3LB's Molasses - The Miracle Addative
- Thread starter guineapig
- Start date
this is a function of geography. in the northeast USA blasckstrap can be hard to come by. I know in the south it's easy, but I'm not sure about the rest. You will see unsulphured organic molasses, but the grade is higher and it isn't as good. You may need to find a specialty store, like a certain fancy food market or a health place.
I use plantation brand black strap, but I have to go to a specific place for it.
LazerHaze360
Member
I picked up a jar of House of Herbs brand blackstrap molasses and the labeling doesn't say unsulphered anywhere, soo im guessing its sulphered. Also, the iron content is listed as 70%. Is this possible or is this a typo?
Im thinking I shouldn't use this blackstrap because it's not unsulphered....?
Im thinking I shouldn't use this blackstrap because it's not unsulphered....?
It'll be OK. Some folks get the animal feed type of molasses from the feed store and use that it and works just fine.
informeldahyde
Member
I was always taught and have read in several reputable grow manuals to use unsulphered molasses. What is the advantage to using blackstrap?
See post #1
S
staff11
If you have a local Whole Foods or another health food/organic store they should have the Brer Rabbit brand. (this is in the Midwest)
S
staff11
......
W
whiterasta
Sulphured molasses make an excellent foliar spray when pH neutralized.
The sulphur is excellent at preventing mold and mildew on O/D plants.
Mixed lightly (~2teaspoons/gal) it is rapidly absorbed but persistant on the leaf. Pests dislike the spray especially brewed with capiscum and as I said the sulphur helps prevent powder mildew and rot when applied with restraint. excess will leave sugars and encourage rot while conservative application prevents it.
This mix I use as a foliar for O/D in mold prone oregon
1gal R/O water
2teaspoons sulphured mollasses
1/8 cup cayenne flakes
2drops dish soap
Boil first three ingredients and strain well till nearly clear. Cool and add soap.
Spray in the AM after the dew has left to cover without drenching.
This has no affect on beneficial predators like wasps but sucking insects do not like it and molds hate it.
sprayed within a week of harvest it leaves no detectable residues and is completely safe.
Hope this helps somebody
WR
The sulphur is excellent at preventing mold and mildew on O/D plants.
Mixed lightly (~2teaspoons/gal) it is rapidly absorbed but persistant on the leaf. Pests dislike the spray especially brewed with capiscum and as I said the sulphur helps prevent powder mildew and rot when applied with restraint. excess will leave sugars and encourage rot while conservative application prevents it.
This mix I use as a foliar for O/D in mold prone oregon
1gal R/O water
2teaspoons sulphured mollasses
1/8 cup cayenne flakes
2drops dish soap
Boil first three ingredients and strain well till nearly clear. Cool and add soap.
Spray in the AM after the dew has left to cover without drenching.
This has no affect on beneficial predators like wasps but sucking insects do not like it and molds hate it.
sprayed within a week of harvest it leaves no detectable residues and is completely safe.
Hope this helps somebody
WR
W
whiterasta
I have used molasses with great result for many years. I never did buy the whole "carb source bullshit" as the plant makes its carbs in the leaf.
What I do know is it is a monster nutrient for beneficial soil organisms.
I am a religious believer in live soils with healthy thriving micro-organisms that directly feed the root hair of the plant.
I have my doubts about the bio-availability of raw mollases to the root zone ( not about foliar feeding though)what I have no doubts about is the fact that mollases will increase the number of said organisms in the root zone thus making more food available to the plant directly via symbiotic exchange in the root hair.
Dry molasses is one of the ingredients of my soils along with a commercial myco-inoculant and two mycorhyzoidal mushrooms, Oregon White truffel and Chanterelle. The soil is cultured at 65-75F for a couple weeks then is ready for use needing very little additional ferts until bloom is well under way.
WR
W
whiterasta
They are mycorhyzoidal secondary decomposers. They will form intersections with almost any root system and produce nutes directly at the root hair mycorhyzae junction. They however will not fruit unless they have the correct root system. since fruiting is unnecessary in this situation they are there for there symbiotic connecion to the root hairs.
WR
