cosmiccowboy
Member
you said you didnt like bark..why not ?....and if i get sushi wraps instead of kelp meal ,how can that be measured ?...
Tutorial Organics for Beginners
- Thread starter BurnOne
- Start date
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Huey69
Just a quick question...
I'm using the dry fert recipe #1 with my soil, and it's been great. The plants love it and stay a very healthy green throughout veg. Since i'm outdoor, my plants are flowering, I have a Lavender that is about 3-4 weeks in flower..
I've noticed over the last 5 or so days that the older leaves are quickly yellowing up, not to mention the whole plant is lighter in color.
Is this just the natural life cycle of the plant? Or do I need to hit it with some fish emulsion or something similar?
I'm using the dry fert recipe #1 with my soil, and it's been great. The plants love it and stay a very healthy green throughout veg. Since i'm outdoor, my plants are flowering, I have a Lavender that is about 3-4 weeks in flower..
I've noticed over the last 5 or so days that the older leaves are quickly yellowing up, not to mention the whole plant is lighter in color.
Is this just the natural life cycle of the plant? Or do I need to hit it with some fish emulsion or something similar?
I'm also using the LC's mix with dry fert recipe #1 (I water with occasional Liquid Karma and molasses). Based on your description and the picture you posted, I would say it's just the normal process. I can't even see yellowing in the picture. It looks good to me.
It's possible that the soil is getting depleted quicker than it should, because that's a huge plant. How big is the pot?
It's possible that the soil is getting depleted quicker than it should, because that's a huge plant. How big is the pot?
Hi Huey, I think KJ is on the right track, yer soil nutes are about played out. I'd give em somethin high in P but still alil N along with it. It would be best if it was somethin the plant could take up right away like a guano / worm cast tea with a lil fish emulsion, or maybe even a good bottled nutes, like Age old organic or Pure blend for soil etc....
She looks like she's going to yeild nice! I'd get right on the nute thing to keep that flowering vigor rolling. Btw, that was a good call on reading yer plants, if more folks would do this there would be a lot less posting in the infirmary. Good luck! BC
I had a 50lb bag of hydroton from when I tried to go hydro, didn't like hydro, and use the hydroton now instead of perlite. The clay balls are bigger and I think the roots are liking it better due to more room to reach down and more air available.
(moonshine mix using hydroton)
sednal
Active member
Yall are the pros, wondering if we could get anyones input on our problem. Firstime organic indoor growers, everything else is outlined in the post along with pics. Having some problems with how to start off neuting.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=134610
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=134610
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mrred
how do i add nirtogen?, a few plants have a slight leaf curl that stopped, but are still lime green in color, i added some bone meal to it but a small rust spot came up a day later(im using "cheap" coir from canada, lc#1 i think they should be about 2 weeks now and stopped their initial stretch.
im worried about putting the stem under soil because of diseases, this is true with trees, does this apply to mj too?
my mix, this right?
15 cups coir
9 cups perlite
6 cups wormcastings
29ml dolomite lime
29ml blood meal
58ml bone meal
29ml kelp
im worried about putting the stem under soil because of diseases, this is true with trees, does this apply to mj too?
my mix, this right?
15 cups coir
9 cups perlite
6 cups wormcastings
29ml dolomite lime
29ml blood meal
58ml bone meal
29ml kelp
Hey whats up Burnone! I've got a question for you. I just started using rapid rooter plugs for my clones. When they are rooted in the plugs I transplant to 16 oz. beer cups. Should I fill the beer cups with just LC's #1 mix alone, or should I transplant them into LC's #1 mixed with Recipe #1 (blood, bone, kelp, greensand)? Thanks man
Seedlings should never go into the LC's mix that's been dry ferted. They should go into the LC's mix alone until they need feeding, which is variable. I burned my first one's by putting the seedlings right into the ferted mix. This last grow they went into the un-ferted mix first and then were transplanted, which made all the difference in the world.
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mrred
he said clones tho, i would say yea, put them in the lc#1 and recipe #1 once rooted, thee rapid rooted might alreay have more nutes than lc#1 anyways
Good stuff again KJ! although Louie was talking about clones, the same thing still applies. You don't really have to, but I bet they'd really dig some worm cast tea when you transplant em.
Mrred, there should be pleny of N in that mix. Also, don't worry about burying the stems, mj plants are like mater plants, they'll grow roots all along those buried stems. BC
Mrred, there should be pleny of N in that mix. Also, don't worry about burying the stems, mj plants are like mater plants, they'll grow roots all along those buried stems. BC
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Huey69
If I took a pic today, you would notice for sure. I took that pic on Monday when I started to notice it. The older leaves are rapidly turning yellow, like one day there green and the next day yellow.
The pot is 20 gal.
I did go ahead and give it not a full dose, but like 3/4 a dose of fish emulsion. This started to happen to two other plants I had that flowered earlier, so I wanted to check in on this on because I don't want the yield to get lowered due to the plant struggling for food.
Thanks for the help guys
Huey, you really should be using nutes that are more balanced, with the ratio being higher in P and K since this is what the plant is using the most of right now. Fish emulsion is high in N. The plant still needs N, but in lower doses now and in conjunction with higher amounts of P* (esp) and K. Large amounts of N only in flower tends to retard budding.
Look into Age Old Organic Bloom or Pure Blend Pro for soil if you want a one step bottle nute solution. They are both well balanced flowering ferts.
Louie, imo ferted mix is going to be purty hot for a small newly rooted clone. The casting/compost in the mix alone should be enough to get you through the cup stage. That's just my opinion and the way I would do it. BC
Look into Age Old Organic Bloom or Pure Blend Pro for soil if you want a one step bottle nute solution. They are both well balanced flowering ferts.
Louie, imo ferted mix is going to be purty hot for a small newly rooted clone. The casting/compost in the mix alone should be enough to get you through the cup stage. That's just my opinion and the way I would do it. BC
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Huey69
I understand that they need P and K, however, if the dryfert recipe works as it's supposed to, then I shouldn't need to be feeding them at all. All I should need to do is water until harvest, at least per Burnone's experience.
If yuv vegged in that same pot and are now 3-4 weeks into flower, chances are the amendments have been used up. The sudden shift in the plants color and quickly yellowing leaves are tell tale signs of this. When a plant flowers it demands -alot- more nutes and water ( than in veg ), esp under the sun. Everything speeds up in flower! This is a good reason to repot right before they do flower.
I've been at this for years and wouldn't steer you wrong. BC
I've been at this for years and wouldn't steer you wrong. BC
3rdEyeWonder
Member
Hey y'all 
, quick questions...I think.
I'm using LC's mix #1(was interesting to read Microbe's site and find out the premier spaghnum peat moss has beneficial microbes waiting to be activated...if I remember correctly
) and feeding with the fish recipe w the occasional guano tea...Recently reading up on some opposing opinions regarding the effectiveness of these poop teas, I now wish to top dress w/ some high P guano and something with high K(Maxicrop Powdered Kelp Extract or Nep Harvest's kelp meal?)....How much should I be applying generally? And which of the kelp products would you recommend for the K? I'm hitting the 3rd week of flower and was looking to give'em a little boost as well as provide whatever they'd need until harvest(60-70 day strain, relatively light feeders).
, quick questions...I think.I'm using LC's mix #1(was interesting to read Microbe's site and find out the premier spaghnum peat moss has beneficial microbes waiting to be activated...if I remember correctly
) and feeding with the fish recipe w the occasional guano tea...Recently reading up on some opposing opinions regarding the effectiveness of these poop teas, I now wish to top dress w/ some high P guano and something with high K(Maxicrop Powdered Kelp Extract or Nep Harvest's kelp meal?)....How much should I be applying generally? And which of the kelp products would you recommend for the K? I'm hitting the 3rd week of flower and was looking to give'em a little boost as well as provide whatever they'd need until harvest(60-70 day strain, relatively light feeders).I scratch kelp meal into the surface, and it seems to do the job, or at least, it doesn't hurt anything.
Kelp is very low in cellulose, so it doesn't require much N from the surrounding soil to break down. I'd say the meal is more handy than the extract, and you can mix it in when you mix up your soil, and forget about it.
For P, I don't do anything special except I do use mycorrhizae at transplanting. Not sure if it's true, but I've read on this board from knowledgeable people that excess P can inhibit the fungus, which basically means you aren't helping but you are wasting money. As you step in the fungus steps down. Bone meal at the start is plenty. I've grown outdoors with great yields using just dry nutes at the start and no mycorrhizae applied. They may have occurred naturally though. Never checked.
LC's mix with the dry nutes is fine for clones, by the way. I root in 50/50 perlite and vermiculite, then move it straight to the mix once the roots hold the medium together. Maybe the cloning mix gives it a little buffer, not sure. It's a gentle mix anyway.
Kelp is very low in cellulose, so it doesn't require much N from the surrounding soil to break down. I'd say the meal is more handy than the extract, and you can mix it in when you mix up your soil, and forget about it.
For P, I don't do anything special except I do use mycorrhizae at transplanting. Not sure if it's true, but I've read on this board from knowledgeable people that excess P can inhibit the fungus, which basically means you aren't helping but you are wasting money. As you step in the fungus steps down. Bone meal at the start is plenty. I've grown outdoors with great yields using just dry nutes at the start and no mycorrhizae applied. They may have occurred naturally though. Never checked.
LC's mix with the dry nutes is fine for clones, by the way. I root in 50/50 perlite and vermiculite, then move it straight to the mix once the roots hold the medium together. Maybe the cloning mix gives it a little buffer, not sure. It's a gentle mix anyway.
This is precisely what I've been able to do, other than using a bit of LK and molasses occasionally. Both of my grows so far have used the LC's mix with dry fert recipe #1 and I've not had to supplemental feed them at all during the entire grow cycle.
cosmiccowboy
Member
is it a bad idea to use lc's mix#1 immediately after mixin?
