leafs turning yellowish on top of plants

[ScrubNinja]

Nothing wrong with hydroponic nutes & coco.

 

[Shalom Rocket]

Nothing wrong with hydroponic nutes & coco.

oh, well thats news to me, in any case i think the problem is no one knows what levels of NPK etc are needed, what nutes would you suggest?

 

[ScrubNinja]

I've not grown under hps but to me it sounds like you probably nailed the problem with the light intensity thing in post #10. I like dutch master gold with coco, and a p:k boost later in flower. Maybe some kelp occasionaly. I try to keep it simple. Not sure if many would agree with me but most half decent nutes are going to give you fine results - it's not what you use, it's how you use it.

I hope you get it worked out anyway.

 

[microgram]

Have you even tried to flush a couple times without nutes? How many areas did you test the PH of on the coco? hopefully a few places including where the fluid gets absorbed into the substrate. I say empty the res, fill it with neutral water, flush, new water, flush, new water, flush. If you see any other signs of lack of nutrition, then add your nute solution.

Obviously im not as sure, just as everyone else, but it'd be the first thing I'd do; not add more nutes to the mix. I think over complication might be the reasons behind this one. (I really just wanted to bump this thread and ask for new pics)

... And Hydro just means that it's grown in water. Could be grown in virtually any other soilless medium.

 

[Shalom Rocket]

Have you even tried to flush a couple times without nutes? How many areas did you test the PH of on the coco? hopefully a few places including where the fluid gets absorbed into the substrate. I say empty the res, fill it with neutral water, flush, new water, flush, new water, flush. If you see any other signs of lack of nutrition, then add your nute solution.

Obviously im not as sure, just as everyone else, but it'd be the first thing I'd do; not add more nutes to the mix. I think over complication might be the reasons behind this one. (I really just wanted to bump this thread and ask for new pics)

... And Hydro just means that it's grown in water. Could be grown in virtually any other soilless medium.

she did that, and the only plants that are yellowish where the 2 in the autopot, which in fact i mysself suggested she should flush and not use , now the pots are not dipped in there reservoirs bases, lets see in the next few days what happens., ill get picts, very interesting to share this with you all, thanks for helping so far, cool site!

 

[dunkybones]

It is best, but not absolutely necessary, to use coco specific nutes. Coco is hydroponic in that the medium itself is inert, just like rockwool or hydroton. There are however, ways in which coco behaves that are unique in terms of cation exchange, etc., blah, blah, blah. That is why companies make specific coco nutes, it's not a scam. Canna, Ionic, House & Garden, B'Cuzz, all have their specific coco lines. I'm a Canna fan. It's simple to use and works well. Start out as simple as you can, and then ratchet your game up from there. If you keep whacking them with straight water flushes, they'll just starve, because you are growing hydroponically, not in soil.

Good luck getting the girls turned around, the longer they are out of balance the longer it takes to set them straight. And you are already in flower, which means the plants are going through the end of their life cycle and will be less responsive, they are annuals after all.

 

[Shalom Rocket]

It is best, but not absolutely necessary, to use coco specific nutes. Coco is hydroponic in that the medium itself is inert, just like rockwool or hydroton. There are however, ways in which coco behaves that are unique in terms of cation exchange, etc., blah, blah, blah. That is why companies make specific coco nutes, it's not a scam. Canna, Ionic, House & Garden, B'Cuzz, all have their specific coco lines. I'm a Canna fan. It's simple to use and works well. Start out as simple as you can, and then ratchet your game up from there. If you keep whacking them with straight water flushes, they'll just starve, because you are growing hydroponically, not in soil.

Good luck getting the girls turned around, the longer they are out of balance the longer it takes to set them straight. And you are already in flower, which means the plants are going through the end of their life cycle and will be less responsive, they are annuals after all.

she just got Canna A and B, i guess the chart they recomend will work

 

[PIE]

stick to the canna feeding program and u shouldn't go far wrong. I use the full canna range, A and B ,rhizotonic, cannazym,PK in the 3rd week of flower and the canna boost.great results all i do is stick to the light feeding schedule religiously and have great results.My current grow is all white widow and takes a little bit more feeding so keep an eye on your plants your ppm or ec and your ph.tell your friend good luck from me.

 

[Shalom Rocket]

stick to the canna feeding program and u shouldn't go far wrong. I use the full canna range, A and B ,rhizotonic, cannazym,PK in the 3rd week of flower and the canna boost.great results all i do is stick to the light feeding schedule religiously and have great results.My current grow is all white widow and takes a little bit more feeding so keep an eye on your plants your ppm or ec and your ph.tell your friend good luck from me.

you feed every day or other day?

what about the autopot reservoir, would you suggest she fills that up with canna nutes (mothers vegitaion only 18 hours p/d) ?

 

[autopotking]

Auto pots do not like a very high EC at the start of the cycle only on flower will the plants uptake high EC....I have found this to give much better results i have tried it with EC 30 all the way through but the results are not as good as...

Tell her to try EC 20 until flower then you can up the EC..

Also Use a little cal Mag

 

[Shalom Rocket]

Auto pots do not like a very high EC at the start of the cycle only on flower will the plants uptake high EC....I have found this to give much better results i have tried it with EC 30 all the way through but the results are not as good as...

Tell her to try EC 20 until flower then you can up the EC..

Also Use a little cal Mag

how do you EC, she has a EC tester but what exactly do you do, and which cal/mag would you recomend

 

[*mistress*]

calcium deficiency...
cal deficicency appears @ tops of plant fisrt.
mag deficiency appears @ bottom of plant 1st...

cal is not easily translocated, so, only portions of plant can appear sick, while other side look ok.

several cal supps on market...
adjust foliar ph to 6.5-7.0. add couple drops of baby oil & detergent for sticker/surfacant.

repeat in 5 days.

may be that ph of solution needs raising, if want to correct thru roots. takes longer, as cal doesnt move in plant as freely, as say, nitrogen.

ideally, both cal & mag fed entirely separately than other nutes.
they both can chem react w/ other ferts too much & unpredictable. from precipitation to bicarbonates, to affecting k.

enjoy your garden!

 

[B. Friendly]

Hey everyone

A friend sent fotos of a few plants that where clones, put in a homebox Xs, uses coco and under a 250 watt florescent light on 18 hours a day, the environment was perfect, 75 degrees, nice breeze and all with a fan, could not be more greener,

Later when they got around 2 to 3 feet he put in a very large space (home built room, 7x7 feet, under a 400 watt HPS, fan again but still 18 hours until they get a bit bigger.

At first it was hard to tell from the photographs if the plants where soaking the light (reflecting it) or if they actually looked yellowish on top, now i got better pictures from her and i wanted to share them with you all for advise to see whether they are sick fed wrong.

looks like Nitrogen Deficiency, ph could be high, even in soil the new science is to keep ph btw 5.5 - 5.7
you could have a fertilizer lock also in which case you'll want to use a Clearing Solution like General Hydroponics Flora Kleen.

not sure what you use but here's my feeding Receipe:
Most Products are General Hydroponics. I find they are the best and reasonably priced!!
PH at 5.5 to 5.7, Lower is better than higher in the Ph world. Check your run off to see Ph level

Regular Fert’s used throught grow and bloom cycles are: Flora Micro & Bloom, SubCulture M&B, Floralicious Plus, FloraNectar, Micro Nut’s, CalMg, Hygrozyme, Epsom Salts
Veg Products:
First Week: Grow, Micro, Bloom, SubCult M&B, Floralicious +, FloraNectar Micro Nut’s, CalMg, Jumbo Grn, Hygrozyme(Always at Half Strength), Epsom Salts,
Dutch Master Foliar, PH 6 (DAY 8) All at HALF Strength except foliar spray.
2nd Week: Same as above but at full Strength

3rd Week: Full Strength but Flora Grow at half strength, No Foliar Spray

4th Week: Last Veg Week No Flora Grow used, No Jumbo Green Used No Foliar Spray
LAST feeding of VEG cycle Flush with Clearing Solution(GH Flora Kleen)

Bloom Products: You will need in addition to Regular Fert’s: Bat Guano, Super Bloom, Jumbo Bud, KoolBloom, AN carbohydrates, Dutch Master Foliar.
NO FLORA GROW USED AT ALL.

1ST Week: Day 1 add one or two table spoons per plant of Bat Guano into res tank or topical soil spread also use Super Bloom
End of Week use Dutch Master Foliar Spray
Add Big Bud weeks 1 - 5

2nd Week: Day 15 KoolBloom 1 tsp. Per gal.
AN carbohydrates Beginning of week Super Bloom

3rd Week: Dutch Master Foliar

4th Week: Flush at end of Week with Clearing Solution
Use AN carbohydrates Beginning of week
Day 29 KoolBloom 1 tsp. Per gal.

5 Week: Day 35 KoolBloom 1 tsp. Per gal. Dutch Master Foliar
Use Bat Guano at Beginning of Week soil drench 1-2 tbl. Spoon per pot

6 Week: Use AN carbohydrates Beginning of week

7 Week: Day 45 KoolBloom HALF tsp. per gal.

8th Week: Alternate Clearing Solution and Pure Water PH 5.5
9th Week: Alternate Clearing Solution and Pure Water PH 5.5
10th Week: Alternate Clearing Solution and Pure Water PH 5.5

Products Used: General Hydroponics(GN) Flora Micro, Veg and Bloom. GN Floralicious Plus & FloraNectar and GH Subculture M&B , GH KoolBloom. GN Flora Kleen is my Clearing Solution product
Hygrozyme, CalMg Solution, Epsom Salts,
Micro Nutrient Solution containing bo, cu... Super Bloom
Dutch Master Foliar Spray Veg & Bloom, DM Penetrator
Bat Guano Jumbo Bud Jumbo Green Advanced Nutrients Carbohydrates.

 

[dunkybones]

This "friend", this is her first grow? Keep it as simple as possible. Use those canna nutes, ignore all the supplements, and establish your baseline. Everything those plants need will be in the canna a/b. A little canna pk 13/14 for blooming is part of the base regimen, but not absoletly necessary. As for your ec, I'm in the states and use ppm, and for me and my strain and conditions, 750+/- is the magic number. And google tells me 700 ppm = 1.0 ec. Or, 10 ml. to a gallon, thereabouts.

Continued good luck. How old these plants by now?

 

[ScrubNinja]

how do you EC, she has a EC tester but what exactly do you do

You check it's callibrated if it's new or hasn't been checked in a while, then you just turn it on and hold it in the water/nutes and it gives you a number. Hydro stores have the calibrating fluid - mine is called conductivity standard (CS).

 

[Shalom Rocket]

wow did you guys just save someone's crop,

She said in a single day they went from yellow to green with 3 layers of leafs!

She used Canna Coco and a Hesi (multi) root nute, PH'ed at 5.8/6.0 and no EC testing since she (and i) are clueless, she has one but will look into it more. (she is paranoid about using the net ( i think)

Below are the things she has, she says Canna Coco gets a thumbs up.

The photos show a before (yellow) and after (green) plants in 24 hours!, changing the light and flushing did help but the green came from giving Canna nutes to a 10 liter gallon of water., as well as 20ml of Root nutes.

 

[Shalom Rocket]

This "friend", this is her first grow? Keep it as simple as possible. Use those canna nutes, ignore all the supplements, and establish your baseline. Everything those plants need will be in the canna a/b. A little canna pk 13/14 for blooming is part of the base regimen, but not absoletly necessary. As for your ec, I'm in the states and use ppm, and for me and my strain and conditions, 750+/- is the magic number. And google tells me 700 ppm = 1.0 ec. Or, 10 ml. to a gallon, thereabouts.

Continued good luck. How old these plants by now?

what i can not understand is how you control the EC, like with PH you can use PH up or down but with EC what do you actually do after its calibrated and you want that number ?

 

[ScrubNinja]

what i can not understand is how you control the EC, like with PH you can use PH up or down but with EC what do you actually do after its calibrated and you want that number ?

You adjust the ec before the ph, and you'll probably get to know exactly how much you need for any level EC or at least close. I aim a little bit stronger than that, and then use water to dilute it down to the required EC. Then you adjust the PH and it's done. Think of water as "EC Down"

 

[Shalom Rocket]

You adjust the ec before the ph, and you'll probably get to know exactly how much you need for any level EC or at least close. I aim a little bit stronger than that, and then use water to dilute it down to the required EC. Then you adjust the PH and it's done. Think of water as "EC Down"

i still dont get it, you set up the EC with the liquid, you stick it in the water before you adjust the PH, yeah but what about what happens when you stick it in the water, what levels, what am i supposed to achieve is what i am after, i understand that more water adjusts it from what you say., not sure if that will make the digits go up or down or why.

please let me know, sorry for not getting it

 

[autopotking]

to be on the safe side start with an EC of 1.8 or 18 depending on if the meter is 10x measurement Craven chime in if you would please with your EC levels