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Heaths latest tree grow
- Thread starter heath robinson
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D
DHF
Vinegar as well as citric acid break down fast and don`t last in circulating systems Mistress........
Battery acid`s "old school" Commercial Grower/Cropper shit not many folks know about........Cheap as fuck and works fine.......a little goes a long way......
I always used phosphoric acid by GH for added P while droppin juice into required ph ranges.......I usedta set my rez`s at 5.2 and when I got back a week later ta check on shit , ph had risen to 6.1-6.2 ish........worked well.........
Shroomy........Gotta add the flux capacitor ......won`t run without it.........hope yas can find one......last I heard they were on backorder........
Cyat.......I`ll be pullin fer yas Bro.........I like the swivel T idea......If it ain`t broke don`t fix it.......air to roots is tricky as I said......maybe add it down the road if yas see the need for more dissolved oxygen to the bottom containers......
Rez and bottom container solution temps are as important if not moreso than dissolved O2 cuz if the juice is too hot , the dissolved O2 availability to the plants goes way down , and here comes root rot round the corner ta ruin yer day.....Quick .......
Go getchas a floating pool/hot tub thermometer........They`re cheap and will letchas know what rez temps are stayin at while keepin it simple..........
Peace......DHF................
Battery acid`s "old school" Commercial Grower/Cropper shit not many folks know about........Cheap as fuck and works fine.......a little goes a long way......
I always used phosphoric acid by GH for added P while droppin juice into required ph ranges.......I usedta set my rez`s at 5.2 and when I got back a week later ta check on shit , ph had risen to 6.1-6.2 ish........worked well.........
Shroomy........Gotta add the flux capacitor ......won`t run without it.........hope yas can find one......last I heard they were on backorder........
Cyat.......I`ll be pullin fer yas Bro.........I like the swivel T idea......If it ain`t broke don`t fix it.......air to roots is tricky as I said......maybe add it down the road if yas see the need for more dissolved oxygen to the bottom containers......
Rez and bottom container solution temps are as important if not moreso than dissolved O2 cuz if the juice is too hot , the dissolved O2 availability to the plants goes way down , and here comes root rot round the corner ta ruin yer day.....Quick .......
Go getchas a floating pool/hot tub thermometer........They`re cheap and will letchas know what rez temps are stayin at while keepin it simple..........
Peace......DHF.........
.......
Mistress,
I use sulphuric acid from napa auto.$8 makes 4 gallons of concentrate.Dont like phosporic acid ph down in veg , and it costs more.Sulphuric acid gives plants sulphur and helps process excess calcium in my tap.Mistress , from my experience vinegar in hydro is horrible, it creates chunks and slime as it is broken down by bacteria.Dhf youre right on point as usual.Thanks for the encouragement and positive energy!The tee off the pump in the res can be pointed any direction I like to brerak the surface water.The idea is from one of heaths previous grows.My innovation is an end cap with small holes drilled to make more bubbles.I have tried both air and water to circulate a res and the water pump works better.Dhf temps are chill Im in the hills ,and I do have extra flux capacitators if anybody needs one, this is the secret part that makes it all work!
I use sulphuric acid from napa auto.$8 makes 4 gallons of concentrate.Dont like phosporic acid ph down in veg , and it costs more.Sulphuric acid gives plants sulphur and helps process excess calcium in my tap.Mistress , from my experience vinegar in hydro is horrible, it creates chunks and slime as it is broken down by bacteria.Dhf youre right on point as usual.Thanks for the encouragement and positive energy!The tee off the pump in the res can be pointed any direction I like to brerak the surface water.The idea is from one of heaths previous grows.My innovation is an end cap with small holes drilled to make more bubbles.I have tried both air and water to circulate a res and the water pump works better.Dhf temps are chill Im in the hills ,and I do have extra flux capacitators if anybody needs one, this is the secret part that makes it all work!
D
DHF
Knew this wasn`t your first rodeo.........Go on and teach us as it develops Bro.......Glad yas got things under control.......
Peace.....DHF..........
Peace.....DHF.....
.....Thanks bro! That's good to hear because I'm wanting to try out these one part nutes soon. And I'm hating to waste all of that water running RO. In just a few post from you and DHF I'm learning so much. If running tap is it really necessary to run the battery acid as a PH down? Thanks again!!
D2G
MyGreenToe
Member
I love this thread. Even while heath's busy knockin it out in the real world, it's still the best thread around.
cheers
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Dhf, respect!Not trying to teach , I am learning as I go.I value your knowledge.This is my first time with active hydro , besides my homemade aero cloners , and some minor success with aquaponics.Most of my experience is soil ,and coco.I prefer coco now.D2G , you can adjust ph with whatever works for you ,and your water.With my ro water nutrients set the ph perfect without adjusting.My tap needs alot of down.Mistress I used white vinegar, for how much is needed it was not cost effective, and it made my water nasty.I would never use in hydro, ever again or recomend it!MGT this system rocking!I'll post some pics.Not trying to hijack, figured it would be ok since my designs comes from heaths autocad.
Cyat,
What nutes are you using for coco. I'm in coco right now too and was thinking about the Ionic one part or maybe even Maxibloom with tap. I know this is the hydro section and I do apologize if I'm getting off topic. Just trying to get as KISS as possible!
D2G
D2G,
IN coco I prefer house and garden, with ro water and all h@g additives-minus algen.I feed on the light side and use humboldt verde in veg as well.I'm experimenting w/maxigro-bloom w tap and drip clean.My problem w maxi is getting it to dissolve.I shake it with hot water and let it sit but it still looks like laundry detergent swirling in my water.Have not used ionic in coco as I am conserving it for the hydro.I am loving the nutrifield coco,it kills the canna and bcuzz, gh coco did not work for me.The very most important thing for coco growing is to get true runoff!!!I use drippers dtw on roofing tin stadium style vert bulbs.My bubba in the hydro is outclassing the coco plants that are older, and the coco ones are getting more light.
IN coco I prefer house and garden, with ro water and all h@g additives-minus algen.I feed on the light side and use humboldt verde in veg as well.I'm experimenting w/maxigro-bloom w tap and drip clean.My problem w maxi is getting it to dissolve.I shake it with hot water and let it sit but it still looks like laundry detergent swirling in my water.Have not used ionic in coco as I am conserving it for the hydro.I am loving the nutrifield coco,it kills the canna and bcuzz, gh coco did not work for me.The very most important thing for coco growing is to get true runoff!!!I use drippers dtw on roofing tin stadium style vert bulbs.My bubba in the hydro is outclassing the coco plants that are older, and the coco ones are getting more light.
Billy Liar
Member
Hi peeps, I have to agree this thread is running nice and smooth, some help being passed around and taken on board, good to see..
RE res thermometer, I like to use a max-min thermometer, as these give a bit more of an idea as to what's happening whilst you're away, and if running heaters/chillers, will give an idea if equipment is handling the job well or not, or if equipment fails etc...
Nutrient temps are very important, as DHF said, at lower temps water has the ability to 'hold more Dissolved Oxygen' (good for root systems). But as temps rise the root system will respire more (good for root systems), thus needing more oxygen, but the 'Oxygen holding capacity' of water decreases at warmer temps (bad for root systems).
Sound like there's no Happy Medium......?
I've read roots like 24c many times (not great for DO), but there's good amounts of DO at 15c (too cold for good root respiration.) So in-between would be a good compromise, 19c, good respiration and good DO levels.. also just outside the optimum levels for nasty root pathogens too.. So 19c IMO is a good temp to strive for... Coupled with very good water movement and surface agitation (waterfall effect or similar) water should be at the point of 'saturation' all the time.
'Saturation' is the point where the pressure of oxygen in the atmosphere is equal to the pressure of oxygen in the water (affected by temperature).. This 'gas exchange' happens at the water's surface, so thats why its VERY important that the circulation pump runs 24/7.. to keep the water moving and DO levels as high as possible.
I hope that explains how and why these systems work so well, and why simplicity is key, and why temps are critical... (even if only briefly LOL). If you feel you need extra DO from air-stones, my advice would be to put the air-stones in the res and let the extra DO be carried around by the circulation pump....
I never had much trouble with vinegar (other than the smell LOL), I used cider vinegar, but found I used quite alot to get to 5.5ph...
With RO water (I too dislike the waste) I find that using some of the waste water helps bring the ph back into check without having to use any acid, and the plants seem to love it.. the waste from my RO is double filtered, once with charcoal so chlorine etc should be removed I think... If you are lucky enough to not need to use RO (tap water below 0.5ec) then I wouldn't even think about it, I find the waste 'wasteful' hehee...
peace
BL
RE res thermometer, I like to use a max-min thermometer, as these give a bit more of an idea as to what's happening whilst you're away, and if running heaters/chillers, will give an idea if equipment is handling the job well or not, or if equipment fails etc...
Nutrient temps are very important, as DHF said, at lower temps water has the ability to 'hold more Dissolved Oxygen' (good for root systems). But as temps rise the root system will respire more (good for root systems), thus needing more oxygen, but the 'Oxygen holding capacity' of water decreases at warmer temps (bad for root systems).
Sound like there's no Happy Medium......?
I've read roots like 24c many times (not great for DO), but there's good amounts of DO at 15c (too cold for good root respiration.) So in-between would be a good compromise, 19c, good respiration and good DO levels.. also just outside the optimum levels for nasty root pathogens too.. So 19c IMO is a good temp to strive for... Coupled with very good water movement and surface agitation (waterfall effect or similar) water should be at the point of 'saturation' all the time.
'Saturation' is the point where the pressure of oxygen in the atmosphere is equal to the pressure of oxygen in the water (affected by temperature).. This 'gas exchange' happens at the water's surface, so thats why its VERY important that the circulation pump runs 24/7.. to keep the water moving and DO levels as high as possible.
I hope that explains how and why these systems work so well, and why simplicity is key, and why temps are critical... (even if only briefly LOL). If you feel you need extra DO from air-stones, my advice would be to put the air-stones in the res and let the extra DO be carried around by the circulation pump....
I never had much trouble with vinegar (other than the smell LOL), I used cider vinegar, but found I used quite alot to get to 5.5ph...
With RO water (I too dislike the waste) I find that using some of the waste water helps bring the ph back into check without having to use any acid, and the plants seem to love it.. the waste from my RO is double filtered, once with charcoal so chlorine etc should be removed I think... If you are lucky enough to not need to use RO (tap water below 0.5ec) then I wouldn't even think about it, I find the waste 'wasteful' hehee...
peace
BL
that is the calcium dissolving, or trying to dissolve in same solution as phosphates & sulfates. the cal in maxi seem, maybe in slow release form. maybe mix in warm water 1/2-1hr before apply. or, use 2 tanks. 1 cal, 1 pksmg,mn, b, fe, etc...
maybe try feed cal, or cal-mag type fert separate from p-k-mg-s... every other feed, in coco. different tanks. maybe.... maxi-cal-maxi-cal, etc... magical from technaflora seem ok
. it have 2 forms fe, & cal.if the granules form @ bottom of tank, that maybe cal-sulfate, or cal-phosphate, a solid form due to precipitation (reverse of dissolving). reaction occur, maybe when ph not acid enough & when certain elements mixed in high concentrations....
dripcleen maybe help, it seem surfacant. maybe not, as surfacant part phosphate, too...
mag-sulf fed separately, too. 300+ppm k+...
1-2" of water @ bottom, ok... it reduce water stress, as coco release lot of water during 24h, during transevaporation. that concentrate ferts & squeeze out anions, which held most in water, not on/in media... 1-2" water @ bottom, ok. water (cal) transport continue. cal immobile, but travel w/ h20...the graph not linear. they require more water than fert, @ certain moments during season.
if place 2" water @ bottom of containers, roots find that & draw it up (sub-irrigation), mainly during off-lyght period. that water can be re-distributed up to & thru media, maybe...
good thread.
MyGreenToe
Member
This thread should be stickied.
Billy,
Thanks for the info, as I thought air stones can introduce heat and d.o so its a balancing act.Im gonna keep rockin with no air, if its not broke.....The tee on my water pump breaks the surface of the water and circulates it.I used $store white vinegar, maybe that was problem?$8 sulphuric makes 4gal. of ph down, so Im good.Mistress off topic but,Im not so concerned with maxi not mixing, since the girls love it.After one feed of maxigro,and drip clean, they are exploding.I noticed a growth spurt right away , and could actually see them grow all night!Mistress plants in coco will grow sitting in water but you will get salt buidup/lockout of some form.This is from hard earned experience!!!The exception is hempys because the water pushed out the drain hole is not absorbed back in the bucket.Ive done saucers,plates,kitty litter pans,let them sit in it and suck back the juice.Real runoff works better!IMHO.Drain to waste, means to take the runoff away, or else it would be called dtn(drain to nowhere)or maybe dtp(drain to plate)Anyway Ill put some pics in minute of The recirculating I built from heats auto cad.
Thanks for the info, as I thought air stones can introduce heat and d.o so its a balancing act.Im gonna keep rockin with no air, if its not broke.....The tee on my water pump breaks the surface of the water and circulates it.I used $store white vinegar, maybe that was problem?$8 sulphuric makes 4gal. of ph down, so Im good.Mistress off topic but,Im not so concerned with maxi not mixing, since the girls love it.After one feed of maxigro,and drip clean, they are exploding.I noticed a growth spurt right away , and could actually see them grow all night!Mistress plants in coco will grow sitting in water but you will get salt buidup/lockout of some form.This is from hard earned experience!!!The exception is hempys because the water pushed out the drain hole is not absorbed back in the bucket.Ive done saucers,plates,kitty litter pans,let them sit in it and suck back the juice.Real runoff works better!IMHO.Drain to waste, means to take the runoff away, or else it would be called dtn(drain to nowhere)or maybe dtp(drain to plate)
Anyway Ill put some pics in minute of The recirculating I built from heats auto cad.
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If you don't mind bro, I'm going to PM you when you have enough post to help me out with a couple of things. I'm using h&g withall the additives too, but I don't want to trash this thread with coco stuff as this is Heath's RDWC thread.
D2G
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