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This Is How You Kill Powder Mildew Forever!!!!!

headband 707

Plant whisperer
Veteran
Gee are you talkin about this shit? Nah you use it though.

Gee are you talkin about this shit? Nah you use it though.

We have literally talked about all those band-aids through this thread already, even more than once. Did you read the whole thread? Most of us have tried at least half of those solutions that took you 10 seconds to copy paste. You didn't even add anything useful from your knowledge or experience. I am starting to guess you don't have much, you just sit around these forums and try to be a jerk-off, you seem to have a real knack for bein an ass around here. My 2c from reading what you say, I mean you actually had the audacity to smack talk samtheskunkman like you knew more than him lol. Now that's ignorant. Taunting him "Where's the RKS!? Where is it?!?" While all he did was provided and discussed scientific studies that proved you wrong, all which you probably didn't even read. You've come in to more than 1 thread now with little to no actual knowledge except for what you can copy paste and google so this is quite the hypocritical statement as usual from you. If you don't agree then say your piece and leave it alone. You really are not helping around here with that sort of attitude and little to no knowledge. Ed Rosenthal doesn't do everything right either. Imagine if he told people to use harsh chemicals on a global scale (the ones that work) and someone got hurt? There goes his public image. THINK DUDE, THINK! IT'S GOOD FOR YA, I PROMISE! A lil humility doesn't hurt either! :bashhead:


Love your sig.
You make everyone just a little more stupid for the stupid thing you have just said
smile.gif


PRECAUTIONS​
For improved performance, apply with
surfactant spray solutions. Do not enter or
allow worker entry into treated areas during
the restricted entry interval of 24 hours.
Applicators must use proper personal
protective equipment, including long-sleeve
shirt and long pants, chemical-resistant
gloves made from any waterproof material
and shoes plus socks.​
®​
Trademark of Dow AgroSciences

Yeah like the signature says ... just a liitle more stupid...:wave:
 

Fear

Member
I got mine at a hydro store in San Leandro Ca. but I also Googled it and found it easy online. Just don't pay more than $70 a pint.
 

kstampy

Member
PRECAUTIONS​
For improved performance, apply with
surfactant spray solutions. Do not enter or
allow worker entry into treated areas during
the restricted entry interval of 24 hours.
Applicators must use proper personal
protective equipment, including long-sleeve
shirt and long pants, chemical-resistant
gloves made from any waterproof material
and shoes plus socks.​
®​
Trademark of Dow AgroSciences

Yeah like the signature says ... just a liitle more stupid...:wave:

Ahh, thanks for proving my point once again. :laughing:

Mtn - Tampa Agricultural Products try there.
 
G

greenmatter

this thread has some great info in it, but it would be fair to say that it will never stop being a major spitting contest. i have used this stuff one time and it stopped the PM dead in its tracks, but this was NOT the first thing i ever used and if i can avoid it i will never use it again. this stuff like it or hate it WORKS, but if i had to spray it all the time i would be looking for a different solution. if i lived in an area where PM was omnipresent i would agree with spraying milk or potassium bicarbonate to slow down the PM because i don't think the eagle would cure anything. maybe the people who hate this stuff without having ever used it should start a new thread, call it "a logical progression of powdery mildew cures from alpha to omega". every situation is different so it will be a long thread, and while i don't really know what alpha would be i think that omega is well covered in this thread like it or not. just my two cents ( can't please all the people all the time can you Krunch ...but at least you try) BUMP
 

grapeman

Active member
Veteran
My plants are in flowering on a 12/12 schedule. The problem is a light dusting of whitish-grey mold. I have a very good exhaust system. Will this affect the THC? Is it harmful to human consumption? How can I stop it?
Shellie, Bobbins and Battie,
White City, Oregon

It sounds as if your plants have been attacked by powdery mildew. This is a mildew closely related to fungus. The powder is the mildew's reproductive spores. It thrives in an acid environment in a temperature range of 60-70?F (15-21?C) with a humidity above 50%. The spores are floating in the air and there is no practical way to screen them out. Instead, try to change the environment so that conditions don't match the mildew's needs. This may require raising the temperature or lowering humidity.

There are also several safe and effective ways of controlling powdery mildew using minerals or organisms.

Most of the mildicides listed here are fairly new and they are all much less harmful than the old chemical formulations. You won't find most of them at your local store or garden shop, but they are available on the Internet. Many companies sell them there. All of these mildicides are used on edibles or herbs. Some are naturally occurring organisms and are exempt from registration. Others are registered for use on vegetable crops and are considered in the "caution" category, the category for the least dangerous registered mildicides.

AQ10: AQ10 uses a totally new method of fighting powdery mildew, a biofungicide. The active ingredient, Ampelomyces quisqualis, is a fungus that parasitizes the powdery mildew organism. It offers control over a long period of time.

AdvertisementCinnamite: Cinnamite is an extract of cinnamon used as a miticide which is also effective as a fungicide. It is very easy to use, is effective and has a pleasant cinnamon odor. Studies show it is not harmful to marijuana plants.

Copper: Copper ions inactivate some fungal enzyme systems, killing the mycellium. Copper has been used for over 100 years, and is effective. A few brands of copper based fungicides are Phyton 27, Dexol Copper Bordeaux Mix and Kocide DF. There are many other brands available.

Neem Oil: Neem oil is pressed from the nut of the Indian Neem Tree. It protects against and kills mildew by interfering with respiration and collapsing the cell wall. Some growers claim that plants grow more vigorously when sprayed with dilute neem oil twice a month. There are many brands of neem oil available. Many of them are listed as organic.

Plant Shield: Plant Shield contains the organism Trichoderma harzianum strain T-22. This organism attacks fungi and mildews. It is used as a spray or dip. The organism seeks its food and forms a symbiotic relationship with plant roots, which it also protects.

Potassium Bicarbonate: Potassium bicarbonate collapses and desiccates the mildew hyphae. This is a very safe, very effective contact fungicide. Mildew do not develop resistance to it. The potassium in the formula is absorbed by the plant. Two brands are Kaligreen (registered in California) and Armicarb100.

Serenade: Is the fermentation product of a bacterium, bacillus subtillis, that inhibits cell growth of fungi and bacteria. It is very effective and easy to spray on or to use as a dip. It is a contact fungicide that kills only areas that it contacts. A wetting agent or spreader increases total contact.

Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda): Baking soda leaves an alkaline residue on the leaves. The sodium collapses the powdery mildew cell wall and the alkaline environment discourages growth. Plants have a limited tolerance to sodium, so the residue should be washed off before more is applied. Used at the rate of 1/2 teaspoon per quart of water with a wetting agent.

Sulfur: Elememtal sulfur interferes with mildew cellular respiration. It has been used as a fungicide for more than 100 years. There are small packages available in the baking sections of supermarkets.

These new remedies make it much easier to deal with powdery mildew. They are all non-toxic and eliminate the problem fairly easily.

What new remedies?

There is nothing new in your post whatsoever.

Just cut and paste.
 

grapeman

Active member
Veteran
Ed also listed several copper-based fungicides, which we all know shouldn't be used on weed. Ed isn't a god, he makes mistakes too. Eagle20 is the only cure (though I haven't tried AQ10, I have no need to.)

FEAR, please don't use Avid on your plants, it's strictly for ornamentals. use Floramite SC or Forbid 4F, never Avid!

I can tell you with certitude that AQ10 is not as effective as Eagle or other Ag fungicides.

It is a tool I have used ONLY when "re-entry" to a field or "days to harvest" were of importance.

When mildew matters and you have a choice, AQ10 is never a first choice.
 

Fear

Member
foliar spraying the top of the leaves is that good enough or do I have to spray under the leaves too? stinks bad, can smell it through my respirator. :jump:
 

Herborizer

Active member
Veteran
foliar spraying the top of the leaves is that good enough or do I have to spray under the leaves too? stinks bad, can smell it through my respirator. :jump:
Not a good enough respirator or you don't have it on right. I can't smell ANYTHING with mine on. I wear a special outfit, fully covered, even my head. I have special long gloves, socks, closed shoes, and goggles. It's not worth messing around.
 
G

Guest3498

Everybody knows that pesticides aren't good for you. It's a matter of choosing how you want to deal with the problem. Would you rather expose yourself to eagle20 a single time or keep smoking pm laden buds every day? I chose the former, others choose the latter...

Seems like a no brainer to me but as they say diff'rent strokes...
 

Fear

Member
My kids are the ones who apply my pesticides and fungicides they can get down low were i can't get to. How is that for family fun. LOL
 

kstampy

Member
foliar spraying the top of the leaves is that good enough or do I have to spray under the leaves too? stinks bad, can smell it through my respirator. :jump:

Every inch of the plant to the soil line, even the bottom of the leaves as if you were spraying for mites. Be safe and try to make it a once in a blue moon cure, the way IMO that it should be used.
 
G

greenmatter

My kids are the ones who apply my pesticides and fungicides they can get down low were i can't get to. How is that for family fun. LOL

:laughing:
great post ! and they say nobody likes a smart ass !!:jump:
 
M

Mountain

I can tell you with certitude that AQ10 is not as effective as Eagle or other Ag fungicides.

It is a tool I have used ONLY when "re-entry" to a field or "days to harvest" were of importance.

When mildew matters and you have a choice, AQ10 is never a first choice.
I messed with AQ10 and didn't get much of a response.
 

dybert

Active member
I have my bottle of Eagle 20... Do I spray with the lights on or off? I was also going to use penetrator as a wetting agent... how much per gal?

Thanks a ton :)
 

kstampy

Member
I have my bottle of Eagle 20... Do I spray with the lights on or off? I was also going to use penetrator as a wetting agent... how much per gal?

Thanks a ton :)

Read the thread (your question indicates you may not have, sorry otherwise) this isn't safe stuff. Go by the directions on the bottle of penetrator, that's what I did while using that stuff. Spray with the lights off but on is possible I just don't do it unless I am spot spraying bottom leaves indoors. Spray with lights on at your own risk.

2ml/gal E20EW per gallon of RO water with emulsifier. Spray head to toe with lights off for 3-3.5 hours then crank the fans for 30m-1hr and lights on. PM eradicated.
 

walindour

Active member
Just bought some via Pestrong for $49.95 + free shipping. I've been battling this shit for way too long. I rebuilt my entire room after sealing and painting all surfaces. I have plenty of work to do before moving plants back in but my girls that are in a tent temporarily have a few little spots showing up. They are 5 weeks into bloom so the Eagle will be for the cuttings. I used That Stuff PM Wash for the flowering girls - anyone have any experience with PM wash?

http://www.pestrong.com/fungicide/319-eagle-20ew-specialty-fungicide-1pt.html
 
I just have read almost this whole thread...so i just ordered Eagle...I do have a few questions however. Ive read a few posts on this thread saying that after awhile of using Eagle it may not be as effective or even not work any longer. I dont understand why that is, since you use it on the plant once or twice then after its harvested how would it build a resistence to it since that plant is no longer around after harvest. Or is it only if you keep cloning the same plant the it will build a tolorance to it?

Also before i use it i want to completely clean my rooms out, what is the best method of doing that?

Also what I dont understand is that my current crop that has PM on them is a clone from my first crop, and I never got PM on the first one, so why would this 2nd crop coming from the same genes have it?
 

krunchbubble

Dear Haters, I Have So Much More For You To Be Mad
Veteran
I just have read almost this whole thread...so i just ordered Eagle...I do have a few questions however. Ive read a few posts on this thread saying that after awhile of using Eagle it may not be as effective or even not work any longer. I dont understand why that is, since you use it on the plant once or twice then after its harvested how would it build a resistence to it since that plant is no longer around after harvest. Or is it only if you keep cloning the same plant the it will build a tolorance to it?

Also before i use it i want to completely clean my rooms out, what is the best method of doing that?

Also what I dont understand is that my current crop that has PM on them is a clone from my first crop, and I never got PM on the first one, so why would this 2nd crop coming from the same genes have it?


ive been using it for years, it still works as good as it did on the first use......

bleach spray down......

yes, the right conditions for pm to rear its ugly head was not present in your first crop......

your pm blues are long gone! :tiphat:
 
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