Citizen024
Member
You and me in the same boat Toke. Big ups for hanging in there.
2x3meter, 15 plant, 1800watt cheesey scrog
- Thread starter Tokesome
- Start date
Mmm. . . I think I`ve been under estimating the amount of run off I`m getting. I gave all the plants a litre each, and if I leave it long enough sure enough it drips away gently from the wicks I have hanging from the bottom of the pots. It isn`t enough to make the excess drip from the plant pots many holes, but it drips for a long time from the wicks.
The thing is I`m trying to puzzle out is whether I`m better off aiming to get the excess nutes solution to drip from all the pot`s holes so that the medium is regularly flushed at feeding time.
I know there are 2 schools ofd thought on the best way to feed pots of coco, some favour a slow drip feed to gradually build up the moisture till run-off, and some prefer to feed fast in order to have more of a positive push through to flush the salts out more effectively, though I dont know how effective that is by the time the solution has traveled through 12 to 14 liters of fine grade coco, not very I`d have thought
I cant easily measure the amount of run-off from each individual pots sa I have them stood on 3 feet, and each tray has 4-5 plants on and drain into the waste res below (602 nft tank stylie), but I think I`m maybe getting in excess of 50% run-off when I`m feeding 1.5-2ltrs and getting the flushing affect. I`m worried about getting soggy wet bottoms to my pots, something I`ve had problems with before, though I hope the wicks are having a decent enough effect and helping to prevent this.
I checked the run off of the pots that had the highest and the lowest of the ph readings when I checked them a couple of days ago. The one that read 6.4 was down to 6.2 and the one that was 5.9 was 6.0, I assume thats the plants adjusting the ph to suit their individual requirements (?).
The canopy is looking good, and I think the 2 plants that were still showing signs of deficiency/lockout are improving since changing the dodgy bulb.
Toke
The thing is I`m trying to puzzle out is whether I`m better off aiming to get the excess nutes solution to drip from all the pot`s holes so that the medium is regularly flushed at feeding time.
I know there are 2 schools ofd thought on the best way to feed pots of coco, some favour a slow drip feed to gradually build up the moisture till run-off, and some prefer to feed fast in order to have more of a positive push through to flush the salts out more effectively, though I dont know how effective that is by the time the solution has traveled through 12 to 14 liters of fine grade coco, not very I`d have thought
I cant easily measure the amount of run-off from each individual pots sa I have them stood on 3 feet, and each tray has 4-5 plants on and drain into the waste res below (602 nft tank stylie), but I think I`m maybe getting in excess of 50% run-off when I`m feeding 1.5-2ltrs and getting the flushing affect. I`m worried about getting soggy wet bottoms to my pots, something I`ve had problems with before, though I hope the wicks are having a decent enough effect and helping to prevent this.
I checked the run off of the pots that had the highest and the lowest of the ph readings when I checked them a couple of days ago. The one that read 6.4 was down to 6.2 and the one that was 5.9 was 6.0, I assume thats the plants adjusting the ph to suit their individual requirements (?).
The canopy is looking good, and I think the 2 plants that were still showing signs of deficiency/lockout are improving since changing the dodgy bulb.
Toke
Heh heh, great you got an excuse then. I seem to live this groove most of the time, it suits my work when I get it too. I like it this way, its good for me, I like the party life and I like the feeling of being out of sync with society but its a bit tough on my girlfriend who has to get up every weekday.
I cant remember if it was you who asked me how long to run 50ltrs through my RO unit, its a 125GPD and it takes just under 30mins to run 5ltrs, so that works out at 5 hours for 50ltrs. The unit was 80-90 quid, a doddle to fit, but think about where you want it to be permanently as its not so easy to move once you`ve spiked your valve into your cold mains!
It does seem to me that the RO water and calmax are doing the trick, but I almost dare not say so for fear of speaking too soon. I`m using straight RO water with added Calmax at 5-6mls per 4ltrs.
Toke
I cant remember if it was you who asked me how long to run 50ltrs through my RO unit, its a 125GPD and it takes just under 30mins to run 5ltrs, so that works out at 5 hours for 50ltrs. The unit was 80-90 quid, a doddle to fit, but think about where you want it to be permanently as its not so easy to move once you`ve spiked your valve into your cold mains!
It does seem to me that the RO water and calmax are doing the trick, but I almost dare not say so for fear of speaking too soon. I`m using straight RO water with added Calmax at 5-6mls per 4ltrs.
Toke
Well thinking more about my feeding quantities, I`ve checked the Canna advice and it recommends 4-6ltr pre meter squared for fully grown plants.
I guess the plants are not fully grown until stretch is complete (?).
My area is 4.5 square meters and according to Canna`s calculations I should be feeding 18-27 ltrs per day, and I`m giving them 28 though my plants aren`t fully grown yet, and my canopy doesn`t completely fill the 4.5 square meter, so I guess I may be feeding too much. I`ll take it back down to 1.5ltrs and try and measure the run-off from a couple of individual pots and see what percentage it is.
I dont know how much measuring the ec or ph of the run-off tells you as Canna says its not reliable. They say to use the 1.5 method, which is, if I`ve got it right 150mls of water (doesn`t say RO or tap) in a measuring jug, fill to 250mls with coco from the different areas of the pot (to be taken with a soil core sampler or a trowel. . . yikes. . . what about the roots??) mixed well, then left to settle for at least 2 hours, then mixed again and measure the ph, then filter out the slurry and measure the ec. The aim is ec1.1 to ec1.3 ph 5.3 to 6.2.
To do that would for sure chop through a lot of roots in order to get at the coco from the mid to bottom of the pots, and surely not undertaken by the average home grower. It says its best to do it around week 3 or 4 so it`d be about the time to check it, but is there even a rough guide to be taken from measuring the ec and ph of the run-off, or is it totally unreliable information I wonder? If anyone reading this knows anymore than I do on this, would you please chime in, thanks.
Here are some picks of underneath the canopy where I`m busy thinning down the shoots and leaves. As you can see from the first two, its quite busy down there.
After I`ve done some thinning out they`re looking a bit like these
I`m fairly new to scrogging so I`m not suggesting I`ve doing this exactly right and the views of other scrog growers would be welcomed.
The canopy is looking like this now.
Cheers, Toke
I guess the plants are not fully grown until stretch is complete (?).
My area is 4.5 square meters and according to Canna`s calculations I should be feeding 18-27 ltrs per day, and I`m giving them 28 though my plants aren`t fully grown yet, and my canopy doesn`t completely fill the 4.5 square meter, so I guess I may be feeding too much. I`ll take it back down to 1.5ltrs and try and measure the run-off from a couple of individual pots and see what percentage it is.
I dont know how much measuring the ec or ph of the run-off tells you as Canna says its not reliable. They say to use the 1.5 method, which is, if I`ve got it right 150mls of water (doesn`t say RO or tap) in a measuring jug, fill to 250mls with coco from the different areas of the pot (to be taken with a soil core sampler or a trowel. . . yikes. . . what about the roots??) mixed well, then left to settle for at least 2 hours, then mixed again and measure the ph, then filter out the slurry and measure the ec. The aim is ec1.1 to ec1.3 ph 5.3 to 6.2.
To do that would for sure chop through a lot of roots in order to get at the coco from the mid to bottom of the pots, and surely not undertaken by the average home grower. It says its best to do it around week 3 or 4 so it`d be about the time to check it, but is there even a rough guide to be taken from measuring the ec and ph of the run-off, or is it totally unreliable information I wonder? If anyone reading this knows anymore than I do on this, would you please chime in, thanks.
Here are some picks of underneath the canopy where I`m busy thinning down the shoots and leaves. As you can see from the first two, its quite busy down there.
After I`ve done some thinning out they`re looking a bit like these
I`m fairly new to scrogging so I`m not suggesting I`ve doing this exactly right and the views of other scrog growers would be welcomed.
The canopy is looking like this now.
Cheers, Toke
B
bonecarver_OG
tokesome 
its really looking pimped up now
im looking forward to some nice flower shots from here later on then
peace
its really looking pimped up now im looking forward to some nice flower shots from here later on then
peace
Citizen024
Member
I went to RO- things seem to be getting better. Keepin them fingers crossed.
If you think your having a micro nut issue again everl- try foliar of Microblast from Earth Juice. Always handy to have around. Or epsom salt at 1/2 tsp per quart for mg.
If you think your having a micro nut issue again everl- try foliar of Microblast from Earth Juice. Always handy to have around. Or epsom salt at 1/2 tsp per quart for mg.
Citizen024
Member
last tip on the scrog- trim out all that small under branch or else you'll get nothing but popcorn nugs.
I trim mine down to just thick good branches. I leave the smaller ones that can reach the canopy. I drop my trellis right as they bloom, let em stretch through it. If they are too tall already I simply bend em under it, let em turn, then trim out anything that isnt making it out.
About a week after bloom starts, you'll want to thin them agaian and take out all the little nothing branches.
Used right they work really well. Don't recommend "weaving" plants into them. Just let make one bend if you need too, then let em come on up. If they get taller later stretch the white trellis new across them to hold em up.
I trim mine down to just thick good branches. I leave the smaller ones that can reach the canopy. I drop my trellis right as they bloom, let em stretch through it. If they are too tall already I simply bend em under it, let em turn, then trim out anything that isnt making it out.
About a week after bloom starts, you'll want to thin them agaian and take out all the little nothing branches.
Used right they work really well. Don't recommend "weaving" plants into them. Just let make one bend if you need too, then let em come on up. If they get taller later stretch the white trellis new across them to hold em up.
I think they talk of this method (using distilled or RO water) because of coco's CEC- the coco is taking nutes out of the water/ nute mix. So if you think of it like that maybe it kinda makes some sense that the EC figs would be out of whack. That's my take on it anyway as they don't really specify why you need to perform the 1:5 method. Although the rest of their literature on coco kinda suggests this.
Thanks for the info on the RO... Do you know if they can be hooked up to a hose and tap? Ideally I'd like the unit in the room itself as no space in my kitchen at all... Having it hooked up to hose then I could run water when I wanted.... is that possible do you know?
Your plants are looking pretty good mate, a few colas developing there.... What is the reason for not filling the rest of the screen in?
Are you still vegging now?
sure you can run your Ro filter on any tap 0r 3/4inch connection, i wouldnt use a hose ever drink from one? water tastes like rubber.
So the tap can still be used while RO is connected like in the laundry washing machine tap where i have mine. Only extra fitting you need that doesnt come in a ro filter kit is at brass Y shape tap splitter spenf the extra must have on/off valve on each side of the Y joiner so you can turn washer water off when RO in use and vice versa.
So the tap can still be used while RO is connected like in the laundry washing machine tap where i have mine. Only extra fitting you need that doesnt come in a ro filter kit is at brass Y shape tap splitter spenf the extra must have on/off valve on each side of the Y joiner so you can turn washer water off when RO in use and vice versa.
Thanks Citizen, hope thr RO works out as well as it has done for me.
~Shhh~, yeahI`m guessing that as long as the nutes dont get high and the ph does`nt drop too much in the run-off, things are ok..
Yhe RO could be fitted to the mains as I described, it runs off 1/4 inch hose. You could then fit a push fit in line tap near to the mains and connect, disconnect the hose when needed. You`ll also need to extend the waste hose back to drain, as you drain a much bigger volume to waste, which is higher ec ph etc as the crap thats taken out of the filtered water runs out with the waste, no big job though. Anything else, just ask mate.
I didnt time going to 12/12 quite right hence the screen not being completely full. I`m on day18 of 63 flower now.
Cheers, Toke
~Shhh~, yeahI`m guessing that as long as the nutes dont get high and the ph does`nt drop too much in the run-off, things are ok..
Yhe RO could be fitted to the mains as I described, it runs off 1/4 inch hose. You could then fit a push fit in line tap near to the mains and connect, disconnect the hose when needed. You`ll also need to extend the waste hose back to drain, as you drain a much bigger volume to waste, which is higher ec ph etc as the crap thats taken out of the filtered water runs out with the waste, no big job though. Anything else, just ask mate.
I didnt time going to 12/12 quite right hence the screen not being completely full. I`m on day18 of 63 flower now.
Cheers, Toke
Citizen024
Member
The RO unit I have is SUPER easy to set up.
I use a StealthRO from Hydrologic. 100 or 200 gpd. They make all sorts of plumbbing fitting etc for it as well. Easy to change the filters, and cheap (1200gal finished water per sediment and charcoal filter- about $25 to replace the pair. $100 for a new RO membrane). The 100gpd cost me like $150 (got the homie hook up- reg would be like $170'ish). Not bad at all.
Anyhow- they make it super easy. Just connect a flex hose fitting to a 3/4" hose and your good to go. Run the drain lines and flow lines. All color coded hoses, super easy. It accepts a wide range of pressures, it just doesn't like to be hit real hard with big pressure changes. They make float valves etc. It is litterally pulg and play.
I do the brass Y as well, with little control valves so I can control flow to either a garden hose or the RO independently.
I use a StealthRO from Hydrologic. 100 or 200 gpd. They make all sorts of plumbbing fitting etc for it as well. Easy to change the filters, and cheap (1200gal finished water per sediment and charcoal filter- about $25 to replace the pair. $100 for a new RO membrane). The 100gpd cost me like $150 (got the homie hook up- reg would be like $170'ish). Not bad at all.
Anyhow- they make it super easy. Just connect a flex hose fitting to a 3/4" hose and your good to go. Run the drain lines and flow lines. All color coded hoses, super easy. It accepts a wide range of pressures, it just doesn't like to be hit real hard with big pressure changes. They make float valves etc. It is litterally pulg and play.
I do the brass Y as well, with little control valves so I can control flow to either a garden hose or the RO independently.
As the stretch continues quite steadily the main tops are shaddowing many of the next set of tops so I`ve been cutting the trellis to allow me to pull main stems around and down by a 2-3 inches. I`ve complete one of the three trays and I intend on doing the rest tmro.
After moving main stems about there are loads more tops getting the light. I dont think I`m overdoing it, just moving the taller ones to a neighbouring square or 2 squares away brings them down just enough to lower by 2-3 inches without taking any of the buds below the screen, the result is a much more even canopy with better spacing of the tops.
I was just going to let them do their own thing, but after seeking some advice from Scroger I re-evaluated things. I`m sure its only after you`ve done a few successful scrogs that you can have a set idea/plan for the grow, but I think this one is coming together well thanks to some top help and a fair amount of graft. I`m pretty sure this will be the last of this training/re-arranging for this grow other than tucking leaves etc.
I`ll try and post some pics in a while, or after tmro`s work.
My nutrient solution is still going in at ec1.5 @ ph5.9, as it gets a bit heavier into flower I`ll raise to ec1,8 for a couple of weeks.
I think the advised timing for the PK13/14 supplement has changed in recent times. Canna always advocated the use for one week only, to be applied 3 weeks before harvest. I think its now advised to give it from earlier on in the grow. I`ll be looking into that, and that`ll be the only added supplement for the rest of the grow. T.
After moving main stems about there are loads more tops getting the light. I dont think I`m overdoing it, just moving the taller ones to a neighbouring square or 2 squares away brings them down just enough to lower by 2-3 inches without taking any of the buds below the screen, the result is a much more even canopy with better spacing of the tops.
I was just going to let them do their own thing, but after seeking some advice from Scroger I re-evaluated things. I`m sure its only after you`ve done a few successful scrogs that you can have a set idea/plan for the grow, but I think this one is coming together well thanks to some top help and a fair amount of graft. I`m pretty sure this will be the last of this training/re-arranging for this grow other than tucking leaves etc.
I`ll try and post some pics in a while, or after tmro`s work.
My nutrient solution is still going in at ec1.5 @ ph5.9, as it gets a bit heavier into flower I`ll raise to ec1,8 for a couple of weeks.
I think the advised timing for the PK13/14 supplement has changed in recent times. Canna always advocated the use for one week only, to be applied 3 weeks before harvest. I think its now advised to give it from earlier on in the grow. I`ll be looking into that, and that`ll be the only added supplement for the rest of the grow. T.
