Wanna Ask The Old Farts A Question?

[HempKat]

Using the Hogs breath then, if I understand correctly, if it had more potency, it would probably have more trics or something, but could look and smell just like Hog?

Well I'm not sure the triches would be more as I haven't tried that strain but I don't think you can make the connection that more potency means more triches. It could simply mean that the THC in the triches that are present, is stronger. From what I've experienced though I'd say if anything would be different besides potency, in a more potent pheno, the difference would be in taste and smell. Going back to the C-99 for example, the pineapple pheno is not just more potent but has a different taste and smell.

 

[HempKat]

Ok, I have a question for the old farts:

I have some house plants that haven't been doing well and I was thinking after reading some stuff on this site that the ph of my soil may be too high (I tested the runoff water with some old pH strips I had from when I was prospecting and trying to precipitate gold out of solution). I don't have any pH adjustment stuff, but I was wondering can I safely adjust pH down with lemon juice, and safely asjust up with crushed Tums (calcium carbonate)?

In theory you could as one is more acidic and one more alkaline however I have heard reports of lemon juice and also vinegar causing other problems even though it did change the ph. I can't think of a good substitute for the lemon juice but instead of Tums for a ph up I'd use dolomite lime which isn't expensive and can be found in most hardware stores and garden centers.

Also before you go adjusting things find out what ph range the plant in question likes as some like things more acidic then others.

 

[HempKat]

hi hempkat sorry about not putting the link to the picture hopefully this will help and thanx for the advice and reply.

http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250857
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250858
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250859
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250861

these are pics off the whole bud and as you can see new growth not showing any sign.
also noticed i few leaves curling in and upwards what could this be a sign off.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250872
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250878
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250876
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250875

this last pic is a small satori im also testing out looking nice.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250873

Well from what I can see and what you've told me it seems like it would be nutrient burn. The only thing though is that if it was nutrient burn it should be all over the plant and not just on a few leaves. Now if you foliar feed with nutrients or if in watering other plants you might have spilled some water/nutrient mix on that plant then that could account for the isolated damage. All in all though it looks like things are okay and that the plant is pretty healthy.

As for the leaf curl, I can't really tell, often leaf curl is caused by some form of moisture stress but again if it were that it should be more wide spread.

 

[Kola Radical]

What do you do when your balls start hanging into the water in the toilet when you sit down?

 

[HempKat]

What do you do when your balls start hanging into the water in the toilet when you sit down?

I don't know, I don't have that problem, buy a deeper toilet maybe?

 

[goneforasmoke]

hi hempkat i am starting of some seeds and i am looking to find out what light cycle you use as I have only ever gone from clones before and done 18/6 in veg and 12/12 in flower.

When starting seeds I have germinated them in moist paper towels in between to plates to keep heat in,
root comes out fine and then i transfer them to my jiffs (little rot wool cubes) soked in power thive.
I then put them in my small propagator and wait until I see them pop through and then switch on my veg light asap,
what I am wondering is what light cycle do I have it on for seedlings until they have established roots do I leave the light on 24hours until a certain stage and then switch to 18/6, or do I switch to 18/6 as soon the first sign of the plant comes through the rot wool cube
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250863
These are my seedlings and I have had the light on them now for 24hours for the past week the light is a 250watt enviro light low energy thing,
am I doing it right or should I be on 18/6
they are all looking healthy but i'm thinking should they be bigger by now.
what do you think?
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250870
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250869
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250868
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250867
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250866
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250865
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250863

 

[goneforasmoke]

another question i have is on nute mixing,
what is the rule on mixing up nutes in your resi and time left between adding next nute

i fill my resi and leave it for 24hours for the chlorine to escape.
Then next day i add my Canna A & B, Cannazym and Canna boost, when i do this how long should i leave it between adding each part of nutes,

is this important and if so for what reason.
cheers

 

[HempKat]

hi hempkat i am starting of some seeds and i am looking to find out what light cycle you use as I have only ever gone from clones before and done 18/6 in veg and 12/12 in flower.

When starting seeds I have germinated them in moist paper towels in between to plates to keep heat in,
root comes out fine and then i transfer them to my jiffs (little rot wool cubes) soked in power thive.
I then put them in my small propagator and wait until I see them pop through and then switch on my veg light asap,
what I am wondering is what light cycle do I have it on for seedlings until they have established roots do I leave the light on 24hours until a certain stage and then switch to 18/6, or do I switch to 18/6 as soon the first sign of the plant comes through the rot wool cube
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250863
These are my seedlings and I have had the light on them now for 24hours for the past week the light is a 250watt enviro light low energy thing,
am I doing it right or should I be on 18/6
they are all looking healthy but i'm thinking should they be bigger by now.
what do you think?
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250870
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250869
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250868
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250867
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250866
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250865
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=12549&pictureid=250863

Those look like a fairly decent size for a week of growth, don't worry though, they'll get alot bigger.

Your light cycle is okay at 24/0, in fact if you wanted to you can veg for a full 2 month veg cycle at 24/0. As I understand it, somewhere along the way someone discovered that if you don't give your plants a dark period they'll just keep growing and growing and even grow more then on 18/6. I tried it when I heard about it and what I discovered was that the plants I grew at 24/0 only got a few inches bigger but either way I got plants in the four foot tall range and at that height a couple of inches isn't really much of a difference. I also noticed that while the plant seemed generally healthy there was just something not quite right about it. I've talked with many others who have experienced the same things growing 24/0. Another thing both myself and others have noticed is that plants grown 24/0 tend to take longer to switch to flower. That is after you have switched to 12/12 it takes longer then normal for 24/0 plsnts to reveal their sex.

So while it's doable to grow 24/0, I actually advise against it. Plants have evolved over thousands of years to adapt better to their environment and no where that marijuana grows has a 24/0 cycle. Whether you attribute things to god or mothernature no living creature on this planet was meant to live without sleep. If you go 18/6 from the moment the plant sprouts (I actually have a light on them before they even sprout but I just use soil, not rock wool) the plant will grow pretty much as big, it'll be healthier and you'll save a decent chunk of money on your electric bill.

From everything you described you sound like a fairly good grower you just need to get some more experience under the belt to give you more confidence.

I was just looking at the pics again and notice they seem rather yellowish, is that how the plants are or is it the light?

 

[HempKat]

another question i have is on nute mixing,
what is the rule on mixing up nutes in your resi and time left between adding next nute

i fill my resi and leave it for 24hours for the chlorine to escape.
Then next day i add my Canna A & B, Cannazym and Canna boost, when i do this how long should i leave it between adding each part of nutes,

is this important and if so for what reason.
cheers

I have zero experience with hydro so unfortunately I can't help you those questions.

 

[Pinball Wizard]

Hello HempKat

Hello HempKat

I would like your opinion on this pic. Could it be Light Bleaching?...or an overdose of 10-52-10?

Week #3 ...12/12...400 watt CMH bulb...never been over 80 degrees....with good ventilation between canopy and bulb. Ph has always been 6.7

...

 

[HempKat]

I would like your opinion on this pic. Could it be Light Bleaching?...or an overdose of 10-52-10?

Week #3 ...12/12...400 watt CMH bulb...never been over 80 degrees....with good ventilation between canopy and bulb. Ph has always been 6.7

...

Looks like light bleaching to me. How close is that light to the plants? The reccommended distance between canopy and bulb for a 400W is approximately 12 inches.

 

[Weezard]

To sit, or not to sit.

To sit, or not to sit.

I have zero experience with hydro so unfortunately I can't help you those questions.

Perhaps I can help.
Letting the water sit for 24 hours is counter-productive.
Here's why.
Years ago, they used Chlorine gas to disinfect water.
Folks would let water sit before they drank it to allow time for the Chlorine gas to escape.
Wasn't really harmfull, but it smelled funny.

Now, most water providers use Chloramine, which is a chemical compound.
It will not "outgas".
It breaks down slowly in the presence of Ammonia, but is not a problem for plants.
It actually helps keep slime molds and other nasties at bay.

However, dissolved air can and will outgas if you let the water sit.
Flat water, (water without dissolved air), will drown your roots.
If for some reason you have to let your water sit, throw in an airstone to keep it "fresh".
Since dissolved air can change the PH, always aerate before you test.

I'm unsure about nute mixing pauses.
I'd guess that indiscriminate mixing of different manufacturers nutes could cause some salts to precipitate out and or cause overkill of some elements.
Just guessin, don't really know about that.

Aloha and mele Kalikimaka to y'all.

Weezard

 

[Shiherlis]

Hempkat, how long does good soil last? I understand the microbial ingredients die off in time.. I was thinking about using some ocean forest soil that I picked up last summer, but I'm wondering if I should buy a new bag.

 

[HempKat]

Hempkat, how long does good soil last? I understand the microbial ingredients die off in time.. I was thinking about using some ocean forest soil that I picked up last summer, but I'm wondering if I should buy a new bag.

I'd have to say it's all dependent on what you typically feed your plants (chemical or organic) and how balanced the diet you give them is. If it's a completely balanced diet and you use a chemical based fertalizer then I'd say it doesn't matter so much how old the soil is. Plants can start feeding off of chemical ferts immediately and therefore the chemical ferts don't need to be broken down and no microbial life is needed to help break them down. As long as the diet is complete (including micronutrients) there's not much the plant needs from the soil other then room to spread it's roots out in. In that situation the soil is just a medium like any other non soil medium, many of which have no additional value to the plants.

Now if you're going organic then there is a need for microbial life and perhaps some nutritional elements present in the soil naturally. Organic nutrients are not immediately available to the plant and must be broken down first. It can get done in soil without microbial life but it'll take longer. Of course adding microbial life isn't terribly hard, you can buy mycorrhizae and add that to the soil to give it microbial life or even just using rainwater whenever possible can accomplish the task. Regardless of what type of nutrients you use you'll likely want to add about 1 to 2 tablespoons of dolomite lime to the soil for every gallon of soil you use. Dolomite lime provides some micro nutrients like calcium and magnesium, both of which are important to the plant's health but it also helps buffer the ph to a good level for soil so that if what you add is too acidic the lime will help make it not so acidic.

Me personally I would not reuse soil if I could help it. Especially if it was some fancy expensive stuff like Fox Farms sells. That soil is pretty good stuff but at about $20 per cubic foot it's way too expensive for me. I can buy twice as much soil at a store like Home Depot for about half as much money (2 cubic feet for under $10). At that price and with how easy it is to go to the store and pick up a bag of soil whenever I want or need it, it doesn't make sense to try to reuse it. I currently get the Miracle Grow Organic soil mix and it has worked very well for me. In the past though I also used Expert Gardener Perfect Potting Mix and that also worked out well. So what I usually do is use the soil once and then after harvest I save it, break the rootball out of it and then I just add it to anywhere in my yard that looks like it could use some more soil. The plants growing wherever I've added it always seem to do a bit better for me having added it.

If I were to get into reusing soil for my plants I would also want to get into composting and then just add the compost to the soil to revitalize it with nutritional elements and microbial life. An added benefit of going this route is you can use the compost pile to dispose of things like the roots, leaves that fall off during growth and leaves you remove at harvest. Since the compost pile is likely in your yard and only you ever deal with it you can dispose of these things there without fear of being caught although on the chance someone might see something, anything incriminating that you add should be covered up. The compost pile will break these things down into compost and thereby recover any nutrition locked into them and these elements will be even better suited to your plants then stuff you can buy, plus there's the added bonus of getting rid of evidence in a safe productive and environmentally friendly way.

 

[Weezard]

I beg to differ.

I beg to differ.

I would like your opinion on this pic. Could it be Light Bleaching?...or an overdose of 10-52-10?

Week #3 ...12/12...400 watt CMH bulb...never been over 80 degrees....with good ventilation between canopy and bulb. Ph has always been 6.7

...

Aloha PBW

I gotta say, that does not look like light bleaching to me.
More like heat damage.
I have a light struck bud pic. here somewhere.
Hang on...
Ah, there 'tis;

Hard to see, but it's paper white with no "curling" if it's just light burn.
Also, notice how thick the other leaves get as a defense against too much light.


Mahalo Wiz.
And aloha
Weeze

 

[Gold123]

Perhaps I can help.
Letting the water sit for 24 hours is counter-productive.
Here's why.
Years ago, they used Chlorine gas to disinfect water.
Folks would let water sit before they drank it to allow time for the Chlorine gas to escape.
Wasn't really harmfull, but it smelled funny.

Now, most water providers use Chloramine, which is a chemical compound.
It will not "outgas".
It breaks down slowly in the presence of Ammonia, but is not a problem for plants.
It actually helps keep slime molds and other nasties at bay.

However, dissolved air can and will outgas if you let the water sit.
Flat water, (water without dissolved air), will drown your roots.
If for some reason you have to let your water sit, throw in an airstone to keep it "fresh".
Since dissolved air can change the PH, always aerate before you test.

I'm unsure about nute mixing pauses.
I'd guess that indiscriminate mixing of different manufacturers nutes could cause some salts to precipitate out and or cause overkill of some elements.
Just guessin, don't really know about that.

Aloha and mele Kalikimaka to y'all.

Weezard

This may be the problem that I was having, my grow store told me to store my h2o to let the chlorine dissipate, as we used to do for tropical fish. Since I started doing that my root mass has been considerably smaller, and the plants were less productive. I just sunk air stones in my tanks.
Question, does tap h2o with chlorine kill the microbes in Cannazym and Rhizotonic?

 

[Weezard]

Google it.

Google it.

This may be the problem that I was having, my grow store told me to store my h2o to let the chlorine dissipate, as we used to do for tropical fish. Since I started doing that my root mass has been considerably smaller, and the plants were less productive. I just sunk air stones in my tanks.
Question, does tap h2o with chlorine kill the microbes in Cannazym and Rhizotonic?

Well, Chlorine gas, if concentrated enough, could give you problems.
But, Chlorine gas is rarely used today for many reasons.

The Chloramine that is used, and it's breakdown products, are harmful to fish.
Less so for microbes but still not entirely harmless.
However letting the water sit for a day does not eliminate chloramine!

If you grow organically and are worried about Chloramine, drop a 500mg. vitamin C tablet in the water bucket for each 5 gallons of tap water.
That's ascorbic acid, it won't hurt the microbial life and will break the Chloramine down to Haloacetic acid which is relatively harmless in low concentrations.
And we are talking parts per billion here.

Disclaimer:
Much of the above depends on my memory, which should not be depended upon.
For the real skinny, google, I'm jus' too lazy lately to beat any dead horses.

Aloha
Weezard

 

[Gold123]

Well, Chlorine gas, if concentrated enough, could give you problems.
But, Chlorine gas is rarely used today for many reasons.

The Chloramine that is used, and it's breakdown products, are harmful to fish.
Less so for microbes but still not entirely harmless.
However letting the water sit for a day does not eliminate chloramine!

If you grow organically and are worried about Chloramine, drop a 500mg. vitamin C tablet in the water bucket for each 5 gallons of tap water.
That's ascorbic acid, it won't hurt the microbial life and will break the Chloramine down to Haloacetic acid which is relatively harmless in low concentrations.
And we are talking parts per billion here.

Disclaimer:
Much of the above depends on my memory, which should not be depended upon.
For the real skinny, google, I'm jus' too lazy lately to beat any dead horses.

Aloha
Weezard

I'm not organically challenged. What chemical method is there to remove chlorine effectively?

 

[hoosierdaddy]

Weezard, I don't really think you can make the blanket statement that "most" water treatment facilities use Chloromine instead of chlorine. Some of them do today, but from what I understand those are the vast minority in the US.
Anyone can call their water supplier and ask about what they use to treat the water. They will tell you if they use chloromines or not.
If they do, I would suggest not using that water at all for growing weed. There are a couple of threads around here that will explain the harms of chloromine.

To rid water of chlorine immediately, introduce 30ml of 3% H2O2 to the water, and feed as needed with no worry about chlorine being present. The solution will also enhance the plants growing and health.

 

[goneforasmoke]

hi there I have a question
when re-potting in veg and the light cycle is on 20/4 or 18/6
do you have to leave the light off for 24 hours and then start the light cycle again

And another one, when re-potting is it better to water after 24 hours or water a little when re-potted?