Tutorial Organics for Beginners

[vonforne]

Vonforne

RE K-Mag

So here was how I got the version of K-Mag that I bought (the 'Standard') to dissolve almost completely was to buy a used coffee grinder (a Braun actually to honor your countrymen over there!) at a yard sale for $1.00

1 tbsp. into the coffee grinder and whirl for about 30 seconds - instant powder. Add to water and let it sit for about 24 hours. Use as intended.

A friend had some major problems in his garden and he brought me a leaf to look at. I know nothing about the different problems associated with macro/micro nutrients levels but I did find a chart that had photos of cannabis leaves and it appeared to be some kind of potassium issue.

I had him make up the K-Mag tea and apply. Within 36 hours there was a profound difference in the color and health of the leaves. I wouldn't have believed it had I not seen it with my own eyes.

How often were you applying K-Mag when you were using it? I added 1/4 cup to 5 gallons of potting soil. That's along with 5 minerals (Azomite, soft rock phosphate, Canadian glacial rock dust, New Jersey Greensand and limestone). Liming agents are applied at the same amount, i.e. 1/4 cup to 5 gallons and it's equal parts dolomite, gypsum and oyster shell powder.

So with that in mind and since I did add a small amount to the soil itself, I was thinking about using the K-Mag tea about every 2 weeks or so. I have kelp meal in the soil mix so potassium per se isn't too much of an issue I wouldn't think.

Thanks for your help as usual.

CC

there was a profound difference in the color and health of the leaves.

I believe this is due to the Sulfur content. My plants had a different kind of ´Deep green`than what excessive N normally has. There are traces of S in the GRD and other mineral additives but not in the % of the K-Mag. I think from the GRD that it isnormally about 5 to 9 % of volume. K-Mag is 22%. Quit a difference! Especially if you are using it as a soil drench in one application.

I had added mine to my rubber maid water containers @ about 1 TSP (maybe a TBS) per gallon if I remember correctly but I did not grind mine. And only during flowering did I apply K-Mag. I was using it as my final stage booster. 22% K20! And for that low cost you cannot beat that with a stick!)So mine was breaking down on a constant basis. It was added to tea mixtures and to just plain water so over time with a little added EACH time I watered. If you are grinding it then your method is much more effective @ the application time. Good for over coming a deficiency or that massive boost that Grapeman is using. Actually, I do not know what I was trying to do. LOL I came to Germany where it is not yet on the Market.........but soon it will be along with some other products I have in mind. Yes, I plan on sparking an interest here in Germany.

Wanna help? I could use some one like you that is extremely smart.

I am really happy for you all getting to use this product. I was really happy with it. I tried to get people to use it before but you know us humans......that bottle is better and quicker.

Good luck guys and keep us posted here with your progress.

V

 

[treefrog]

Vonforne

RE K-Mag


1 tbsp. into the coffee grinder and whirl for about 30 seconds - instant powder. Add to water and let it sit for about 24 hours. Use as intended.

CC

That's exactly what I've been doing..

I bought some k-mag about a month ago and got the samples too. Thanks for the tip grapeman! The coffee grinder works well, just don't let the missus see! I told her I'd buy her a new one if I broke it, but it was fine. I put the amount I will need (powdered) in a pint jar of rain, let it sit until I need to water, then replace it for next time. 1 tsp per gallon has kept any mag deficiency at bay, though I will probably play with the amount some, especially the last few weeks of flowering.

Thank you guys, for being who you are..

 

[grapeman]

I believe this is due to the Sulfur content. My plants had a different kind of ´Deep green`than what excessive N normally has. There are traces of S in the GRD and other mineral additives but not in the % of the K-Mag. I think from the GRD that it isnormally about 5 to 9 % of volume. K-Mag is 22%. Quit a difference! Especially if you are using it as a soil drench in one application.

I had added mine to my rubber maid water containers @ about 1 TSP (maybe a TBS) per gallon if I remember correctly but I did not grind mine. And only during flowering did I apply K-Mag. I was using it as my final stage booster. 22% K20! And for that low cost you cannot beat that with a stick!)So mine was breaking down on a constant basis. It was added to tea mixtures and to just plain water so over time with a little added EACH time I watered. If you are grinding it then your method is much more effective @ the application time. Good for over coming a deficiency or that massive boost that Grapeman is using. Actually, I do not know what I was trying to do. LOL I came to Germany where it is not yet on the Market.........but soon it will be along with some other products I have in mind. Yes, I plan on sparking an interest here in Germany.

Wanna help? I could use some one like you that is extremely smart.

I am really happy for you all getting to use this product. I was really happy with it. I tried to get people to use it before but you know us humans......that bottle is better and quicker.

Good luck guys and keep us posted here with your progress.

V

V is right. I don't know what he knows, nor do I have his experience growing organic.

But I do know 2 things as fact.
1. Nothing is more organic then sulfer.
2. Sulfur is one of the most overlooked and underused Macro nutrients in farming worldwide.

My experience does not extend to this crop except for my use of sulfate of potash in my waterings the last 5 weeks.

I was happy a few months ago when V suggested I use K-mag for a bit more K in flowering due to my experience with my life long use of sulfur in general. I like it in the soil and it's hard to apply too much. I think the chunky k-mag is great for the soil mix, but I use 100% soluble sulfate of potash for the watering mix. Heck, a small amount of this product used via foliar would also give you some natural fungicide protection via the sulfur.

 

[Clackamas Coot]

Here's a bad photo of the last plant I took down to dry and cure. This has been curing for about 3 weeks - about half-way through.

The strain is bagseed weed - no famous name or anything like that. Just some medicine. All hardcore organic soil amendments and some of the best humus sources that I have available.

CC

 

[LifeIsGrowing]

Wow, there is a wealth of Organic info here. I see alot of the same ideas being thrown around with just different ways of doing things. I do all organic myself as well, and no matter what, there is a way to fix any plant problem by fixing the soil or nutrients. Great thread though.

-LifeIsGrowing

 

[Spok]

is there a maximum amount of time that you can 'cook' your mix? or can i let it cook until im ready to use it?

 

[vonforne]

is there a maximum amount of time that you can 'cook' your mix? or can i let it cook until im ready to use it?

cook until ready to use. Just remember to turn it now and again to keep fresh O2.

 

[grapeman]

cook until ready to use. Just remember to turn it now and again to keep fresh O2.

I have a soil question. I have 7 bins of LC#2 with dry nutes (bone, kelp, blood, azomite, alfalfa, k-mag etc.), sweeting in the garage for my next round to start in about 2.5 weeks. Each bin is about 1.25 cf.

One bin I made up this exactly this same way except I added about 1 cup of high P bat guano 0-10-0.

As I am out turning the soil 2 to 3 times a week it is clearly noticeable that the one bin with the 0-10-0 guano is at least 15 degrees F hotter then the other 6 bins with no guano. I know manure is hot but this is substantial.

Would you try to use this soil straight and see what happens or would you (and I am leaning this way) just divide this bin into 6 and mix it with the other 6 bins with no guano.

Can high P guano burn?? I wouldn't think so but this soil engineering in a small container is new to me. If you asked me if I could put 7 tons/acre of chicken manure I would know the answer.

Will one cup of P guano added to all the other dry mixes be a bit much for the plant?

Usually I learn by making mistakes, but I'd prefer to draw on the knowledge base here.

Thanks

 

[vonforne]

Can high P guano burn??

yes I believe so.

Would you try to use this soil straight and see what happens

not for a few more weeks. If you are worried about it you can divide it in half. 50 to 50

Will one cup of P guano added to all the other dry mixes be a bit much for the plant?

as long as it does not exceed the 2 TBS per gallon. When you have too much of one or the other in container gardening tends to cause problems with other elements in the soil.

I learned all mine the hard way also.

V

 

[SecretGardener]

Usually I learn by making mistakes...

lol join the club !

 

[treefrog]

yes I believe so.



not for a few more weeks. If you are worried about it you can divide it in half. 50 to 50

Will one cup of P guano added to all the other dry mixes be a bit much for the plant?

as long as it does not exceed the 2 TBS per gallon. When you have too much of one or the other in container gardening tends to cause problems with other elements in the soil.

I learned all mine the hard way also.

V

I'm sweating here a little, Vonforne.
I've used a soil-less mix with blood and bone (among other things) for many years and like it, but lately I've wanted to try something new, so I added Plant Tone @ 1/4 cup per gallon and a mix of high phos bat and ancient seabird guano (50-50) also @ 1/4 cup per gallon. It will have been brewing for a little over two months when I planned on using it. Do you think it will be too hot?

I was a bit unsure about the amounts, but LC recommends 1/3 cup per gallon of high N and high P guano's, so I thought I would be a little light if anything..

I can always mix another batch of the same amount, but omit those two and be at 2 tbsps per gallon, but if I DON'T have to do that it would be fantastic, lol.

CC ~ I got some clones going, dipped in the gel you recommended. They're on heat too, about 82* How long do you usually have to wait? I felt like a freakin' mad scientist when I mixed it up
Life is good, especially when it's so balanced between the intellectual and visceral. I'm a dirty boy..na na.

 

[theweedman]

hey this seems like the right place to be just want some oppinons on my organic set up so for starters im using my own soil which is screened compost and screened topsoil the ph is about 6.3 which was ammeded with espoma plant tone , perlite , and peat moss for veg i plan on useing alaska all natural plant food 9-4-4 and then for bloom im using espoma flowertone whiich is gonna be mixed into already ammended soil except which they will be transplanted to before bloom then to finish im gonna use bmo flower power most of them are already over a month into veg and looking fantastic so any oppinons ?

 

[Clackamas Coot]

CC ~ I got some clones going, dipped in the gel you recommended. They're on heat too, about 82* How long do you usually have to wait? I felt like a freakin' mad scientist when I mixed it up
Life is good, especially when it's so balanced between the intellectual and visceral. I'm a dirty boy..na na.

treefrog

Generally I have viable roots showing in 12-14 days. I think that's probably pretty normal regardless of method other than the EZ-Cloner process.

Then again consider that most new growers on this venue have far more experience with seed bank genetics that I do. I only bought seeds one time back in 1989 from Neville's operation.

Meaning that what I consider 'normal' may be different if I were growing out professional genetics.

HTH

CC

 

[hopefullyhappy]

Hey, so I’m a little confused about the nutes in organic grows. Using LC’s Soiless Mix #1 I have: Miracle Grow’s Organic Choice Blood meal 12-0-0, and Bone Meal 6-9-0. Espoma’s Organic Tradition Kelp Meal 1-0-2. My Wriggle Worm worm castings are 1-0-0.

Does this mean my nutes are 20-9-2 ?

 

[Clackamas Coot]

Hey, so I’m a little confused about the nutes in organic grows. Using LC’s Soiless Mix #1 I have: Miracle Grow’s Organic Choice Blood meal 12-0-0, and Bone Meal 6-9-0. Espoma’s Organic Tradition Kelp Meal 1-0-2. My Wriggle Worm worm castings are 1-0-0.

Does this mean my nutes are 20-9-2 ?

I've always wondered about that as well.

CC

 

[Clackamas Coot]

How a Fish Becomes Fertilizer

How a Fish Becomes Fertilizer

Vonforne

Here's an interview with Bill Ginn who is the Marketing Coordinator for Alaska Fertilizer (fish emulsion).

His comments gave me another reason to use fish hydrolysate products vs. Alaska Fertilizer's line.

Pretty interesting process.

CC

 

[grapeman]

Hey, so I’m a little confused about the nutes in organic grows. Using LC’s Soiless Mix #1 I have: Miracle Grow’s Organic Choice Blood meal 12-0-0, and Bone Meal 6-9-0. Espoma’s Organic Tradition Kelp Meal 1-0-2. My Wriggle Worm worm castings are 1-0-0.

Does this mean my nutes are 20-9-2 ?

No, not really. If I remember correctly on the dry nute mix, you added different amounts per gallon/CF of soil of each product.

And the numbers on the labels represent the percentage of that nutrient (N-P or K) as per the weight of each product.

For instance, if I buy 100 gallons of liquid Phos acid and it is phos acid 33%, that means I need to know the weight of a gallon of the product. Let's say the weight of a gallon of Phos acid 33% is 9.2 lbs./gallon. Then I would be adding 3.03 lbs. of actual P for every gallon of Phos Acid 33% (9.2 x .33 = 3.03 lbs.) Same is true for dry nutes. A percentage of weight.

If I buy a 50# bag of Sulfate of potash. The ratios are K = 51% and Sulfur = 18% on the label. then for every pound of product used I am applying 0.51 lbs. of K and 0.18 lbs. of S.

I suppose you can arrive at a total. but not the way you were adding the numbers. You need to weigh each product separately and the multiply them by their respective percentages, then add the totals.

But the answer is meaningless, unless let's say you want to limit the total lbs. of N applied during a growing season for some reason, or if you tracked this info over many seasons and cross referenced that info to your results after throwing out all other variables. Hard to do unless you have been doing so for many years.

I've done this for grapes for budgeting purposes, but like any other crop, budgets are for planning and when the growing starts, things change and applications change with the weather and the varieties, always leading to something different in the end then what you budgeted for. Numbers like this are only a baseline, to be adjusted as called for by an experienced eye.

 

[darwinsbulldog]

great info here thanks mate!

 

[Bishop420]

Going to go outside again next year...at least try again. lol I had some serious issues this year but it was my first time. If anyone has useful hints about starting inside then putting outside they would be appreciated.
Im running all CFL's.....

 

[hopefullyhappy]

No, not really. If I remember correctly on the dry nute mix, you added different amounts per gallon/CF of soil of each product.

And the numbers on the labels represent the percentage of that nutrient (N-P or K) as per the weight of each product.

For instance, if I buy 100 gallons of liquid Phos acid and it is phos acid 33%, that means I need to know the weight of a gallon of the product. Let's say the weight of a gallon of Phos acid 33% is 9.2 lbs./gallon. Then I would be adding 3.03 lbs. of actual P for every gallon of Phos Acid 33% (9.2 x .33 = 3.03 lbs.) Same is true for dry nutes. A percentage of weight.

If I buy a 50# bag of Sulfate of potash. The ratios are K = 51% and Sulfur = 18% on the label. then for every pound of product used I am applying 0.51 lbs. of K and 0.18 lbs. of S.

I suppose you can arrive at a total. but not the way you were adding the numbers. You need to weigh each product separately and the multiply them by their respective percentages, then add the totals.

But the answer is meaningless, unless let's say you want to limit the total lbs. of N applied during a growing season for some reason, or if you tracked this info over many seasons and cross referenced that info to your results after throwing out all other variables. Hard to do unless you have been doing so for many years.

I've done this for grapes for budgeting purposes, but like any other crop, budgets are for planning and when the growing starts, things change and applications change with the weather and the varieties, always leading to something different in the end then what you budgeted for. Numbers like this are only a baseline, to be adjusted as called for by an experienced eye.

Yes, i did add different amounts per gallon. But i see your point. Everything is relative to percentages of weight.
Thanks for clearing that up.