can u make your own SUGAR DADDY?

[Kanye WeED]

All sugar daddy really is is molasses and water correct?

well if u put some black strap molasses in with some water and mix it and let it set can u use it like sugar daddy on a soil grow?

i know it isnt organic but it would be if u made ur own correct?

thanks guys sorry if this is the wrong forum!!!

 

[LadyLargely]

You sure can buddy!

But like all 'raw' ferts molasses works best pre-digested. I would add it to water along with some other mild ferts and then bubble for a couple of days, though you can bubble straight molasses water by itself. Aerobic bacteria will come along and munch on the bits of the molasses that the plants can't consume like the raw carbohydrates, leaving only the desirable stuff behind like lots of magnesium and iron.

You could add some molasses water to your medium/hydro system straight but trust me, you'll be way better off bubbling it first.

 

[Kanye WeED]

You sure can buddy!

But like all 'raw' ferts molasses works best pre-digested. I would add it to water along with some other mild ferts and then bubble for a couple of days, though you can bubble straight molasses water by itself. Aerobic bacteria will come along and munch on the bits of the molasses that the plants can't consume like the raw carbohydrates, leaving only the desirable stuff behind like lots of magnesium and iron.

You could add some molasses water to your medium/hydro system straight but trust me, you'll be way better off bubbling it first.

hey thanks, so do u think there is actually a certain amount of molasses water i can store, and it be just like sugar daddy??

sounds like u know ur stuff

my local hydro shop guy just stop carrying the stuff for some reason he would get a fine if he had it so i just wanna make my own

how much should i add to say a gallon of water?

what is all in sugar daddy?

anything else i can add to help out the sugar daddy wanna be mix?

thanks alot for the response!!!

 

[*mistress*]

1 tbspn of blackstrap per gal will be fine. wheter bubbled prior to app or not. chelates, buffers, & adds sugars for microbes.

 

[Citizen024]

I previously posted a thread about homemade Sweet/Sugar Daddy. Go read that for more info. If your going to make a bunch and store it, I recommend doing this: concentrate it.

Boil water, add brown sugar/mollasses/ whatever the fuck sugar your into. Add a ratio so that your end up knowing how much water you have for every tsp of sugar. For example- if I use 32 ounces of water, and I add 64 tsp of mollasses, then I know that for every 1/2 ounce of solution I have 1 gallons worth of nutrient solution dilution. So- 15 gallon res would need 7.5 ounces of your concentrated sugar water.

The boiling does two things: kills all life, and allows you to form super saturated solutions on dissolved sugar.

NOW then, Sugar Daddy/Sweet are MORE then just sugar, they contain epsom salts too. So, same same, add epsom at ratio of 1/8-1/4 tsp per gallon, per the ratio. So continuing with the example; 1/8-1/4 tsp per 1/2 ounce of water. Boiling water will also make this dissolve better.

Keep it closed up. You can refrig it, which is best. Overtime you may see sugar crystals percipitate out if you make it really concentrated. Congradulations! You will have just made rock candy.

LadyL is right on the money though- fuck sweetener products, just make your homemade aerated compost teas.

I will never buy sugar products again, $45-60/gal. Fuck that. It's just too easy to make composted teas.

 

[*mistress*]

this is what is done here:
10 gal tote collected condensation run-off from ac drain.

~5 gals are dehumidified every 24-26 hours. when want to make 5 gals of tea, just add:

1-2 oz (2-4 tbspn) 3% h202
3 oz (6 tbspn) molasses [3 wholesome sweeteners; 3 livestock feed]
1 oz (2 tbspn) millet
1 oz (2 tbspn) corn meal gluten

since drain from ac is on condenser side, exhaust from heat helps stew mix. when 5 gals is reached (by mark in tote), is drained into 5 gal bucket & sits @ room temp until application. 1/2 garden gets only this, other 1/2 gets traditional ferts. traditional ferts are mixed in ac drain water too...

enjoy your garden!

 

[Kanye WeED]

this is what is done here:
10 gal tote collected condensation run-off from ac drain.

~5 gals are dehumidified every 24-26 hours. when want to make 5 gals of tea, just add:

1-2 oz (2-4 tbspn) 3% h202
3 oz (6 tbspn) molasses [3 wholesome sweeteners; 3 livestock feed]
1 oz (2 tbspn) millet
1 oz (2 tbspn) corn meal gluten

since drain from ac is on condenser side, exhaust from heat helps stew mix. when 5 gals is reached (by mark in tote), is drained into 5 gal bucket & sits @ room temp until application. 1/2 garden gets only this, other 1/2 gets traditional ferts. traditional ferts are mixed in ac drain water too...

enjoy your garden!

wow i have no idea what half that stuff is and im sure i could find it but wouldnt it just be cheaper to by the sugar daddy, lol

j/k

im on it and its on my list

hope that stuff aint expensive tho damn

i want something thats kinda the same thickness and ratio to gallon like say sugar daddy is 4 tsp per gallon thats the kind of stuff i wanna make!!

hopefully i can follow citizens recipe for that

but does any one know what id have to do to have the same concentration as the real sugar daddy or is that what u gave me THE REAL sugar daddy recipe

give or take of course

thanks!!!

 

[Kanye WeED]

I previously posted a thread about homemade Sweet/Sugar Daddy. Go read that for more info. If your going to make a bunch and store it, I recommend doing this: concentrate it.

Boil water, add brown sugar/mollasses/ whatever the fuck sugar your into. Add a ratio so that your end up knowing how much water you have for every tsp of sugar. For example- if I use 32 ounces of water, and I add 64 tsp of mollasses, then I know that for every 1/2 ounce of solution I have 1 gallons worth of nutrient solution dilution. So- 15 gallon res would need 7.5 ounces of your concentrated sugar water.

The boiling does two things: kills all life, and allows you to form super saturated solutions on dissolved sugar.

NOW then, Sugar Daddy/Sweet are MORE then just sugar, they contain epsom salts too. So, same same, add epsom at ratio of 1/8-1/4 tsp per gallon, per the ratio. So continuing with the example; 1/8-1/4 tsp per 1/2 ounce of water. Boiling water will also make this dissolve better.

Keep it closed up. You can refrig it, which is best. Overtime you may see sugar crystals percipitate out if you make it really concentrated. Congradulations! You will have just made rock candy.

LadyL is right on the money though- fuck sweetener products, just make your homemade aerated compost teas.

I will never buy sugar products again, $45-60/gal. Fuck that. It's just too easy to make composted teas.

thanks man, sounds like a recipe to follow

no doubt here it will work!!!

 

[*mistress*]

wow i have no idea what half that stuff is and im sure i could find it but wouldnt it just be cheaper to by the sugar daddy, lol

j/k

im on it and its on my list

hope that stuff aint expensive tho damn

i want something thats kinda the same thickness and ratio to gallon like say sugar daddy is 4 tsp per gallon thats the kind of stuff i wanna make!!

hopefully i can follow citizens recipe for that

but does any one know what id have to do to have the same concentration as the real sugar daddy or is that what u gave me THE REAL sugar daddy recipe

give or take of course

thanks!!!

what is the primary objective for adding 'sugar daddy'? isnt this a new product? has it had peer review? what does it supposed to do & how much does it cost; if cost is factor?



1-2 oz (2-4 tbspn) 3% h202
[1 gallon - 6 coins]

3 oz (6 tbspn) molasses [3 wholesome sweeteners; 3 livestock feed]
[wholesome sweeteners - 1 pint - 5 coins; livestock molasses 5 gallons - 25 coins]

1 oz (2 tbspn) millet
[organic millet, uncooked - 24oz - 2 coins]

1 oz (2 tbspn) corn meal gluten
[organic corn gluten meal, 24oz - 2coins]

total: 40 sheets of paper

total amount of tea that can be made, using above ratio:
unknown (lots...)

 

[rrog]

this is what is done here:

1-2 oz (2-4 tbspn) 3% h202

Kills off micro-life. Just to keep in mind

 

[DIRT DIGGLER]

make sure it's unsulphered blackstrap molasses or might run into problems.
I've thought about adding cane sugar to my mix,
I've heard of other grower's using it with great results.

 

[rrog]

I used blackstrap in my last hydro grow. Also added SubCulture. Both worked to keep all bad things away from the res. Remarkable.

In and of itself it's such a small quantity that it's hardly a nutrient. Again I used it as food for the micro-life in the res.

 

[*mistress*]

Kills off micro-life. Just to keep in mind

no, hydrogen peroxide does not kill off *all* microbial life. it actually encourages aerobic activity of beneficial microbes & discourages harmful, anaerobic activity.
in part, from:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=2276637&postcount=22

Aerobic versus Anerobic
While we are discussing enemas and douches, there is another misconception about H202 I need to address. The friendly bacteria in the colon and vagina are aerobic. In other words, they flourish in high oxygen environments and thrive in the presence of oxygen rich H202. On the other hand, most strains of harmful bacteria (and cancer cells) are anaerobic and cannot survive in the presence of oxygen or H202.

make sure it's unsulphered blackstrap molasses or might run into problems.
I've thought about adding cane sugar to my mix,
I've heard of other grower's using it with great results.

livestock/wildlife molasses works fine. sugar beet, citrus, wood, or horticultural molasses will work fine.

vinasse has also been used extensively on crops.

*edit*

enjoy your garden!

 

[rrog]

Hydrogen Peroxide can most definitely kill aerobic and aerobic life. It's caustic in higher concentrations, and added to hydro reservoirs specifically to counter micro-life.

Having said this, both bleach and Peroxide can kill in higher concentrations and be relatively harmless if the concentration is low enough.

I would concede that in slightly higher concentrations the peroxide would kill off aerobic micro last

I just think it's a poor idea to state it "does not kill microbial life." That's only true in low concentrations, and then I wonder what the reason for the addition was in the first place.

Better off with bubblers.

 

[*mistress*]

Hydrogen Peroxide can most definitely kill aerobic and aerobic life. It's caustic in higher concentrations, and added to hydro reservoirs specifically to counter micro-life.

Having said this, both bleach and Peroxide can kill in higher concentrations and be relatively harmless if the concentration is low enough.

I would concede that in slightly higher concentrations the peroxide would kill off aerobic micro last

I just think it's a poor idea to state it "does not kill microbial life." That's only true in low concentrations, and then I wonder what the reason for the addition was in the first place.

Better off with bubblers.

post edited.

not all microbial life is killed by h202., mostly the bad microbial life. there is lot of science on h202 & microbial life (bacteria & fungi, etc.). they survive under varying conditions; ph, temps, etc. some can survive radioactivity & far worse chems than h202 @ 1-2 oz (2-4 tbspn)/gal...

some raw data below. draw own conclusions...

http://www.bionewsonline.com/w/what_is_bioremediation.htm:

Chemosphere, 2004 Dec, 57(10), 1439 - 47
Study on the possibility of hydrogen peroxide pretreatment and plant system to remediate soil pollution; Lin Q et al.; Hydrogen peroxide was widely selected as the chemical oxidant in chemical remediation or as the donor of oxygen in in situ aerobic bioremediation of organic pollutants . In this paper, hydrogen peroxide pretreatment and plant system was done to examine its possibility to remediate the heavy metal contaminated soil or heavy metal-organic combined contaminated soil . Heavy metal contaminated soil was collected from the heavily industrialized area, in Fuyang county, Zhejiang province, China . And heavy metal-organic combined contaminated soil was prepared from the same contaminated soil by spiking 100 microg g(-1) 2,4-dichlorophenol (2,4-DCP) . Results showed that H2O2 could improve the dissipation of 2,4-DCP and enhance the availability of Cu and Zn in soil . The greatly increased DOC (dissolved organic carbon) in the oxidation process was probably the main reason for the greatly increased water soluble Cu in higher pH condition . Water soluble Zn, however, easily rebound to soil components with the time being and had no positive relation with dissolved organic carbon . Planting with ryegrass influenced the behavior of pollutants in soil . It was observed that the dissipation of 2,4-DCP could be enhanced by the presence of plant roots and the availability of Cu and Zn in the planted soil was changed due to the mobilization and rebound mechanisms in the rhizosphere . Co-contamination of 2,4-DCP caused the greater availability of Cu and Zn in H2O2 pretreatment . But with the ryegrass planting, it was easier to rebound to the less available phase in the rhizosphere . Both Cu and Zn concentration in shoots increased with the H2O2 treatment . Therefore our results suggested that H2O2 pretreatment was probably a promising way for promoting the dissipation of persistent organic pollutants and enhancing the solubility of Cu and Zn in soil . A combination of H2O2 pretreatment and suitable plant might be an efficient alternative for remedying heavy metal or heavy metal-organic contaminated soil.

To read some of the material "out there" and hear some of the weekend organo-maniac radio programs, one would think that agriculture has been waging "all out" chemical warfare on soil microbes and that we have all but annihilated them in our soils. This misinformation is being touted by people who owe their very existence and expanding waist lines to modern agriculture. To try to bring some clarity to the subject, I would like to make the public aware of factual, scientific information from an article entitled 'Microbes in soil and sand-based root zones: A few of the basics' written by David Zuberer, a real soil scientist in the Department of Soil and Crop Sciences at Texas A&M University. The entire article is available at: http://www.plantanswers.com/garden_columns.htm as the first column under the November heading and titled: 'The Truth About Microbes.'

​

The major role of the bacteria and fungi is to decompose organic materials in the root zone mix (or soil), including the cells of their recently dead microbial colleagues. It is precisely this turnover of root tissues and microbial cells that releases organically bound N and P as plant available, inorganic ("mineral") forms. This so called mineralization process is the essence of what soil microbial activity is all about. Yes, they do bring about other important processes, some beneficial and some detrimental, but their primary benefit is to decompose organic materials, make more microbial cells and synthesize some soil organic matter (humus) along the way. This is why we recommend using mulching mowers and returning grass clippings and the nutrients in them back to the soil where they belong.
There are countless microbes in soils and literally tons of microbial biomass in normal, healthy turfgrass systems. Grasslands have long been known to support large populations of soil microbes. But what about numbers of microbes in intensively managed, sand based, sports fields? Are the populations somehow compromised? Research suggests that the answer to this question is… No! The scientific data dispels the notion that sports turf is "lacking soil microbes" and that microbial preparations (microbial inoculants, small amounts of carbon sources like molasses or sugar, etc.) are needed to restore them. A healthy stand of grass can literally contain tons of soil microbes! Thus, we know that soils with large active populations do in fact mediate lots of beneficial processes in the soil.
What do soil microbes really do? The fact is that they do all sorts of things in the soil when active, but mostly, they just "hang around" waiting for something to eat! Contrary to what some might think, soils are not seas of organic soup. Rather, they tend to be limiting in supplies of organic carbon to feed microbes and the competition for that carbon is fierce. This is one reason why the rhizosphere, the zone of soil immediately around a plant root, is such a "hot spot" for microbial growth. Roots, as it turns out, give off organic carbon in a variety of forms (sloughed cells, exudates, etc.) that are exploited by the nearby microbes. So, one of the things that microbes do in soil is to reprocess these materials into available forms (i.e., mineralization) and into microbial cells and humus (recalcitrant, stable organic matter). They are also involved in many other processes too numerous to describe here in detail. For example, many soil bacteria can fix atmospheric nitrogen (N2) in order to grow in areas where available soil N is scarce. Note, that I said where N is scarce! They're "smart enough" not to rely on N2 fixation when soil N is sufficient because the process of biological N2 fixation is energetically very "expensive" for them. A common misconception is that one can apply small numbers of nitrogen fixing bacteria to turfgrass, and they will supply nitrogen for the plants. While some N2 fixation might occur, it is unlikely that one could achieve a healthy stand of turfgrass on such minuscule amounts of nitrogen.
What do you need to do for soil microbes? This is probably the question that generates the most confusion among the mislead public as this is an area where there exists a lot of information not based on the science of what true scientists know about soil microbes. It is in answers to this question that we find much misinformation! A common misconception about soil microbes is that using synthetic fertilizers and other management inputs (pesticides, etc.) somehow kills the soil microbial population leading to "dead" or "sterile" soils. The Internet abounds with information (in some cases posted by well meaning individuals and, in others, by persons selling miracle cures) that is just patently false!
While it is true that fertilizers may inflict some harm on microbes directly exposed to granules or to anhydrous ammonia, the overall effect of fertilizer applications is to markedly increase microbial numbers and activity in soil through increased plant growth. We have known this for decades! As I mentioned earlier, the majority of soil microbes require organic carbon to grow and produce new cells. In grass systems, the vast majority of organic matter is produced from decomposing roots and leaves. Fertilization increases the amount of organic substrates available to soil microbes by increasing its source, the grass plants themselves. Thus, rather than producing "dead soil," judicious use of fertilizers invigorates soil microbes by allowing plants to produce more resources for them! Remember though, all management inputs must be used carefully and correctly. Too much of a good thing can produce negative consequences. Excessive fertilizer applications will likely lead to enhanced runoff and leaching, and the undesirable environmental consequences that go with those processes!
So, do you need to add "beneficial microbes" to the soil to make it function properly? That's highly unlikely! Many studies of turfgrasses, whether in sports fields, golf courses or home lawns, have shown that soil microbial populations are not compromised by normal management practices. The best thing that you can do to "manage" the soil microbes under your care is to grow a healthy stand of turf and pay close attention to the condition of the soil or root zone supporting it. Paying attention to the agronomics of plant culture, fertilization, aerification, drainage, etc., will insure that the microbial populations are not being adversely affected!

So the next time you hear a radical, uninformed person make a statement such as, "Chemical fertilizers will eventually destroy even the best soils by killing the beneficial organisms that plants rely on to gather nutrients and moisture. Growers are then forced to pour on larger and larger amounts of expensive petroleum based fertilizers to maintain yields, but the overdoses create unbalanced dead soil." …Start looking for a reliable source of information.

http://www.soilhealth.see.uwa.edu.au/__data/page/59615/SAA_Vol3No3.pdf:

Fungi vs Bacteria: Their Different Roles in Decomposition of Organic Matter Even though a high proportion of both fungi and bacteria are decomposers in the soil, they degrade plant residues differently and have different roles in the recycling of nutrients. This is partly due to their different choice of habitats within the soil and the different types of organic matter they consume.
Fungi are generally much more efficient at assimilating and storing nutrients than bacteria. One reason for this higher carbon (C) storage by fungi lies in the chemical composition of their cell walls. They are composed of polymers of chitin and melanin, making them very resistant to degradation. Bacterial membranes, in comparison, are phospholipids, which are energy-rich. They degrade easily and quickly and function as a food source for a wide range of microorganisms.
The different proportions of C and N (i.e. different C:N ratios) of bacteria and fungi might also play a role in the mineralisation and immobilisation
processes of nutrients in the soil. Due to their structure and C:N ratio between 7:1 and 25:1, fungi need a greater amount of carbon to grow and reproduce and will therefore 'collect' the required amount of carbon available for this from the soil organic matter. Bacteria, however, have a lower C:N ratio (between 5:1 and 7:1) and a higher nitrogen requirement and take more nitrogen from the soil for their own requirements.

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Hydrogen peroxide as a soil amendment for greenhouse nasturtium production
Interpretive Summary
Hydrogen peroxide, H2O2, occurs naturally in animals and plants, and can help protect plants from diseases or signal the plant concerning stress. In addition to its use as a disinfectant for humans and in water purification, hydrogen peroxide is approved for the control of plant diseases. Hydrogen peroxide is used to control diseases on plant leaves, roots, and cuttings. The soil can also be treated with hydrogen peroxide before a plant is started in the soil. There are also common reports that hydrogen peroxide provides additional growth benefits beyond its ability to control diseases and help the plant deal with stress. The objective of this research was to determine the effect of soil applications of hydrogen peroxide solutions on plant growth and flowering. Container grown nasturtium seedlings cv. Scarlet Glean Improved were irrigated with either distilled water, tap water, or hydrogen peroxide solutions. The hydrogen peroxide treatments included adding 1.3, 13, or 26 teaspoons of hydrogen peroxide to a gallon of distilled water. Distilled water was used to be sure there wasn¿t something else in the water that was helping or hurting the plants. Hydrogen peroxide applications did affect the nasturtium leaves, stems, roots, and flowers. Nasturtium leaves and stems, and the total plant (leaves, stems and roots) dry weight were greater when using 1.3 teaspoons/gallon than the 13 teaspoon/gallon. Twenty-six teaspoons/gallon resulted in more root growth than using 1.3 teaspoons/gallon. Flowering was also better when using 1.3 teaspoons/gallon than either 13 or 26 teaspoons/gallon. The results indicate that watering with 1.3 teaspoons of hydrogen peroxide/gallon of distilled water did provide growth and flowering benefits to nasturtiums grown in containers, although the results were not as great as the non-scientific reports would suggest. The difference between our results and what many people generally report may be the benefit of hydrogen peroxide decreasing or eliminating diseases in the soil containers rather than it directly helping the plant grow better.
Technical Abstract:
Hydrogen peroxide, H2O2, is a highly reactive oxidizing agent naturally occurring in plants and animals. Plants produce hydrogen peroxide to destroy either infected plant cells or the pathogens within a plant. Hydrogen peroxide also acts as a stress signal to plants. It is approved for the control of microbial pests, fungi and bacterial that cause plant diseases and it is applied as a foliar spray, as a dip for cuttings and roots, and as a pre-planting soil treatment to prevent or control plant pathogens. There are also anecdotal reports that hydrogen peroxide provides additional growth benefits beyond its actions related to plant infection or plant stress. The objective of this research was to determine the effect of soil applications of hydrogen peroxide solutions on plant growth and flowering. Container grown nasturtium cv. Scarlet Glean Improved seedlings were irrigated with either distilled water, tap water, or hydrogen peroxide solutions. The hydrogen peroxide treatments included 0.005% H2O2 (1X), 0.05% H2O2 (10X), and 0.1% H2O2 (20X), which are equivalent to 1.3, 13, and 26 tsp/gallon of 3% hydrogen peroxide. The foliage and root fresh and dry weights harvested at 22 days after initiating treatment (DAIT) and the fresh weights at 33 DIAT were not significantly different as a result of the hydrogen peroxide concentrations. Hydrogen peroxide concentrations significantly impacted the foliage, root, and total dry weights at 33 DAIT. The 1X concentration of hydrogen peroxide produced significantly greater amounts of nasturtium foliage and total plant dry weights at 33 DAIT compared to the 10X concentration, but it was not significantly different from the distilled and tap water applications. The 20X root dry weights were significantly greater than all other treatments except the 1X hydrogen concentration. The 1X concentration produced significantly greater total number of flowers than either the 10X or 20X concentrations and 64 and 57% greater numbers of flowers than the distilled and tap water treatments. The results indicate that watering nasturtiums at the tested hydrogen peroxide applications rates did provide slight growth and flowering benefits to nasturtiums grown in containers, although the results were not as great as anecdotal reports would suggest. The most likely explanation for the anecdotal reports of dramatic growth stimulus of hydrogen peroxide watering solutions may be a result of hydrogen peroxide decreasing or eliminating diseases in the soil containers rather than it serving as a direct stimulus to the plant.

enjoy your garden!

 

[Kanye WeED]

what is the primary objective for adding 'sugar daddy'? isnt this a new product? has it had peer review? what does it supposed to do & how much does it cost; if cost is factor?



1-2 oz (2-4 tbspn) 3% h202
[1 gallon - 6 coins]

3 oz (6 tbspn) molasses [3 wholesome sweeteners; 3 livestock feed]
[wholesome sweeteners - 1 pint - 5 coins; livestock molasses 5 gallons - 25 coins]

1 oz (2 tbspn) millet
[organic millet, uncooked - 24oz - 2 coins]

1 oz (2 tbspn) corn meal gluten
[organic corn gluten meal, 24oz - 2coins]

total: 40 sheets of paper

total amount of tea that can be made, using above ratio:
unknown (lots...)

lol im taking it that means about 40 bucks not bad

and ill try this this weekend

i hope it has the results of the real thing but with all the listed material im sure it will, sounds kinda fun to make also

to bad its not all organic

ohh and what is h202

is that hydrogen peroxcide

 

[Kanye WeED]

Kills off micro-life. Just to keep in mind

yea sounds like thats the only bad thing about it!!!

 

[Kanye WeED]

no, hydrogen peroxide does not kill off *all* microbial life. it actually encourages aerobic activity of beneficial microbes & discourages harmful, anaerobic activity.
in part, from:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=2276637&postcount=22


livestock/wildlife molasses works fine. sugar beet, citrus, wood, or horticultural molasses will work fine.

vinasse has also been used extensively on crops.

*edit*

enjoy your garden!

hey thats answers my question i asked earlier thanks alot!!

and thanks to all of u!!

 

[rrog]

bubblers...

 

[*mistress*]

lol im taking it that means about 40 bucks not bad

and ill try this this weekend

i hope it has the results of the real thing but with all the listed material im sure it will, sounds kinda fun to make also

to bad its not all organic

ohh and what is h202

is that hydrogen peroxcide

what part is not 'organic'?