F_T_P!
Member
I add 1/2-1 tsp. molasses per gallon of nutrients every watering during flower.
I flush at the end of flower for 10 days. I use 1 Tbls. molasses per gallon of RO water for the first 5 days then 5 days pH'd RO water only.
Let's talk about Molasses.
- Thread starter Psuper
- Start date
I add 1/2-1 tsp. molasses per gallon of nutrients every watering during flower.
I flush at the end of flower for 10 days. I use 1 Tbls. molasses per gallon of RO water for the first 5 days then 5 days pH'd RO water only.
Psuper
Member
I am sticking with my Wholesome Sweeteners brand molasses for the time-being but definately considering the Hibrix Molasses from EarthJuice next go around......Any more feedback on this particular brand? Anyone using a full tablespoon of the stuff?
Any more feedback on adding molasses in folair applications? Haven't tried this my self, how much are folks using?
Any more feedback on adding molasses in folair applications? Haven't tried this my self, how much are folks using?
GuerrillaRed
Member
Hey guys, I'm really sorry I totally forgot about this thread. How stereotypical is that? 
Yes sir H202, simple hydrogen peroxide.
The first time I dumped way too much molasses with it's regular feeding a few weeks before flush and the plants responded by rapidly yellowing and getting very sick with the bud becoming some of the stickiest most resonated weed I've ever seen and it had a sweet taste. The second time I OD'ed my plants during the flush, again rapid decay and again ridiculously sticky resonated weed with a sweet taste.
About two tablespoons per gallon in the flush of my last grow. I think this could be played with though.
I really think I stumbled on something through a n00b mistake awhile ago. It's pretty much become standard now in my flush to OD the plants on molasses.
Yes sir H202, simple hydrogen peroxide.
The first time I dumped way too much molasses with it's regular feeding a few weeks before flush and the plants responded by rapidly yellowing and getting very sick with the bud becoming some of the stickiest most resonated weed I've ever seen and it had a sweet taste. The second time I OD'ed my plants during the flush, again rapid decay and again ridiculously sticky resonated weed with a sweet taste.
About two tablespoons per gallon in the flush of my last grow. I think this could be played with though.
I really think I stumbled on something through a n00b mistake awhile ago. It's pretty much become standard now in my flush to OD the plants on molasses.
fishing time
Member
So, just to be clear, many of you are using molasses all the way through until chop? That is, no nutes just plain water PLUS MOLASSES for the last two weeks?
B
Bud Bug
No just mid/end of week 6. After that I flush and want the carbs out. I think its makes difference as I noticed better smoke when I cut out the carbs earlier then going all the way with molasses.
The plant doesn't actually take up molasses or any sugars through the roots. Molasses helps by feeding the beneficial microbes in your medium. I use Grandma's unsulphured molasses every watering (coco) @ 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons.
The only downside is I have ants in and around my plants now. No biggie..
The only downside is I have ants in and around my plants now. No biggie..
fishing time
Member
Thanks for the reply. It makes sense to me that removing sources of non-endogenous chems from the plant gives a cleaner smoke - and limits production of new chlorophyll, proteins in general and otherother icky tasties.
So when you went all the way to chop with molasses was it worse in terms of taste+burn+smoothness or potency+high or both?
I guess I am wondering how the drawbacks you mention from lingering carbohydrates relate to the pros (increased resin production) in the case of molasses overdose. It seems to me that in such a 'OD' situation the plant would be unable to eliminate the extra sugars before harvest just like feeding it normal amounts until the final day.
B
Bud Bug
Usually its harsher/blacker smoke. I don't know that the sugars do to the plant but I have noticed a difference in how the final product burns when I use carbs to the end.
maybe they can assimilate molasses (soluble matter) thru roots...
molasses have mineral matter, which provide k-ca-mg-fe-b1...
non-sugar organic matter portion provides minimal nitrogen:
crude protein/6.25=~nitrogen
this maybe helpful:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=3535548&postcount=16
Last edited:
Psuper
Member
Just wanted to mention here what ferts and supplements I am using with molasses.
Rooted clones in 4" pots are transplanted and finished in 5gallon buckets full of Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil.
Here's my most recent lineup, starting with molasses and a FoxFarm nutes base. I use the complete FF nute line :
Unsulphured organic blackstrap molasses (often using a full tablespoon per gallon of RO water)
Growbig
Big Bloom
Tigerbloom
(all from Foxfarm) (I follow their schedule but cut back the quantities recommended, duh).
Fox Farm solubles (for flowering)--- Open Sesame, Beastie Bloomz, Cha Ching
Supplements:
Humboldt County's Own whole supplement line---
Snowstorm Ultra
Gravity flower hardener
Bushmaster (I haven't/won't use Bushmaster with every clone or strain)
Purple maxx
****Don't listen to those saying that these products kill plants- some cultivators are just misusing these products. Snowstorm and Purple Maxx are used alongside your normal nutes while Bushmaster and Gravity should be used solo.
Silica Blast---- yep, using it indoors. How about you? (I was worried a bit about heat stress and read some posts from Magash recommending to add this at 1/4tsp per gl starting early in the vegetative cycle)
Optional Supplements:
Cal-Mag+ ----- (I've been adding just a couple ml to a gallon)
Sweet (berry)------- (Haven't been using this because I use a full tablespoon of molasses)
Thrive Alive B-1 (organic version)
(I bought this as a nutrient for newly rooting clones, but it is kelp based and could be added to the fertilizer mix if I wanted, but could also be used in a foliar spray)
Foliar Spray:
Transport (from Optic Foliar)--- this is a wetting and delivery agent, like Penetrator. (got a free sample, good for about seven mixes)
*Hmmm, it turns out my hydro shop isn't going to be carrying this product. If I decide to purchase a wetting/delivery agent I'll need to go with DM.
Thrive Alive B-1 (organic version)
(kelp based nutrient. Made by TechnaFlora)
FLUSHING:
Clearex (from Botanicare) ------- Often doing the two flushes. That is one a few days before flowering, and the final one before harvest. Sometimes I only do the final flush with my 5gallon buckets.
Rooted clones in 4" pots are transplanted and finished in 5gallon buckets full of Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil.
Here's my most recent lineup, starting with molasses and a FoxFarm nutes base. I use the complete FF nute line :
Unsulphured organic blackstrap molasses (often using a full tablespoon per gallon of RO water)
Growbig
Big Bloom
Tigerbloom
(all from Foxfarm) (I follow their schedule but cut back the quantities recommended, duh).
Fox Farm solubles (for flowering)--- Open Sesame, Beastie Bloomz, Cha Ching
Supplements:
Humboldt County's Own whole supplement line---
Snowstorm Ultra
Gravity flower hardener
Bushmaster (I haven't/won't use Bushmaster with every clone or strain)
Purple maxx
****Don't listen to those saying that these products kill plants- some cultivators are just misusing these products. Snowstorm and Purple Maxx are used alongside your normal nutes while Bushmaster and Gravity should be used solo.
Silica Blast---- yep, using it indoors. How about you? (I was worried a bit about heat stress and read some posts from Magash recommending to add this at 1/4tsp per gl starting early in the vegetative cycle)
Optional Supplements:
Cal-Mag+ ----- (I've been adding just a couple ml to a gallon)
Sweet (berry)------- (Haven't been using this because I use a full tablespoon of molasses)
Thrive Alive B-1 (organic version)
(I bought this as a nutrient for newly rooting clones, but it is kelp based and could be added to the fertilizer mix if I wanted, but could also be used in a foliar spray)
Foliar Spray:
Transport (from Optic Foliar)--- this is a wetting and delivery agent, like Penetrator. (got a free sample, good for about seven mixes)
*Hmmm, it turns out my hydro shop isn't going to be carrying this product. If I decide to purchase a wetting/delivery agent I'll need to go with DM.
Thrive Alive B-1 (organic version)
(kelp based nutrient. Made by TechnaFlora)
FLUSHING:
Clearex (from Botanicare) ------- Often doing the two flushes. That is one a few days before flowering, and the final one before harvest. Sometimes I only do the final flush with my 5gallon buckets.
Hi mistress.. perhaps roots can take up these minerals but I like to think I'm providing all that stuff with my base nutes and additives. I was only talking about the sugars in molasses.
Psuper
Member
fishing time
Member
Hey guys, how does molasses affect the pH of your water?
I check my pH using a color-indicator solution so after adding blackstrap molasses I can't recheck the pH. My base flowering fertilizer dissolves clear so that's not an issue, but what should my target pH be before adding 1 tsp molasses/gal?
Soon I will be starting a preflush using just water and molasses and I need to get the pH right. My tap water is around 8 and ordinarily my flowering fertilizer tends to buffer the water to around 6.5 but only using molasses and strong acid in pH down with no buffering capability I worry about throwing things off, particularly as I flush with a volume molasses/water to remove nitrogen sources.
I check my pH using a color-indicator solution so after adding blackstrap molasses I can't recheck the pH. My base flowering fertilizer dissolves clear so that's not an issue, but what should my target pH be before adding 1 tsp molasses/gal?
Soon I will be starting a preflush using just water and molasses and I need to get the pH right. My tap water is around 8 and ordinarily my flowering fertilizer tends to buffer the water to around 6.5 but only using molasses and strong acid in pH down with no buffering capability I worry about throwing things off, particularly as I flush with a volume molasses/water to remove nitrogen sources.
F_T_P!
Member
It will drop your pH.
M
Mitch Connor
I kind of had an epiphany just now..
During the final flush, is it really necessary to pH balance your water? Wouldn't the pH become sort of a moot point, since all you're wanting in the flush is for the plant to be using whatever stored nutrients it has left in the fan leaves/medium?
I know a rapid swing in pH, lets say from 5.8 to 8 would hurt a regular flowering plant, but in this case would it be fine?
If the pH is around 8, the ability for the plant to absorb the rest of the nutrients from the medium would become hard, obviously, but it seems it wouldn't be a huge factor, given the objectives of flushing.
During the final flush, is it really necessary to pH balance your water? Wouldn't the pH become sort of a moot point, since all you're wanting in the flush is for the plant to be using whatever stored nutrients it has left in the fan leaves/medium?
I know a rapid swing in pH, lets say from 5.8 to 8 would hurt a regular flowering plant, but in this case would it be fine?
If the pH is around 8, the ability for the plant to absorb the rest of the nutrients from the medium would become hard, obviously, but it seems it wouldn't be a huge factor, given the objectives of flushing.
ganjaments
Member
ya, i've been wondering about this also.. It seems counterproductive to be adding salts while simultaneously trying to flush them out.
JayTrinity
Member
How can you tell when to use molasses? Some are big as a baby arm and some are finger sized buds. Also I have no cash for nutrients and wanted to finish off with molasses, 2 weeks left on the first set and 3 and 4 on the others,.
Psuper
Member
If you're in soil than start using it early in veg, after first or second week. Bump up the amount you use during flowering, especially around the fourth and fifth week of flowering. Don't bother adding anything to you water during the flush in the end.
