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Heaths latest tree grow

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cyat

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Cheers!
 

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Rip Current

New member
The level in the rez is set so that the water level in the bucket is touching or a couple of inches above the bottom of the the inner bucket (the one with the holes drilled in it). The reason for this is I dont like cord roots (the type you see in bubbler bucket grows) to me this is wasting root space.

Here are some pics showing what I mean, these aren't my pics I am only using them to illustrate my point. If you look closely you can see that the roots nearest the bottom of the pot are like cords, this type of root develops when you have a gap between your nutrient level and the pot. I prefer not to have this type of root system as the cords do very little other than support the weight of the roots below.

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Here are the roots in a Aquafarm and as you can see they are quite different, this is due to the level being set higher than the pot, and the recirculating nutrient solution. You might notice in the next two pics you can see the water level on the pots. This is the type of root system you should strive for.

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Thank you Heath for this nugget of information. I've been experimenting with drops in water level because I read somewhere, can't remember where right now, that a drop in water level will allow the roots to uptake more oxygen. I think the post or article went on to say that the water level drop will also imitate drought conditions to trigger increased oil production. Do you have any comments on this theory?

I've been running my solution about 2 inches below the bottom of my baskets since about week 3 of bloom and currently with 2 weeks left in bloom. I would like to hear your opinion on either raising the water to your recommended levels this late in bloom or conserve the water b/c it won't make much of a difference since I already have the cords.
 
D

DHF

Rip.......it`s all about all them yrs of "on the job training".......Glad yas hollered and asked about "cord roots" in fast hydro setups........

Here again the debate comes back because of other databases being dead and gone...........

As plain as the nose on your face is the explanation Heath summarizes as the reason NOT to allow an air gap/space between the upper and lower containers for optimum yields is so "NO" cord roots will develop due to being in air instead of nutrient solution.....

The air gap causes the roots to spin and form "cords" for preservation of the feed juice in drought situations , while causing plant energy to be diverted to adjusting to environmental conditions for plant preservation rather than pumpin energy for stretch or budsite formation with a dialed setup as it should be......

Proof`s in the puddin...........Heathie`s bottom rootmass is epic healthwise and yieldwise compared to the other illustrations.............

No air/fluid gaps between upper and lower containers in fast hydro........

Peace........DHF.......:ying:...........
 

Rip Current

New member
DHF: Thanks and it really is all about the on the job training. Even though I've been doing this for about 6 years now, I still feel like a beginner.

Fast hydro setups are the best! After about 3 years of successful bio-bucket variations I've moved onto the UC. I have to say that pulling water is much better than pushing IMO.

Raising water level now :tiphat:
 
Very glad to see heath back and posting. This guy is a legend in his own right! One of the greatest! No doubt about it. Hope he returns with some more brain food for us! Keep doing what you do Heath. You are the man
 

UrbanAero

New member
Ive been using Ionic nutrients for a week now and improvement is amazing, gotta say Ive wasted a lot of money on nutrients when the simple 1 part was the best the whole time. Too bad its so hard to find Ionic in the USA, they sell clonex everywhere.
 

ILoveit

Member
I cant believe I missed this!
Im now wondering if I should 3 x 600W or 5 x 600W for my 2 flowering trees...mmmmm

Keep up the good work Heath, whats the latest with the tree grow in your 114L polytank?

Actually Id like to know what the status is with dizzy aswell.
 

Two-Dogs

Member
I just ran a check to see if Ionic nutes are available in Australia and they are and they are at my hydro shop. I used GH nutes once , the hydro dude actually gave me a bottle of grow free (wanted all the GH gone he said) coz no one buys GH nutes in Australia coz they cost about 3 times more than any of the competitors including Canna who Id rate as top quality.
Finally I feel in sync with you guys as many things available in the USA are hard to get or three times the price here In Aus.
 

UrbanAero

New member
I just ran a check to see if Ionic nutes are available in Australia and they are and they are at my hydro shop. I used GH nutes once , the hydro dude actually gave me a bottle of grow free (wanted all the GH gone he said) coz no one buys GH nutes in Australia coz they cost about 3 times more than any of the competitors including Canna who Id rate as top quality.
Finally I feel in sync with you guys as many things available in the USA are hard to get or three times the price here In Aus.

your stoked, I guarantee better results and greener leaves with Ionic, so easy/cheap its not right. My local shop can special order it but I have to order 300$ of it and they will never carry it in stock. I guess it would solve too many problems for their customers and they wouldnt come back buying supplements. all about the $$, a good hydro store wont try to sell you a product for every problem you have. Luckily I found Heath and he shared his knowledge to all, I am also building a D.I.Y 4 plant UC system with 1-600w HPS surrounded by 4 plants. Using 2 gallon square buckets that fit into 4.25 gallon square buckets with 1000gph pump, Ionic nutes, and at a location where "mexican cartel dirt weed" is all there is around and my goods go for 500$USD/OZ. Here in cali I can barely get 250/OZ, poor sapps on the east coast have to pay so much for such poor herbs.
 

cyat

Active member
Veteran
Growing strong!Bubba and Purple Bubba.No training or topping.About 4weeks.
Thanks Heath!
 

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cyat

Active member
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BL,
Thanks!Hard to tell but the side branches are catching up to the top.Need to borrow a 6 from my flower girls while they rest.Roots are filling the bottom tank.This is outperforming every style I have ever tried.:)
 

cyat

Active member
Veteran
Calling all tree growers,
I'm trying to figure out how to support the main stalk to the bucket and/or hydroton.Cant tie to the ceiling since it still has to move to the flower room eventually.She's getting extremely big and leaning.Any ideas?Coco or soil I would just bamboo stake it, but I'm new to this medium and system.Also any opinions on flipping her?Now or wait?I'm not really in a hurry.Here's some pics of whats goin on now.The yellow lidded thing is my homemade cloner, were it all started.Vegging in it now till I set up a new hydro system.Cloners work better for this type of system.The roots are starting to fill out the 27 gal bottom tank.Any opinions ,and advice is welcome!Heath, where you at?:)Need the right strain for this system ,as this bubba grows o.g. type hershys kiss shaped nugs.this is growing 10x better(no exaggeration) than the same bubba in coco_On the left is purple bubba(bubbaxerkle)Not a great vegger and it is 2 weeks behind the reg. bubba, but still happy with the structure.
 

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