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1800w Ebb & Gro

bterzz

Active member
Veteran
Hey everyone
Got a new system in a new room. 3x600w mixed spectrum vegging Green Crack currently 14 plants.

Waiting on co2, room is sealed, 100gpd RO with top off res.

But, I have a question!! This is my first time running an Ebb&Gro, or anything besides hand watering....

Today is Day 1 with them in the system, can anyone give me some suggestions on how many times and how often I should flood the buckets.

Right now I have them set to go on for 15 minutes, 8 times a day, per 24 hours.

What are good ways of testing/experimenting with the ON/OFF times.

Here are some pictures, hope you enjoy.

PS: Attached is a picture of the electric light hoist, raises and lowers the light with the push of a button... Really makes things easy for getting underneath the hoods.

PSS: Going to cover up the carpet under the girls tomorrow.

Any suggestions/comments appreciated!
 

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HUGE

Active member
Veteran
Flood every 4 houres once roots are established. Raise buckets 1" above controller. Only veg for 4 weeks max. DO NOT use hygrozyme. Try to avoid organic nutes and run a dead res with bleach.
 
D

DHF

Tight lookin lil setup Bro....Clean....and yeah......cover the carpet asap , and hang some pandafilm round the open sides of the plants for max reflection back to the plants instead of light bein wasted out into the room where there are no plants......

Feeding lights off is not required in ebb and flow bucket setups btw........

If those are the lil 2 1/2 gal containers then as Huge stated 4 times daily is the rule of thumb feedwise "lights on" only........

The thing that makes ebb and flow buckets so bulletproof is the drying out period in the containers between feed cycles for explosive root growth , as well as no rez chiller required , or chance of root rot as long as plumbing doesn`t clog.........

GH 3 part`s all I ran in my DIY 5 gal setups and did well with way larger plumbing....and.....You cannot veg too long before the flip with the lil containers cuz the roots will clog the small ass feed/drainlines and cause potential crop failure as stated above......

You could squeeze the plants close together for more concentrated light since they`re so small and you`re using the flex tubing , and as they bush out they can be moved further away till you need all 3 lights......I hate seein wasted lumens hittin anything but green.....just my 2 cents from all them yrs.....

Good luck....DHF.....:ying:....
 

HUGE

Active member
Veteran
Also listen to DhF he is where u learned from and went from root rot in cap to 2 grams per watt in 5 gals.
 

fred b

Member
very nice setup!
I just love the idea with the motor for raising the hoods! :good:
I might copy that ;)

greets
fred b
 

bterzz

Active member
Veteran
Hey everyone!! Excellent responses, thank you...

This room is actually built for a family member who benefits from medical marijuana, they're going to be more then happy to see all these great replies!

This grow is going to be handled by me and the family member, but the family member has ZERO experience with hydroponics and/or growing weed.

Time for them to sign up on ICMAG, that's how I learned what I know! :D :D

As for wasting light/lumens, nobody likes that!! Fortunately this plant is a vegging monster, and grows like wild fire...should be able to flip within a week or so with a nice full canopy.

I plan on running Dutch Master Zone to keep the water sterile...

Thanks again, i'll keep everyone updated!

Comments and suggestions still welcome!!
 

Medium Pimpin'

Ask Beavis, I Get Nothing Butt Head
Veteran
real clean look!

i never done E&G buckets, just E&F.

i'd flood for 10 mins every 4 hours, all day (7 flood times)
 

bterzz

Active member
Veteran
Hey everyone..

We kept talking about covering the carpet, cover the carpet, cover the carpet.. we gotta move the buckets, cover the carpet... spider mites hiding in the carpet, nasty bugs in the carpet, cat hair in the carpet...gotta cover the carpet.

FUCK CARPET.
CONCRETE. :bump:
 

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D

DHF

Concrete`s good........Pondliner FTW.......FUCK carpet......

Good luck dewd.....DHF.......:ying:.........
 

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
not sure if i agree with having a 4hr cycle is the way to go. i noticed increase growth when i went to 2hr cycles with 15 min floods. the key is not long flood times i believe. my top drip system dripping 24/7 seems sofar to out perform my ebb& gros on a per bucket scale.

an once again i believe i seen increased growth going from every 4hrs to every 2hrs. unless it was something else that got tuned in.

I do believe in hygrozyme at 5mil per gal, an i do believe in adding ewc castings an mycorhize in tea bags to the rez. so organics out of the question as huge said i am not agreeing with.

I haven't sanitized with bleach or H202 or anything other then fresh water in about 12 runs with my ebb's. i do not sanitize my hydroton. i rinse the roots out an sediment an thats it. the hygrozyme an BB's do there thing.

i do like lifting the buckets higher then the control about an inch to 2 inches. i also like shimming the opposite side of the drain on the buckets so water flows towards the drain.

i do believe in letting the water sit 24hrs before a rez change every 7 days. in most case its not necsssary to fill the rez more then 30 gallon unless the plants are huge an drinking alot.

You'll be happy with the eaze of the system, you setup there should rock easily with lower trimming an what not...

check out my experience with ebb&gro's if you have the time... https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=138353

B well an b-safe..
 
D

DHF

Yeah Gman....Heathie always flooded his lil "multi-flow" 2 1/2 gal buckets every 3 hrs during lights on , but I did well with 3 times over 12 hrs usin 5 gal buckets......

Every 2 hrs worked for you and that`s all that matters , but you`re runnin a hybrid setup topfeedin now right ?..........

You feedin 24/7 ?.......Anyways.....Get ta work Bterzz...Hope yas have bumper crop.....

Peace...DHF.......:ying:..........
 

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
dhf, running 3 systems right now, 1 top drip, one diy ebb& flo bucket system an CAPs original ebb & gro system. the Ebb&gro floods every 2hrs lights on an off.

not sure if i should stop feeding at lights off.I haven't read any benefits as of now as to why i should not flood during lights off, or top drip for that matter. At the moment i cant draw to any conclusions with my experiences why to stop. DHF Care to share???

thinking Maybe i should do some research on no flood during lights off...

bterzz one recent thing i noticed as my temps drop i've been getting slower growth, forgot to add the heater back to the rez an i should keeping it round 67 or so. go get an aquarium heater in the rez if your area can get cold.

I was so impressed with my ebb&gro.

Bsafe
 

HUGE

Active member
Veteran
Not to be a dick but you dint mention using any of those things in your ebb and gro thread. Only 6/9 &pk. If you read the brown slime threat. You will see that 95 % of cases are because of hygrozyme in a recirculating system. The bennies and EwC I have no experience with in ebb.
 
D

DHF

When I told Heathie how sick and tired I was of the constant maintenance with all the bells and whistles I was runnin with krusty buckets for over 8 yrs , He totally sold me on ebb and flow buckets after seeing many of his "Euro" style multi-flow setups that he said he only went to once a week.......

The reason I only fed "lights on" Gman is cuz Heathie told me to do so ......there was no other reason other than it works , and did so for many yrs.......but...I ran 5 gal buckets of lava inside another 5 gal bucket.......not like the manufactured units 1/2 that size , but Heathie ran em that way with dialed results............so......

I will tell you this.......Pot will adapt to feed schedules if fed 24/7 lights on and off like my `ol krusty buckets , but.....they`ll get used to it and require it as you`ve stated with your setups...........

Fed only during lights on gave me better root development with bigger bottom containers during the stretch from the drying out periods , and allowed my plants to deal with less humidity in the flip rooms lights off to prevent any late cycle nasties from rearing their ugly heads since I live in Hell where RH stays 80% regularly.......

Never had powdery mildew or budrot in any of my rooms , and I thank Heathie for that as well from hookin me up to exchanging each room`s air twice per minute 24/7 with fans on thermostats and speed controllers.........

Just what I did G.........Don`t change what works for you ......All grow environments are different geographically and need dialed according to local needs and plant requirements.......

I was only after 2 1/2 oz plants at the end of the day playin the numbers game and did it for over 5 yrs well with 35 plants in each room at several locations only runnin 3-600`s vertical and bare bulbed.............

Peace...DHF........:ying:...
 

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
Dick? where here to talk about things an not reinvent the wheel, or to make it spin a little smoother. Dick? HA....

well then i guess you didnt read my thread, nor do i wish you to for that matter. brown slime is from high temps,low DO,excess sugars,poor circulation, bad bacterias an light leeks etc etc make brown sliime.

I mention about 5 other additives as well that I FEEL have helped me out. not just what i read on someone elses thread...

Huge, i was just pointing what you said i felt was wrong. an that was where it was at. untill now... Untill you have some real personal experience with that certain element, you can't just preach what you just read. you shouldn't say defintely do this or defintely do that, everyone situation is different..

2ndly it just proves your wrong cause even in the last post you spoke of my thread, u made a false statement AGAIN.. I use like 5 additves, an been using a zyme product for the past 4 years CONTINUALLY. just shows what im saying an not trying to start a pissing contest here. Reread it if u want.. not asking just saying, Wrong!
 

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
DHF , i know wht you mean about every room being different. out favorite plant is very resilient an addaptive to many situiations. i see how if the environment an especially the medium is right it will take any feeding sched.

I would like to experiment with less water LATE in flower. as i seen increased development in early flower from frequent waterings. but i also seen once before when i forgot to plug the pumps back in late flower, 2 days later came down an plants where wilted, plugged it back in an so forth. that harvest had some serious swollen trichs at harvest time which was like 7 days after that incident. It was like the plant saw starvation an when they got a chance to feed again they went into overdrive.

B-well an b-safe
 
D

DHF

Gonna give yas some more inside trader info...Cut my feed off by 1/2 last 2 weeks bloom lights on to dry em out and pump more resin from raisin temps and shuttin off air circulation .....and then....

Ran a/c`s as low as they`d go lights off while fightin the dehueys and inline fans for lower temps ta kill as much chlorophyll as possible till choptime........

The little things Bro.....DHF...,:ying:...
 

HUGE

Active member
Veteran
Sh, i hope it continues to work ok. It had apparently scared a bunch of people shitless thinking someone was tapping there computer while viewing icmag. So it had became an issue none the less.... So much of an issue the admins deleted this very same thread i started. So this is the 2nd thread. Im not an excellent writer or grower, but the last thread i spent hours on and it was deleted. A good amount of time was spent, and i would hate to see all this time im trying to communicate get flushed.


In anycase. here was the plan, gh, 6/9, cannazyme, floralicious, and pk boosters.


The 6/9 recipe was from a post i saw in rez's forums. It was based using coco, but i see no reason why it shouldn't work with hydro. other then the high ph for most of the grow. Head also uses a similar sced i believe.

For reference here's Rez's feeding sced he posted awhile back in his forum area

Cut and pasted.....

==The Recipe==


(All Products are GenHydro,pH at 6.0)
(All measurements are per gal.)
6ml flora micro
9ml flora bloom
5ml Floralicious (grow) (during week 3 of a 4-5week,24-on,veg cycle.)

Week 5,transition into flower-6.0 pH h20 at <100ppm


Based on 63 day 12/12 Flower Cycle:

Day 1-14
6ml micro
9ml bloom

Day 15-21
6ml micro
9ml bloom
7ml Kool-Bloom Liquid (0-10-10)

Day 22-28
9ml Bloom

Day 29-35
9ml Bloom
7ml Kool-Bloom Liquid (0-10-10)

Day 36-52
9 ml Bloom

Day 50-63 (Flush)
6.0 pH h20 at <100 ppm

****************************** ************

Now i changed the ph's to run at 5.2 5.4 to 6.1 6.2 .

I Also have been adding 2-3 mill per gal of a zyme product.

I have also been adding Flroalicious bloom at 2-3mill per gal

Day 19 i started adding floarlicious plus at 1 mil per gallon along with pk. I did not have kool bloom liquid at the start, but i did have a few liters of bcuzz pk/13/14 lying around.

the liquid kB in the above sced called for 7mil per gal, 0-10-10, which i believe would be a total of 0-70-70 @ 7mil a gal. Pk 13/14 is 0-13-14, 5 mill a gal puts me at 0-65-70. Close enough i figured.

Since im running a 65 or so day strain, I also extended the day 1-14 to day 1-19 before i started the pk boost.



I have had EXCELLENT growth with no def throughout so far.

Pics to follow

B-safe
There is the fee schedule you hav at the start o your thread. Your last post made 3 days ago lists your additives and hygrozyme isn't in there. I do have plenty o first hand experience with hygrozyme. It does not conTain the slime it merely accelerates the bloom. That threat is like 100 pages long and I've read the whole thing several times while dealing with brown slime. For me and hundreds of others the slime appears whith hygrozyme and dissapears when you stop using it. Regardles o res temps or Do levels. This is why I started with not trying to be a dick cuz people get all ruffled when you disagree so I prefaced with not trying to be a dick. However you do seem to be a dick. So now yes I'm actually trying to be a dick. cannazyme is not hygrozyme. I'm not preaching what I read I am trying to save a fellow grower from failure based on first hand corroborated knowledge. Not asking just saying your wrong.
 

HUGE

Active member
Veteran
Do yourself a favor and just google " hygrozyme brown slime" and get back to me. Or better yet go buy some and start using at the recommended dose and get back to me in a week.
 

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