Electrician needed

[rives]

i have it already where do i look for the UL approval?

There should be a green (maybe red?) sticker that says "U.L. Approved" or "Underwriter's Laboratories" on it.

 

[humble1]

you might need to run 8 gauge to the mlc 8 (not sure about that, to be honest) but you can certainly run 12 gauge from it. setting up a whole room in 8 gauge will be unnecessarily expensive and most hoods and ballast have cords that are only 14 gauge and matching 14 gauge with 8 gauge is an awkward fit.

 

[newhiddengrower]

you might need to run 8 gauge to the mlc 8 (not sure about that, to be honest) but you can certainly run 12 gauge from it. setting up a whole room in 8 gauge will be unnecessarily expensive and most hoods and ballast have cords that are only 14 gauge and matching 14 gauge with 8 gauge is an awkward fit.

if my whole room im using total of 7,000 Watts what gauge do i need?

 

[mdk ktm]

Go read the electricity and wiring threads in the growroom designs forum.. You need an electrician. Or atleast spend some time reading a book on wiring or electricity. Your questions are worrying. I dont understand why you are asking how many amps your whole house can run? If you are only using 4000 watts? Depending on how much other shit you are going to run, you could disconnect a 240 dryer, water heater, or oven breaker and hook up your main line to your grow room....

 

[newhiddengrower]

you might need to run 8 gauge to the mlc 8 (not sure about that, to be honest) but you can certainly run 12 gauge from it. setting up a whole room in 8 gauge will be unnecessarily expensive and most hoods and ballast have cords that are only 14 gauge and matching 14 gauge with 8 gauge is an awkward fit.

the chart says a 8 gauge 7680watts, so i dont understand why its unecessarily if im running 7k watts.

 

[newhiddengrower]

Go read the electricity and wiring threads in the growroom designs forum.. You need an electrician. Or atleast spend some time reading a book on wiring or electricity. Your questions are worrying. I dont understand why you are asking how many amps your whole house can run? If you are only using 4000 watts? Depending on how much other shit you are going to run, you could disconnect a 240 dryer, water heater, or oven breaker and hook up your main line to your grow room....

not gonna hire a electrician. I know how to do the wiring, i just dont know what gauge wires i need and that is why i am asking it here before i do it.

 

[mdk ktm]

the chart says a 8 gauge 7680watts, so i dont understand why its unecessarily if im running 7k watts.

What else would you wire with 8 gauge besides the lighting controller?

 

[newhiddengrower]

What else would you wire with 8 gauge besides the lighting controller?

I wire a power surge to the lighting controller too, so the 2HP water chiller/ 12" vortex fan and others will go through the 8 gauge wire too.

 

[joe fresh]

these are max loads

60amp=6ga
40amp=8ga
30amp=10ga
20amp=12ga
15amp=14ga

That's standard.

now to be safe only run your wires at 80% of max loads

 

[mdk ktm]

I wire a power surge to the lighting controller too, so the 2HP water chiller/ 12" vortex fan and others will go through the 8 gauge wire too.

what do you mean will go through the 8 gauge? are you going to split it or something before the lighting controller? Or are you going to run multiple lines? If you are just going to wire receptacles for the pump and fan, you don't need 8 gauge.

 

[humble1]

I know how to do the wiring.

let him do what he wants. when people don't listen they get what they deserve.

 

[Tilt]

This is all I got to say on this.

 

[newhiddengrower]

what do you mean will go through the 8 gauge? are you going to split it or something before the lighting controller? Or are you going to run multiple lines? If you are just going to wire receptacles for the pump and fan, you don't need 8 gauge.

The Chiller will be plugged into that power surge.

 

[rives]

It's become pretty obvious from the questions that you ask that you don't even know what questions to ask. You should take MDK's advice on getting a book so that you can get the fundamentals covered. Failing that, carefully study the picture that Tilt posted. Also, keep in mind that the lighting controller that you bought can put either 120 or 240 on the receptacles, and you can plug something into it that isn't going to enjoy it. I am amazed that something with that level of potential liability made it to market.

 

[newhiddengrower]

thanks for your concern but i really cant hire an electrician because i dont know one that i can trust, but after reading the MLC instructions it says to use a 8 gauge wire. So i have my question answered.

 

[denmaster]

the smaller the number the thicker the wire...more conductive material to carry the current...also more current to snuff out the inexperienced "know-it-alls"....sad but true...

peace out

 

[Stress_test]

I was looking at that the other day and wondering if it came UL approved. The receptacles are apparently a proprietary item for CAP from what I could find. I have a hard time believing that UL would go for something that isn't NEMA compliant and allowed you to use either 120 or 240 on the same plug configuration, unless I'm missing something there. After you get it, could you post if it has UL approval?

The receptacles are designed the accept either 120 or 240 plugs. Standard every day stuff, but dangerous for some people to use and dangerous anyplace where 120 and 240 "both" are being used because either will plug in. Obvious reasons like radios explode when plugged into 240 and stuff like that...

Anyway I don't see any reason for anybody to buy one. A sub panel off of a dryer or electrical furnace will handle over 7500 watts for short runs and then everything else can plug into the sub panel.

 

[Squire5683]

Heres my two cents... I wire many stealth operations. The main thing you also have to worry is your power feed from the pole. Ive been sitting at a house waiting for the power company to come and fix a problem we created on the pole. Nice big house, were running 8000W lighting, A/C's etc. The little ol lady that was here never used too much of anything. Were near the beach, and when we tested our large load, it blew a small fitting on pole due to corrosion and age. And let me tell you, power companies give a low priority to power outages. If you tell them theres sparks flyig from the pole, theyll be out quick. One guy came out last saturday, looked at problem, gave us 110v to the house, and said they 'might' be out by next wednesday. So wshat im saying is, get everything fired up for a few days and see how it all goes, before you lose your babies.

 

[mdk ktm]

So you are going to run 8 gauge 240 to your stupid lighting controller, and then plug that piece of shit 110 surge protector into that? and run your 110 chiller and fan on 240? Hmm that sounds like a really great plan! Take that lighting controller back. Do you know what size 240 breaker you are going to run off? probably either 30, 40, 50? I am building a 4kw room right now, 2kw flip flop. And I ran 8 gauge off my 40 amp dryer breaker. I will go get a camera tonight and take a picture just for you!


I am not an electrician, but I read, and asked people questions to LEARN! You dont even know what questions to ask man, im trying to help you here.

WHAT SIZE BREAKER ARE YOU PLANING TO PULL OFF OF?

and build a sup panel with some heavy duty timers, fuck that lighting controller. I will go right now to get a camera, im taking an hour drive just to try to help you bro!

 

[mdk ktm]

shitty phone picture, the cocksuckers that had my camera lost the fuckin cpu cord.

So you can see the a couple things there on the panel, that big wire is going to be ran to a 240 plug that will be attached to the board. So the board is basically plug and play. I can unplug it and walk away with the whole board in a matter of seconds if need be. I should have had 6 240 receptacles instead of 4. But i can always do that later. What i like about the board is that If i want to run more lights, i just have to get a bigger breaker. And add a couple more receptacles.


And i went with digital timers this time, that way i can have an exact on and off time. The analog timers were always just a little bit off and would occasionally flip the breaker.