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resources for carpentry and cabinet construction?

MrAwder

Member
There are so many amazing resources for almost every aspect of growing here at ICMag and I was just wondering if there is some good stuff hiding somewhere about the actual construction of cabs, or if we could get some handy individuals in here to give some tips and advice.

I just finished building my first cabinet by hand, and although it is functional and will get me through a few harvests, I feel disappointed overall with the way it came out after all the time I put into planning it. I'm already planning the replacement with all the knowledge I have learned from my mistakes, but am increasingly concerned with my ability to actually construct it.

I did some googling, but most articles and resources out there are aimed at kitchen cabinets and such which focus far more on aesthetics. So does anyone have some good basic carpentry resources? Framing, sheathing, different ways to attach doors, etc. Just some good general knowledge and tips for getting it right the first time.
 

DiscoBiscuit

weed fiend
Veteran
IMO, you'd be better off with basic cabinetry info instead of carpentry. Not sure if IC has that info here but a google of basic cabinetry should give you more than one could read in months. Most cabs don't require framing unless you're building a whopper, covering with plastic or a non-rigid exterior.

Square cuts will give you a square cab in the end, (even if it isn't a square cab, lol.) It's tough to make square cuts with hand tools unless you clamp a straight edge as a make-shift fence for the cuts.

A table saw (and a radial arm saw) make things much easier. If you don't have machines, the lumber yard might make the cuts for you if provided the dimensions.

Making a cab yourself is easy if you understand the principles and have a working drawing with dimensions to go by. Measure twice, cut once.

Give us a little more info, i.e. length x width x height, the material you plan to use, the type of door you want, etc. This may draw a similar builder/grower's response.
 

MrAwder

Member
Yea the main problem is I only have access to a circular saw and jigsaw and it is tough to make square cuts.

The cab I am looking to build is 60"W x 18-24"D x ~3' H

Regardless, I would want to frame it either way to try and keep the weight down somewhat and just cover it in some 1/8" material.

I found a kitchen base cabinet of these dimensions that I would just need to put a top on and am considering doing that... it is $160 and I may be able to find something cheaper. It almost seems worth it, but I know making it myself I can get exactly what I want, every step of the way.

Anyway, thanks for the input. I guess I will do some more research on basic cabinet building principles.
 

DiscoBiscuit

weed fiend
Veteran
Yeah, that's pretty big. Framing will be a good method. A framing square will help to square the braces when you put everything together. A tri-square is also invaluable for making square, cut-lines on each piece of material.

That's a pretty good price on the kitchen cab, even w/o the counter top.
 

someotherguy

Active member
Veteran
Yea the main problem is I only have access to a circular saw and jigsaw and it is tough to make square cuts.

The cab I am looking to build is 60"W x 18-24"D x ~3' H

Regardless, I would want to frame it either way to try and keep the weight down somewhat and just cover it in some 1/8" material.

I found a kitchen base cabinet of these dimensions that I would just need to put a top on and am considering doing that... it is $160 and I may be able to find something cheaper. It almost seems worth it, but I know making it myself I can get exactly what I want, every step of the way.

Anyway, thanks for the input. I guess I will do some more research on basic cabinet building principles.

high man, what you need is a jig for that circular saw.
i saw one on This Old House that clamps to the wood
being cut and gives the circular saw a 'fence' to ride
along to give long straight cuts.

anyway, here is a link to a thread here on ICMag that
will probably answer many of your questions.

ICMAG'S OFFICIAL ~DIY~ LINK-O-RAMA

hope this helps, SOG
 

FreezerBoy

Was blind but now IC Puckbunny in Training
Veteran
i saw one on This Old House that clamps to the wood
being cut and gives the circular saw a 'fence' to ride
along to give long straight cuts.

Do it all the time. Works great. When I built my Futon Frame, I had the mill make my cuts according to my plans. Yeah it was a few extra bucks but, we're talking perfect cuts accurate to 1/16 of an inch.
 

Derka

Member
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/61837-biscuitslayers-90-gallon-stand-canopy-build.html

My apologies for the offsite link. This is slightly off use, however if you scale back the framing and use 2x2, and use paneling or 1/4 ply to sheet with, you can build your cabinet for a lot less then 160 bucks. Take a gander at the link, the use of the screw strips is an innovative way of keeping things as simple as possible, and cheap.

The shopping list would be like..

4 - 2x2x8
1 or 2 - 4x8 ply/paneling
2 - euro hinges
1 - box of screws
1 - miter box and saw.

Thats about 40 - 50 bucks.

Hell if you use paneling you wouldn't even have to worry about dressing up the outside!
 

MrAwder

Member
FreezerBoy - I've never got wood from a mill. Just from home depot and I know they dont make accurate cuts. I used the wood/clamp circular saw method and got by, but it was still difficult to make long cuts, like on a 4x8. Maybe I will try and find somewhere around here that will do accurate cuts for me. Seems like the easiest route.

Derka - thanks for the link, it is actually extremely relevant... it won't be a fish tank I put on top, but very similar. And you are right I am probably much better off just doing this myself as it will be a good deal cheaper.

thanks for the responses
 
HD/Lowe's are extremely unreliable. i only use them for jobs that don't need to be EXACT. but when you're framing stuff up and need a LEVEL surface, you'll need to either look elsewhere or go an inch over on every cut so you can make them exact. with a hacksaw or a sander or something.
 

FreezerBoy

Was blind but now IC Puckbunny in Training
Veteran

No apologies needed. As a mod I can tell you the occasional on topic link is perfectly acceptable and your's was decidedly ON topic.

It occurs to me that Model Railroading might be an area to look into. Not for cabs but, for tables.

FreezerBoy - I've never got wood from a mill. Just from home depot and I know they dont make accurate cuts. I used the wood/clamp circular saw method and got by, but it was still difficult to make long cuts, like on a 4x8. Maybe I will try and find somewhere around here that will do accurate cuts for me. Seems like the easiest route.

While I wouldn't let HD cut my wood, I did get an 8 foot metal rail there for just this purpose. A couple of saw horses, a couple of C clamps and you're golden.
 

grouchy

Active member
I found a guy at lowes that knew how to use the saw very well. He cut all the pieces for my cabinet out and did a great job. I stood and watched every cut and was happy enough I tipped him well. Those employees are probably few and far between but can be found.

It was also nice to stick all the pieces in my suv without needing a truck or straps. My whole cabinet was made out of one 4'x8' piece of 1/2" plywood. There is a link in my sig if you want to check it out.
 

micro420guy

Member
you need a miter box for cutting clean angles. I just piicked on up from the local hardware store for $12. Comes with box and saw.

Miter-Box-and-Pull-Saw.jpg


Cragslist is a good place to find tools and cabinets for cheap or even free some times.
 

Derka

Member
I am most likely mistaken, but the cardboard style paneling that I was refering to can be scored and cut by a sharp razor blade and a straight edge. With the miter box and saw, if you can't cut a 2x2 straight you should probably go with a ready to assemble cabinet.. (also readily available at big box stores for about a hundred bucks.. save the 60 bucks and grab an e-conolight)
 

someotherguy

Active member
Veteran
i actually prefer something like this rather than one of
those high wattage, single bulb CFL systems, first, it's
way cheaper, plus, with multiple points of light you get
a more even distribution of light and heat over your
canopy.


another advantage is the ability to tweak your spectra,
with a single bulb, your spectra is whatever that bulb is.

peace, SOG
 
Good Afternoon MrAwder, :tiphat: I have been working on my project today and thought to show you how I do it without very many fancy tools.
CAUTION-I am not a professional. As my Father would say- "He's a self made man showing all the horrors of unskilled labor."
If you need two sheets of ply you are set to go. Use one sheet as a fence on top of your cut. A solid table to clamp to is really important. Here you can see a cut for the door. There is a stick of scrap below and I use an angle or a level as a fence- for my saw a 1 1/2" offset puts my blade on the line. I'll screw on the hinges before making the final cuts. The door has a 3/8" overlap on the 2 X 2 framing. I try to be very deliberate and slow, always measuring and squaring things up. Don't rush, building is challenging and fun. Good Luck Amigo! :wave:
 

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European style cabinet construction (thusly named due to the method's development during the reconstruction of said continent after WWII when materials were scarce and everything was blown to shit) is the simplest to fabricate and assemble with professional results and a minimum of goods. The Mills Pride and Ikea KD (Knock Down) case goods are the most prevalent example here in the States.

The absolutely best, safest, easiest to work with and unfortunately most expensive tools for building these boxes without a full blow wood shop are made by a German Company called Festool.

http://www.festoolusa.com/products/.../ts-55-eq-plunge-cut-circular-saw-561174.html

With their circular saw, medium or small plunge router and hole drilling guide you can duplicate the type of precision cuts and holes to build just about any kind of euro style case work. The Festool system allows you complete portability that is unique for such high quality results. I've built many complete kitchen cabinet sets using nothing else.

The Orange or Blue Borgs are still reasonable sources for melamine and hardwood plywood at reasonable prices, even if shopping there is a bight. My only warning there is to make sure you understand the industry quality grading scales before you buy there and don't forget that they move huge quantities of comodities based on lowest price providers.

You can also find quality sheet goods from on-line vendors at competitive prices depending on your proximity to freight forwarding depots.


http://www.formwood.com/domestic-hardwood-plywood.html

Grab a book at Amazon or the local library on the European method (much faster and more efficient than the traditional face frame style that is so popular here in the States).

http://www.amazon.com/Modern-Cabine...=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1279159643&sr=1-9

If you want figured or framed doors and drawers you can buy the door and drawer fronts already cut and even finished if you so wish from on-line suppliers like Sherr's. They aren't the cheapest, but they're stuff is good quality and the selection is quite good.

http://www.scherrs.com/


Hardware is cheapest at Big Lots or Wally World and like wise the stains and finishes. If you're into wood working as a hobby or vocation I can't recommend the Festool system enough, especially when combined with their dust evacuation systems. As I already mentioned however...their shit is expensive, but you'll never burn it up or wear it out so it's a matter of getting what you you pay for. Even used their stuff usually sells for 80% of retail so deals are few and far between.

If you want a complete book for beginners on carpentry and a bit on cabinet building the local unions used to use a great book for apprentices called Modern Carpentry that's still in print.

http://www.amazon.com/Modern-Carpentry-Construction-Easy-Understand/dp/1590702026/ref=pd_sim_b_2

We used to sell house packages to overseas buyers that had no building experience at all, and would just include a couple copies of it with every shipment and they managed to figure it out even though they barely understood English.

I realize that the notion is rather antiquated but the local library is still a viable and plentiful resource on the subject...and free.

Last but not least, plant yourself some hemp and get a grant to set up a manufactured wood products plant using this incredible fibre. The strength of OSB and plywood panels are dependent on the length of the fibres within. Wood fibres are typically 3/4" in length while hemp can be as long as you can grow it tall. Good luck with this one though. There are pulp mills all over the world that are dependent on the continuing deforestation of our planet and not the least bit interested in a truly renewable resource.

Hope this helps. :)
 
Good Afternoon MrAwder, :tiphat: I have been working on my project today and thought to show you how I do it without very many fancy tools.
CAUTION-I am not a professional. As my Father would say- "He's a self made man showing all the horrors of unskilled labor."
If you need two sheets of ply you are set to go. Use one sheet as a fence on top of your cut. A solid table to clamp to is really important. Here you can see a cut for the door. There is a stick of scrap below and I use an angle or a level as a fence- for my saw a 1 1/2" offset puts my blade on the line. I'll screw on the hinges before making the final cuts. The door has a 3/8" overlap on the 2 X 2 framing. I try to be very deliberate and slow, always measuring and squaring things up. Don't rush, building is challenging and fun. Good Luck Amigo! :wave:

Love the quote from your Dad. Classic. :)
 
Although Frijole's clamping saw guide will probably give you the best results without selling your first born to buy the Festool gear, there are also times when you may have need of a table saw and maybe not have the funds to procure one. An easy ghetto mod is to take your circ saw and screw it to a single or dbl. half sheet slab of 3/4" MDF through the shoe after making a plunge cut with it. Now flip the sheet of plywood upside down to reveal the blade and suspend the plywood between two saw horses. Duct tape or jam something into the saw's trigger to keep it on all of the time. Harbor Freight sells an extension cord with a step on power switch for about $6-8 that you can plug the saw into. Add a level and two clamps for a fence and you've got a reasonably accurate (depending upon the shaft bearings of your circular saw and blade chosen) and inexpensive table saw on the fly. The MDF will however sag without a strong back or stiffening strips attached.

If you want to get a little fancy with it, use a sheet of melamine since the core is pretty stable, although still prone to sagging like the MDF if not reinforced, and the laminated surface helps the object board being fed into the saw glide easier.

Not exactly OSHA approved, but it works great in a pinch. Just be careful feeding past the exposed blade. Not a good time to light up.
 
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