atomicfield
Member
thanks gold123 never thought of that, fantastic idea im buying a pump later today
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Wanna Ask The Old Farts A Question?
- Thread starter HempKat
- Start date
PassionForMaryJ
Active member
Noticed the comment on the borg, and got to thinking I do not know enough about trying to eradicate them if I ever got them, so I did a little research, and found something interesting when reading a PDF for Floramite...
http://www.ohp.com/PIB/PDF/floramite_475_pib.pdf
They suggest rotating use of different pesticides, which should be common sense for most, but for some reason I never thought about it until seeing this question.
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Also noticed the talk of aerating the water,and or water/nutes before applying, this is actually beneficial, especially to those that make teas, and like their nute mix to "brew", when brewing teas it helps to have the mix aerated, because it reduces the chance for the tea to become anaerobic "without air"..
I'd aerate my teas for about 24 hours, but 12 is really long enough...
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Hey Hempy, hope all is well my friend!
http://www.ohp.com/PIB/PDF/floramite_475_pib.pdf
They suggest rotating use of different pesticides, which should be common sense for most, but for some reason I never thought about it until seeing this question.
--------------------------------
Also noticed the talk of aerating the water,and or water/nutes before applying, this is actually beneficial, especially to those that make teas, and like their nute mix to "brew", when brewing teas it helps to have the mix aerated, because it reduces the chance for the tea to become anaerobic "without air"..
I'd aerate my teas for about 24 hours, but 12 is really long enough...
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Hey Hempy, hope all is well my friend!
Here is a picture from the strain guide here on this site.
Grand Daddy Purple or GDP is an 8 week strain so if you're at 7 weeks your plant should be looking something like this. The purple is more of a subtle hue that is seen in the buds mostly. It's not some bright, rich purple color that can be spotted from a distance.
Now, isn't that purdy purple. Hit her with some cooler temps over a couple of days, to bring em out more.
I love this thread, and you, Hempkat and all other contributors, for bringing your knowlegde, wisdom and experience to us and those in need of it! So loveable and so very much appreciated.
I love this thread, and you, Hempkat and all other contributors, for bringing your knowlegde, wisdom and experience to us and those in need of it! So loveable and so very much appreciated.
PassionForMaryJ
Active member
Hempy is right, if you were going to see purple then by now you'd already see a little.
Maybe there is some there, and the HPS (assuming you are running an HPS) is making the purple tint harder to see...
You did get the strain via a clone I assume?
What have your temps been averaging during lights on, and lights off?
About the purpling....
I have found that less/no nutes over the last 2 weeks, as well as cooler than normal temps help to bring out that purple.
I wish I could remember all I studied before about the color change, but sadly all I can say is think of regular trees that lose their leaves when fall comes, then think about what the temps are like during that time.....
The cold IMO is one of the things that helps the most to bring out that coloring....
One cold winter I had a very deeply colored GDP, and during that same winter I had a Strawberry Cough plant purple up a little, and that strain is not known to do that...
It was a colder winter than normal, and I am pretty sure that cold is what caused the Strawberry Cough to show some purple.
Here is that SC plant..
Maybe there is some there, and the HPS (assuming you are running an HPS) is making the purple tint harder to see...
You did get the strain via a clone I assume?
What have your temps been averaging during lights on, and lights off?
About the purpling....
I have found that less/no nutes over the last 2 weeks, as well as cooler than normal temps help to bring out that purple.
I wish I could remember all I studied before about the color change, but sadly all I can say is think of regular trees that lose their leaves when fall comes, then think about what the temps are like during that time.....
The cold IMO is one of the things that helps the most to bring out that coloring....
One cold winter I had a very deeply colored GDP, and during that same winter I had a Strawberry Cough plant purple up a little, and that strain is not known to do that...
It was a colder winter than normal, and I am pretty sure that cold is what caused the Strawberry Cough to show some purple.
Here is that SC plant..
Good points PFMJ, there are a variety of things both environmental and genetic that play a role and the fall reference is appropriate. Certain trees change a certain way when exposed to colder temps common in the fall. Even though they're in the same area exposed to the same temps. So clearly the temps play a role because it's triggered by cooler weather and when the weather isn't as cool as normal the colors in the leaves aren't as nice as when it's seasonably cool. Yet it's not the temps alone because the leaves change different colors from one tree to the next. So there is also a genetic component that says when the temps drop it'll change to a specific color.
Now if you examine that further you'll likely find that the temperature changes influence the plant's nutrient uptake and this causes deficiencies. Now lets suppose that the genetic make up of a plant causes it to need more of a certain nutrient then other plants and when it has to take it from the leaves it causes the leaf to change color a certain way. Or maybe it's the reverse of that, the plant needs more of a certain nutrient when temps are cool and so it stores more of that in the bud leaves causing the color change? I'm not really sure because I never studied it that far. I do know from others that there are two main ways to bring out purpling in marijuana. One is the cooler temps and this is the most natural. Be careful though getting things too cool will impact other aspects of plant health and developement. I'd say mid to upper 50's degree F is as low as one should go. The key is to get a big temp swing from lights on to lights off. 20 degrees F. is good. So if you can get 80 degrees F during lights on and 60 degrees F lights off, you're doing good and should get whatever purpling temps will bring out. I've also heard people talk about cutting specific nutrients at certain stages of growth to get purpling. Personally I don't like that approach as it seems unnatural to me, so I never looked into it further.
People that buy weed tend to think purple is better for some reason. Sometimes it is but it's not because of the color. Sometimes the purple is there but the buzz is just so so. However since people that buy think purple is better, people that sell do thier best to give the customer what they want. That's how these practices of cutting nutrients to cause color change come about. In nature though it would be too random for a plant to experience the right conditions at the right time, nutrients in the soil outdoors tend to stay pretty consistent.
Now all that being said I have seen some strains (don't remember the names) that would turn purplish colors regardless of the temps and with normal feeding routines. Meaning the color was inherent to the strain and not environmental and this was brought about by selective breeding.
In the end though all strains end up the same color hopefully and that is grey ash in the bottom of your bowl or at the end of a joint.
Color isn't what's important because looking at weed does nothing for you, smell, taste, high, that's what's important. That's what people should focus on. You could give me the ugliest looking weed in the world but if it had a smell and taste I enjoyed and/or a high I liked then I'd be happy and content with it.
Now if you examine that further you'll likely find that the temperature changes influence the plant's nutrient uptake and this causes deficiencies. Now lets suppose that the genetic make up of a plant causes it to need more of a certain nutrient then other plants and when it has to take it from the leaves it causes the leaf to change color a certain way. Or maybe it's the reverse of that, the plant needs more of a certain nutrient when temps are cool and so it stores more of that in the bud leaves causing the color change? I'm not really sure because I never studied it that far. I do know from others that there are two main ways to bring out purpling in marijuana. One is the cooler temps and this is the most natural. Be careful though getting things too cool will impact other aspects of plant health and developement. I'd say mid to upper 50's degree F is as low as one should go. The key is to get a big temp swing from lights on to lights off. 20 degrees F. is good. So if you can get 80 degrees F during lights on and 60 degrees F lights off, you're doing good and should get whatever purpling temps will bring out. I've also heard people talk about cutting specific nutrients at certain stages of growth to get purpling. Personally I don't like that approach as it seems unnatural to me, so I never looked into it further.
People that buy weed tend to think purple is better for some reason. Sometimes it is but it's not because of the color. Sometimes the purple is there but the buzz is just so so. However since people that buy think purple is better, people that sell do thier best to give the customer what they want. That's how these practices of cutting nutrients to cause color change come about. In nature though it would be too random for a plant to experience the right conditions at the right time, nutrients in the soil outdoors tend to stay pretty consistent.
Now all that being said I have seen some strains (don't remember the names) that would turn purplish colors regardless of the temps and with normal feeding routines. Meaning the color was inherent to the strain and not environmental and this was brought about by selective breeding.
In the end though all strains end up the same color hopefully and that is grey ash in the bottom of your bowl or at the end of a joint.
Color isn't what's important because looking at weed does nothing for you, smell, taste, high, that's what's important. That's what people should focus on. You could give me the ugliest looking weed in the world but if it had a smell and taste I enjoyed and/or a high I liked then I'd be happy and content with it.
Well thank you for the kind words, I enjoy doing this because not only does it allow me to help others enjoy something I enjoy but it helps me to keep all this stuff fresh in my mind. Often times as one gets older and thier experiences pile up they can find in retrospect that they have learned and forgotten much more then what they know, even when they know alot. Talking about things gives you new points of memory so you are less likely to forget. At least that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
I've had the purple come out at different times on the same strain of clones during their growth cycle. I have noticed that as leaves change color in the fall on trees as the green chlorophyll diminishes so does the green in our plants. Sometimes all the purple is there but masked by the green. At the end all of a sudden the purple that is there shows through. I have had them turn purple weeks before finish also. I have had plants in the same grow with dark purple leaves and stems and some without. I have used cooler temps and even Purple Maxx too. It all boils down to nature.
Well thank you for the kind words, I enjoy doing this because not only does it allow me to help others enjoy something I enjoy but it helps me to keep all this stuff fresh in my mind. Often times as one gets older and thier experiences pile up they can find in retrospect that they have learned and forgotten much more then what they know, even when they know alot. Talking about things gives you new points of memory so you are less likely to forget. At least that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
I forgot what I was going to say.... oh ya, how true that is.
Rudedewd
Member
High peoples! I haven't been here for awhile so I thought I'd say high to old friends. About the purple thang I was wondering if cold temps can bring out purple in some strains maybe high temps might keep purple strains green? I have no purple genetics in my garden, some years ago I was offered some (I don't remember for sure but I think it was GDP). I declined though because although it was very pretty and unlike alot of purple strains it had a killer head it was also very slow growing in veg and it just took too much time for me. I do kind of regret not grabbing it but I would have lost it when I got popped anyhoo.
Keep it green (or purple, lol)
Keep it green (or purple, lol)
PassionForMaryJ
Active member
Hey Rude, good to see ya!
If lower temps help induce the color change, then I'd say yes higher temps are going to slow, if not stop any color change before harvested.
That GDP if it was the cut I had was a great strain man, the color was very nice, even if only in a novelty kind of way they were cool looking...
The plant grew just as good as my others, and budded fairly well, but considerably lighter than my heavier budding strains.
The buzz was mostly heady, but it did have a little body to it if it went long enough...
the taste of the smoke was wonderful, the best tasting bud I have ever tasted to date, I could smoke it all day long!
The only thing that came close to tasting this good is the Blueberry i had, the DJ Short cut...
If lower temps help induce the color change, then I'd say yes higher temps are going to slow, if not stop any color change before harvested.
That GDP if it was the cut I had was a great strain man, the color was very nice, even if only in a novelty kind of way they were cool looking...
The plant grew just as good as my others, and budded fairly well, but considerably lighter than my heavier budding strains.
The buzz was mostly heady, but it did have a little body to it if it went long enough...
the taste of the smoke was wonderful, the best tasting bud I have ever tasted to date, I could smoke it all day long!
The only thing that came close to tasting this good is the Blueberry i had, the DJ Short cut...
atomicfield
Member
new clones and salts
new clones and salts
hi hempkat, was hoping you could shed some light on two questions i have, or anyone else, was wondering how deep to plant new rooted clones, if it makes a difference, do i want taproot to touch bottom of smart pot? next is i have lemon haze, jack the ripper and white rhino in smart pots, haze and ripper are gettin huge all is well, but white rhino seems to be sensitive to nutes so i see salts on outside of pot is this an indication that the plant is not using the nutes, i cut back on them, I'm using root organics natural and organics soil, the haze and ripper don't show the salts. i use ionic bloom. thanks for any advice
new clones and salts
hi hempkat, was hoping you could shed some light on two questions i have, or anyone else, was wondering how deep to plant new rooted clones, if it makes a difference, do i want taproot to touch bottom of smart pot? next is i have lemon haze, jack the ripper and white rhino in smart pots, haze and ripper are gettin huge all is well, but white rhino seems to be sensitive to nutes so i see salts on outside of pot is this an indication that the plant is not using the nutes, i cut back on them, I'm using root organics natural and organics soil, the haze and ripper don't show the salts. i use ionic bloom. thanks for any advice
Well if these smart pots are so smart what do they say?
Seriously though, I'm not familiar with smart pots. From what you say they sound like a hydro thing which is probably why I'm not familiar with them. In soil, placement of the plant in a pot isn't particularly critical. I've never put an old rootball all the way on the bottom of a new pot but I see no reason why you couldn't. In soil it seems like the roots grow downwards and then when they hit the bottom they just come right back up the sides.As for your second question I'm not sure if White Rhino is nute sensitive or not. Assuming nothing is interfering with the plant's uptake, like a ph imbalance then yeah it sounds like the salt build up is an indication of there being more nutes then the plant can handle. The only thing though, all the build up shows is that the nutrients aren't being used, it doesn't show why they aren't being used. That's why I mentioned ph. Improper ph will interfer with nutrient uptake.
kivennäisvesi
New member
Hello,
this is a picture of a week old Lowryder #2. It's growing in a 0,5 litre box, and the soil is about 75% "seedling-soil" (don't know the real english word) and 25% of gravel (kind of like small rocks).
What are those light green/yellow spots at the new leaves? Is my plant doing ok? Is that a sign of over watering or not watering too much?
Thank you for your help
this is a picture of a week old Lowryder #2. It's growing in a 0,5 litre box, and the soil is about 75% "seedling-soil" (don't know the real english word) and 25% of gravel (kind of like small rocks).
What are those light green/yellow spots at the new leaves? Is my plant doing ok? Is that a sign of over watering or not watering too much?
Thank you for your help
atomicfield
Member
thank you again as alwaysWell if these smart pots are so smart what do they say?
As for your second question I'm not sure if White Rhino is nute sensitive or not. Assuming nothing is interfering with the plant's uptake, like a ph imbalance then yeah it sounds like the salt build up is an indication of there being more nutes then the plant can handle. The only thing though, all the build up shows is that the nutrients aren't being used, it doesn't show why they aren't being used. That's why I mentioned ph. Improper ph will interfer with nutrient uptake.
Hello,
this is a picture of a week old Lowryder #2. It's growing in a 0,5 litre box, and the soil is about 75% "seedling-soil" (don't know the real english word) and 25% of gravel (kind of like small rocks).
What are those light green/yellow spots at the new leaves? Is my plant doing ok? Is that a sign of over watering or not watering too much?
Thank you for your help
Check your pH runoff. Seed starter mixes (and many bagged potting mixes) are often hotter than mj likes. 6.5 to 6.8 runoff is good, you've probably got closer to 5.8. You might have to lime your soil to dial in pH a little better. Even if you water with high pH, it'll dive as soon as it hits the hot seed starter mix.
Hello,
this is a picture of a week old Lowryder #2. It's growing in a 0,5 litre box, and the soil is about 75% "seedling-soil" (don't know the real english word) and 25% of gravel (kind of like small rocks).
What are those light green/yellow spots at the new leaves? Is my plant doing ok? Is that a sign of over watering or not watering too much?
Thank you for your help
I can't tell, your picture didn't come thru. How big is the pot they're in and how often are you watering?
kivennäisvesi
New member
The pot is about 0,5 litres and I have watered it once throughly when I planted the seeds (about a week ago), since then I have only sprayed some water mist on the plant. The soil seems moist when trying about 1cm deep, but I'm a first time grower so I don't really know what the correct moisture is.
The pH of the soil is 6.0 according to the bag it's in. So maybe I'll try that, thank you!
Yeah 6.0 is a bit too acidic for soil and will keep your plant from accessing the nutrients in the soil and/or the water/nutrient mix you give the plant. This could very well account for the discoloration in the leaves although since I can't see the picture I can't be sure.
From what you describe it doesn't sound like you're watering too much then again I suppose it depends on how much water it's getting when you mist the plant. You might want to cut back on the misting some until the roots become more developed (needs watering once every 3 days).
