The growing large plants, outdoors, thread...

[nomaad]

vise grips were recommended... seems like they will do the trick just fine.

 

[Hash Man]

you can also buy a sap squeezer from PV. Last year i used a wrench, this year i bought the squeezer... seems to work well, althouh not a necessity.

 

[Dr. Purpur]

Lookin good Root!

 

[nomaad]

 

[crossouttheiis]

nomaad is killing it too.. next year i hope ill be at your guys level...

 

[theJointedOne]

looks better without the dome lol, nice forrest!

 

[Trinity Gold]

Those dreams are large and in charge.

 

[Private Joker]

What about eagle 20 for PM? I have done 2 applications a week apart and that seems to do the trick.

 

[Yankee Grower]

I will order a Brix meter later today.

That stuff I gave you will really help kick up your brix and almost positive you have nothing else like it in your program. It'll do a shitload of other stuff like promote significantly better fungal growth. Really good for better enzyme creation and function within the plant too. With a brix meter it's not just the total number that counts but also the diffusion or spread of the reading which indicates a wider variety of beneficial compounds in your sap.

There was a pumpkin farmer who was having problems with PM, as is with case with curcubits from what I understand, and saw brix go from like 9 to 11 almost overnight with one application. This guy also played around with micronized calcium carbonate and worked well. I was gonna mess around creating a formula with micronized CaCO3 and a few other ingredients for PM. Calcium counteracts the pectolytic enzymes produced by PM in cell tissue and basically stops it dead in it's tracks. I was told you need a micron size lower than 5 for it to work and found a source for .06 micron CaCO3 to play with.

A lot of people overlook sulfur and one old time grower told me it plays a big part in the 'dankness' of the finished flowers.

 

[Yankee Grower]

What about eagle 20 for PM? I have done 2 applications a week apart and that seems to do the trick.

I tried Eagle-20 as recommend by Krunch and got rid of it for a month then it came back. Was in a grow I was just messing with for fun to have some house plants...lol...and my program and enviro was definitely lacking. I gave some to a friend who was having a big PM problem and sure enough it came back in a month.

If the plants are weak and the environment is not favorable PM will come back.

 

[nomaad]

I am waiting for my refractometer to arrive before applying so I can do a before and after. Middle of next week. I'll let you know how it goes.

please explain what you mean by the "diffusion or spread of the reading."

 

[nomaad]

looks better without the dome lol, nice forrest!

I am with you 100%... there is now room out there for a picnic table and some nice lawn chairs... kiddie pool. etc.

still strangely cool here... rarely a day above 90. most in the mid 80's... is this good or bad for the plants? do they thrive in the mid 90's? My mentor says yes and is worried about the cool temps.

thoughts?

 

[Yankee Grower]

Nomaad - here's some info that might explain a bit better what I was talking about. It's information I came across early in my research into brix and general sap testing. Keep in mind it's fruit that's this is in reference too and a hand held refractometer not a digital brix meter. Trinity Gold is the man when it comes to all this in regards to cannabis and I'm just trying to add a bit of info...

A less-than-sharp demarcation line (blurry/fuzzy/diffused) on the screen is an indication of varied atom distribution i.e., an excellent mixture of minerals. For instance, many veteran refractometer users grow forages for animals and also have access to standard lab tests (so as to make possible direct comparisons of brix vis-à-vis other lab tests). They are adamant in insisting a sharp demarcation is an indication of increased simple sugar and therefore lesser high-quality protein (and other life-enhancing substances) at any given brixlevel.

Conversely, they suggest a blurry/fuzzy line predicts more and better quality, proteins (Yankee’s note: malformed proteins are a problem as insects like these). Interestingly,the fuzzy line concept appears to be supported by the ability of astronomers to use refracted light to determine the elemental makeup of distant stars.Starlight, properly refracted, is spread out so that the lines left by various elements can be identified. It is suggested that you think of your readings as, say, 12S (sharp) or perhaps 14D (diffuse). In almost all cases, blurry tastes better. (Yankee’s note: I propose that high brix plants with a ‘fuzzy’ reading will produce better quality buds).

You will quickly, and easily, learn to judge the mid-point of any blurring. Your correct reading lies there.
Blue intensity matters on those models that have a blue background field. When different items reveal the same brix but one has a less intense blue, it will taste sweeter and be higher in calcium, which neutralizes acids. However, the blue background can be overcast by the deep green chlorophyll color of some leafy plants. Do not be discouraged if your field of view appears to "greenout." Simply rotate your body away from the light source and watch for the demarcation as the light intensity diminishes.

From what I understand in fruits when you test them that low brix fruits taste crappy and high brix fruits taste great. This is not just about the sweetness, obviously sweeter fruits taste better, but is strongly influenced by the 'fuzziness' of the reading. I feel strongly that solid brix readings in canna indicate the finished buds will taste better and possibly be more potent as the plant has been fed a more diverse diet thus has a more complete set of building blocks to better express it's genetic potential in all ways.

 

[nomaad]

thanks, bro.

 

[theJointedOne]

yankee is the man

 

[Dr. Purpur]

Id like to see some screen shots. It would make it easier for me to understand. I do use a refractometer at work for industrial applications already. I have a brand new spare in my lock up I can use at home as needed. This is interesting information.

 

[onerha]

Couple questions for you guys growing big dirties. This thread is waaay too long to try to read through to find answers so it might be helpful to all if everyone going big answers these few basics... I know it will help with my planning for next year.

1. When do you start your seeds?
I started them in paper towels around March 10th. Next year will be at least 2-3 weeks earlier. I start in organicubes then go from there to 3 gallon bags and then right into final destination.

2. When do you move them outdoors?

3. What are you top few tips to growing big?

4. What is your avg yield and from what size pot?

5. What are your opinions on seeds vs clones?

6. Do you think that there's a limit to how long you can veg a plant out before you put it outside? Would it be ok to start plants under lights in Early January and get them up to 4x4' before putting them outside?

7. Do you clean out the inside growth of your plants so most of the energy goes to the tips?

Thanks all! Love the pics.

 

[Hash Man]

Couple questions for you guys growing big dirties. This thread is waaay too long to try to read through to find answers so it might be helpful to all if everyone going big answers these few basics... I know it will help with my planning for next year.

1. When do you start your seeds?
I started them in paper towels around March 10th. Next year will be at least 2-3 weeks earlier. I start in organicubes then go from there to 3 gallon bags and then right into final destination.

2. When do you move them outdoors?

3. What are you top few tips to growing big?

4. What is your avg yield and from what size pot?

5. What are your opinions on seeds vs clones?

6. Do you think that there's a limit to how long you can veg a plant out before you put it outside? Would it be ok to start plants under lights in Early January and get them up to 4x4' before putting them outside?

7. Do you clean out the inside growth of your plants so most of the energy goes to the tips?

Thanks all! Love the pics.

all of the answers to your questions have been covered in the last hundred or so pages. There is a wealth of information unsurpassed by any book i have ever seen here... Take time to read through it man, cause we have been discussing this stuff for over 6 months in this thread. you will find there are many correct answers to your questions that can lead you to success, and you will also find that many successful growers here disagree when it comes to topping and prunung and other subjects as well. Good luck.

 

[MedResearcher]

Hey all,

Was hoping to get a couple opinions on a leaf issue I am experiencing.


Some of the leaf blades are "taco-ing" upwards. Not the tip bending up but the sides of the blades are curling up making a taco shape.


I've noticed its mostly on the top of the plants and on the side which the wind hits daily. So I was assuming it has something to do with the hot dry wind and the plant trying to slow its transpiration rate. Its been windy as hell everyday for the last month almost. Although I am not 100% convinced this is the culprit, I am worried it might have something to do with over/under watering.


Any opinions are much appreciated.

Thanks,
Mr^^

 

[Dr. Purpur]

How does the soil feel Brother? Put Yur fingers 4 inches down and feel it. Are You floral feeding them? Do You spray them with Brix mix? Your in the right place. these guys know far more than me