disinfection, bleach is probably the next best thing.

So- I think there are several issues here:

1) Identifying the presence/absence of a true plant virus, versus symptoms of physiological or pest problems

2) Identification of a possible agent other than TbMV

3) Recognizing that "casual" techniques in preventing spread of such viruses may be less effective than would be desired in high-value crops

4) Recognizing that treatment of infected crops may be undesirable; prevention is key
 

mad librettist

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There is one trick that has not been discussed that serves almost as well as SEM, and is more useful than ELISA or other immunoassays: indicator plants

Hey! My ego is making me point out that I suggested trying to infect ornamental tobacciana with material from the suspected host plant strained through mesh fine enough to exclude bacteria.
 

Crusader Rabbit

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The articles I read regarding Tospoviruses mentioned using indicator plants in the greenhouse to alert the grower to the presence of virus infected thrips. This is comparable to using the proverbial "canary in a coal mine". Petunias are supposed to show symptoms of infection before the crop plants do. Petunias were also mentioned for innoculation tests with TMV.

A quick googling brought up these articles with photos;

http://www.hort.uconn.edu/ipm/greenhs/htms/tospov.htm

http://www.umass.edu/umext/floriculture/fact_sheets/pest_management/virusind.html

http://www.flora-links.org/petuniaindicators.htm
 

AZClones

New member
Hey! My ego is making me point out that I suggested trying to infect ornamental tobacciana with material from the suspected host plant strained through mesh fine enough to exclude bacteria.

Ah! Apologies; long thread, and I confess I skimmed a few posts.

Nicotiana is certainly a vulnerable genus when it comes to viruses. In fact, all of the Solanaceae is a target, it seems. Using it as an indicator plant has one problem: the virus may be asymptomatic. The "classic" indicator plants demonstrate local necrosis, usually rather quickly. Other plants may be prone to continuing on without symptoms of infection unless they're stressed- and the stress alone may mimic viral infection. Similarly, there's a chance the cultivar used as an indicator plant may have been bred for virus resistance- same as any other indicator plant, of course.

FWIW, the family of interest seems to be largely unexplored with respect to susceptibility to viruses.
 

Baba Ku

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Trimming visibly affected areas will not rid a plant of virus.
I think this is a very important statement for discussion. I have seen multiple time folks claim they can cure a plant by removing effected areas and/or taking cuts from (seemingly)non-effected areas.

So- I think there are several issues here:

1) Identifying the presence/absence of a true plant virus, versus symptoms of physiological or pest problems

2) Identification of a possible agent other than TbMV

3) Recognizing that "casual" techniques in preventing spread of such viruses may be less effective than would be desired in high-value crops

4) Recognizing that treatment of infected crops may be undesirable; prevention is key
I think we also need to consider if the visible afflictions can be attributed to genetics, or even a hormonal display.
 

AZClones

New member
I think we also need to consider if the visible afflictions can be attributed to genetics, or even a hormonal display.

Agreed. As is the case with any crop, sometimes the plants present with cryptic symptoms that are a combination of genetics and stress. In the case of cannabis, the stressors are many as the grower endeavors to produce larger amounts of product. And it would be unreasonable to expect different clones or hybrids to respond the same to viruses.

Plant viruses are a very messy subject, and there's a lot of scuttlebutt and rumor. Very few people have the time or desire to get to the bottom of a problem, and quite reasonably so: they just want it to go away.
 

Baba Ku

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I can show a line that has mutation in it's map.
I have been growing f13 for a couple years now. One of the original F1's displayed heavy mutation and was not much of a producer. And another sister plant was very uniform and showed no signs of the mutation.
I used the uniform displaying plant for an outcross. The progeny of that cross shows a very high rate of mutation. One would have thought it was the mutated sister that was bred, rather than the uniform plant. (which brings me to points considering the numbers used when making an outcross..but I digress)

Anyway, this same uniform plant was flowered out 2 years ago and has been a clone mom ever since. Just recently I took some cuts and one of them displayed what a full on reveging plant would. Gnarly, curled up, waxy leaves..the whole nine yards. In fact, it was hard to distinguish that it was even a cut of the F13. I was questioning my labeling.
But the cut finally straightened out, like a reveg would, and is now growing quite normal.
Not sure what triggered the hormonal response in that cut, as other cuts of same size, same bubbler, did not display this.

Folks unfamiliar with the mutation that the line carries could possibly think they are seeing a virus.
picture.php

picture.php

picture.php

picture.php
 

Baba Ku

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This is one of the mutant siblings that I flowered out. Notice how the mutation manifests itself on an individual branch, while other branches show no signs of the trait.
picture.php


None of the nodes on this branch show mutation...
picture.php

yet this branch every node is mutated.
picture.php


It would be easy to think this plant had a virus on an effected area. But knowing the line, I know that is not the case here.
I find it very interesting how a mutation can appear in selective areas.

This is the above mutant bud dried out...
picture.php
 
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PuReKnOwLeDgE

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Earlier in the thread I tested my Chem D cut with a TMV test kit, it came out negative and some said well I heard it is only on some cuts (lines). My chem D cut had displayed some slight variations in the leaves in flower, and looks like classic TMV symptoms. So I think we can safely say it is simply genetics when it comes to the Chem D, since she has already tested negative.
 

VerdantGreen

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Earlier in the thread I tested my Chem D cut with a TMV test kit, it came out negative and some said well I heard it is only on some cuts (lines). My chem D cut had displayed some slight variations in the leaves in flower, and looks like classic TMV symptoms. So I think we can safely say it is simply genetics when it comes to the Chem D, since she has already tested negative.

hey PK when you say that do you mean your cut has this leaf variegation trait like in the pic?
picture.php

VG
 

Dr. D

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Earlier in the thread I tested my Chem D cut with a TMV test kit, it came out negative and some said well I heard it is only on some cuts (lines). My chem D cut had displayed some slight variations in the leaves in flower, and looks like classic TMV symptoms. So I think we can safely say it is simply genetics when it comes to the Chem D, since she has already tested negative.

Like i said earlier Chem D does not have TMV, it would infect everything it comes into contact with and it doesnt.
TMV is all through my garden new seedlings infected along with all out sourced clones, it spreads very easily.
 

VerdantGreen

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i finally got the 'nod' to send in a leaf sample of Chem D for mosaic virus testing... it sounds like it will be a pretty definitive test. big thanks to the guy who sorted this out for me. i wont namecheck him but he's welcome to come and take a bow if he chooses :D

if all goes well i should have some results soon...

VG
 

Greyskull

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Mosaic virus and Cannabis, Chem D etc...

i finally got the 'nod' to send in a leaf sample of Chem D for mosaic virus testing... it sounds like it will be a pretty definitive test. big thanks to the guy who sorted this out for me. i wont namecheck him but he's welcome to come and take a bow if he chooses :D

if all goes well i should have some results soon...

VG

Thsts rad VG

....staying tuned....
 

GeorgeSmiley

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Veteran
i finally got the 'nod' to send in a leaf sample of Chem D for mosaic virus testing... it sounds like it will be a pretty definitive test. big thanks to the guy who sorted this out for me. i wont namecheck him but he's welcome to come and take a bow if he chooses :D

if all goes well i should have some results soon...

VG

Any update on this VG?

Cheers
Smiley
 

VerdantGreen

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hi George, unfortunately, despite sending a sample twice, i never got the results from the guy who offered to test this for me.

fwiw, having kept a mum of the chem D for some time now in very close contact with my other mums - and having seen Chem D progeny inherit similar leaf traits - im pretty confident that it isnt TMV.

VG
 

the gnome

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hi George, unfortunately, despite sending a sample twice, i never got the results from the guy who offered to test this for me.

fwiw, having kept a mum of the chem D for some time now in very close contact with my other mums - and having seen Chem D progeny inherit similar leaf traits - im pretty confident that it isnt TMV.

VG

theres an online testing lab that has a test kit.
you get 5 individual test packets
$27 +shipping
I ordered it, fast and easy, and just the peace of mind knowing is worth that alone
 
Just wanted to let people know results. I tested POSITIVE for TMV with the agdia testing strips. Multiple test kits used, used control plants from other locations as well and no positive results.

I destroyed EVERY plant I had. There was one strain I refused to lose as I am only one of 2 people who have it, but managed to get a new cutting so everything got the chop. Lights were left running in rooms on a 95F + day with no ventilation. Got up to the 130's for several hours. Bleached and boiled every single root pot and every piece of cutting, pruning equipment.

6 months later no signs. Root aphids still around so the fight goes on, but the weird twisty leaves and fucked up growth has left ever since tear down and disinfection.
 
I have virus still (I think)

I have virus still (I think)

I'll throw my two cents in. This virus is real, and it is out there. It is decimating people up in Nor Cal as we speak. I am one of them.

I am no master gardener and no expert, but I have been in this game for over 10 years, and pulled consistant indoor yields using the same methods, and have never experienced this.


I made a mistake and donated 40 large teens to a collective that I did not think I needed. I run multiple rooms and areas and I was expanding and made an unfortunate miscalculation.

One week later when I realized my mistake, I figured I would rectify it while adding some fresh genetics to try in a room. I purchased 40 Purple Candy Teens off someone. They were not very healthy looking due to overcrowding, I am (was) fairly confident in my growing skills and did not see anything I could not rectify very quickly. It seemed a good deal so I added them to my veg room, along with my own strains of Dream Queen (Green Crack) Blackberry Kush, Jack Herer, GDP, NL 5, an unknown kush that people love and yields well so I have kept, and my pride and joy Superfrost.

The purchased purple kandys had the same symptoms I now have all over, except to a far lesser degree. (A leaf and growth tip here and there). That is how I know the means it was introduced in my garden, I saw the problem on them, but did not correctly identify it. (I believed it was a cal-mag issue, as so many people incorrectly assume and wreak further havoc on their plants)

Over the period of two weeks those initial symptoms got worse and worse, all new growth from the infected plants had blistered, twisted growth, with brown tips. Nothing I tried corrected the issue. Flush, light nutes, heavy nutes, cal-mag, epsom, you name it, I tried it. 5 plants each out of 40 were given seperate treatments. So 8 different regimens/tactics/cures. All reacted in the same manner, which was to get progressively worse.

http://picturepush.com/public/5118634View Image
http://picturepush.com/public/5118638View Image

In disgust and slight worry, I began to research online and ran across the tobacco mosaic virus, and its many other variations. I immediately removed all of the purple kandy plants outside, and placed them in a safe area. I was still unsure at the time what I had, but knew it was something I had never dealt with before, and did not want it spreading.

I thought I was scot free, with a good lesson learnt. I run a perpetual grow, with 180 plants vegging. All veg plants are sequestered together at different stages of growth. They then are moved to the muliple flowering rooms, where I pull a harvest every 7 days, and on the rotation goes.

I began to notice the same symptoms in my own plants that the purple candy had displayed. I saw one affected growth shoot. (necrotic pistils, twisted leaves) I cut it off, and sterilized the scissors. Next day there were 2. And several on the plants surrounding it. I checked closer. I found deformed/dead growth tips in all areas of this flowering room. With the plants that were put into 12-12 one week ago. And it is spreading.

I ordered the test strips for TMV from Agdia. I had a faint pink line on the positive mark on 4 samples. I tested the final 5th in clean tap water, to ensure the test was correct and I did not have a contaminated/faulty test kit. The 5th in tap water showed no positive line. Pretty definitive for me, but I will be sending a sample to Agdia to confirm and test for others to be 110%.

My veg room looks healthy,

http://picturepush.com/public/5118655View Image
http://picturepush.com/public/5118661View Image
I have extremely low temperatures at the moment and just built a new structure to accomadate the vegging plants, but neglected to insulate the floor, which I am doing tommorow. The plants do not look thrilled due to lower soil temperatures (55 F) but no signs of TMV in them at least. I will be raising the beds with 4X8's and pumping warm air from the lights underneath to create undersoil insulation. Anyway


The logical thing to do would be dump EVERYTHING. Bleach, disenfect, and start over. However this is not an option. If I dump everything, I lose 4 months of cycle. That puts me into the ground, I simply cannot afford it with power and space bills. So I have to beat this with the plants I have, or I lose everything I have worked for, simple as that. I also WILL NOT lose my superfrost genetics (not jadesuperfrost). This is a 40 day flowering strain, buds have dark purple hues and so covered in resin you can hardly see plant matter. I went through absolute HELL to get this genetic from the breeder and only 2 other people have it. If I lose that I will be beyond pissed.

So I am coming up with plans of attack. For a start I will have to isolate the root systems of plants. It will lose me valuable space which equals plant amounts which equals production, but better some than all of it right?

I do not think I will be able to keep plants from touching eachother. If I do that I can only sustain half the plants and would be a massive waste of electricity and space. If I am being foolish here I would appreciate advice from anyone, because I am at damage limitation phase here. For now I will cull any plants that show signs of the virus and hope they do not infect the others.

Secondly I sprayed the plants with 325 mg aspirin to 1 gallon water. I am trying to boost the plants immune system and induce SA. I do not know if it will have an positive effect but it has not hurt.

I ordered Jaz rose spray

http://www.jazsprays.com/JAZ-Rose-Spray--16-oz-Concentrate_p_8.html

Jaz rose spray contains salicylic acid which is used to induce Systemic Acquired Resistance. I will report back on how that goes.

I have also boosted CO2 levels in flowering. There is alot of misinformation out there but it seems to make logical sense that a healthy, quickly growing plant will fight off a disease better than a slower growing one. So CO2 levels are going up to 1000 ppm from 600.

I have been reading SO much the last few days, so I apologize for not being able to cite sources, but products which I am considering which people mentioned having a positive effect are

Eagle 20
Physan 20
Barricade
Scorpion Juice
Wet & Forget (Vaccinate)

I will be testing these products on control groups showing signs of the virus and hopefully will see improvement from at least one.

Things I have learnt first hand from the spread of this are

1. It can be spread through direct contact (plants touching)
2. When you see signs of it, burn that fucking plant immediately before it spreads.
3. Never buy clones from someone you don't know extremely well and have faith in their knowledge/growing experience and honesty.

ANY advice the experts or people who have experienced this problem can offer me I would love to hear. I believe this can be beaten, not gotten rid of, but controlled, which is all I need. The reason I believe this is that the purple kandy plants outside ARE still alive and green. Yes they look like shit. But they are in conditions where it gets 38F at night. And they have been drinking only rainwater. But they are still growing, albeit slowly.
http://picturepush.com/public/5118668View Image
If they can survive, surely my babied plants can produce?

Then I can slowly introduce healthy unaffected genetics into my garden over time without suffering a 4 month loss of production. I am not someone who gives up easy, but I realize what I am up against so I am under no illusions. I am holding on to the hope that


A. I have a mild version of the virus
B. I keep my plants healthy, they might be able to fight it and still yield well.
C. That I have not suffered a mass infection but a localized one.

I might not get any of those, but those are my only 3 rays of hope atm lol. Like I said people, ANY advice is appreciated


(35 year grower) I brought in infected cut years ago. Went absolutely crazy for a couple years.Sterilized everything. Threw away Everything Mother plants, all plants, all hydro equipment Rez, pots tools everything (Big loss)..Started with "New everything' (Big cost)...Had two good grows (no sign at all of a virus)..Now seeing same type of dead area's and twisting and blemishes on mothers. Then A light bulb over my head appeared. The worse vectors for plants are "BUGS" obviously I did not realize 99 percent of grows get flying bugs going in and out of the grows it just can't be helped .Or microscopic eggs ect, I went out in yard and noticed some of my plants in the yard had the exact same ragged cut leaves and mottling patterns. "Summation" ...If you ever get it you will always have it until you move.
 

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