Wanna Ask The Old Farts A Question?

[indicapimp]

What is negative air pressure and explain how to achieve it in an 8x8x8 room for example?
Thanks

 

[Rooster449]

OK you old farts LOL Im up there to but new here

OK you old farts LOL Im up there to but new here

Im very new at this and I have some nice plants growing from seed that I dont even no what kind. But they are around 30 days into Veg. and I was thinking of topping them. I have lots of room and am growing under a 150 HPS, Soon to be a 400 HPS and they are just growing like weed's { No pune intended } Im growong in Coco and Canna Nutes.

Thanks for all of the good reading so far.

Rooster449

 

[Wilson!]

from outside in

from outside in

Hey Old Farts!

I'm an old fart too but not at growing. I have a nice MIS that's been in a pot outside for 8 weeks. It's vegged very nicely but not much in the flowering as of yet. I have some room in my inside tent and want to bring her in for flowering. Just wondering what should I do to minimise the chance of transfering hitchhikers into the tent espically the borg.

thanks,

 

[nibirubian]

peroxide flush the soil and foliar wash the entire plant, first spray pyrethians and let sit, then dpray her down with peroxide, bring her in and try to get the microherd back running or whatnot
peace
google fema coffins
nibiru is coming

 

[Green Asian]

Can i have differant strains growing in the same 4x4 flood and drain tray? Do i keep indica and sativas apart.

 

[HempKat]

Hey everyone, I'm in the process of obtaining my med card and been researching extensively on growing. SUPER excited!!

Obviously I still have some questions so here goes.

Plan on using LSTing plants in smart pots w/ Moonshine mix indoor.

What are some good beginner strains that are not as 'popular' as AK-47 and will do well w/ my setup?

Also can I add molasses throughout feedings or will I have to tone it down?

Edit: Forgot to add, strains that are good for pain mgmt, and pest/disease resistant.

You haven't really described your setup so I can't really tell you what would be good in it.

You can add molasses at a rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon, every watering if you like but keep in mind it feeds the micro organisms that may be in your soil, more then it does the plant. So if you're going to be using molasses then you want to be conscious of promoting the microbial life in soil.

Good beginner strains typically aren't good sor pain management per se, they tend to be more average, strains like Big Bud and Northern Lights are popular beginner strains because they yield well and don't require and special care. What makes for good pain management is very subjective and really up to the individual. Generally speaking you're going to want to focus on indica's or indica dominent hybrids for pain management.

 

[HempKat]

What is negative air pressure and explain how to achieve it in an 8x8x8 room for example?
Thanks

Negitive air pressure is simply when you have a passive (no fan) intake (usually low to the ground) and an active (fan) exhaust (usually in the ceiling. The exhaust sucks air out of the room creating a temporary vaccuum where that air was. The force of that vaccuum is the negative air pressure which will pull air in thru the passive intake to replace the air that's been exhausted.

In your 8x8x8 room you would have your passive intake on one of the walls just above or near floor level. You would have the exhaust fan located in the center of the ceiling sucking air out. Since heat rises and with the fan in the ceiling, the exhaust will suck out the hot air rising up to it. The negative pressure this creates will pull in cooler air (since cool air falls) from the passive intake near the floor.

Now what you really need to know isn't what negative air pressure is, as much as you need to know the amount of air you need to move. Ideally you want to change all the air in the room 5 times per minute. So first you need to figure your air volume in cubic feet this is done by multiplying the length of the room by the width of the room by the hieght of the room. If 8 x 8 x 8 is 8'x8'x8' then the volume of air in the room is 8x8x8= 512 cubic feet. So 5 times that is 512 x 5 = 2560 cubic feet. So you would need to move 2560 cubic feet of air every minute. Now fans are rate in cfm's or cubic feet per minute. This means that a fan rated for 500cfms will move 500cubic feet of air every minute. For this room we would need a fan or commbination of fans rated for 2560 CFM that would be pretty big and/or noisey and likely fairly expensive and use alot of electrical power. So it's impractical to cool a larger room by just ventilation/ You only need to move the volume of the air in the room, 5 times per minute when you're cooling solely by ventilation. If you use air conditioning then your exhaust only needs to move enough air to keep co2 levels good. This can be accomplish with one complete room change of air every 5 minutes of in our example 512/5 = 102.4 cubic feet of air per minute. That's fairly low and can be achieved with most typical exhaust fans.

 

[HempKat]

Im very new at this and I have some nice plants growing from seed that I dont even no what kind. But they are around 30 days into Veg. and I was thinking of topping them. I have lots of room and am growing under a 150 HPS, Soon to be a 400 HPS and they are just growing like weed's { No pune intended } Im growong in Coco and Canna Nutes.

Thanks for all of the good reading so far.

Rooster449

Um okay


Didn't sound like there was a question in there so I assume you're just looking for confirmation that it's okay to top them. Which yes it is and probably very necessary since a 150W light is fairly weak forcing you to keep things on the small side.

 

[HempKat]

Hey Old Farts!

I'm an old fart too but not at growing. I have a nice MIS that's been in a pot outside for 8 weeks. It's vegged very nicely but not much in the flowering as of yet. I have some room in my inside tent and want to bring her in for flowering. Just wondering what should I do to minimise the chance of transfering hitchhikers into the tent espically the borg.

thanks,

Well first you need to determine if there are any hitchhikers to worry about in the first place. If not then you're good to go. If you do have pests then it depends on your level of comfortability. Most folks aren't comfortable with using pesticides in flower and so when they do they use things like neem oil as it's natural.

 

[HempKat]

Can i have differant strains growing in the same 4x4 flood and drain tray? Do i keep indica and sativas apart.

If the roots are kept seperate then yes, just keep in mind your sativas will take about a month longer then indicas. Now if the roots entwine then I say no, you'd have to cut the indicas loose from the sativas when you went to harvest and that might jeapordize how well the sativas would do.

 

[Absolut]

Thanks for the help HempKat!

Well I plan on using 1 600W bulb for flowering in a space around 4x4ish to start out.

About the strain, I guess I'll have to do some more research on it to find something that will work. Either way thanks for clarifying it.

 

[HempKat]

Thanks for the help HempKat!

Well I plan on using 1 600W bulb for flowering in a space around 4x4ish to start out.

About the strain, I guess I'll have to do some more research on it to find something that will work. Either way thanks for clarifying it.

In my humble opinion there is no real reasearch one can do accept trial and error. Just like other drugs as a medicine marijuana is not a one size fits all solution. Each of us have our own unique body chemistries and while one strain may work great at relieving pain for one guy it may fail miserably at doing the job for the next guy. Then even within a strain there are adjustments that can be made by either harvesting the buds early (mostly cloudy trichomes) or harvesting then late (mixture of cloudy and a heavy presence of amber trichomes. One of the things in marijuana that makes it good for pain is a certain type of cannabinoid known as CBD which is a natural anti-inflamitory. This is naturally present but can also become the result of THC degradation (what happens when a plant is harvested late). So you could have a strain that is good for pain but can be even better for pain if allowed to go a little longer before harvest.

Often times we put so much energy into researching strains and then purchasing a strain that when we grow it, we want it to be the perfect choice so badly that we can fool ourselves into thinking it's better then it is. Better to just try things with no major expectations up front and then focus on what seems to work best for you.

If pain relief is your main need it's likely going to be an indica which is why I suggested you focus on indicas. If I were you I'd go to the medical users sub forum http://www.icmag.com/ic/forumdisplay.php?f=7 and ask around there who uses marijuana for pain relief. Then try to find who has similar issues and see what works for them. Like I said before what works for one may not work for another but odds are it will if you both have the same needs.

 

[greenheaven]

can you veg indoors for 35 days then flower outside for the rest of the harvest?

 

[PassionForMaryJ]

can you veg indoors for 35 days then flower outside for the rest of the harvest?

Yes, as long as the weather in your area permits you to have enough time to do so.
By that I mean if you have winters where you live, and it gets really cold, then try to ensure you start vegging them early enough so you still have enough time for them to finish up outdoors.

 

[Red Swan]

Remember outdoor flowering started second week of August.... will they live through the weather. Even in Norcal, it's iffy with rain and mold.

 

[HempKat]

can you veg indoors for 35 days then flower outside for the rest of the harvest?

You can veg as little or as much as you want the only thing is if it's from seed and you don't allow it to veg to maturity (6-8 weeks) then you don't know what you have sex wise and it won't grow as well as if it was allowed to fully mature.

Now in general yes you can veg indoors and then put them out to flower. The only thing though is that plants aren't regulated by just the seasons. Marijuana is triggered to flower when the length of the dark period reaches 12 hours or longer. Once that happens though it's still going to need 2-4 months to finish depending on the strain. So like if you put plants outdoors now, they're not going to finish until the end of November at the earliest. Unless you live in a pretty tropical climate that stays pretty warm year round like Florida or Hawaii then the plants probably won't make it to harvest. The best you could probably do is have them outdoors for most of flower but then bring them back indoors to finish off under a light when it got too cold outside.

 

[Rooster449]

Well first you need to determine if there are any hitchhikers to worry about in the first place. If not then you're good to go. If you do have pests then it depends on your level of comfortability. Most folks aren't comfortable with using pesticides in flower and so when they do they use things like neem oil as it's natural.

Thanks for the Advice, I toped them and they are just doing Great. Im going to put them under a 400 for Budding and keep the 150 for Vedging. I injoy reading your posts and look forward to more Q and A with you.

Rooster449

 

[MobbDeep]

my seedlings are about 8-9 days old..under a 400 w hps..the thing is I had ants in there,and they killed 4 of them..the rest that survived,had their cotyledons completely eaten off,and half of there first set of serrated leaves..now I placed them in a tub of water to drown the ants..so will getting their cotyledons and half of the leaves eaten stunt them..or will they just keep on growing there next set of leaves like normal?

 

[cosmiccowboy]

Well let me see, first of all, the plants that lost roots they'll probably be affected some as they likely experienced more shock then the one's whose roots came out fine. Worst case scenario should be that they'll be a little slow at first, they'll need about a week or so to recover the roots they lost. So at first the one's that didn't lose roots will probably do well, while the one's losing roots may appear to do nothing or even maybe get a little worse before getting better. If you have superthrive or something like it, it helps stimulate root growth so it may be worthwhile to give them some.

Okay now that I know they were under fluoros I'm guessing the problem was more of an overwatering issue. Fluoros don't give off much heat so soil under fluoros tends to dry more slowly. Also flouros have less energy for the plants to use so they don't stimulate as much growth. This is fine as far as the plants because they're so small but if you can in the future maybe get them under a hid after just 2 weeks of flouros and by 3 weeks to a month they'll be good and ready for a transplant. The problem with flouros is that because there is less heat the soil doesn't dry out as quick so you often get plants where the top is very dry and the bottom very wet. So it can seem like they need water when they really don't. By the soil staying wet the plants aren't as encouraged to grow to find more water. Less roots results in slow growth. Additionally if the soil stays too wet for too long root rot can develope and this prevents the affected roots from working. Although judging by the looks of the plants I don't think you had root rot. Definately after transplanting you'll be needing to wait probably 5 days before watering again. Especially those that were still wet after 3 days. These aren't 100% reliable but a helpful indicator can be these meters you stick deep in the soil to measure moisture. They're found in most garden supply centers and are usually made by a company called rapidtest I believe. They can be helpful to a new grower in determining when their plants need water.

As for the deficiency thing, in general you don't usually need to give plants ferts before three weeks when using enriched soil. That being said, different strains have different requirements. Some go thru nutes faster. Also the soil as a whole may have good nutrition but the particular soil that ended up in a given pot may have less nutrition contained in it then the soil in other pots so even within the same strain or working with clones some plants may seem to do better then others. Because of these variables three weeks is a guideline but not a firm rule. The better rule to go by is that the moment you see signs of deficiency, start feeding. They will be young plants though and added ferts will be new to them so on the first feeding you start at 1/2 or even 1/4 strength depending on the fert and how the plant is doing. If big and growing vigorously I'd say go half strength, if normal or on the small side I'd go 1/4th strength the first feeding, half the next feeding and full strength by the third feeding. Also when feeding it's best to do it like this fert/water one feeding, fert/water then next, just water on every third watering. The reason to do this is to help keep excess salts from the fertalizer from building up a toxicity level in your soil. Judging by what I saw in the pics I'd give all of them a 1/4 strength feeding the next watering.

On those tablets, I'd say give them a try although I don't think they'll do much for you if you are working with chemical based nutes rather then organic. Basically it's a type of fungus that makes up part of what we call the bioherd. The fungi form a symbiotic relationship with the plant helping to break down the organics into a form the plant can consume more easily. An equally, if not more effective way to provide this benefit to your plants is to capture and use rain water whenever possible rather then tap or well or store bought water. There are micro organisms in that rain water that will also add to or form a bioherd in the soil. If you do this though try to avoid capturing rain water and then letting it sit for more then a day otherwise it will get funky on you. In general terms anything you can do to improve the bioherd is a good natural enhancement you can provide for your plant. Just be careful in buying stuff like that because these shops charge alot for things like that.

I think overall things will get better. The stronger light should give you more vigorous growth and the added heat will dry the soil a bit quicker. No matter what, with the new soil things should improve because in transplanting the roots are now getting more oxygen and nutrients. It can go back to how it was though if the pots aren't allowed to dry out more before the next watering. This can be hard though because you see such a slow down in the frequency of watering. It can be a real challenge to fight the urge to water as frequently as before the transplant. Especially for new growers with little or no past experiences to draw from.

i've never heard that you shouldnt let rainwater set for more than a day to use on crops..please xplain that..i've picked up several tips that have already helped me from this thread..thanks

 

[HempKat]

Thanks for the Advice, I toped them and they are just doing Great. Im going to put them under a 400 for Budding and keep the 150 for Vedging. I injoy reading your posts and look forward to more Q and A with you.

Rooster449

That sounds like a good plan, vegging with the 150 I mean. I'm not planning on going anywhere so I'll be here god willing, when you have need to ask other questions.