What's new

House & Garden feed chart users, some random updates and info I found

  • Thread starter Guywithoutajeep
  • Start date
G

Guywithoutajeep

I'm still waiting for an answer as to why my particular chart has Algen Extract blocked out. All the info comes from the N. American distributor so it's a safe source I think.

Why does the feed chart say "Never use an oxygen pump in the nutrient container or on the growth table."


This is an error on the feed chart. We have tested House & Garden extensivly in aeroponic, deep water culture, and ebb & flow hydroponic systems with great success. We have done side-by-side test runs with two ebb & flow tables, where the only difference was the addition of air pumps in the reservoir. There were no differences in the results.
Finally, we have tested Roots Excelurator in aeroponic cloners such as the EZ Cloner and Power Cloner with wonderful results. So go ahead and use an air pump if you wish.


Which House & Garden products are organic?


The following products are permitted under appendix II of decree (ECC) No 2092/91 pertaining to the organic production method:

  • Roots Excelurator
  • Multi Zyme
  • Bud-XL
  • Bio 1-Component Soil (base nutrient)
Basically, this means that the European Union has said that all of the ingredients that make up the above products come from certified organic sources, which makes the product itself organic.

We are currently in the process of getting OMRI certification for these products, but this may take a year or more.



Wow, House & Garden seems expensive. Does it really cost that much?


While some of the products like Roots Excelurator do have high MSRP's, they are the most concentrated nutrient on the market. As an example, Roots Excelurator's 500ml MSRP is $127.00 and is used at 1.1ml per gallon of feed water. This means that that Roots Excelurator costs LESS than 28 cents per gallon of feed water. Compare that to anything else on the market, and you'll see yourself how inexpensive House & Garden truly is.
In fact, we know how inexpensive House & Garden is compaired to Botanicare or even General Hydroponics that we created this chart. (150k PDF)

How should I got about mixing my House & Garden A&B nutrients?


1) Fill your reservoir with reverse osmosis (R/O) water at room temperature. If you do not have R/O water, make sure you have clean tap water (under 100ppm)
2) Determine the week of growth or flower you are in. Note this on your feed chart.
3) Add the amount of "A" base nutrient suggested by the feeding chart. Ensure proper circulation and note the color made by the iron in the "A" is evenly distributed throughout the reservoir.
4) Add the amount of "B" base nutrient suggested by the feeding chart. Ensure proper circulation.
5) Adjust pH of the nutrient solution. For hydroponics applications, a range of 5.5 to 6.2 is suggested, with 5.8 being optimal. For Soil applications, a range of 6.5 to 7.0 is suggested, with 6.8 being optimal.
6) Add the recommended amount of the additives as suggested by the feed chart, one at a time.
Your nutrient water is ready.
Notes:

  • Top Booster's line in the feed chart may be confusing. If your plants take 8 weeks to flower, you would add Top Booster only once to your nutrient reservoir in the 5th week about 2 or 3 days into the week.
  • Never use Top Booster and Shooting Powder at the same time. They will lock up the nutrients and they will not get into your plants.
  • Shooting Powder is added in the last three weeks. On the third from the last week, add one sachet per 25 gallons. On the last two weeks before harvest, add two sachets per 25 gallons.



How do I use Shooting Powder if I'm trying to mix less than 25 gallons of feed water?


Here's the trick: Fill a one gallon container (like an old bottled water or cleaned out milk jug) 2/3 full with luke-warm water and add one sachet of Shooting Powder to it. The Shooting Powder will fizz and bubble. Wait for the fizzing to slow, and then top off the water. Put the lid on the container and shake to ensure the Shooting Powder is fully dissolved. This gallon is now an impromptu Shooting Powder concentrate.
Now, you can add 151ml of your new Shooting Powder concentrate per gallon of feed water! It's just that easy.


Why does the feed chart say "Don't use Shooting Powder in a system without a drain"?


The warning at the bottom of the feed chart about Shooting Powder came about due to a translation error. The next version of the feed chart will not say this. The original meaning that this was trying to convey is after using Shooting Powder, you must not re-use the medium with seedlings or young cuttings. The remaining Shooting Powder in the medium may burn plants under 10 inches tall.
To reuse the medium, either thoughtly rinse the medium or wait until the plants are over 10 inches tall to transplant.


Can I use an air pump in my House & Garden nutrient reservoir?


Yes! Please feel free to add air and oxygen to your nutrient reservoir. What was printed on the feed chart is misleading and has to do with a strange translation error. Unfortunately, pallets of those feed charts were printed before this error was detected, so we have been giving them out until we run out.
The next feed chart will not contain this error. Thank you for understanding.


What's the difference between the Soil A&B and either the 1-Component Aarde or Bio 1-Component?


All of the A&B base nutrients in the House & Garden line have 11-12% calcium included in the "A" bottle, while both the Bio 1-Component and the 1-Component Aarde and designed for soils that have been amended with lime.
If you plan on using either 1-Component base nutrient, amend your soil with lime per directions on the bag of lime.
 
G

guest5703

What about the addition of Cal/Mag to the RO water?

oohhh come on! I came in here loving the info and the first question someone asked is on my mind heavily! What is the answeeeeer?!?!?!?
 

slowandeasy

Active member
Veteran
oohhh come on! I came in here loving the info and the first question someone asked is on my mind heavily! What is the answeeeeer?!?!?!?


I emailed them that question. There answer was NO cal-mag is needed...but there are certain plants that are super cal-mag whores and will need some. They put alot of cal-mag in their nutes, that is why they suggest RO water or low ppm water. I have the full line up and am going to give it a try next run.
 
I emailed them that question. There answer was NO cal-mag is needed...but there are certain plants that are super cal-mag whores and will need some. They put alot of cal-mag in their nutes, that is why they suggest RO water or low ppm water. I have the full line up and am going to give it a try next run.


Interesting always thought you had to add Cal mag back if you use RO. Sounds like H&G's ahead of the game.

Anyone use RO water w the H&G line w/o a CAL MAG additive?
 
T

Teeg420

On their website with the nutrient calculator it seems that the R/O is a recurring one and they say no, but mention to foliar with half strength if a plant needs it.

Short Answer No, but in reality it seems people have been needing to add it. Just from what I have read, I have no experience using this product.

Just purchased the coco a and b line with additives gonna give it a whirl.
 

Irie_Lion

Free up the Herbs....Let the Sacrament grow!
Veteran
I have been using the cocos a&b for the first time this cycle and so far im bout 7 wks into flower with no problems...Using RO water and havent added any additional cal/mag. But like Slow&easy said if your strain is a calmag whore u might need a lil bit! good vibez
 
G

guest5703

I guess we have some work to do in deciding if this Cal Mag is needed or not eh???

I am running Aqua Flakes A & B, with Cal mag and Silica Blast from botanicare. Along with Magic green foliar spray, Multi Zen and drip clean.

The Magic green seemed to help, but not much. I only used it one week in veg and my first week in flower.

The cal mag seems necessary, my plants are looking great and I've been using Cal Mag with my RO water at regular dosages every watering for a few weeks now, with one fresh RO watering in between weeks just to clear em out a bit.

So far so good.
 

MaynardG_Krebs

Active member
Veteran
I guess we have some work to do in deciding if this Cal Mag is needed or not eh???

I am running Aqua Flakes A & B, with Cal mag and Silica Blast from botanicare. Along with Magic green foliar spray, Multi Zen and drip clean.

The Magic green seemed to help, but not much. I only used it one week in veg and my first week in flower.

The cal mag seems necessary, my plants are looking great and I've been using Cal Mag with my RO water at regular dosages every watering for a few weeks now, with one fresh RO watering in between weeks just to clear em out a bit.

So far so good.

From the cloudy information I've managed to glean from VanDeZwaan, you should not have to use cal-mag if you are using Cocos A & B. If you are using Aquaflakes with some form of Coco for your substrate, you would probably need the cal-mag. I've been running the Cocos line for the past 6 months or so and see no calcium or magnesium deficiencies in a of my girls.

mgk :tiphat:
 

bilbobonger

Member
I heard awhile back that coco AB should only be used for drain to waste systems. Something about the AquaFlakes maintaining a more stable pH when being recirculated.

I'm growing in coco and recirculating my nutes. Wanted to find out which was recommended. And, if known, can someone please post the magnesium content for each (coco AB and Aquaflakes AB)?

Thanks

Nevermind about the Mg (1.7% in the B). Guess it helps to read over the bottle first.
 

MaynardG_Krebs

Active member
Veteran
I heard awhile back that coco AB should only be used for drain to waste systems. Something about the AquaFlakes maintaining a more stable pH when being recirculated.

I'm growing in coco and recirculating my nutes. Wanted to find out which was recommended. And, if known, can someone please post the magnesium content for each (coco AB and Aquaflakes AB)?

Thanks

Nevermind about the Mg (1.7% in the B). Guess it helps to read over the bottle first.

I've been experimenting with a recirculating system and it seems to be working fine. I'm only into it about 2 weeks now, but the plants seem to be happy. The pH did drop a little over the first 2 days, but stabilized. So... I started my next batch of nutes with the pH a little higher than I normally start at and it's settled right where I want it. I'll probably have to do a little more fiddling with that as the nute requirement goes up. I'm really happy with the results so far.

mgk :tiphat:
 

bilbobonger

Member
I've been experimenting with a recirculating system and it seems to be working fine. I'm only into it about 2 weeks now, but the plants seem to be happy. The pH did drop a little over the first 2 days, but stabilized. So... I started my next batch of nutes with the pH a little higher than I normally start at and it's settled right where I want it. I'll probably have to do a little more fiddling with that as the nute requirement goes up. I'm really happy with the results so far.

mgk :tiphat:

Thanks Maynard:)

The only difference I can see from the label between the two (Coco and AquaFlakes) is that the coco has a bit more nitrogen. I figured they would bump up the calcium/magnesium, perhaps lower the K :chin: :confused:
 
T

turtle farmer

has anyone used Muti Zen in soil??? the bigger question is can i give the zen every feeding in soil?? I'm trying to improve the root structure...lack of white roots on transplant.
I figure if hydro users have it in the reservoir,then the plants are getting it every feeding...
thanks for your help
tf
 

HydroCab

New member
>The only difference I can see from the label between the two (Coco and AquaFlakes) is that the coco has a bit more nitrogen. I figured they would bump up the calcium/magnesium, perhaps lower the K <

normally the salt used to add Calcium is Calcium nitrate, which would add a bit of nitrogen at the same time.

so this makes sense that Coco A&B would have a higher nitrogen level because of the added Calcium salt.

i also use this line with great results in a Drain to Waste Drip, no deficiencies at all. i mix R/O with tap at 1:1 to try and save a bit o money and labor haulin water around.
 

maxmurder

Member
Veteran
has anyone used Muti Zen in soil??? the bigger question is can i give the zen every feeding in soil?? I'm trying to improve the root structure...lack of white roots on transplant.
I figure if hydro users have it in the reservoir,then the plants are getting it every feeding...
thanks for your help
tf

i used it soil (ss#2) and also wanted bigger/better roots so i stopped the multizen and used hygrozyme all the way thru- horrible results. i called the h&g dist. humboldt, and asked about it and the guy said their roots ex will give you the best roots and not to change the h&g feed schedule cuz it could fuck everything up, he was right it did. i'm pretty sure that when you stop the multiz and start the budxl , the bud xl has enzymes in it.
as for calmag- my plants are mag/n whores so i foliar a couple times the first 3 weeks of bloom with fish and calmag, they love it, i'm not mixin up the chemistry of the feed schedule. i use the dm penatrator when foliar feeding which also raises the pH to 9 so it helps prevent any powdery mildew for getting on my leaves..
 
T

turtle farmer

Great info Max------I cant wait to add the roots ex,I just want to wait a week or two for the roots and plants improve----they didn't like the transplant and the roots were ugly...
I've watered by hand with water and Multi zen only and in 48 hors I see a great improvement..........................peace
tf
 

dusto2k3

Member
i use RO with Hydro A&B. I add calmag, but was never sure if i needed to, Maybe, I'll start scaling it back and eventually eliminate and see what happens.



Edit: Oh, BTW, I'm in hydroton
 
Last edited:
Top