Tutorial Organics for Beginners
- Thread starter BurnOne
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Bad_Replicant
Member
Thanks again vonforne. One last ?: because of the size of my space and light, it would really help if I keep everybody in the same size pots rights now. I have my gals in 8" (approx 1 gallon) pots at the moment filled with plain LC mix #2.
What do you think of just feeding the sativas some tea and letting them wait a week for the nuted soil? Another option would be to repot them in the 1 gallon pots with nuted soil, then transplant again in a week, but that sounds like a lot of stress.
Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Sorry Metatron. I missed this one.
Worm castings are already broken down by the worms. Guano is fast acting. It depends on how much worm castings and guano you put on the soil. Try guano teas instead. You can find recipes on the first page of this thread.
Burn1
V
vonforne
Thanks again vonforne. One last ?: because of the size of my space and light, it would really help if I keep everybody in the same size pots rights now. I have my gals in 8" (approx 1 gallon) pots at the moment filled with plain LC mix #2.
What do you think of just feeding the sativas some tea and letting them wait a week for the nuted soil? Another option would be to repot them in the 1 gallon pots with nuted soil, then transplant again in a week, but that sounds like a lot of stress.
Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
No do not transplant twice in one week. It would be a waste of time. Just give them a good EWC tea and they will be fine. Sativas are some times sensitive to nutrients. It would be a lot of stress for them.
V
Bad_Replicant
Member
Hi guys.
Thanks again for the earlier advice, but my gals (19 days old from seed) still don't look super happy 24 hours after some EWC tea. They are somewhat pale and droopy at the tips.
My LC # 2 + Recipe # 1 mix will have cooked for 2 weeks on Wednesday. My plan is this: I fill feed them capful Alaska Fish 5-1-1, 1 tsp powdered Maxicrop to 1 gallon of water tomorrow. Then replant into the fully cooked soil on Wednesday.
Does this sound reasonable? I've also considered using 1/2 strength of the above so that they won't be overloaded after transplanting into nuted soil.
Thanks again for your help.
Thanks again for the earlier advice, but my gals (19 days old from seed) still don't look super happy 24 hours after some EWC tea. They are somewhat pale and droopy at the tips.
My LC # 2 + Recipe # 1 mix will have cooked for 2 weeks on Wednesday. My plan is this: I fill feed them capful Alaska Fish 5-1-1, 1 tsp powdered Maxicrop to 1 gallon of water tomorrow. Then replant into the fully cooked soil on Wednesday.
Does this sound reasonable? I've also considered using 1/2 strength of the above so that they won't be overloaded after transplanting into nuted soil.
Thanks again for your help.
V
vonforne
Relax. Those plants will not recover that quickly. Drooping of the leaves sounds like a bit too much water. Give them a few days and then transplant as normal.
Do not feed them....feed the soil. If the organic material is in the soil feed the soil microbes, they will feed the plant.
Post up a couple of pictures of those plants please.
V
Bad_Replicant
Member
OK. I have officially relaxed. I put some pix in an album. Though 100% legal, I'm nonetheless a bit paranoid, so I've made the album private and made you a contact, vonforne. As a mod, it's my understanding that Burnone can also see it.
On a positive note, my nuted mix smells rather robust, which I will take as a positive.
On a positive note, my nuted mix smells rather robust, which I will take as a positive.
Batboy
Member
Water question
Water question
I've got a batch of LC Mix#2 with nute recipe #1 cooking for what I hope is a grow that I can simply water from start to finish -- maybe with some Liquid Karma, Molassas, etc. if it's called for.
I recently learned that my tap water contains small amounts of Chloramine, which, as I understand it, is a big no-no for growing -- it's not like Chlorine that will evaporate.
If I use store-bought RO and/or steam distilled water, should I be adding anything to it in order to make up what is lost by not using tap? The last time I tried a grow I had some funky seedlings in straight Fox Farms Ocean Forest watered only with steam distilled water. It was suggested to me that the plants were suffering from lack of micro-nutrients due to using only distilled water.
Thoughts?
.
Water question
I've got a batch of LC Mix#2 with nute recipe #1 cooking for what I hope is a grow that I can simply water from start to finish -- maybe with some Liquid Karma, Molassas, etc. if it's called for.
I recently learned that my tap water contains small amounts of Chloramine, which, as I understand it, is a big no-no for growing -- it's not like Chlorine that will evaporate.
If I use store-bought RO and/or steam distilled water, should I be adding anything to it in order to make up what is lost by not using tap? The last time I tried a grow I had some funky seedlings in straight Fox Farms Ocean Forest watered only with steam distilled water. It was suggested to me that the plants were suffering from lack of micro-nutrients due to using only distilled water.
Thoughts?
.
V
vonforne
I am short on tome now but I will get to those pics later and post up for you on what I see. No problem with being paranoid.........better safe than sorry.
V
Steak n Veg
New member
hi all. been following this thread, lots of good info!! I am currently are using seed with LC mix 1 and food recipe 1.
Our seedling looks very stunted and the tiny new growth looks wrong. It is 3 weeks old and the cotyledons have turned yellow the tips of the other leaves has also gone yellow. Its been a gradual thing.
i am using mushroom compost as worm castings are not available and a mix of coco coir and sphagnum and of course powdered lime.
We have also had heatwaves (35deg cel-40deg cel days and one 32deg cel night) recently and while there is intake to cool and outflow to suck the hot air out.. there's no room for a airconditioner! So i am wondering could it be heat/temp affected? As it only cools 3-5 degrees difference?
i water every 3rd day with tap water that has sit, im aware of the chlorine and fluoride in our city supply.
i went and did some Ph testing, even tho organics is meant to buffer ph and found that the mix (made according to LC#1) is 8-8.5 all a bit too high for any other grow method. if for some reason the organics is not working its magic could it be a nute lockout?
i do have photos, yet everything is working against me at the moment (camera/pc issues) i do appreciate any help even tho its another cry for help over very famous yellow-leaf-syndrome
Our seedling looks very stunted and the tiny new growth looks wrong. It is 3 weeks old and the cotyledons have turned yellow the tips of the other leaves has also gone yellow. Its been a gradual thing.
i am using mushroom compost as worm castings are not available and a mix of coco coir and sphagnum and of course powdered lime.
We have also had heatwaves (35deg cel-40deg cel days and one 32deg cel night) recently and while there is intake to cool and outflow to suck the hot air out.. there's no room for a airconditioner! So i am wondering could it be heat/temp affected? As it only cools 3-5 degrees difference?
i water every 3rd day with tap water that has sit, im aware of the chlorine and fluoride in our city supply.
i went and did some Ph testing, even tho organics is meant to buffer ph and found that the mix (made according to LC#1) is 8-8.5 all a bit too high for any other grow method. if for some reason the organics is not working its magic could it be a nute lockout?
i do have photos, yet everything is working against me at the moment (camera/pc issues) i do appreciate any help even tho its another cry for help over very famous yellow-leaf-syndrome
hi all. been following this thread, lots of good info!! I am currently are using seed with LC mix 1 and food recipe 1.
Our seedling looks very stunted and the tiny new growth looks wrong. It is 3 weeks old and the cotyledons have turned yellow the tips of the other leaves has also gone yellow. Its been a gradual thing.
i am using mushroom compost as worm castings are not available and a mix of coco coir and sphagnum and of course powdered lime.
We have also had heatwaves (35deg cel-40deg cel days and one 32deg cel night) recently and while there is intake to cool and outflow to suck the hot air out.. there's no room for a airconditioner! So i am wondering could it be heat/temp affected? As it only cools 3-5 degrees difference?
i water every 3rd day with tap water that has sit, im aware of the chlorine and fluoride in our city supply.
i went and did some Ph testing, even tho organics is meant to buffer ph and found that the mix (made according to LC#1) is 8-8.5 all a bit too high for any other grow method. if for some reason the organics is not working its magic could it be a nute lockout?
i do have photos, yet everything is working against me at the moment (camera/pc issues) i do appreciate any help even tho its another cry for help over very famous yellow-leaf-syndrome
Did you plant the seed in the LC's Mix with blood/bone/kelp (Recipe #1) in it? If so, you burned the seedling up.
More info please.
Burn1
Steak n Veg
New member
Bagseed planted in LC's Basic with no Nutes under compact fluro roughly 8 inches away.
Growth was fine up to middle of 3rd week when yellowing started on tips of new leaves (third set after cotyledons as well as the cotyledons) waited until the end of the third week and yellowing continued slowly.
Transplanted (at the end of the third week) over to LC's Mix with Nutes that made at the same time as the planting.
Nutes included Blood and Bone (combined, couldn't find them separate so i only added one cup for 1 cubic foot) and Amgrow Organix Harvest (fish, seaweed and Fulvic acid fertilizer).
Three days after transplant the yellowing has continued and although growth seems to have restarted there seems to be a little bit of stem weakness creeping in.
First to admit i my lack of experience but i def want to learn (on bag seed) before getting anything special.
as a side note (just in case it's part of the solution) i have a 400w SON-T Agro sitting ready.
Any pointers appreciated.
Follow the recipe EXACTLY.
Good thing you tried first on bagseed.
Maybe you could locate all the ingredients if you used another recipe.
Burn1
Steak n Veg
New member
For the Base I thought i did though perhaps i miss-read the Recipe
What i mixed up was:
5 parts Coir peat (not sphagnum - Coir peat combo - wife (OP) got that one wrong)
3 part perlite
2 parts Mushroom compost
1 cup powdered dolomite lime (for the 1 Gallon of mix).
Or was my issue with the nutes?
please forgive my newbness
The nutes i used were the closest i could find, Aussie stores don't seem to have the goods..
Last edited:
Newbness is most welcomed here. You are our honored guest.
The mix is fine. It's your nute recipe. You can't just guess. You should have probably used three cups of the blood/bone mix instead of one. Who knows. Find blood/bone/kelp individually.
Burn1
The mix is fine. It's your nute recipe. You can't just guess. You should have probably used three cups of the blood/bone mix instead of one. Who knows. Find blood/bone/kelp individually.
Burn1
mikemoister
New member
Forever tea
Forever tea
How does some one go about brewing EWC tea for longer than the recommended 72 hours, so that there is a continuous batch. Is this possible? Will the micros live that long or do they spoil after some time?
Forever tea
How does some one go about brewing EWC tea for longer than the recommended 72 hours, so that there is a continuous batch. Is this possible? Will the micros live that long or do they spoil after some time?
You have to bubble it. Add some molasses and replenish the worm castings every 48 hours.
Burn1
optic sizzle
Member
Join MaryJane's bookclub. We are going to read teaming with microbes, and you will know exactly why you can't keep a perpetual tea.
