Tutorial Organics for Beginners

[SKUNK_DRUNK19]

First off i would like to say is thanks for all the insight.i will make good use of it. i did a lot of reading on here about soil mixes and came across the "MOONSHINE" mix and seen that there is not to much to it. it seems to be simple enough to where i cant even mess it up LOL. so i went and changed a few thing on my list of soil's this is my list

1 bag FF ocean forest (1cbf)
1 bag FF planting mix (1cbf)
1 bag Light Warrior (1cbf)
1 bag black gold (1cbf)
1 small cocobrick (8x4x2)
1 cup happy frog fruit and flower
and two 5gal buckets of perlite

i hav noticed that there is diffrent types of black gold one with a red flower one the bag and one with a more of an orange flower on it. i got the one with the orange flower on it. i have also read that the "MOONSINE MAN" or "MM" lets his plants vegg in this mix for 5 weeks. i had to replace the peice of mind fruit and flower with happy frog fruit and flower the nuets are the same. it should be any diffrent from right??? ive seen pics on here of good strains that seem to be doin great in this soil mix. from my understanding all that was done was ph the water. is this mix really that good??

 

[SKUNK_DRUNK19]

LOL sorry for the missed spelled words in my post. never post wen medicated LOL

 

[Clackamas Coot]

Skunk_Drunk

RE: Dry fertilizer mix

It's been my experience that adding 1 - 1.5 cups of dry fertilizer to each 1 c.f. of potting soil is a good thing to consider. The amount that you indicated is pretty anemic in my opinion.

Get other advice - as usual.

HTH

CC

 

[Yoric]

Rusty spots and limp leaves

Rusty spots and limp leaves

My feminized White Widow is in the end of the first week of flower, and yesterday I watered with compost tea plus a dash of Liquid Karma. This morning she's looking a bit grim. Plenty of the leaves are healthy, but the fully developed shade leaves toward the top look like this (apologies for the poor quality)

The whole plant looks like this

I'm posting here because she's in LC's Mix #1 with blood, bone, and kelp meal. I followed all directions to the letter. The biggest change made so far is that I moved her from 125w CFL to 250w HPS for flowering; some of the burning/dryness you can see on the lefthand side of the plant image happened the very first day (and I moved the light up higher after that, no problems the rest of the week until now). I can move this to the pharmacy if that's where it belongs. Thanks for your help!

 

[Fire On High]

Thanks.

 

[Bennyweed1]

Hey everyone....

I would like to post the recipe I mixed up and would like to know if it is going to work from start to finish for easy drip feeding irrigation.


5 gallons top soil
5 gallons local organic potting soil
5 gallons peat
1 gallon cotton burr
1 gallon compost with mycorrhiza
1 gallon EWC
4 gallons perlite- large and little chunks


Kelp meal – 1 cup
Bone meal- 1 cup
blood meal- 1 cup
Azomite- 1 cup
Dolomite lime- 2 cup
Alfalfa- 1 cup
Bat guanos N&P-1 cup each
Dry molasses – 1 cup
Green sand – 1 cup
Rice Flour – ¾ cup
Bene. bacteria – ½ cup
Diatomaceous earth – 1 cup

If I need to to change something, please do advice me. Just note the amendments I have are all Im going to get so please dont tell me to go get something else. This is it so please work with what I have. What I would like to know is if I need to increase, decrease, ext...certain amendments. Thanks ICmag and take care!

 

[SKUNK_DRUNK19]

Skunk_Drunk

RE: Dry fertilizer mix

It's been my experience that adding 1 - 1.5 cups of dry fertilizer to each 1 c.f. of potting soil is a good thing to consider. The amount that you indicated is pretty anemic in my opinion.

Get other advice - as usual.

HTH

CC

Thaks for the advise i shall look in to that more. i thought it seem to be a lil weird all that soil and only one cup.lol didnt seem right.Have your plants been better with the 1 cup with ever 1cbf of soil?

 

[IE2KS_KUSH]

Re: Organics for Beginners

Celebrate good times c'mon!

Just mixed my first 3cubic feet of lc mix with the first recipe fertilizer now wet and set been a long time coming....so happy. I also have 2 cubic feet of just plain ready to go!

 

[Carl Carlson]

http://www.ecostudies.org/compost_tea_recipes.html

I'm still new to this aspect of growing, but have been using the above recipes and they seem to be working. I can see fungal growth on the top layer in the containers. The ladies look good. The broth smells good... I'm basically just switching off between the three.

 

[vonforne]

My feminized White Widow is in the end of the first week of flower, and yesterday I watered with compost tea plus a dash of Liquid Karma. This morning she's looking a bit grim. Plenty of the leaves are healthy, but the fully developed shade leaves toward the top look like this (apologies for the poor quality)

The whole plant looks like this

I'm posting here because she's in LC's Mix #1 with blood, bone, and kelp meal. I followed all directions to the letter. The biggest change made so far is that I moved her from 125w CFL to 250w HPS for flowering; some of the burning/dryness you can see on the lefthand side of the plant image happened the very first day (and I moved the light up higher after that, no problems the rest of the week until now). I can move this to the pharmacy if that's where it belongs. Thanks for your help!

What is the ambient temperature in your cab? Lower leaf burn and upper leaf dis-figuration.

It is my guess that the temperature is too high along with the light being to close to the plant.

If I was to guess the leaf surface temps are around 100 +. What type of air circulation do you have? Are you exchanging air or supplementing with C0²?

V

 

[vonforne]

Hey everyone....

I would like to post the recipe I mixed up and would like to know if it is going to work from start to finish for easy drip feeding irrigation.


5 gallons top soil
5 gallons local organic potting soil
5 gallons peat
1 gallon cotton burr
1 gallon compost with mycorrhiza
1 gallon EWC
4 gallons perlite- large and little chunks


Kelp meal – 1 cup
Bone meal- 1 cup
blood meal- 1 cup
Azomite- 1 cup
Dolomite lime- 2 cup
Alfalfa- 1 cup
Bat guanos N&P-1 cup each
Dry molasses – 1 cup
Green sand – 1 cup
Rice Flour – ¾ cup
Bene. bacteria – ½ cup
Diatomaceous earth – 1 cup

If I need to to change something, please do advice me. Just note the amendments I have are all Im going to get so please dont tell me to go get something else. This is it so please work with what I have. What I would like to know is if I need to increase, decrease, ext...certain amendments. Thanks ICmag and take care!

With what you have.........

For 18 gallons of soil

aou have 12 TBS too much N and 14 TBS too much P. Cut that mix to 36 TBS combined N and 18 TBS combined P.

With the Azomite and Dolomite lime I would cut the Greensand out of the mix also.

Rice flour

The seeds of the tropical seagrass Enhalus acoroides were analyzed for their nutritive components to assess their dietary value for humans. Proximate analysis of flour prepared by grinding the dried seeds gave the following results: 9.8% moisture; 8.8% protein; 0.2% fat; 72.4% carbohydrates; 2.4% crude fiber; 6.4% ash; 933 mg/kg calcium; 2392 mg/kg phosphorous; and 2813 mg/kg iron. Correspondingly, proximate analysis of the starch prepared from the flour with a 50% yield, resulted in the following: 11% moisture; 0.8% protein; 0.1% fat; 87.6% carbohydrates; 0.4% crude fiber; 0.5% ash; 320 mg/kg calcium; 210 mg/kg phosphorous and; 220 mg/kg iron. Comparison of the proximate analysis results and the calculated caloric values of the seagrass seed flour and starch showed similarity with those of terrestrial origin.

I have never used Rice flour before. I think CC has maybe he could chime in on this one for us.

Re-adjust your mix and then post it up again for us to review.

V

 

[vonforne]

http://www.ecostudies.org/compost_tea_recipes.html

Nice link Carl.

V

 

[Highlight]

Deleted

 

[Clackamas Coot]

Thaks for the advise i shall look in to that more. i thought it seem to be a lil weird all that soil and only one cup.lol didnt seem right.Have your plants been better with the 1 cup with ever 1cbf of soil?

I'm not very exact and I use a scoop but it's between 1 - 1.5 cups to each 1 c.f. of mixed potting soil.

By volume (i.e. not weight unless you're measuring water, etc.), a cup is 8 oz. which is 16 tablespoons & 1 c.f. of potting soil is between 7 - 7.5 gallons (depending on who you ask and which manufacturer).

So if you add 1 cup of dry mix you'll be adding 16 tablespoons to 7 gallons of soil - 2.3 tablespoons to each gallon of potting soil. I rounded the number off but it's close enough.

HTH

CC

 

[Clackamas Coot]

Carl Carlson

Thank you for posting the link to the Cary Institute. They are an important contributor for the advancement of sustainable agriculture around the globe. Very good people with a vast amount of information and experience to share.

Definitely one to Bookmark!

CC

 

[Bennyweed1]

With what you have.........

For 18 gallons of soil

aou have 12 TBS too much N and 14 TBS too much P. Cut that mix to 36 TBS combined N and 18 TBS combined P.

With the Azomite and Dolomite lime I would cut the Greensand out of the mix also.

Rice flour




I have never used Rice flour before. I think CC has maybe he could chime in on this one for us.

Re-adjust your mix and then post it up again for us to review.

V

Okay I took your advice and changed my ratios a bit. I hope this looks better and better yet works as I envision. No wonder my cutting looked fried as hell when I stuck them into my original mix (the one I posted before). Ill be saving so much material with this advise! Thanks for your help!

This is how it looks now. This mix will be able to take me from start to finish? That aspect is essential!

5 gallons top soil
5 gallons local organic potting soil
5 gallons peat
1 gallon cotton burr
1 gallon compost with mycorrhiza
1 gallon EWC
4 gallons perlite- large and little chunks

N Count
Blood meal – ¾ cup
Alfalfa – ¾ cup
Bat Guano N – ¾ cup

P Count
Kelp Meal – ¼ cup
Bone Meal – ½ cup
Bat Guano P – ¼ cup
Green Sand – 1/8 cup

Azomite – 1/4 cup
Dolomite lime 1 ½ cup
Rice Flour 1/4 cup
Bene Bacteria 1/4 cup
Diatomaceous earth – 3/4 cup

 

[Yoric]

Rust spots/burns and wilting leaves

Rust spots/burns and wilting leaves

What is the ambient temperature in your cab? Lower leaf burn and upper leaf dis-figuration.

It is my guess that the temperature is too high along with the light being to close to the plant.

If I was to guess the leaf surface temps are around 100 +. What type of air circulation do you have? Are you exchanging air or supplementing with C0²?

V

Temp is mid-80s with the light on; I followed the can-you-hold-your-hand-there-comfortably-all-day guideline for lamp height and then raised it a few inches to account for fast growth. I'm using a 50cfm bathroom fan for circulation; air comes in the bottom front of the cab and out the top rear. No C0² supplementation.

The idea of the heat being too high made me think: is it possible that this is caused by great temperature fluctuation? I had the fan on all the time because I was vegging in a different part of the cab and then I stopped vegging and it got cold here, so I think the cab may have dropped to the low 60s or below for a few nights. I've got the fan running now only when the light is on, and I can also use the vegging fan to regulate the temperature in the flowering box.

I really appreciate your help, as does my poor baby. Thank you.

 

[CT Guy]

http://www.ecostudies.org/compost_tea_recipes.html

I'm still new to this aspect of growing, but have been using the above recipes and they seem to be working. I can see fungal growth on the top layer in the containers. The ladies look good. The broth smells good... I'm basically just switching off between the three.

Couple of comments on the above listed recipes:

1. I don't think we need to be making bacterial or fungal teas. Make a balanced tea that provides all the necessary sets of organisms for nutrient cycling.

2. Don't bother with fish emulsion at all. Fish hydrolysate is much better and is an excellent fungal food in small quantities.

3. "Mycorrhizal Tea" is obtained by adding mycorrhizal fungi spores to the working brew. The spores will germinate within a few hours after being introduced into the tea solution. This statement is just plain wrong

4. Lastly, if you have good aeration, and your ingredients are soluble, then you don't need to put them into the bag with the compost. I get better results with more ingredients floating around in the greater container.

 

[milehighmedical]

.

 

[Madrus Rose]

Couple of comments on the above listed recipes:

1. I don't think we need to be making bacterial or fungal teas. Make a balanced tea that provides all the necessary sets of organisms for nutrient cycling.

2. Don't bother with fish emulsion at all. Fish hydrolysate is much better and is an excellent fungal food in small quantities.

3. "Mycorrhizal Tea" is obtained by adding mycorrhizal fungi spores to the working brew. The spores will germinate within a few hours after being introduced into the tea solution. This statement is just plain wrong

4. Lastly, if you have good aeration, and your ingredients are soluble, then you don't need to put them into the bag with the compost. I get better results with more ingredients floating around in the greater container.

Is this Bountea fungal activator an item they've put out more recently ? And i wasn't aware that fish hydroslate & emulsion were that different . You say to add only very little , they recommend 3oz's below to 25gals in Carl's link . Is it worth adding or trying to brew with a fungal activator in tea form ? You indicate this is just wrong ? tia

Bountea Fungal activator:http://www.bountea.com/product.php?proid=43&sub_catid=&page=1-lb%20Fungal%20Activator

And nice link Carl, to EcoSytem Studies , tx
http://www.ecostudies.org/compost_tea_recipes.html

and their recipies for 25gals on the left & 5gals on the right